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How To: Late Fatboy and Slim disassembly

This definately needs to be a sticky. There are nice Slims and Fatboys out there that can be brought back to life. Thanks for the great idea.
 
This post is getting a lot of mileage...I am going to try this on one of my Fatboys with a non-working adjuster!

Thank you!
 
Well I spent a couple hours trying to get all the gunk out of one of my Fat Boys I bought to re-sell and after going over and over with it with a toothpick I realized that there's some type of gunk on the inside that keeps coming out but very slowly that's making it turn slow and so the adjuster doesn't want to click unless you turn it very fast. I would say the substance is the same as bike chain oil, might be being so old, never know who owned the razor or how dumb they were. Don't think I'll go through with this disassembley. Just list it as FIX or PARTS but still shaveable. Hehe! I'm going to try some Simple Green. I think I read someone say once they put their razor in olive oil for a few days and that clear their razor out but a relative told me that the olive oil goes bad and it also shouldn't be put in after shave as it will go rotten in that, too! COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL.
 
What's the best way to re-crimp that end cap when you put it back together? I have some small round nose pliers that mostly do the job, but I'm looking for a way that is "cleaner." That is, a tool that will crimp the ends more like the way the cap was before I removed it. Any tips would really be appreciated.
 
Well, I put my trusty Dremel grinding wheel to an old, forgotten pair of small needle nose pliers to try to make an impromptu end cap crimping tool for these pesky Gillette Slim end caps. It looks like this:
PXL_20220512_233050077.MP.jpg

It appears to do a much better job than the round nose pliers I had used previously. Even though I removed a fair amount of material from the ends of these pliers, I'm guessing they are still plenty strong enough to crimp the thin walls of the brass end cap. I have two Slims that I had taken apart (I like to tinker), and these modified pliers definitely made my prior "re-crimping" job look much neater and more secure-almost as good as new. The endcaps on both of these razors functionally worked, but looked a little rough. The next time I tear down one of these, I'll be interested to see how cleanly the tool re-crimps the cap. I'm actually a little excited to try it out :biggrin:
 
ive been working the crimp problem for a while now. I found that using my small arbor press with a little brass tube in the chuck attachment is PERFECT for poppin the caps (the hammer and socket scares me)but still havnt been able to get a nice clean re crimp. Has anybody tried to square up the cap after poppin it? Theres so little room to work so im workin on a pair of flat nose pliers to allow me to re square it up before i crimp back down. I had made a nice pair of little triangle tipped pliers but i went too thin and snapped one side off attempting to crimp. Please somebody go raid a gillette factory and find us that crimping tool!!!!
 
My modded needle nose shown in the photo I posted work great. Nevertheless, if you find a source of Gillette factory tooling, let me know ;)

The tool that is still eluding me is one that removes and replaces the C-clips in the same location on Super Speeds made after about 1957.
 
My modded needle nose shown in the photo I posted work great. Nevertheless, if you find a source of Gillette factory tooling, let me know ;)

The tool that is still eluding me is one that removes and replaces the C-clips in the same location on Super Speeds made after about 1957.
Are you sure its a tool? I think they assembke it in a certain way that the c ring is already on the t bar except they havnt added the horizontal beam so its just a rod then c ring goes on feed through the tto from the bottom then the body then lastly the head? Please tell me if this sounds stupid lol ive tried to make needle nose pliers thin enough with a slot to hold the c ring then reach in and squeeze it in there but it just doesnt seem to work for me 😂
 
I'm not sure how Gillette assembled the Super Speeds with the C-clip, but I doubt they put the clip in place before fixing the horizontal portion of the T-bar. My doubts stem mainly from the fact that, before 1958, Super Speeds had a reverse threaded screw in the base of the T-bar rod. Those are easy to remove if you have the right type of screwdriver. Also, all the Fatboys and Slims are designed so that a fully built T-bar can be inserted into the handle of the razor. It wouldn't make sense to build Super Speeds differently during the same time period in which Fatboys and Slims were being built. I'm sure that Gillette had some sort of machine that installed those C-clips in less than a second on the assembly line.
 
I'm not sure how Gillette assembled the Super Speeds with the C-clip, but I doubt they put the clip in place before fixing the horizontal portion of the T-bar. My doubts stem mainly from the fact that, before 1958, Super Speeds had a reverse threaded screw in the base of the T-bar rod. Those are easy to remove if you have the right type of screwdriver. Also, all the Fatboys and Slims are designed so that a fully built T-bar can be inserted into the handle of the razor. It wouldn't make sense to build Super Speeds differently during the same time period in which Fatboys and Slims were being built. I'm sure that Gillette had some sort of machine that installed those C-clips in less than a second on the assembly line.
how springy are the C clips? They could simply press them on looking at one now it is tapered a tiny bit and looks like you’d be able to just push it on and over the ledge to get it locked on. I have a full set of those U shaped hex bits i used them once when i wanted to pull the Tbar out after crimping the little wings under the head on one of my flair tips
 
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