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How much epoxy?

Will be re-knotting my Culmak 30 brush soon. Have a few glue questions.

Is it better to use less epoxy and avoid it squirting up the sides? Or is more better?

Is it better to apply a thin layer on the inside verticals? Or just a "puddle" in the bottom?

I'm inclining towards clear epoxy...just in case there are any spills.
Any fellow Brits used Unibond Repair, Power Epoxy (Plastic)? Looks like my best option from B&Q.
 
I apply epoxy to the side and lay in a pool that I estimate to fill any voids around the knot base and ease up the sides.

I slowly insert the knot watching carefully....if I don't see a very thin excess of epoxy squeeze out when the knot hits bottom I add more. If I see too much I remove some.

Excess epoxy can be removed from the handle (but not the hair) with a very lightly moistened, with rubbing alcohol, cotton swap. Do not use too much alcohol on the swab as if it got into the knot base it weakens the epoxy bond.

Clear epoxy is the best approach in my view. I prefer slow set epoxy (24hr) to allow me plenty of time to place the knot properly. 5min epoxy just does not give me enough time to comfortably work.
 
Excess epoxy can be removed from the handle (but not the hair) with a very lightly moistened, with rubbing alcohol, cotton swap. Do not use too much alcohol on the swab as if it got into the knot base it weakens the epoxy bond.

I've tried removing Devcon 5 min, waterproof epoxy using rubbing alcohol with no effect. What epoxy do you use and how long do you rub? I'd love to remove the Devcon from an Ever-Ready 150 handle I have.

Thanks.

jim
 

Rudy Vey

Shaving baby skin and turkey necks
I've tried removing Devcon 5 min, waterproof epoxy using rubbing alcohol with no effect. What epoxy do you use and how long do you rub? I'd love to remove the Devcon from an Ever-Ready 150 handle I have.

Thanks.

jim

If it is dried its hard to remove with alcohol. If you can, try to buff it away with a white diamond loaded buffing wheel.
 
I wrap the hair with masking tape to the line where it goes in to the socket.
I also rough up the plug with sandpaper to give a better surface for the epoxy to grip.
 
For the ones I've done, my thinking was to get the epoxy all the way up to prevent water from collecting in the brush growing nasties. ) I used clear, quick drying (7 mins., I think) epoxy I got at w-mart. Overflow was just wiped off. The only thing I didn't expect was that the brush will wick up (about 1 mm) some of the epoxy. If you click on the brush link below my signature and look at the brush on the left, you will see what I'm talking about.
 
I apply the epoxy to the bottom and the sides of the knot. The downside to that approach is that you risk getting some on the handle, which is impossible to remove.

While I've never restored a brush yet, couldn't you mask off the handle prior to applying the epoxy as a safety measure?
 
While I've never restored a brush yet, couldn't you mask off the handle prior to applying the epoxy as a safety measure?

Yes, that would work. I do that while drilling and grinding out the old knot and glue to prevent damage to the handle. I didn't do it while gluing in the knot because I thought the epoxy would come easily with rubbing alcohol. :sad:
 
I just put a 20mm best knot from Golden Nib in a 30+ year old Rooney handle and a 22mm boar in a Muhle Pinsel handle. I fit them both tight and decided to make them interchangable--- down the road maybe pull one out and put in another knot. So no epoxy ! ? So far so good-- it's in pretty tight and I hold the knot with my fingers when I shake it out . I like the best knot but am going to get a boar and a finest for the Rooney and a best for the MP and change at will ! We'll see ..........
 
Could you fill the handle with water, then test-fit the knot, remove the knot and measure the water remaining in the handle to get an idea of how much epoxy to use?

I once re-attached a VDH boar brush handle with silicon adhesive and the darn thing lasted a year. After that, the hair came out in big clumps.
 
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