How To Use a Pasted Balsa Strop

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Hi Jim

I know it seems confusing and even a little contradictory, but the observation that one given shaver had great results on basswood doesn't in the least diminish the basic principal of how balsa strops are -intended- to function.

Lots of folks shave off Arkansas stones, coticules, jnats, etc. There is a thread started recently about one gentleman shaving off a naniwa 8K stone. @SlashMcCoy has observed that 0.25 micron seems to be a real rough point in the progression, and that both 0.5 micron and 0.1 micron seem smoother finish points. None of these are a problem, and how each person likes to shave that gets them the results they are after is up to them. However, I would venture to guess that if you took an arkie shaver and gave him a 0.1 method blade, he would find it uncomfortable until he adapted his technique to the edge.

Does that make Arkansas stones an inferior finish medium? No, just different.

However, if you were to take two Arkansas stones, one lapped flat with a 600 grit diamond plate, the other left factory "flat ish", one of them will clearly be a superior tool for razor honing, reliably and consistently producing the edge the Arkansas stone shaver is after. The other certainly -could- be used to produce a finished edge, and it is entirely within the realm of probability that some folks could get a great shave off a carefully honed edge using that stone.

Good points well made.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Good points well made.

Also keep in mind that there is likely a big difference between the best shave you have ever had, and the best shave you ever will have or could have. Every new best shave is wonderful and perfect, without a higher point of reference. Any open grained wood will work. Balsa will work better, and a progression ending at .1u diamond will be better than one ending at .25u, all other things equal. Stopping halfway there is better than not starting at all. Going the distance is better, for hardly any additional work or expense.

 

[RayClem]

There are a lot of different substrates that can be used for a pasted strop: balsa, basswood/linden, leather of various types, and linen, canvas, sail cloth, denim, microfiber fabrics. There are also a lot of different pastes and sprays that can be used: CrOx, diamond, Cubic Boron Nitride, Cerium Oxide, etc. Many of the abrasive particles can come in different particle sizes. I suggest that the "ideal" substrate to use depends upon the type and particle size of the abrasive being used.

Diamond crystals are tetrahedrons with sharp points that cut quickly. Diamond abrasive benefits from being embedded in the pores of soft balsa wood to make it less aggressive. Also, because diamond is so aggressive, the common caution is to use it sparingly.

CBN has a cubic crystalline structure without the sharp points of diamond. Thus, it is less aggressive than diamond. I find that CBN pastes work quite well on basswood. CBN is less aggressive, so I tend to use a heavier coverage.

Balsa, basswood, tooling leather, and various fabrics are relatively inexpensive. I suggest you try various combinations to see which achieve the results you are looking for. As Slash McCoy indicates, diamond sprays on balsa have been commonly used for a long time. If that works for you, great, but you might find another combination that works better for you. As with everything else in wet shaving, no one way is right for everyone. It all depends on your beard, your face and your preferences. Part of the fun of wet shaving is exploring various options to learn what works for you.

 

[Dzaw]

That last point is sometimes difficult to remember. Thank you for reminding us (me especially) that both there are so many variables in play that it is impossible to always predict the “best” solution, and also that some of the fun in the challenge is because of that factor.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

There are a lot of different substrates that can be used for a pasted strop: balsa, basswood/linden, leather of various types, and linen, canvas, sail cloth, denim, microfiber fabrics. There are also a lot of different pastes and sprays that can be used: CrOx, diamond, Cubic Boron Nitride, Cerium Oxide, etc. Many of the abrasive particles can come in different particle sizes. I suggest that the "ideal" substrate to use depends upon the type and particle size of the abrasive being used.

Diamond crystals are tetrahedrons with sharp points that cut quickly. Diamond abrasive benefits from being embedded in the pores of soft balsa wood to make it less aggressive. Also, because diamond is so aggressive, the common caution is to use it sparingly.

CBN has a cubic crystalline structure without the sharp points of diamond. Thus, it is less aggressive than diamond. I find that CBN pastes work quite well on basswood. CBN is less aggressive, so I tend to use a heavier coverage.

Balsa, basswood, tooling leather, and various fabrics are relatively inexpensive. I suggest you try various combinations to see which achieve the results you are looking for. As Slash McCoy indicates, diamond sprays on balsa have been commonly used for a long time. If that works for you, great, but you might find another combination that works better for you. As with everything else in wet shaving, no one way is right for everyone. It all depends on your beard, your face and your preferences. Part of the fun of wet shaving is exploring various options to learn what works for you.

That last point is sometimes difficult to remember. Thank you for reminding us (me especially) that both there are so many variables in play that it is impossible to always predict the “best” solution, and also that some of the fun in the challenge is because of that factor.

Nice resolution.

 

[mjclark]

BALSA STROP: THE MOVIE

Sorry about the anti metric rant. That's why I usually don't do talkies. Got interrupted by a phone call, too.

Just watched your video Slash - you are a real inspiration!

 

[skomorokh]

Just starting out and am trying to gather an education on how to approach my first foray into razor honing. Glad I came upon this thread, very promising to see so many people this enthused with their results (and my, what a decorous and welcoming forum). Thanks for sharing this approachable technique!

I'm having better luck finding diamond powder rather than paste. Seems like it might be more versatile as I can mix 10% diamond into mineral oil as an approximation of the paste as a baseline to compare to further diluted suspensions and maybe even brushing it on dry with a paintbrush like I'd seen some suggest for CrOx. Of course rubbing thoroughly afterward to embed the crystals. Or maybe shake some with alcohol or water in a small spray bottle? Anyone experiment along these lines? Is this a bad idea for some reason I'm not realising and I should pay extra for the syringe of premade paste?

For whatever reason, the 3"x12"x3/4" acrylic I can find on eBay doesn't ship to Canada, has anyone come across a good source of a suitable pre-cut backing material that does?

 

[Slash McCoy]

Try TAP Plastics. Order direct, no ebay. Their prices are very competitive. You can also get a 12x12 stone floor tile and cut it into pieces. Or cast it with epoxy or polyester resin, or maybe lay it up in fiberglass with some glass mat, cloth, roving, even old fiberglass curtains, landscape cloth, whatever. Once you lap it flat it should be good forever. Basically, anything but more wood or cardboard! I just think the acrylic is really really nice. Also try googling for cast acrylic sheet. There has to be someone up there in the frozen north who deals in plastic.

As for the diamond dust, can't help you there. Never tried it. My suggestion is stick with what you know works, first, and then try substitutes later, after you have achieved sucess. Paste does work. Other stuff, probably but maybe not as well? Or just roll the dice and go for it, but you won't be sure if you are really getting the best possible results or not. I always advocate following known procedures in the beginning of the honing or shaving journey, to eliminate doubt and wild cards. I have been shouted down for that a few times but really, you don't need complications or confusion starting out in something like this. When you are an accomplished honer, you SHOULD be trying different things, and presenting your findings, too. Meanwhile the safe and sure paths, are, well, safer, and surer.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Just watched your video Slash - you are a real inspiration!

Danke!

 

[Twelvefret]

I've determined I do not need an acrylic base if other material are more readily available. Just remember to lap or flatten your balsa with sand paper before applying pastes.

 

[RumpleBearskin]

I hav used aluminum bar stock. The intent is that it be to size, ridgid, and stable over time. Anything that meets those turned off just fine. Glass. Acrylic. Aluminum. Steel. Tile. ...

 

[RayClem]

My local Home Depot had some 3" x 12" glazed ceramic tile. The edges were slightly rounded over. Thus, it makes a good backing plate for a bench-type pasted strop. I do not know if you have something similar in Canada. Glue the balsa to the tile flatten the balsa and then apply paste or spray.

 

[Twelvefret]

How to know when I need to add diamond paste?

 

[steveclarkus]

With regular maintenance the .1u strop should be lapped and repasted every couple
oh months. The other two, not so often.

 

[Twelvefret]

With regular maintenance the .1u strop should be lapped and repasted every couple
oh months. The other two, not so often.

Its looking thin.

 

[Slash McCoy]

How to know when I need to add diamond paste?

A proper application is good for about a month of daily use. Just reapply about half the usual amount which is a very very small amount. When the balsa isn't keeping up the edge, even with twice the normal laps, if it has been a month or more since applying, you probably need to reapply. I just do it monthly. I rub it in good with my hand, then rub with a tshirt to remove any excess that might be coating the balsa.

 

[Twelvefret]

A proper application is good for about a month of daily use. Just reapply about half the usual amount which is a very very small amount. When the balsa isn't keeping up the edge, even with twice the normal laps, if it has been a month or more since applying, you probably need to reapply. I just do it monthly. I rub it in good with my hand, then rub with a tshirt to remove any excess that might be coating the balsa.

Okay

 

[kohalajohn]

Steve, could you tell me where to order these GD shavers directly? Thanks

 

[Adonay]

I seen that you have used the Balsa with the veins perpedicular to the razor (ex: ==== !), someone has already tried to use the Balsa with the veins parallel to the razor (ex: IIIIII ! )? Make any difference?

note: in my example ! represents the razor and II represents the wood veins.

Have you used the diamond in a syringe or spray?
Could someone indicate some amazon seller?
Tks.

Greetings everyone

 

[RayClem]

I seen that you have used the Balsa with the veins perpedicular to the razor (ex: ==== !), someone has already tried to use the Balsa with the veins parallel to the razor (ex: IIIIII ! )? Make any difference?

note: in my example ! represents the razor and II represents the wood veins.

Have you used the diamond in a syringe or spray?
Could someone indicate some amazon seller?
Tks.

Greetings everyone

When you strop with the edge perpendicular to the balsa, the deeper veins are below the surface of the strop and never touch the razor. The same thing exists in a leather strop that is nicked and you sand out the nick so it is below the surface. If you try to hone with the edge parallel to the veins, there is at least a slight possibility that the edge will dip into the vein and roll the edge of the blade. Thus, I would not recommend it.