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How do you pass - what's your technique?

1 with the grain (N to S)
1 against the grain (S to N)
Touch up under the chin

This gets me a DFS practically100% of the time. I quit chasing a BBS years ago.
 
I generally do 2 or three passes. My whiskers mostly grow at a left to right downward bias. So the first pass is north to south, basically WTG. Second pass is right to left (mostly, the neck is kind of a hybrid since I'm using a straight). I can stop here and be DFS usually. Third south to north pass is largely pro forma but usually catches a few spots that aren't quite as close.

I've also tried doing the second pass south to north and the third right to left. It doesn't make a huge difference except that it is a little harsher on my chin. Which is also the most sensitive part of my face. So if I'm shaving my chin the last pass will be south to north.
 
Thanks everyone for the responses and discussion, sounds like there is a lot of variation on how to shave one's face (weird eh?!?). Seems like the intended outcome is a good comfortable irritation-free shave, and seems like 2-3 passes is typical. Interesting to read the variations on how each person approaches it while wanting the same intended outcome.


WTG
XTG
ATG, except for upper lip, which is XTG with blade buffing.

But what constitutes a pass? I try to shave each patch of skin only once. If the blade angle is correct I don't see what additional swipes with the same angle in the same direction will do little to nothing.

I have seen videos where it looks like the shaver is blade buffing his whole face. If I did that for three passes my skin would be a basket case.

That's a great point actually, I was just thinking a pass was going over an area or minor buffing until you re-apply lather and go in another direction. Some shavers buff a million times and do one pass, while others only shave an area once.


I have a weird technique which works for me. There are areas of my face I totally avoid on my first pass. I do one solid pass on these areas in my second run. This includes the areas around and above my chin and portions of my neck.

I am prone to in growns there and I have had better luck attacking these areas once. Call me crazy. But it works for me.

I generally only do WTG and XTG.

Interesting that you avoid some areas on your first pass. I typically avoid areas on the later passes, but avoiding earlier on makes sense. Just thought it was different to my approach but both work!
 
Thanks everyone for the responses and discussion, sounds like there is a lot of variation on how to shave one's face (weird eh?!?). Seems like the intended outcome is a good comfortable irritation-free shave, and seems like 2-3 passes is typical. Interesting to read the variations on how each person approaches it while wanting the same intended outcome.




That's a great point actually, I was just thinking a pass was going over an area or minor buffing until you re-apply lather and go in another direction. Some shavers buff a million times and do one pass, while others only shave an area once.




Interesting that you avoid some areas on your first pass. I typically avoid areas on the later passes, but avoiding earlier on makes sense. Just thought it was different to my approach but both work!

I just try to make one confident pass down the handlebar area of my face. I apply pressure in this area to get a clean swipe. I think some indecisive shaving has led to ingrowns there.

Letting the lather on the first pass work some extra magic by way of hydration/softening, then reapplying the second lather (which is always better for me, anyway) seems to just do the trick. Or it could all be in my head. Either way, I’ve cut down ingrowns there about 95%.
 

ajkel64

Check Out Chick
Staff member
When using a DE razor I do three passes, WTG, then XTG (ear to nose) and then ATG. When using a cartridge razor I just do 2 passes WTG and ATG until the shaves start to diminish and then I do 3 passes the same as a DE.
 
Ultra traditional here. Three passes, WTG, XTG, and ATG.
I think traditionally most men did not do multiple passes

I’m more and more a one-and-done guy. At most I do some touch ups ATG on my resistance areas. My beard grows in multiple directions, so most of my pass is XTG (face and upper neck) and WTG (lower neck, sideburns, chin)

I can get a DFS like this even with what most consider mild razors like the Gillette Tech or the Henson.

I have developed my technique over the years to minimize the number of passes and irritation, while still getting pretty decent results.
 
In simplified terms here is my technique.

First pass. WTG in all areas
Second pass. XTG on my neck, chin and moustache areas
Third pass. ATG on my neck and cheeks and sideburn areas.

Works rather well whether I am using my Mach3 or Beautytrack razor (which gives better results).

Jason.
 
I go a different number of passes in different areas. Less on the neck more on the face.

The first pass is WTG whatever that direction happens to be. The direction of grows sweeps and changes. It’s not as easy as just saying N-S. Some it, some isn’t. It’s taken a while to work it out.

If I have time and want BBS it’s 2.5 passes with an ATG touch up pass. I do this most days. If time is tight, 2 passes will get me a DFS.
 

OkieStubble

Dirty Donuts are so Good.
1st Pass: With the grain on face & neck.

2nd Pass: Against the grain on neck & chin, and across the grain on face.

Finish with rubbing fingers on face and neck to feel for any small missed rough patches and cleaning them up with some light strokes.
 
I do the 3 pass with a little touch up - WTG, XTG and ATG. I use really light strokes on the ATG pass and try not to overdo them on my neck as that tends to cause irritation.

Lately, I have been having really good luck with my Weber razor using the long handle with a fairly smooth and irritation-free result ATG.
 
If I do my optimal, for my skin, 2 days in between shaves I will usually do 3 passes of W/X/ATG, all without issue. If I push my skin and only take a day off I will usually only do WTG and XTG. I never go ATG on my mustache though. Not because I can't, but because I flat out don't like how it feels. I get good enough for me going WTG and XTG. The ATG pass on my stache isn't worth the uncomfortable feeling.
 
I often see shavers mention with the grain (WTG), across the grain (XTG), and against the grain (ATG) passes. Two to four passes in a shave seems to be the typical range. I was thinking this could be an interesting topic to capture what others are doing.

I typically do three passes, a WTG, then two XTG passes. I hardly ever go ATG, I have found for me that the smooth-feeling that only lasts several hours isn't worth the risk of getting irritation or ingrown hairs that last much longer than the smooth feeling. I've found that ATG is just not comfortable for me during or after the shave, so I have come to enjoy a damn fine shave instead of BBS.

The WTG pass is fairly straightforward, generally north to south, except for the bottom inch or so of my neckline that is south to north. For my second pass, I do a XTG pass that is from the ears to the mouth direction on the cheeks, and then about 30-40 degrees from WTG direction going from the ears to the Adam's apple. For the third pass I do another XTG pass, sometimes ears-chin or chin-ears direction on my cheeks, then from the chin down away from my Adam's apple. I typically do one or two touch ups at the end of the shave now.

So what's your technique for passes per shave?
Mantic's YT tutorials were the "game changer" for me:

> Gillette slide
> Blade buffing
> J-hooking

Without learning those, no amount of passes would ever suffice for me... I'd still have rough spots and no BBS.

Master the above and never mind the conventional wisdom.
 

Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
1st pass- WTG
2nd pass- ATG
3rd pass-(pickups) I like to apply lather at jaw line and below. Then take left my hand and rub against the grain to raise the tiny stubble in my trouble spots with the lather and slightly skin tension for the razor to do the finishing touches and results are very good. Less passes less irritation & weepers, I'm lucky I can go ATG with not to many issues(money pass as the Stallion<Anthony Esposito :laugh: > calls it.)
For a while I was doing WTG + XTG + ATG + pickups and I noticed more irritation and stopped that and went back to just 2 pass and pickups.(not over shaving is my conclusion), and end results where more comfort and closer shaves IMO.
If a person wants to cheat a little to get a closer BBS feel shave just add a little balm(CeraVe moisturizer or Nivea balm) and it will hydrate the skin to bury most of any remaining tiny stubble and after a 1 hr from your shave you will have a nice smooth feel. CeraVe works really well because it incorporates Hyaluronic acid+3 essential Ceramides like a lot of high end moisturizers have and is mostly scentless(it works well & affordable IMO + use it for winter time dryness).
 
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I do 4 passes using a mild razor. A 3-pass shave needs a lot of touch-up and that takes longer than the extra pass does, for me. I use a light touch and a short brush-like stroke.

Everybody has to find out what works best for them. Beards and faces are all very different.
 
Mantic's YT tutorials were the "game changer" for me:

> Gillette slide
> Blade buffing
> J-hooking

Without learning those, no amount of passes would ever suffice for me... I'd still have rough spots and no BBS.

Master the above and never mind the conventional wisdom.

Gillette slide, I like your style. I use a J-hook occasionally, but I just never think of the slide!
 
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