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How to shave against the grain (ATG) without getting nicks?
- Thread starter User123456
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I was just going to say the same thing. All directions require the same skills - good lather, razor angle and a decided lack of pressure. If you're not having trouble with WTG and XTG you might want to try and figure out what's different about your technique on the ATG pass - or try going XTG in two different directions (two passes).
I will add that I cannot go ATG on my upper lip without some irritation. No weepers, but my skin is unhappy with the result. I substitute blade buffing XTG on that area and it works quite well.
- Thread starter
- #23
I think that my equipment suits my beard. I've tried some amount of blades and I've found the combination, which gives me almost, except from the accidental ones, zero nicks when going WTG and XTG.
I have tried going ATG with a very aggressive, in my opinion, razor (RazoRock Mission super knurl) and still had the same problem.
Either way, thanks for adding in something more!
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- #24
I might look into pre-shave soaps since I got into DE shaving and I'm probably not going away.
Thanks for your contribution!
Yes, agreed. ALSO...I never shave where I have not lathered. I see some men rely on residual slickness sometimes - I do not. I also always do 'against' as the last pass - partly because I sometimes find I don't need it and I just stop there. Lastly, I do not keep blades too long. I replace a blade if I even have a vague sense it is no longer as sharp as I prefer.This.
I think you're improving technique as you noted is most important. Most of my neck I shave 'northerly' but have one spot I reverse and angle on my neck completely - just a strange way my beard grows. This ends up working perfectly for me. Check out Michael Freedberg's YouTube videos, he touches on and addresses these type issues quite well.
I use a pre-shave oil. Lots of it
A suitable razor can make your ATG more smooth and easy, such as Karve Overlander
@User123456 , NorthernSoul summed up the ideal approach perfectly in his post.
Hmm, I've been shaving ATG exclusively since 1975 and the only thing I get out of the ordinary is weepers from too much pressure on a fresh blade.
What razor and blade are you using? A very mild razor (not much gap or blade exposure) will pull ATG more than an aggressive one, and that might temp you to use too much pressure.
And when you say "nicks", do you mean bit of skin gouged out or tiny blood spots? I call tiny blood spot weepers since they weep blood slowly for a few minutes. Nicks are when I shave a skin bump off (one of the great joys of aging is that you grow all sorts of weird stuff on you skin). A real nick is when my tic causes me to move the razor sideways, I've cut a few nice divots in my chin that way.
You only need enough pressure on the razor to keep the edge in close contact with your skin -- even a dull razor unsuitable for shaving will slice you up, skin is softer than wet hair. Going ATG pulls more in general that WTG, and that slight pulling sensation tempts you to add pressure -- I have the same issue with Lord razor blades, they pull more and I tend to use too much pressure and too low a shaving angle with them.
Light pressure, slick lather, short strokes, sharp blade at the right angle, ATG should work pretty well.
And lather -- you need very slick lather for ATG. Great piles of stiff whipped cream isn't what you want, you need fairly thin shiny lather, only needs to be thick enough to stay for your entire pass, and your skin must still be slick for a while after you run the razor over it. Soap is only there to soften the beard a little and make your skin slick so the edge of the blade slips over it instead of digging in. I see lots of Youtube shavers piling on thick, dense soap and know it's not gonna be good. Most shaving soaps load easily, and it's not hard to put way too much soap on your brush. Feels great going on, but what you really need is almost runny lather.
What razor and blade are you using? A very mild razor (not much gap or blade exposure) will pull ATG more than an aggressive one, and that might temp you to use too much pressure.
And when you say "nicks", do you mean bit of skin gouged out or tiny blood spots? I call tiny blood spot weepers since they weep blood slowly for a few minutes. Nicks are when I shave a skin bump off (one of the great joys of aging is that you grow all sorts of weird stuff on you skin). A real nick is when my tic causes me to move the razor sideways, I've cut a few nice divots in my chin that way.
You only need enough pressure on the razor to keep the edge in close contact with your skin -- even a dull razor unsuitable for shaving will slice you up, skin is softer than wet hair. Going ATG pulls more in general that WTG, and that slight pulling sensation tempts you to add pressure -- I have the same issue with Lord razor blades, they pull more and I tend to use too much pressure and too low a shaving angle with them.
Light pressure, slick lather, short strokes, sharp blade at the right angle, ATG should work pretty well.
And lather -- you need very slick lather for ATG. Great piles of stiff whipped cream isn't what you want, you need fairly thin shiny lather, only needs to be thick enough to stay for your entire pass, and your skin must still be slick for a while after you run the razor over it. Soap is only there to soften the beard a little and make your skin slick so the edge of the blade slips over it instead of digging in. I see lots of Youtube shavers piling on thick, dense soap and know it's not gonna be good. Most shaving soaps load easily, and it's not hard to put way too much soap on your brush. Feels great going on, but what you really need is almost runny lather.
I had a similar issue. What really helped me out was facelathering. I guess that the additional time for the soap to work on my whiskers made them softer.
In addition when you feel that hard atg doesn't work you can take a direction between xtg and atg.
Finally if you feel like it is going to dig in, instead of plowing through stop and start in a different spot maybe even a different part of your face. Second time through it might go smoother.
In addition when you feel that hard atg doesn't work you can take a direction between xtg and atg.
Finally if you feel like it is going to dig in, instead of plowing through stop and start in a different spot maybe even a different part of your face. Second time through it might go smoother.
When I feel it is going to dig in, it is usually all my lubrication is gone and my skin is a bit waterlogged.
I reapply my preshave soap (Cube 2.0) and a bit more lather. Then go at it carefully. Better to leave a little bristle than remove too much skin trying for perfect.
I reapply my preshave soap (Cube 2.0) and a bit more lather. Then go at it carefully. Better to leave a little bristle than remove too much skin trying for perfect.
How can I shave WTG on the Neck when My hair/grain runs E - W?
Which direction would be XTG?
Which direction would be XTG?
Was about to post this same thing. Got a couple of really good WTG shaves and went straight for ATG on my neck and wrecked it. I think the promising part of it for me, and for you from what it sounds like, is that I gave myself a bunch of knicks. I feel like knicks are more preventable over time with improving technique rather than flat out irritation or burn, which sound like they’re almost inevitable for some people no matter what they do
Are you guys re-applying lather before the ATG pass? I find I need that, badly. Especially if I am on a third pass for the ATG. Then I often spot apply lather or my preshave soap as I touch up after that.
I shave my head and have a lot of grain directions and scalp topography variations that require more passes and touch ups which is risky for rawness and cuts as carelessness grows over time, lubrications deplete, and while skin also gets waterlogged and more grabby.
(Run on sentence alert!!)
I have the same pattern. I do N-S as my WTG and S-N and my XTG pass and then I do ATG E-W. Seems to work for me. Yes none are technically WTG, but rather two XTG passes.
Every pass gets a face rinse and a reapplication of lather in my case.
Welcome to B&B! We are so glad to decided to join us.
Several possible suggestions for that. For you, if I am understanding correctly, XTG would be more or less from the jawline down towards the base of the neck.
One way to go WTG is to hold the razor in a "backhand" grip and shave from the centerline out toward the ear. This can help reduce irritation by removing much of the hair before going XTG or ATG.
Another way is to go more or less N-S first with your chin held high, as a reduction pass, followed by two diagonal passes in different directions. One diagonal pass will be almost ATG, but not directly.
Hope that is clear.
If your razor is catching at all it’s a matter of pressure.
How have the tips helped, were there any that were particularly helpful?
How have the tips helped, were there any that were particularly helpful?
