I am attempting my first full restoration (unpinning/pinning), and I ran into a snag. The hole in the blade is bigger than the brass rods I purchased as a kit. I know that I could JB Weld the hole, and redrill it, but I seem to remember seeing some kind of brass tubes/bushings that can be utilized for that, which I would prefer over filling the hole with epoxy. For the life of me, I can't remember where I've seen these "pipes". Some guidance, would be much appreciated.
I need some help with restoration.
- Thread starter Wolfgang von Kessler
- Start date
You can probably ignore it. Remember the original razor manufacturer ignored it and just ran the pin through the large hole. I have used a small carbide burr to open the hole and then placed a brass bushing in it as well. No reason to do that except for my own OCD, but it is my OCD and sometimes I like to exercise it.
- Thread starter
- #3
I was told by my wife that I need medical/professional help regarding my OCD/anal retentiveness (jokingly).
Scales moving up/down WILL bother me. Besides, original scales on the blade were JUNK, so I'm rescaling it (original scales were not floppy).
Right there with you at times. Besides being OCD I am also moody. The steel is likely too hard to be drilled, but a small carbide burr will make quick work of it and then you can put a brass bushing in the hole. Alternatively carbide drill bits are also available, but the little burrs are amazingly cheap and the drill bits are not.
Honestly, just fill it with epoxy.
Why bother to order a probably not perfectly fitting tube which you will then fit into place with epoxy anyway?
The guide you are looking for, although it should be pretty obvious of what to do:
Google: Sleeving an oversized pivot
Why bother to order a probably not perfectly fitting tube which you will then fit into place with epoxy anyway?
The guide you are looking for, although it should be pretty obvious of what to do:
Google: Sleeving an oversized pivot
- Thread starter
- #6
Yeah, I guess I'll have to do that. In my ignorance, I was thinking that there is a a brass tube out there that has the OD same as my pivot hole, and the ID same as the pin. No such thing. Epoxy will do it. Since this razor will not be my "daily driver", I think it will be OK. Thank you.
It doesn't need to be done, but in the past I have filled the hole with epoxy and redrilled. Brass tube is only an option if the hole is perfectly round, and it is usually not.
- Thread starter
- #8
That info helps a lot (not wanting to open a different can of worms). Epoxy it is. Thank you.
I have unpinned and repined 100s of razors, most old ones have some play, unless it is really excessive, do not worry about it.
I would only caution if you're making scales, make sure you have wedge clearance while pushing the blade forward
I would only caution if you're making scales, make sure you have wedge clearance while pushing the blade forward
- Thread starter
- #10
I am creating a "marriage" between scales I like, and the blade that came without usable scales. I will make sure there is sufficient clearance to the wedge. Thank you.
Gotta agree with @Doc226. Filing and drilling the pivot hole is not needed except in the most extreme cases. I've not had such a case to date.
Peening to an appropriate tension will keep the blade from sliding. And besides, we hold the razor by the tang, so even sightly shifting scales would not introduce any instability to the grip.
And as a final note, I personally think that filling/sleeving takes you out of the realm of "restoration" and into the quagmire of "modification"...
Peening to an appropriate tension will keep the blade from sliding. And besides, we hold the razor by the tang, so even sightly shifting scales would not introduce any instability to the grip.
And as a final note, I personally think that filling/sleeving takes you out of the realm of "restoration" and into the quagmire of "modification"...
For a razor that had the same problem I used soda can. Cut a small piece of a can and roll it outside your tube and then press it in the hole. Dremel it and your are good to go.
Plus it is aluminum so it won’t get rusty.
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Plus it is aluminum so it won’t get rusty.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I have nestled two brass tubes to fill in the Hart razor huge hole to covert to pins instead of the torx screws
- Thread starter
- #14
I have nestled two brass tubes to fill in the Hart razor huge hole to covert to pins instead of the torx screws
This brass tube was what I was thinking originally. However,....since I live in the middle of nowhere (about 20 miles from there!), good luck in finding the tube that would fit. This Coke can idea sounds intriguing (easy to work with). I was also thinking about plastic (those little "straws" that they give you to stir coffee with). Didn't go to town in over a week, but I might go tomorrow, take the blade with me (and a micrometer), and see what I can find. If I can't find anything that would work, I can always do epoxy, or forget about it. I have 12 razors now, and this particular one might be used once a month (I'll be dead before it shows any wear after restoration).
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