How to shave with a hollow ground? Amount of pressure etc

[sproosemoose]

Hi

I am using a hollow ground 6/8 and I have trouble with it not cutting and just bouncing along my face. I used a 5/8 half hollow and that worked a lot better. I noticed though if I apply pressure the full hollow works OK so far... but I heard you are not meant to apply pressure so I am not sure what to do.

Thanks!

 

[Alacrity59]

I'm currently using two razors myself. One is a fairly sturdy Wade and Butcher . . . I'm guessing 4/8 smile . . . the other a Geneva Cutlery full hollow and a fair bit wider. At first I felt more comfortable with the thicker blade . . . I felt more in control. I've come to like the full hollow more now . . . and I did experience the bounce . . .

Presuming the bounce is not due to lack of sharpness . . . apply more pressure to cutting through the beard . . . not against the skin.

Sorry if this sounds goofy . . . I've only passed the 100 day mark with straight shaving myself but the words I said were what made the biggest difference for me. We shave the beard . . . not the face. (I was lucky enough to see Mantic having a straight shave in Los Vegas and the barber told him that)

When I buy my next razor it will be full hollow, extra hollow, or singing

Mike

 

[Antique Hoosier]

I have experienced excellent shaves with everything from a full wedge to full hollow and everything in between. However my BEST shaves are when I dedicate myself to ONE blade for an extended period of time. Try it, it works!

 

[huntmol]

1st off - are you absolutely sure that the full hollow 6/8 is shave ready? That's crucial. If it's not, send it out to a honemeister and get it sharpened.

After it's sharp, work on keeping a 30 degree angle. Don't use long strokes - shave with short, deliberate strokes. Try different WTG/XTG/ATG strokes, and vary your hand position to see what works. Read as many straight shaving guides as possible. Watch as many B&B-sanctioned straight shaving videos as you can.

Finally, practice! The more you work at it, the better you'll get, trust me.

 

[Chimensch]

I have experienced excellent shaves with everything from a full wedge to full hollow and everything in between. However my BEST shaves are when I dedicate myself to ONE blade for an extended period of time. Try it, it works!

This is good advice!

1st off - are you absolutely sure that the full hollow 6/8 is shave ready? That's crucial. If it's not, send it out to a honemeister and get it sharpened.

After it's sharp, work on keeping a 30 degree angle. Don't use long strokes - shave with short, deliberate strokes. Try different WTG/XTG/ATG strokes, and vary your hand position to see what works. Read as many straight shaving guides as possible. Watch as many B&B-sanctioned straight shaving videos as you can.

Finally, practice! The more you work at it, the better you'll get, trust me.

I've also heard 30° thrown around a lot and I think there can be problems of interpretation. If the edge is sharp, the angle should be very low. Since the razor itself has an angle of 14-15°, the razor flat on your face would be 15° and lifted one spine-width from the face would be 30°. At least that's how I use it. Short deliberate strokes is also good advice. The razor needs to have some momentum and a short energetic burst is better than slowly pushing it down the face because of the danger of catching on something (like a wrinkle). Which leads to the importance of stretching to smooth out the terrain and eliminate things to catch on. So, stretch (as much as you can), keep the angle low and mow down them hairs.

 

[huntmol]

I agree about the variability of the angle, but for some reason when I was starting out it really helped me to visualize a 30 degree angle, so I recommend it to others. You're definitely right though - the angle should definitely very low to the face on a sharp blade.

 

[Thebigspendur]

Hi

I am using a hollow ground 6/8 and I have trouble with it not cutting and just bouncing along my face. I used a 5/8 half hollow and that worked a lot better. I noticed though if I apply pressure the full hollow works OK so far... but I heard you are not meant to apply pressure so I am not sure what to do.

Thanks!

Sounds like a typical sharpness issue to me.

 

[JPDyson]

Sounds like a typical sharpness issue to me.

It's my experience (VERY VERY LIMITED) that hollow ground razors magnify the effect of a less than keen edge, as well as bad technique. I've done the same things to maintain the edges of both a Wostenholm (Sheffield-born wedge) and a Dovo Special (Solingen hollow), and my wedge is more forgiving of angle and edge sharpness.

I think this is why so many of us tend toward wedges early, and get frustrated when we see Joel gliding through 3 days growth with an extra-hollow singing razor and it's barely making a peep. I start shaving 2 days worth with my Dovo and it sounds like velcro.

 

[professorchaos]

My best advice: practice.

 

[Ender Wiggins]

I agree about the variability of the angle, but for some reason when I was starting out it really helped me to visualize a 30 degree angle, so I recommend it to others. You're definitely right though - the angle should definitely very low to the face on a sharp blade.

The first time I tried using my straight I had the angle completely wrong it didn't cut any facial hair at all. After I thought about the angle a DE blade would be at and tried to use it that angle, it made all the difference.

Keep adjusting the angle until it feels right.

 

[mouscacha]

I think this is why so many of us tend toward wedges early, and get frustrated when we see Joel gliding through 3 days growth with an extra-hollow singing razor and it's barely making a peep. I start shaving 2 days worth with my Dovo and it sounds like velcro.

Amen brother!