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How To Find A Great Men's Hair Stylist

Some guys have difficult hair, with lots of cowlicks and waves, and finding a great stylist can be a challenge. This has always been true for me. Even in the big cities where I've lived, like Chicago and Manhattan, it's not been easy to get consistently excellent haircuts. For the benefit of my fellow B&B men, I thought I'd share the tricks I've learned for finding a great stylist.

1) Never walk into a salon and settle for whichever stylist is available. You might get stuck with the least-experienced or least-talented stylist. There is a reason why great stylists are always booked and rarely available for walk-ins.

I learned that lesson the hard way during the year I lived in Albuquerque. I walked into a popular salon and let them steer me toward the only available stylist. As we chatted while she washed my hair, I mentioned that I came from Chicago. This was during the time that our governor was on trial for corruption and in the news. The stylist appeared to assume he was considered a style leader for Chicago men's hair. So she gave me a Rod Blagojevich:

$BlagoHair.jpg

2) Look for a stylist that specializes in men's hair. Even if your wife / girlfriend swears by her stylist, and always has great-looking hair, that person might not be right for you. There is no reason to shy away from unisex salons. That's where I've always found the best stylists, rather than at more traditional manly barber shops. Just be sure the stylist you choose is very experienced with men's cuts.

3) A great stylist will tell you the truth when you have a bad idea. I asked my current stylist (who is the best I've ever had) if I should consider highlights or some treatment to remove some of the grey from my hair. He very firmly talked me out of that idea, rather than using it as an opportunity to upsell me into something more profitable for the salon. A bad stylist will upsell relentlessly and even suggest goofy things you've never considered, like the aforementioned stylist in Albuquerque who tried to convince me to dye my eyebrows (!)

4) If possible, find a men's hair expert who is also an owner of the salon. Yes, that person may be more expensive than a less-experienced stylist, but here's the advantage: They own the salon and they aren't as likely to disappear on you. I hate going through the process of working with a new stylist and then having them vanish when they take a job someplace else. It can require a couple of cuts before a stylist figures out your hair, so you're looking for a long-term relationship.

Needless to say, none of these tips apply to anyone with a buzz cut or a style that any chain like Supercuts can handle. I have one friend with very simple haircut needs who only goes to barbers with monosyllabic names: first it was Joe, then Gus and now it's Sam.

For those men looking for something a bit more stylish, or who just have difficult hair like mine, I hope you'll find these tips helpful.

Nick
 
This is very good advice and I adhere to all of it. I used to go to Supercuts, because I'm poor and can't afford to spend much money, but my haircuts were always terrible. Finally, I decided to spend a little more and it has definitely been worth it. I actually commute 45 minutes on the subway to Brooklyn, where I used to live, and where the virtuoso stylist who cuts my hair works.
 
You should try to find a real old-fashion men's "barbershop" instead of a "salon."

I have, and I received some of the worst haircuts of my life. Depends on the style you want, your type of hair, and many other factors. Like I said, my advice was for men with difficult hair and/or a desire for a more modern style.

As with everything on B&B, YMMV.

Nick
 
I thought a stylist that specialized in Men's hair was called a barber.

This is one of Life's great pursuits... Finding the perfect barber.

Big cities like Chicago and New York have salons that come and go with fashion trends. My barber has been in the same location as far back as anyone can remember, cutting hair for generations. There are 1/2 dozen or so in town that are pretty much the same. There are good ones and bad ones but the quality variance isn't as wide as a salon. I've wandered from time to time (other barbers and salons) but mostly I've stuck with the same guy and now I've stopped "experimenting". I went back for a 25 year college class reunion recently and the same barber that was cutting hair at the Main Street Barbershop was there (with his son at the #2 chair now).

That said, I stick to a basic Ivy League (sometimes called a Princeton) cut and just vary the distance off the ears and closeness of the cut. In the Summer I'll ask for a 0 trimmer and 2 finger whitewalls (3 if I'm really daring), in the Winter I'll go up to a 1 or 2 and skip the whitewalls. My barber's price list includes in-between haircut cleanups around ears/neck. $12 haircut, $8 cleanup. Both end with a straight razor cleeanup around the neck and since I've reached that age, cleanup in the ears, eyebrows and nose. The most I've paid was $65 (IN 1997) for a fancy salon haircut in Manhattan... One of the worst I've had. The licensing for a stylist did not include buzzer at the time (not sure if it does now). Barbers are still required to demonstrate profiency with a buzzer and a strait razor shave to get a license (even though only a few places offer shaves anymore).

It's more important for one to know their own hair and the basics of barber shops, terminology, equipment... taper, fade, whitewalls, 0,1, 2, layer , thin... Find a style or two that works with the hair + face shape you got and stick with it. Modern styles are just variations of traditional cuts. I hear the unfortunately named Nazi cut is making a comeback and remember the late 90s when Caesar cuts were all the rage?

Here's a site that's ben archived. Covers the basics. for traditional men's cuts.

http://www.reocities.com/RodeoDrive/3696/

MHO only... Now... If we can only get Baba to open up shop in the NY. I'd pay $65 for a haircut that ended with this:


 
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It is hard to find someone good. But, when you do, stick with them. I used to think only gay guys or black ladies could cut my hair they way I liked it. However, the lady that cuts my hair now is pretty awesome. She's a relative. I usually take my son to either her, her boss or her boss' partner. They're just great with him and his hair. I'll use them but also have a barber on the other side of town I like to use, too. It's a deaf guy that can put a taper on like nobody's business. Just depends on where I am when I need some hair gone. Good to have options.
 
I'm one of the lucky guys who has been able to go to the same barber who has cut my hair since I was 10 years old. Now I take my 7 and 10 year old sons to him once a month to get our hair cuts. I can't say that every haircut in over the 25+ years I've been going to him has been perfect, but I'm as happy with the way he cuts my hair and my sons' hair. I've never changed my style up too much on him. I've always told him what I wanted and he's never recommended anything different.... but it's the way I like it and I suspect he's fine with it. I tip him alot better now too than I did when I was 10 :biggrin1:. I guess I've never had to think about "how to find a good men's hair stylist". Well, my barber is not going to work and live forever so someday I'll have to find a new one. For me, getting my hair cut has always only been half of the reason for going to the barber shop.... I like to sit and visit and spend the time with my boys. I went to a salon once when I was about 13 and it bothered me. My mother took me because my was in Boston for the week. It smelled like burnt hair, perfume and chemicals. The woman stylist gave me a "spike" hairstyle which was popular at the time and fussed over me and told me how lucky I was because I had such a thick head of hair and how I wouldn't even have to put any mousse or gel or anything in my hair because it would just stick up by itself. I was creeped out and when my dad got home I remember being ashamed to stand in front of him. I felt a bit like a traitor and I didn't think that my regular barber would ever take me back. My dad said "Oh, he won't care". He was right. Funny how you think when you're a kid.

Ben
 
I was creeped out and when my dad got home I remember being ashamed to stand in front of him. I felt a bit like a traitor and I didn't think that my regular barber would ever take me back. My dad said "Oh, he won't care". He was right. Funny how you think when you're a kid.

Ben

 
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You should try to find a real old-fashion men's "barbershop" instead of a "salon."

I have gotten some of the worst haircuts in my life from a "barbershop." I have tried many barbers, and while they tend to be less expensive than the salons, they never seem to be able to cut my hair correctly. YMMV. I am sure there are some great barbers out there, but apparently none of them live in my town.
 
This chaps my butt, too. I prefer to go to the barber accross the street but can never make it there before he closes at 6 so I decided to go to a stylist. The stylist did a great job twice. After booking a third appointment I was told that he moved to another salon on the other side of town. I started going to Floyds about 2 months ago and have yet to get the same person twice. Grrrrrrrrrrrr......
 
This is one of these weird fields where to be honest I have always found that the more you pay the worse your hair looks. [My wife assures me this is only true for mens places!]. Because of that I end up choosing places on the basis of the clientele (so their haircuts) the barbers (and their haircuts) and the general aesthetics of the building. What does not work is "mens places that give you free alcohol" or other random mensy things (at least in my experience).

The reason I think this is true is the youth are much more adventurous and aesthetic about their hair (and actually care what they look like) and so barbers catering to that group tend to be far better and creative about giving haircuts that actually look good and at the same time don't quite have the money to blow $50+ on a haircut (or whatever passes as high end in your area).

That strange confluence of factors leads to a weird situation where I would actually love to go to a high end place and overpay just so I can have a fixed appointment, in practice to get a good haircut I go to a cheap place and then just give stupidly high tip as recompense. The downside is you end up wasting half a day waiting around for your appointment with a bunch of punk *** kids who need to get off my lawn ;)

Avi
 
I found a barber in my area who was skilled in the styles I wanted via Instagram. He charged $50. When he put his price up to $70, I stopped cutting my hair.
 
Mostly, Id say its trial and error. I tried a few barber shops before I found one and found a barber that I liked. I ended up going to a real, oldschool barber shop; not a mens' salon, which is what many of them are.
I looked up what the oldest barber shop in my city was, looked at their list of barbers, picked one that kind of jumped out at me and shes great. It certainly doesnt hurt that shes quite attractive but if she were attractive and a mediocre barber, I wouldnt go to her.
Before I go to where I go now, I went to one of those Sportclips style mens' salons where they hire young, attractive women to cut your hair and they have all the sports memrobilia on the wall and it was OK. The girls were all very pretty and were great at conversation but the cuts werent all that good. I could give myself a hair cut that was pretty comparable to what they could do and I often would have to touch it up in a couple spots after a day or 2. They would often miss a few stray hairs here and there, especially behind my ears. I had one girl this one time who missed a strip down the middle of the top of my head that popped up the next day when I washed my hair. She seemed pretty new though and made the mistake of not running her hand through my hair against the grain. It was a novice mistake but I think that those places hire a lot of girls who are more cosmetologists than they are actual barbers. There is a difference.
In terms of price, I personally wont pay more than $30 for a haircut and I dont think its worth more than that. Theres a few places here in the city where I live that charge $50+ for a haircut and I just cant see that. Now, if you live on the west coast, I could maybe see it because the cost of living in higher but here in Ohio? No way. The lady who cuts my hair charges $15 and IMO thats very reasonable.
 
I think a lot of the guys here want or prefer functional boxy haircuts that don’t take long to style. Maybe that’s so it leaves more time for shaving, I don’t know. Anyway, there’s no point paying top dollar for those styles, because a respectable result can be achieved on the cheap.
 
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