How To Use a Pasted Balsa Strop

[Slash McCoy]

You said both sides. I’m not clear on this. I thought pull stroke means you lightly cut straight into the wood

Oh no. Don't cut into your balsa! You lay the razor against the balsa as if you were going to stroke it along the balsa but instead you pull it off sideways. Then flip it and do the other side. You can also do this on stones or film if you think it is needed. Don't overdo it though. I don't know for sure but I suspect it could round the apex if done too much.

 

[kohalajohn]

Got it

 

[rbscebu]

Just got your edification, steel is not crystalline in nature, it is granular. The size of these grains and the bonding between the grains is dependent on the chemical composition of the steel and the heat treatment that it undergoes.

The granular size of the steel in most SRs is in the order of units of microns. Once you get down to stropping on pasted balsa wood with submicron diamond particles, you are not so much working on the grains in the steel but rather the molecules within the grain.

 

[Guitar10]

Having gone into some detail when asked or prompted in many threads, I thought I should comprehensively lay out the method in a separate thread, for reference.

Thing 1. The Balsa Strop.

Buy 3" wide balsa. Best to buy a 36" length. It is cheaper. Hobby Hut, Hobby Lobby, and other brick and mortars carries it. Or purchase online, at 3x the cost. 1/2" thick works well. Cut it into 3 12" pieces. For best results, which I believe are the only results worth pursuing, glue the balsa to a heavy piece of glass, or marble tile cut to size. Not wood. Not plastic. The idea is to bond the balsa to a dimensionally stable substrate, to fight the tendency of the balsa to warp.

The balsa must be lapped, for best results, which as I already pointed out, are the only type of results worth pursuing. Even if it looks flat and smooth. try 220 or 320 grit sandpaper. Or 400. Whatevah. Or a progression. Spray the back side of the sandpaper with Loctite or 3M spray adhesive. Just a faint dusting of the adhesive works great. Carefully stick the sandpaper to a polished granite countertop or a large heavy piece of glass. The flatter, the better. Eyeball flat is not good enough. Make sure the sandpaper goes on smooth and tight with no bubbles or wrinkles. This is extremely important. Now place the balsa face down on the sandpaper and carefully rub rub rub. When you see you have created a whole new surface, obviously the balsa is now as flat as the sandpaper. So, the flatter, the better.

Thing 2. The Diamond Paste.

I have not experimented much yet with finer grits than .1u, so that is the finest I can authoritively comment on. You need .1u, and .25u, and .5u. If you made 3 pieces, that works out well. I get mine from www.tedpella.com but there are a lot of vendors. It is sold in as high as 50% diamond but there is no need to go over 10%. The reason is, less is more. You want the diamond crystals embedded into the balsa, not rolling and scooting around on top of it. You can also get 1u and 3u, both of which are handy for polishing even if you dont use them on balsa much or at all.

Thing 3. Putting it all together.

It only takes a little bit. If you think you got enough, then you probably have about 3x too much. You MUST NOT have a coating on the balsa. You want a very small amount, rubbed in to the balsa. About 1/3 of a pinto bean worth or a bit less. Spread it around and rub it in good. You can thin it down with acetone or something if you like, for better distribution. Now, this is very important. It doesn't matter if you contaminate a coarse grit with a finer one. But you must NEVER let a coarser grit contaminate a finer one. the way it works is each stage makes scratches in the steel, the size of which is determined by the grit size. Each grit must totally eliminate the coarser scratches of the previous grit, replacing it with its own finer scratches. Even a few crystals of a coarser grit basically ruin your results from the finer grit. So, always clean your hands thoroughly when going from grit to grit. Applying diamond to the balsa, start with the finer grit first. Label it by writing the grit size on the ends of the balsa. Do the .1u balsa, then the .25u balsa, then the .5u balsa, etc. Now the proper sign is μ which stands for micron, but we usually use "u" because it is right there on the keyboard.

Thing 4. Using it.

You COULD just use the balsa to touch up an edge that is failing, but I prefer to hit it after every shave, so I never experience a dull or dulling edge. At least, not often. I go 2 or 3 dozen laps on the .25u, then a like number on the .1u. Fairly light pressure. Edge trailing. Use a slight x stroke even though the balsa is wider than the razor's edge. Always wipe the blade VERY WELL after stropping on a pasted balsa or between grits. You MUST NOT contaminate the finer balsa with coarser diamond, or get any diamond on your regular leather hanging strop. You will NOT GET BEST RESULTS if that happens. And best results are the only results worth pursuing. Sometimes I skip the .25u and just go 4 dozen laps on the .1u. I finish by laying the blade on the balsa and drawing it straight across and off the balsa. This helps to remove any fin edge. Occasionally it will seem like my edge is starting to go north on me, and that is when I go with the .5u or 1u. I strop until I am satisfied with the way the razor treetops forearm hair, then I hit my finer grits as usual.

Thing 5. Improving it.

After final stropping on diamond/balsa, I like to give my razor a special treat. I keep a piece of 1/16" thick, 3"wide balsa unpasted. I rest one end on a bench or counter or table, and hold the other end in my left hand. I strop on this very flexible unpasted balsa sheet, letting it sag slightly, about like a hanging strop drawn moderately tight. This seems to remove any vestiges of fin edge much better than linen. I am still experimenting with this technique but it is definitely an improvement.

Thing 5. Maintaining it.

After a few weeks, you may find that the balsa needs a refresh of diamond. You could just add a bit more, about half of what you used when you first pasted the balsa, but for BEST POSSIBLE results, which are the only kind of results worth pursuing, go ahead and re-lap the balsa. Sure, you got it flat, but it isn't flat anymore. Flatter is better.

Thing 6.. Other abrasives.

I have been asked again and again if CrOx (Chromium Oxide) won't work. Yes, it does work. I just don't believe it works as well as diamond. First of all there is basically only one grade of CrOx. Call it .5u, or call it .3u. The particle variation is so wide that it is practically the same whichever way you call it. If you use CrOx and you want to go finer, get some FeOx, or Iron Oxide, which runs around .1u grit size. Yes, they are cheaper than diamond. But you use so little, the cost is irrelevant. I strongly recommend going with diamond. Best possible results, right? You might also take a look at CBN, Cubic Nitride Boron or something like that. The new thing.

IN CLOSING, I just want to say that this works. I basically never have to re-hone a razor that I have maintained with this method. YMMV, I am sure, but there is no reason not to try it my way. Hardly any steel is lost even in daily use. 1u is approximately equivelant to a 12k Naniwa Superstone. .1u of course is 10x finer. Some naysayers will state that this will surely cause a harsh edge. I use this method and the only kind of edges I get are sh-sh-sh-sh-SHARRRRRRRPPPPPPPP ones. Give it a go, and if you do it right you will love it.

Just a question, you would be interseted to sell all that like a kit! If so let me know! You can PM me Gino

 

[Slash McCoy]

Just a question, you would be interseted to sell all that like a kit! If so let me know! You can PM me Gino

LOL not really. It would take me at least 2 or 3 hours to shop and pack and ship. You wouldn't want to pay me what I think my time is worth, I am sure.

 

[Guitar10]

LOL not really. It would take me at least 2 or 3 hours to shop and pack and ship. You wouldn't want to pay me what I think my time is worth, I am sure.

Ok thanks anyway

 

[rbscebu]

When balsa stropping, I end-for-end each of my balsa strops about halfway through. My theory is that the diamond particles are probably not that evenly distributed over the strip so end-for-ending kind of evens things out for the edge.

 

[Slash McCoy]

When balsa stropping, I end-for-end each of my balsa strops about halfway through. My theory is that the diamond particles are probably not that evenly distributed over the strip so end-for-ending kind of evens things out for the edge.

I do, too. Mostly because it distributes the effect of any tiny surface irregularities and distributes the very slight wear across the balsa.

 

[TheLegalRazor]

Would this Method work as well with pasted cotton strops instead of balsa?

 

[rbscebu]

Would this Method work as well with pasted cotton strops instead of balsa?

In my opinion, no. If you like, try first with balsa. Get that perfected and then try your pasted cotton.

I think you will then have your answer.

The reason I think not is because a cotton strop is not as flat as the basla and secondly, the cotton is much more open and softer than balsa and thus will not support those sub-micron pieces of diamond as well.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Would this Method work as well with pasted cotton strops instead of balsa?

IMHO, no.

You are best off using The Method exactly as laid out in the thread. Nobody who has tried The Method and followed it exactly, failed to get a very very sharp edge at least by the second attempt. It is a sure thing. Don't give up a sure thing to try a very unsure thing. Experiment later, after you see how The Method delivers superior results early on. Otherwise you will end up getting so-so results and think you got it nailed because you can sorta shave with the razor, when actually you are far from having optimum sharpness AND comfort in your shave.

 

[Tester28]

Been using the 0.1 micron edge with good results but need to ask:

The edge grabs hair and treetops effortlessly at 1/8"

Yet if I am shaving with a 3 day prickly stubble it starts to catch around the
chin area...the hair growth there is very stubborn and rough...yet Ive
seen guys take a straight to a thick beard and slice it all off like it was nothing.

I wonder why Im experiencing this. Do I need a slicker more watery lather?
Any thoughts/advice welcome.

 

[roms]

Just put together my set of hones, excited to try them out this weekend and see how sharp I can get my edges.

For anyone in CONUS looking for supplies here's what I used:
12" x 12" x 3/4" Acrylic plate from Freckle Face - $27 shipped
1" x 3" x 1/4" Balsa from Bill and Walt's Hobby Shop -$13 shipped (can't believe none of my local hardware stores or hobby shops had this, but it is what it is)
Diamond pastes from Ted Pella - $31 shipped
3M Spray Adhesive #90 from local hardware store - ballpark $10, don't remember exactly


Overall a pretty simple build and fun project. Cut the plate and balsa plank down to size, then glued them together. Lapped with 400 grit sand paper glued to a floor tile. The balsa is so soft, I accidentally made some impressions when I was applying pressure to set the adhesive. Nothing a little extra time on the sandpaper couldn't handle, but I forgot how careful you have to be with this stuff. I figured $40 for three hones isn't too bad when they're going for $25 each pre-constructed at Maggard.

I tried to be very sparing in applying compound to the wood, so I'm not sure if I have enough on there (that probably means I have just enough to too much), but I'll post an update once I've had a chance to run some blades over it.

Planning on running a tugging E.A. Berg wedge across a 12k Naniwa, then taking it through the three balsa progression. I've also got a Satinedge that was a wonderful shaver until I noticed a tiny chip by the tip. I'll try to hone that out (hopefully won't have to drop lower than 8k) then bring the sharpness back with the balsas.

 

[macintoshBR]

Has anyone tried to stick two pieces of balsa to the same acrylic slab, one on top one on the bottom for a super compact double-sided diamond strop that is also more environmentally friendly?

 

[steveclarkus]

Has anyone tried to stick two pieces of balsa to the same acrylic slab, one on top one on the bottom for a super compact double-sided diamond strop that is also more environmentally friendly?

One side could easily contaminate the other. Doesn’t seem like a practical idea to me. Of course, I could be wrong but then, I’m quite used to it.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Has anyone tried to stick two pieces of balsa to the same acrylic slab, one on top one on the bottom for a super compact double-sided diamond strop that is also more environmentally friendly?

I tried it. Meh. Too hard to keep both sides clean and protected.

For a compact setup, here is my idea. Haven't done it cause don't need it.

1/16" balsa glued to 1/4" acrylic or glass base, for each grit desired. Lapped and pasted appropriately.
3/4" thick acrylic cut about 1/4" oversize, routered out 1/8" deep or so, to serve as a holder for the balsa and base.
A fitted case to keep everything safe, clean, and uncontaminated.

The warping force of the thin balsa should not be enough to flex the 1/4" acrylic, though it probably could only take one or at most two re-laps. The holder would have the top surface routered out so that the 1/4" base fits securely in the recess. The 1/4" of extra width and length would allow a 1/8" rim all around. Could go with 1" instead of 3/4" thick, for better fingertip clearance. And since you would be using a router on the top, the bottom could be routered out to reduce weight in the hand even more.

 

[macintoshBR]

So... I am already a lapping film convert (it has changed my Straight razor shaving life, really!) and I've decided I want to try the diamond Balsa way of life (man why can't we just settle with what we've already got???).

To be honest, I am already extremely satisfied with my shaves - even my Dovo Best (Worst) Quality razor shaves my face as well as my $400 Filarmonoca 14 EPBD. The 3 laps on CrOx I give after shave keeps my blades in pretty good condition despite the multi-hundred dollar Coticules (last count was 6 pieces - maybe 7?) I have in my wardrobe, but what's $25 worth of diamond pastes and balsa/acrylic sheets for a (relatively) young working man?

Anyway, living this side of the globe is not as easy as the US for ordering purposes (much better for many other things, though... food the first thing that comes to mind...) so I have en-route from Hong-Kong (hopefully corona virus-free) a tub of 0.5um diamond paste bought from eBay. I already have in-house a slab of 250 x 90 x 20 mm (why can't Americans simply adopt the metric system, anyway????) acrylic plus three 250 x 100 x 15mm balsa sheets (my local vendor requires a 5-pack order for 1/4" balsa so I went for the thicker one - come on, who needs 5-meter worth of balsa wood?)

Let's see what's the fuss all about. As usual, the Dovo Best (Worst) Quality will be the guinea pig... If the diamond paste makes it through customs, I will order 0.25 and 0.1um (hey that's the beauty of free shipping!)... Otherwise I will have to order directly in the US and who knows when I might receive it - most likely by Christmas when I visit family in the adjacent hemisphere

 

[johnb65]

I have had a lot of diamond pastes from AliExpress to the UK with no trouble from customs so far.

 

[Slash McCoy]

(why can't Americans simply adopt the metric system, anyway????)

Why do you even need to ask? Inches, feet, fathoms, are more practical units of measurement that can be used even without artificial measuring devices such as rulers or yardsticks or tape measures. Mash your thumb on a flat surface. the width will be an inch. More or less, close enough. You can calibrate your biological inch by regulating the pressure. Grab a rope in one hand. Run it loosely through the other. Stretch your arms wide. One fathom. 6 feet. Again, you can calibrate your personal fathom by how you hold the rope. Then there are feet. Kinda obvious. A yard... a long stride. Do you need instruments to lay out a half inch? No. Eyeball half of an inch. Half of that is a quarter. Half of that is an eighth. Half of that, a sixteenth. Half of a sixteenth, a 32nd, and so forth. 25/32 is obviously a 32nd more than 24/32nd which is 3/4, so 3/4 and half of a half of a half of what's left of an inch is 25/32 and you can do that with a pencil and paper and no measuring tool except your thumb, which most of us own a pair of, and carry them along with us 24/7. These units of measurement were invented thousands of years ago, along with the still practical but archaic cubit of Biblical reference. Masons and carpenters used them to construct epic works that still stand today, like the Pyramids, for example. Jesus was a carpenter. I am sure he measured a lot of things in handspans and inches. If inches were good enough for Jesus, then hey, good enough for me. Try to come up with similar tricks with metric. There aren't any. Metric is handy for chemists and nuclear physicists. And people who can't do math in their heads, or don't have feet or thumbs or who have tiny short arms and legs.

Some misguided legislators once passed a law requiring all whiskey and other spirits meant for human consumption to be sold in metric units. Now the bottles are imprinted with foreign gobbledygook like "750ml" or "500ml" or other similar nonsense. The joke is on them. We go to the grocery store and still ask for a half gallon of Evan Williams and we get it. Or close to it. Nobody says, "Gimme 750ml of Sazerac Rye". They ask for a Fifth, and the clerk sells the bottle that is well, close enough. A pint. A quart. The important things in life deserve to be respected with traditional nomenclature and The People know this.

The noble Inch. Beautiful in its simplicity, utility, and relevance to real life and the real world around us.

The millimeter. Invented by a nation that eats snails and goose liver and has not had a major military victory since, oh, 1066 AD I think.

 

[johnb65]

I seem to remember back to the Imperial System that there were a number of rods in a chain or perchs in a pole and it was something to do with the length of the stick that was used to beat your team of oxen. It was all a bewilderment and anyway I like French cuisine and wine and women if I wasn't too old to care now