How to restore a wood handle

[martinocando]

I just got a vintage rubberset brush, and the handle is in pretty good condition, although a bit faded and dry. I'd like to give it a very nice shine and enhance the wood, instead of painting it. What can I use that it will protect it from moisture, and make it look good?

 

[ajkel64]

I have not restored that many brushes, but I have had success with a wooden handle by giving it a light sanding back, then a nice stain and a coat of clear polyurethane. Other members who restore lots of brushes should have more tips and tricks.

 

[mrlandpirate]

I used wood dye and varnish

 

[martinocando]

View attachment 887598 View attachment 887596

I used wood dye and varnish

They look great. Although I'm looking for a natural wood look.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[CigarSmoka]

You can use an oil that will polymerize to help protect the brush, such as danish or boiled linseed oil. I’ll probably get chastised by the other woodworkers here for saying not to use pure tung oil (different from “tung oil finish”) because it takes too long to fully cure, like a few months. Since the brush will get wet it’s not the best choice IMO. Sand and buff for a matte finish or use some polyurethane if you want a higher gloss. Polyurethane doesn’t “burn in” to itself from coat to coat, so a light sanding between coats will be necessary. You can also use spray lacquer, but sealing it with a few coats of lacquer sealer and sanding is recommended. Truthfully, if you ask 10 woodworkers how to finish it you’ll get 11 answers, so take all the advice as a guidline and not as law.

 

[jasonwilldermood]

I have had great luck with multiple coats of tung oil with light sanding between coats. Tung oil is very easy to use and forgiving. All of these brushes were very ratty when I bought them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[martinocando]

They look very nice. I'll look for the tung oil.

 

[Graydog]

You can also use spray lacquer, but sealing it with a few coats of lacquer sealer and sanding is recommended. Truthfully, if you ask 10 woodworkers how to finish it you’ll get 11 answers, so take all the advice as a guidline and not as law.

I would and have used Lacquer .
Are you going to change the knot?

 

[martinocando]

I would and have used Lacquer .
Are you going to change the knot?

Yup. Knot is already out and ready for the ace shaving silvertip.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[martinocando]

Finalized product. The knot is a 19mm Ace Shaving Silvertip. Sadly can't place it deeper, since the handle won't allow it. The loft is 53mm, which is not bad, but it doesn't have too much backbone. I guess I'll leave it for creams or croaps, and bowl lathering only.

I used red silicone (as can be seen in the lower part of the knot), so if it doesn't work, I might try re-setting it deeper, but for that, I'll have to drill on the handle, which I don't really want to do.

And about the wood, I just gave it a few coats of mineral oil. I might try some lacquer if it gets too wet.

Will shave tonight with it, and report back.

 

[bakerbarber]

How'd you fill in the lettering? With what?

Looks great!

 

[martinocando]

I got a 3-pack tubes of rub&buff, one is antique gold, gold leaf, and silver. I used the gold leaf. Applied it with a little brush and polished it out with a piece of paper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ajkel64]

It looks good, big improvement on what you started with.

 

[CigarSmoka]

Excellent restoration.

 

[martinocando]

Reporting back, awesome brush. It doesn't have a huge backbone but I love the compact size. It makes a great travel brush. In fact I've been using it daily for the past week. Love it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BigJ]

I have had great luck with multiple coats of tung oil with light sanding between coats. Tung oil is very easy to use and forgiving. All of these brushes were very ratty when I bought them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great looking restorations!