How hard is it to clean up a corroded Gillette New OC?
- Thread starter Nidan
- Start date
I've done over a dozen at this point, and it really depends on the condition that you receive the razor in. Some simply need a cleaning, others stripping of lacquer and many a buffing of the top cap.
Here is my process in order:
1. Strip the lacquer with oven cleaner (Easy-Off Heavy Duty).
2. Numerous trips through the ultrasonic cleaner (soaking in Dawn and hot water will suffice).
3. Removal of gold plating as needed with Mother's Mag polish (many other metal polishes work as well)
4. A final cleaning in Scrubbing Bubbles green label to shine things up and remove oxidization
5. Lubrication of threads on top cap with oil or grease/Vaseline
6. A final buff with a cotton pad or microfiber cloth
This is my process for the most worn acquisitions I have encountered. Many simply need lacquer removal and the gold plate looks great! Top caps often need a full stripping and polishing as they tend to be the first area to wear. Remove the stubborn areas of lacquer on the cap threads and other areas with a toothpick later in the process as heat and soaking loosens it up enough to chip right off.
If the razor has lacquer worth keeping I simply brush down with Dawn, then Scrubbing Bubbles and then finish with a guitar polish safe for nitro lacquer finishes. This shines things right up and keeps collector value intact.
Keep in mind that these razors are "gold-washed" and the plating is extremely thin and fragile. It will wear quickly once the lacquer is removed and scratch if polished with anything other than clean cotton balls and the like. In my mind it is the half way point to a replate and will give me many years on enjoyment after some elbow grease!
Here is my process in order:
1. Strip the lacquer with oven cleaner (Easy-Off Heavy Duty).
2. Numerous trips through the ultrasonic cleaner (soaking in Dawn and hot water will suffice).
3. Removal of gold plating as needed with Mother's Mag polish (many other metal polishes work as well)
4. A final cleaning in Scrubbing Bubbles green label to shine things up and remove oxidization
5. Lubrication of threads on top cap with oil or grease/Vaseline
6. A final buff with a cotton pad or microfiber cloth
This is my process for the most worn acquisitions I have encountered. Many simply need lacquer removal and the gold plate looks great! Top caps often need a full stripping and polishing as they tend to be the first area to wear. Remove the stubborn areas of lacquer on the cap threads and other areas with a toothpick later in the process as heat and soaking loosens it up enough to chip right off.
If the razor has lacquer worth keeping I simply brush down with Dawn, then Scrubbing Bubbles and then finish with a guitar polish safe for nitro lacquer finishes. This shines things right up and keeps collector value intact.
Keep in mind that these razors are "gold-washed" and the plating is extremely thin and fragile. It will wear quickly once the lacquer is removed and scratch if polished with anything other than clean cotton balls and the like. In my mind it is the half way point to a replate and will give me many years on enjoyment after some elbow grease!
- Thread starter
- #3
Ok cool--I can manage the above and I happen to have an ultrasonic cleaner. I'm thinking maybe just a couple of runs through the ultra sonic with 50/50 Simple Green/water might accomplish a lot of the above. Or--it might strip too much away... What do you think? @MikeTbass?
The ultrasonic cleaner will not fully strip away lacquer but it will damage and float some of it off, so for me it's a keep all/none proposition. My gold razors with lacquer intact have never been run in an ultrasonic cleaner, submerged in hot water for extended periods etc. If you decide that the razor is US cleaner worthy I have just been running blue Dawn soap and warm water. Simple Green is one of my favorite cleaning products available but I have gotten all the desired results with Dawn so I have never tried anything else.
- Thread starter
- #5
- Thread starter
- #6
- Thread starter
- #7
You can soak it for awhile in any liquid soap, such as dish detergent. I used Dr. Bronner's peppermint castile soap, which is good for cleaning modern razors. Then clean what you can with a toothbrush and toothpick.
For a razor with corrosion like this, I would use Bar Keeper's Friend scouring powder, available at the supermarket. You can apply it directly and then scrub with a toothbrush, or just apply with the toothbrush. You can also use some thread or string to floss between the teeth.
Don't let it sit too long; this works fast. I dip it in the detergent periodically as I clean. Rinse thoroughly, perhaps with some soap, when done. When you are all done, you can apply a dab of petroleum jelly to the post threads.
Put a blade in, tighten the handle, but never excessively, and inspect the head/blade/teeth alignment with a magnifying glass. Does the gap look reasonably even? Does one side look more even than the other? You can also use a M5 nylon washer with the post to keep the inside of the handle dry.
Some people like to sterilize a used razor with alcohol. But at this point, what could be left? Let it dry thoroughly before use.
I think this should be enough to make the razor useable and reasonably attractive. It worked for me on a similar razor, and now it looks nice, but still nice and old. If you want to improve the appearance more, I gather there are other things you can do.
Note to anyone buying really old, dirty razors on eBay: Be careful opening them. They can be very dusty, if not cleaned by the seller. You might even want to do it outside. There might also be a dust mite problem. I froze the case to try to kill anything, but you could also try moderate heat and sunshine, or a UV sterilizer. Think about it: Some of these cases may have been sitting closed in a barn for 50 years. So be careful.
Perhaps post a picture of the finished product for us.
Enjoy you new old razor!
For a razor with corrosion like this, I would use Bar Keeper's Friend scouring powder, available at the supermarket. You can apply it directly and then scrub with a toothbrush, or just apply with the toothbrush. You can also use some thread or string to floss between the teeth.
Don't let it sit too long; this works fast. I dip it in the detergent periodically as I clean. Rinse thoroughly, perhaps with some soap, when done. When you are all done, you can apply a dab of petroleum jelly to the post threads.
Put a blade in, tighten the handle, but never excessively, and inspect the head/blade/teeth alignment with a magnifying glass. Does the gap look reasonably even? Does one side look more even than the other? You can also use a M5 nylon washer with the post to keep the inside of the handle dry.
Some people like to sterilize a used razor with alcohol. But at this point, what could be left? Let it dry thoroughly before use.
I think this should be enough to make the razor useable and reasonably attractive. It worked for me on a similar razor, and now it looks nice, but still nice and old. If you want to improve the appearance more, I gather there are other things you can do.
Note to anyone buying really old, dirty razors on eBay: Be careful opening them. They can be very dusty, if not cleaned by the seller. You might even want to do it outside. There might also be a dust mite problem. I froze the case to try to kill anything, but you could also try moderate heat and sunshine, or a UV sterilizer. Think about it: Some of these cases may have been sitting closed in a barn for 50 years. So be careful.
Perhaps post a picture of the finished product for us.
Enjoy you new old razor!
My first DE purchase was a gold New SC which looked similar to this one. No much lacquer to worry about. I did the Dawn clean up with a finger nail brush and it looked pretty good. The gold was gone on the head leaving a nice copper finish. I polished it by hand with Flitz and a microfiber cloth and it looked better. After gaining some experience with this hobby, I took this razor to the bench and poished it again with Flitz but used a Dremel with a cloth wheel. It looked even better so I did it again. I like the vintage look and will continue to polish it from time to time as the copper will need it.
Attachments
- Thread starter
- #10
Looks pretty decent really, I've cleaned up much worse! I'd strip the lacquer first and hit it with some scrubbing bubbles and see what I had. You are missing plating on the top cap around the edges, in the knurling on the handle and in the teeth of the baseplate. The baseplates consistently retain the most gold plating as it is a low wear area unlike the cap and handle, so I wouldn't be too concerned about the areas you can't see.
With that said you are going to have to decide if a well worn but shiny gold in places look is for you. I can roughly visualize how this would turn out with the lacquer and oxidization removed and would likely leave it at that. When I do my clean ups my goal is always to remove as little material as possible so as not to change the geometry or feel. Anything abrasive you use is removing material be it metal polish or BKP. If you decide to polish anything start with just the top cap using a cotton ball and some metal polish.
No matter what you do my recommended first step is to strip the lacquer. Give it a cursory scrub with a toothbrush and soap if you like but a dousing in Easy-Off is going to get you quick results without changing the plating condition or removing any brass material. Even if you decide to take it down to bare metal later this step will save you hours of labor scrubbing lacquer and give a better end result as it will not change the geometry at all.
With that said you are going to have to decide if a well worn but shiny gold in places look is for you. I can roughly visualize how this would turn out with the lacquer and oxidization removed and would likely leave it at that. When I do my clean ups my goal is always to remove as little material as possible so as not to change the geometry or feel. Anything abrasive you use is removing material be it metal polish or BKP. If you decide to polish anything start with just the top cap using a cotton ball and some metal polish.
No matter what you do my recommended first step is to strip the lacquer. Give it a cursory scrub with a toothbrush and soap if you like but a dousing in Easy-Off is going to get you quick results without changing the plating condition or removing any brass material. Even if you decide to take it down to bare metal later this step will save you hours of labor scrubbing lacquer and give a better end result as it will not change the geometry at all.
- Thread starter
- #12
The others may know more than I do on this.
However, I used this technique on a LC a lot like yours, and other Old and New Types. What gold there was remained just fine, and there was a fair amount on the base plate, as well as some top caps.
As to abrasiveness, these heavily used old razors have seen a lot worse, and generally have scratch marks. I looked at it with a magnifying glass and didn't see anything that looked like marks from the scouring powder, which is very fine. If you have a smooth, shiny finish, this might not be the way to go. So I would never use it on a near mint razor.
If you want to minimize abrasion, apply it as a paste, let it sit 15-30 seconds, and remove with a brush or paper towel.
My guess is the teeth get the most wear, and that's where the most corrosion is on your razor. So you may need to use it there.
If you want to test Bar Keepers and other options, find some old Lincoln Memorial pennies and try the various methods.
If you have an dirty Old Type, you can test it on the ball end.
What method you would want to use would depend on the condition and value of the razor, and what your goal was. As I mentioned, I have one much like yours that was never going up for sale, just for my use. I just wanted it to look nice and be clean and sanitary for my use. Bar Keeper did the job.
However, I used this technique on a LC a lot like yours, and other Old and New Types. What gold there was remained just fine, and there was a fair amount on the base plate, as well as some top caps.
As to abrasiveness, these heavily used old razors have seen a lot worse, and generally have scratch marks. I looked at it with a magnifying glass and didn't see anything that looked like marks from the scouring powder, which is very fine. If you have a smooth, shiny finish, this might not be the way to go. So I would never use it on a near mint razor.
If you want to minimize abrasion, apply it as a paste, let it sit 15-30 seconds, and remove with a brush or paper towel.
My guess is the teeth get the most wear, and that's where the most corrosion is on your razor. So you may need to use it there.
If you want to test Bar Keepers and other options, find some old Lincoln Memorial pennies and try the various methods.
If you have an dirty Old Type, you can test it on the ball end.
What method you would want to use would depend on the condition and value of the razor, and what your goal was. As I mentioned, I have one much like yours that was never going up for sale, just for my use. I just wanted it to look nice and be clean and sanitary for my use. Bar Keeper did the job.
It's not copper, it's brass.
Brass is an alloy made primarily of copper and zinc. The proportions of the copper and zinc are varied to yield many different kinds of brass. Basic modern brass is 67% copper and 33% zinc. However, the amount of copper may range from 55% to 95% by weight, with the amount of zinc varying from 5% to 45%.
Aware. Just saying that most classic gillette razors are known to be made of brass rather than pure copper. There are pure copper razors, but vintage gillettes are not among them.
- Thread starter
- #17
Received the razor yesterday. Gave it a 10 minute bath in the ultra sonic cleaner, with hot water and Dawn. The lacquer seems fairly intact so I think I'll just use it as is to see how much I like it. If I really love it I may send it Restored Razors, but sending it to NZ from the USA seems like a bit extravagant, plus shipping 2 ways will probably take a while.
Looks pretty darn good. I vote "use as is". That said, I have a rhodium plated New SC that I love to use. Smooth operator and super shiny. The SC doesn't look authentic with that finish, though.
Ahh, "copper" is a color as well as a material or constituent of an alloy.
Some of my no-longer-lacquered/goldwashed Gillettes display a red/coppery hue, others maintain a brassy look. And some are trying to turn green. I suppose Gillette used different brass alloys over their long run of gold washed brass razors.
My 'copper' PAA Ascension razor is a copper/silver alloy, with perhaps other constituents as well. Staying shiny so far! A pure copper razor would patinate pretty darn fast.
What brand of guitar polish would you recommend?
I've always liked the Martin brand of polish, Gibson works well too. Truth be told I've been using the Novus range of plastic polishes on my instruments for many years now - Novus no. 1 is the best polish I have found.
And yes, I have used it on my lacquer Gillette razors!
Similar threads
