How do I get the hair on the edges of the knot out safely?

[insomniac]

Or, out at all...

So I'm working on two brushes, and basically have all the hair in the center of the knot out. The remainder is relatively close to the handle - not just "on the outside of the knot" but low as well.

I used a dremel to "probe" one of them and hit paydirt, i.e. I know how deep the knot goes. But it seems like I have to remove the remaining hair and the knot without damaging the handle... and I'm not sure how with the tools I have available: standard box o' tools and an inexpensive dremel.

 

[Pjotr]

A long nosed plier? Or a bit of rough sand paper taped to the end of something with a smaller diameter than the aperture you're working in (pencil?). Just go slow.

 

[Bestarrkin]

I suggest you use lemon cologne to fill the hole. After cologne have vaporised the bristles dried and loosened to pull out easily by plier.

 

[Pjotr]

That's it. Chemistry!

 

[LarryAndro]

I use a Dremel with a flat router bit. (Flat and grooved on the side of the bit.) I put the bit into the hole, and it takes out the hair and glue quite effectively.

If you use this method, be sure to keep the top of the router bit below the edge of the handle. Sometimes, the bit jumps or does unexpected things. If it is below the edge, that won't cause problems.

After routing the knot BELOW the edge totally away, a very small amount will still cling to the top edge. Typically, you can simply push it loose with light pressure from a finger.

 

[Hex]

That's it. Chemistry!

+1

I knew I was doing this all wrong. I will have to try that.

I usually use a Dremel with the sanding drum.

 

[Snargle]

I use a Dremel with a flat router bit. (Flat and grooved on the side of the bit.) I put the bit into the hole, and it takes out the hair and glue quite effectively.

If you use this method, be sure to keep the top of the router bit below the edge of the handle. Sometimes, the bit jumps or does unexpected things. If it is below the edge, that won't cause problems.

After routing the knot BELOW the edge totally away, a very small amount will still cling to the top edge. Typically, you can simply push it loose with light pressure from a finger.

+1 The Dremel flat router bit works quite well if used carefully and with a delicate touch. If there's anything left, it usually can be chipped off with a pocket knife or other small tool. I've never found it loose enough to yield to finger pressure, but YMMV.

 

[JeffE]

You really only need two Dremel attachments -- a Dremel drill bit and a Dremel sanding drum.

Use the drill bit to start in the center and keep opening up the hole wider, like what you've already done. THEN put the sanding drum on and use it to take out the rest of the old knot, right up to the inner edge of the handle.

 

[Stumpy]

How about a pipe reamer? I have a nice German one that can be adjusted by turning the knob on top to remove a little more with each turn. Has anyone tried that?

On the subject of pipe restoration tools, what about pipe stem polish? It is a very gentle abrasive that removes oxidation and sulpher build up from pipe stems. When rubbed on with a soft cloth it produces a mirror shine.

 

[Stumpy]

I suggest you use lemon cologne to fill the hole. After cologne have vaporised the bristles dried and loosened to pull out easily by plier.

What sort of lemon cologne? Are there any American importers? Would isopropyl or methyl alcohol work as well, without harming old Bakelite or Catalin?

 

[FL shaver]

+1

I knew I was doing this all wrong. I will have to try that.

I usually use a Dremel with the sanding drum.

I also used a sanding drum on my only repair. Too easy.

 

[Bestarrkin]

What sort of lemon cologne? Are there any American importers? Would isopropyl or methyl alcohol work as well, without harming old Bakelite or Catalin?

You should not use pure alcohol. It is harmful. I said lemon cologne(or other cologne which is cheap) because it is not harmful to your skin and your handle.

 

[CharlieTN]

I put one of those plunge bits used to cut sheetrock from a dremel tool or more specifically a rotozip into my drill press then moved the brush handle around gently to get the edge hairs out. Worked great and gave me really good control.

I had to open up the handle a decent bit so I did the same thing with a sandring drum for my dremel mounted in the drill press.

The biggest trick I found is to step the speed down slightly. Kept me from making irreversable mistakes but still did the job.

Charlie

 

[Pjotr]

I used a bit of sandpaper taped to the end of a pencil and then a thicker pen etc until all the rubbish was sanded out. You really don't need electrical tools.

 

[Stumpy]

You should not use pure alcohol. It is harmful. I said lemon cologne(or other cologne which is cheap) because it is not harmful to your skin and your handle.

Thanks for the warning. What is the name of the cologne that you use on your brush handles? I want to make sure I get the right stuff. How about Florida Water cologne, it is cheap and removing old bristles from brush handles is the best use I can think of for it. I doubt if it lasts longer than 5 minutes on me.

 

[Stumpy]

This is the pipe reamer I mentioned earlier. It puts a glass like finish on the cake inside my old Dunhills.

 

[Bestarrkin]

Thanks for the warning. What is the name of the cologne that you use on your brush handles? I want to make sure I get the right stuff. How about Florida Water cologne, it is cheap and removing old bristles from brush handles is the best use I can think of for it. I doubt if it lasts longer than 5 minutes on me.

Well we have colognes in pharmacies and I don't know a particular name. But it has "%80 etyl alcohol" not metyl one. I hope this helps.