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How do I deal with skin irritation above the corners of my mouth, ATG pass?

I have 6 or 8 DE safety razors (don't want to count too carefully, could be 8 or ten) and I seem to be having this problem to a greater or lesser degree no matter which razor I use. The problem area is above the corners of my mouth in the moustache area. I do the first pass, north to south, no problem. This is kind of across the grain for me. I do the second pass from the middle under my nose to the outside, with the grain, on both sides, no problem. Here’s the problem: I try to shave from each corner of my mouth, horizontally and inward on both sides, and this is the “against the grain” pass for me, and this is where I get irritation, nicks, redness and soreness. But I would sure like to be able to make this third pass to get a smooth shave above my lip. Today, I was reduced to touching up with an electric razor in the problem areas. This was helpful, but distasteful. I want to use my fine DE razors, dammit! Any suggestions or input is gratefully appreciated, and thank you.
 
You might hate this answer but try to have an open mind:

Use a double blade cartridge like BIC. It makes a fantastic finishing tool and will take care of those stubborn spots with ease, after taking it all down with the razor of your choice. Try it and you won't regret it. Best of luck.
 
You might hate this answer but try to have an open mind:

Use a double blade cartridge like BIC. It makes a fantastic finishing tool and will take care of those stubborn spots with ease, after taking it all down with the razor of your choice. Try it and you won't regret it. Best of luck.
I don't do ATG passes at all, it just irritates my skin. I'd do a South to North pass and call it a day.
Thanks, I will try that. Sounds promising.
 
Are you doing any skin stretching or "puffing" in that area? I battle this sometimes as well, although less so these days. I find teeth and gums provide less direct contact and support in that area and extra assistance with stretching and or puffing can help provide a flatter and safer surface to shave.
 
You might hate this answer but try to have an open mind:

Use a double blade cartridge like BIC. It makes a fantastic finishing tool and will take care of those stubborn spots with ease, after taking it all down with the razor of your choice. Try it and you won't regret it. Best of luck.
I'm going to try that, thanks for the input.
 

Eben Stone

Staff member
The razor should glide smoothly over the skin with zero perceptible tuggniess of the skin. If its tugging the skin, then most likely: you're using too much pressure, you're not stretching the skin enough, your soap isn't slick enough, the blade isn't sharp enough.

Also try using the razor at different angles.

All that being said, IMO, it will be an uphill climb for you if your razor doesn't have a rigid design.
 
The razor should glide smoothly over the skin with zero perceptible tuggniess of the skin. If its tugging the skin, then most likely: you're using too much pressure, you're not stretching the skin enough, your soap isn't slick enough, the blade isn't sharp enough.

Also try using the razor at different angles.

All that being said, IMO, it will be an uphill climb for you if your razor doesn't have a rigid design.
Thanks, I have two Henson Milds, the Winning razor and the Merica razor, and I think all of those are pretty rigid in design. I will pay attention to the points you mentioned.
 
I have 6 or 8 DE safety razors (don't want to count too carefully, could be 8 or ten) and I seem to be having this problem to a greater or lesser degree no matter which razor I use. The problem area is above the corners of my mouth in the moustache area. I do the first pass, north to south, no problem. This is kind of across the grain for me. I do the second pass from the middle under my nose to the outside, with the grain, on both sides, no problem. Here’s the problem: I try to shave from each corner of my mouth, horizontally and inward on both sides, and this is the “against the grain” pass for me, and this is where I get irritation, nicks, redness and soreness. But I would sure like to be able to make this third pass to get a smooth shave above my lip. Today, I was reduced to touching up with an electric razor in the problem areas. This was helpful, but distasteful. I want to use my fine DE razors, dammit! Any suggestions or input is gratefully appreciated, and thank you.
I've had this problem my whole life but I have to clean that area up otherwise it would drive me nuts. I just go VERY lightly with a lot of slick lather to touch up the corners. But you know what, many times I'll just call it and quit with the safety razor and go to my Norelco. I have the best success with a ball end Tech or my Feather AS-D2. I get your frustration at having to rely on an electric from time to time but it's better to know when to call it done with your DE razor. I've been doing this for over 50 years and the same trouble spots have been the same my whole shaving life.

Added because I wrote this before reading the other posts. I agree that a good twin blade disposable or cart can also work quite well on trouble spots. I keep a bag of them in my cabinet to catch strays as well. I actually hate these damn Norelcos but I've had one for decades because I never found a foil razor to be any better for me.
 
Here's a few suggestions. Good lather is a must for all these, but keep it thin and slick so it's semi-transparent. First, try to get the bulk of the whiskers cut down before going ATG. Longer whiskers don't cut as smoothly going ATG. Second, you can try not going directly ATG. Instead, do multiple passes in more diagonal directions, avoid the head-on pass. Third, skin stretching. Make sure there is a smooth surface and the skin is taut in this area. You can yawn or make funny faces, for example. Fourth, use your mildest razor in a riding-the-cap position.
 
...Any suggestions or input is gratefully appreciated, and thank you.
In my opinion, your problem is related to poor lather. It could be lack of residual slickness and that is a factor if you shave with multiple consecutive strokes over the same area, but also could be lack of cushioning, that is a factor if you use a lather too wet/thin or just a poor quality soap/cream.
We only know so far that you are using a DE razor and not much else.
Here is my advice: give your skin a couple of days to heal. Start again with a mild/medium aggressive razor (if you have one) and an average blade. Pay attention at the quality of the lather since it is paramount for a good shave. I believe most of problems come from lousy lather and to a lesser extent from blade.
Good luck.
 
I have the best success with a ball end Tech or my Feather AS-D2.
Yes, absolutely. I find the Feather AS-D2 with a sharp blade (e.g., BIC Chrome) to be exceptional for shaving ATG around my top lip without nicks or irritation.

Another good razor for this is my ES Claymore Evo. Both are mild razors with excellent blade support. I find them both too mild for under my jaw and on my neck, though.

I find the Gillette Techs to be slightly more aggressive and therefore better all-round razors.
 

Phoenixkh

I shaved a fortune
I might be the odd person here, but I don't ride the cap.... ever. I find that a gentle touch with a steep angle works great around the corners of my mouth. I have a couple whiskers that curl under there. They have always been annoying in years past with my Fusion Power's trim blade. But with my Claymore Evo, like Happy Jack said, and with my British/England Flat Bottom Tech, they both catch those whiskers without incident.

I doubt there is one correct way to approach shaving angles, but I started out back in February holding the handle parallel to my face and lifting it up until I felt the blade engage. I had no idea this was considered "steep angle" shaving, it just felt natural to me. It seemed logical to use the safety bar.

However, there are a lot of people here who "ride the cap" as a first choice. I think all of us make sure the blade engages... or we'd all be growing beards. The difference might be the starting place. I haven't been wet shaving long enough to know. It also seems obvious to me that blade angle is razor specific... within a certain range and that some razors have a wider range than others.

So if you start shallow and ride the cap.... lower your razor until the blade engages.... or you start steep and raise the handle until the blade engages, do we all end up close to the same place or do those two styles mean, people end up more shallow all the time and others who start the other way always end up more steep? Asking for a friend. <eg>
 
OP, I know exactly what you're talking about. I struggled with the exact same thing for years. I always had weepers and/or irritation if I wanted a close shave in that area.

A lot of the suggestions are good and spot on. I have done the disposable twin blade thing. It works great, but I personally didn't want to be dependent on those at all. A good foil electric works, but again, I don't want to have to rely on that.

In the last year, I have learned to use my most aggressive razors; an ATT SE2 and a Timeless Bronze .78. I now use those for all my shaving, including that sensitive area around my mouth. The secret? Learning the skill. I put it off for a long time because it didn't occur to me that it was really possible. I have pretty sensitive skin and I just assumed anything more than a mild to medium razor just wasn't for me. That turned out to be not true. I now get the most irritation free and closest shaves of my life. It took a long time, but not nearly as long as the time I spent thinking it wasn't possible. Once I really decided that if people could learn to shave with a straight, I should certainly be able to shave with a very aggressive, blade forward safety razor. That turned out to be true for me.

My suggestion would be to let your skin completely heal to start. A week without ATG, even with a twin disposable. A very slick lather. A very sharp blade. I happen to think a well clamped, rigid design matters, but I'm not 100% positive, and no one can prove it. I figure it cannot possible hurt, so I stick with that. After that it's just your touch and control. I went back and forth between using a twin disposable and my own safety razor until I got a couple of weeper free shaves. Once that happened, I truly knew I could go ATG with enough practice and still end up with a close, irritation free shave.

I have to add this really didn't all come together for me until I ditched the mild and medium razors I was using. I think for me it was like training wheels, and I just didn't "get it" until I stopped using them. That's just me, though. I'm not implying at all that someone won't learn proper technique without using one of the top aggressive animals. Ikon tech, Muhle R41, etc. I don't have to list them all, they've been discussed here on the forum hundreds of time. We all know the top contenders in aggressive, blade forward design.

One last note on the blade. Pick one of the sharpest blades. Those have also been listed here many, many times. Go over to refinedshave.com if you haven't already for some good references. Feather (not my fave), Nacet, Perma-Sharp, to name a few. My opinion, based on my experience, is that when you are going over an area with an extremely light touch, it is more important than ever to use the sharpest blade possible. This keeps it from only partially cutting the whisker, then pulling it as the stroke continues. However, let me emphasize that technique is the most important factor by far. Hands down, no question in my mind.

Finally, when you do give it a go and end up with some irritation or a weeper or two (or both), give it a week to heal before going back at it ATG. Not three or four days, but a week. I spun my wheels for a long time thinking my skin needed a few days, maybe four to heal up before trying something again. It took a medical doctor to explain to me once that if you rub your skin raw, cut it or break the surface in any way that causes any blood to show, it takes a week for it to fully heal. That was another very important step for me to learn how to get consistent, close, irritation free shaves.

That's my two cents. Good luck with whatever tools and techniques you decide to try, and may you find comfortable, close shaves.
 
I somehow missed your post listing the razors. Very nice collection there and of good quality.
Try better lather. What soap/cream are you using? What brush?
Oh, wait, I hope I didn't miss yet another post.:blush:
Today I used Proraso in the white tub, and an inexpensive Omega brush. For the last ATG pass in my problem area, I used a double edge disposable as someone suggested plus Cremo for slickness, and followed up with Lucky Tiger aftershave. I also use Arko, and sometimes Gillette Pro gel, or Aveeno gel, which is actually pretty good. I have some Proraso in a can I like from time to time.
 
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