No pictures right now, but I was restoring some black plastic/celluloid scales. I sanded with 1500 grit w/d sand paper, followed by a few applications of Mothers polish. The scales still look dull, and I'm wondering how I can get them really shiny. Everything is done by hand. Maybe I need to sand to a higher grit, or spend more time polishing? Any suggestions appreciated.
How to get scales really shiny?
- Thread starter justino_14
- Start date
I use lapping film after my 8k when honing and my left over 3um and 1um i use for polishing the horn scales and has worked fine so far, i haven't tried it on the celluloid or plastic yet but i will give it a try
Sand up to a higher grit, maybe 2k or 2.5k. I also use #0000 steel wool.
You could lacquer the scales and polish further, or use a silicone based spray straight on the scales to see if the sheen returns. Try 0000 steelwool after the w/d paper, its a lot finer IME
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
A slow turning buffing wheel with 1u diamond paste, after sanding up to 2k grit.
It is really important, for a high gloss, that whatever grid sandpaper you begin with, you totally obliterate all defects. For most scales I would start with 400 or 600 grit unless there are deep scratches or dents. Then the next grit must totally obliterate all the scratches left by the previous stage. Then the next grit must totally obliterate all the scratches left by the previous stage. Then the next grit must totally obliterate all the scratches left by the previous stage. Then the next grit must totally obliterate all the scratches left by the previous stage. etc. Maybe you see a pattern there. You can change sanding direction if necessary, in order to tell the scratches of the current stage from those of the previous stage. You will want a very bright light and a loupe. Anything from 4x to 10x will work fine. The wheel must turn slowly so as not to overheat the scales. Hand buffing with a piece of old tshirt is slower but it works if you keep at it. From 1u diamond paste you can jump to .25u if you want, then to .1u but really it isn't necessary. A good final buffing with a clean rag wheel helps a lot.
You can also cheat by coating the scales with polyester or epoxy resin.
You can apply paste wax and rub it out, repeat until you have the desired effect.
It is really important, for a high gloss, that whatever grid sandpaper you begin with, you totally obliterate all defects. For most scales I would start with 400 or 600 grit unless there are deep scratches or dents. Then the next grit must totally obliterate all the scratches left by the previous stage. Then the next grit must totally obliterate all the scratches left by the previous stage. Then the next grit must totally obliterate all the scratches left by the previous stage. Then the next grit must totally obliterate all the scratches left by the previous stage. etc. Maybe you see a pattern there. You can change sanding direction if necessary, in order to tell the scratches of the current stage from those of the previous stage. You will want a very bright light and a loupe. Anything from 4x to 10x will work fine. The wheel must turn slowly so as not to overheat the scales. Hand buffing with a piece of old tshirt is slower but it works if you keep at it. From 1u diamond paste you can jump to .25u if you want, then to .1u but really it isn't necessary. A good final buffing with a clean rag wheel helps a lot.
You can also cheat by coating the scales with polyester or epoxy resin.
You can apply paste wax and rub it out, repeat until you have the desired effect.
