How to get a closer shave with the Tatara Masamune (or mild razors in general)?

[pdillon]

I have been shaving for a few weeks exclusively with the Masamune safety-bar razor to try to dial it in. It is so easy to shave with this razor every day. I recently started rotating in other razors and after shaving with my iKon Tech I was reminded of what BBS feels like.

I don't need or expect the Masamume to shave as close as the tech, but what should I focus on technique wise to ensure I am getting the closest shave with this mild razor?

On my next shave I will really try to focus on angle. Perhaps I am getting lazy because the razor is "easy" and I am not maintaining the optimum angle. On the other hand, the range of good angles would then seem small so any tips on maintaining the angle?

Also as I have been watching videos, for example Michael Freedberg shaving with the Masamune, I notice shavers taking multiple strokes in the same area, using the residual slickness after the lather has been wiped away on the first stroke. I only make one stroke through an area per pass--except some buffing on the chin. Repeat strokes are not necessary with the tech for example and I thought they were bad practice, but perhaps I should be doing it with the Masamune. Any thoughts?

 

[thombrogan]

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If you can feel either the cap or safety bar (or open comb if you’re using that Tatara Masamune…), it’s likely the incorrect angle for a razor with negative blade exposure. They’re sirens because they make pressing harder or doing too many strokes with not enough lather so darned tempting (helps keep me all scraped looking!).

Good luck!

 

[ackvil]

A razor with a negative blade exposure requires a different angle than other razors. Adjust the angle so that you feel more blade exposure. As for multiple passes, that can be considered blade bluffing is OK as long as you don't put pressure on the blade and limit the number of strokes.

 

[EclipseRedRing]

You could try a different blade as I believe some brands have slightly different dimensions thus giving different exposures. Of course you can also try a known sharp blade such as a Feather. Many shavers seem to start mild, then go more aggressive then go back to milder. I think it is more fun to drive a slow car fast, than a fast car slowly, to use a motoring analogy. It is my belief that a milder razor with a sharp blade requires and develops better technique. I suspect that many men who switch to more aggressive razors because they believe that somehow their beards are abnormally tough, would be better advised to improve their technique. You can also use a shim but that defeats the point of using a mild razor. Good luck.

 

[jmudrick]

A razor with a negative blade exposure requires a different angle than other razors. Adjust the angle so that you feel more blade exposure. As for multiple passes, that can be considered blade bluffing is OK as long as you don't put pressure on the blade and limit the number of strokes.

depending on the behavior of the skin being shaved, a razor with negative exposure may require significant pressure to cut effectively. This depends both on how flat or curved the surface, how taught or saggy the skin is, as well gap and safety bar design.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[Fedsbackhand]

On my next shave I will really try to focus on angle. Perhaps I am getting lazy because the razor is "easy" and I am not maintaining the optimum angle. On the other hand, the range of good angles would then seem small so any tips on maintaining the angle?

Check the angle, the best angle I find isn't the standard 30 degrees but more like 24 degrees like Tatara suggest. Maybe your angle is slightly off.

How is your pressure?

What about your lather. The best shaves I've had involved pretty thin but slick lather, in fact my best results involved hard water, a soap that had broken down and wicked light pressure with a feather blade (and the right angle).

Of course, it is possible that you do need a more efficient razor or to try different baseplates, caps. Or more practice.

 

[steffenapelz]

So as a Tamara Masamune fan, I agree with much of what has been said...

1) try different blades. I have tried many, but find the Nacet to give me the closest shave. Kai blades are the widest available, IIRC, so they would minimize the negative blade exposure.

2) play with the angle. Steep angle with this razor does not work. I believe a shallower than average angle is best with this razor, but you need to find that spot. I go pretty shallow with excellent results.

3) buffing is 100% OK with this razor...actually one of its strengths because you can buff difficult spots without grating your skin like you would with a very aggressive razor.

4) as crazy as it may sound, play with some of the beard prep as well as conditioning the whiskers can play a role. I always use a preshave oil or preshave in general to make sure my hairs are ready for the blade.

 

[glassmtn99]

Try a KAI DE blade. They are slightly wider than a typical DE blade.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Accuracy of angle, as neutral as possible, and skin stretching is whatever may maximises the exposure of the stubble. If you get those two right, you shouldn't need to scrub with a razor (any razor). Also, don't over prep, as over hydrating will fluff up the skin, reducing stubble exposure.

 

[Invicta]

I notice shavers taking multiple strokes in the same area, using the residual slickness after the lather has been wiped away on the first stroke. I only make one stroke through an area per pass--except some buffing on the chin. Repeat strokes are not necessary with the tech for example and I thought they were bad practice....

It is bad practice to make repeated strokes over the same area; often shown on videos. However, blade buffing is usually lightly dragging the razor back and forth but staying in contact with the skin. That action also drags some lather over as well.
The correct blade angle will gets the stubble cut so concentrate on that. If you want to work out the neutral angle, put a straight edge across cap and guard and that will illustrate the neutral angle for the razor.

 

[SillyPancake]

I am using Masamune (both top cap and base plate) and no issue getting BBS on my upper portion of face (above chin line). But, you have to play with the angle. Tatara likes shallower angle then my Karve, but both can deliver very close shave.

 

[Haiku]

I agree with EclipseRedRing. Try a Feather blade. I find mild razors with sharp blades to be great. As an aside, the Feather razor is considered to be really very mild and I've no doubt that paired with a Feather blade it would be terrific.

 

[Joncr]

Closest shaves I get with mild razors - neutral angle, safety bar and top cap both on skin, sharp blade, thin lather , Cremo, Trader Joe’s, Harry’s. Good luck

 

[Fedsbackhand]

I have tried many, but find the Nacet to give me the closest shave. Kai blades are the widest available, IIRC, so they would minimize the negative blade exposure.

While Kai blades may increase the exposure they are a pain to fit into the razor. I'm using feathers, polsilver and more recently wizamets.

I believe a shallower than average angle is best with this razor, but you need to find that spot. I go pretty shallow with excellent results.

I shoot for a neutral angle like many are suggesting. Maybe the problem is that @pdillon is going too shallow, as this is very comfortable it is easy to overdo the angle.

Adding pressure is not the answer in my experience.

 

[pdillon]

If you can feel either the cap or safety bar (or open comb if you’re using that Tatara Masamune…), it’s likely the incorrect angle for a razor with negative blade exposure.

Thanks for the link. I have not seen that great post before.

Adjust the angle so that you feel more blade exposure.

This is a helpful heuristic, especially to maintain the angle during a pass where I think I have been losing it before.

Check the angle, the best angle I find isn't the standard 30 degrees but more like 24 degrees like Tatara suggest. Maybe your angle is slightly off.

How is your pressure?

What about your lather. The best shaves I've had involved pretty thin but slick lather, in fact my best results involved hard water, a soap that had broken down and wicked light pressure with a feather blade (and the right angle).

Of course, it is possible that you do need a more efficient razor or to try different baseplates, caps. Or more practice.

One thing that excites about this razor is the opportunity to practice technique. 24 degree angle is helpful to think about but seems too precise to put into practice, but I do read this as a directive to use the razor a little more shallow than others.

Minimal pressure. Today I made sure to hold low on the handle to ensure light pressure.

Interesting point about lather. I have been using B&M Le Grande Chypre and getting fantastic lather. That said, while slick it is also thick. The soap is easy to overload. Today I did 25 swirls and it was still pretty thick even with plenty of water. Performance is great.

So as a Tamara Masamune fan, I agree with much of what has been said...

1) try different blades. I have tried many, but find the Nacet to give me the closest shave. Kai blades are the widest available, IIRC, so they would minimize the negative blade exposure.

2) play with the angle. Steep angle with this razor does not work. I believe a shallower than average angle is best with this razor, but you need to find that spot. I go pretty shallow with excellent results.

3) buffing is 100% OK with this razor...actually one of its strengths because you can buff difficult spots without grating your skin like you would with a very aggressive razor.

4) as crazy as it may sound, play with some of the beard prep as well as conditioning the whiskers can play a role. I always use a preshave oil or preshave in general to make sure my hairs are ready for the blade.

I always prep with a shower and aos oil.

Try a KAI DE blade. They are slightly wider than a typical DE blade.

I have almost always shaved with a feather in this razor with an occasional astra. I dont want to change too many variables at once so I used a new Feather today but I think I have a tuck of kais and will try those out once finished with this fresh blade.

Thank you all for such thoughtful and detailed responses. This is exactly what I was looking for. I did a three pass shave today trying to take many of these tips into mind. The shave was definitely closer and a great comfortable shave. I am still working toward that glassy feeling I got with the tech but I have a lot to work with here. Thanks again!

 

[pdillon]

I shoot for a neutral angle like many are suggesting. Maybe the problem is that @pdillon is going too shallow, as this is very comfortable it is easy to overdo the angle.

Adding pressure is not the answer in my experience.

Despite my comment re 24 degrees being shallower than any other razors, I am shooting for the neutral angle. Whether I am achieving it or not is a different question. I meant to add in my earlier comment that I found the angle the most tricky on the against the grain pass which is probably something I let slide in earlier shaves.

 

[Fedsbackhand]

I agree 24 degrees is pretty hard to achieve (but helpful to visualise) and of course this the angle of the blade not the handle. I try and go by feel of the blade in practice.

I know you are trying not to change lots at once, but do try a thinner lather.

 

[jefffeith]

I love my Masamune. It may be the best razor I own. It took three of four shaves to dial it in but once you have it you never lose it. This razor has brought me clear skin - maybe it’s the negative blade exposure? Whatever it is, my skin feels great with this razor.

 

[ajduplessis]

@pdillon Increasing pressure is the worst advise ever...

Change you blade angle to a shallower angle, well below 30 degrees and reduce you pressure even more. Do a proper beard map and follow those routes. I have different routes for each of my face quadrants. Typically users following what they see on the tube, straight up, across and down. It’s a good place to start but your shave must evolve to include more detail if you want close and smooth shaves.

Sharp blades is a must. Typically if your prep is on point with wet, very wet lather and light pressure you will achieve closer shaves.

The ligher you touch the closer the shave, with a caveat that you have a sharp blade presented at the right (shallow) angles.

 

[BigJ]

Great advice above!

For me, the combination of a ‘mild/moderate’ razor with a sharp blade is bliss, once I dial things in! So I would start working my way through the blade stash, especially Nacet, Feather, Kai, GSB, etc.