For those who understand how shaving with a DE works, three passes is the correct way to shave (if one has the time for it). I get that a quick one pass was the way back in the old days where dad was in a rush to get to the office and look presentable but today? Guys in a rush have most likely moved to carts or a rechargeable electric and shave sitting in traffic...
The internet says so. , so people believe it and must do it. Before shave forums it was unheard ofCurious as to the origination of today's recommended three pass DE shave with, across and against the grain? Is anyone familiar with the basis for this? My attempt to research the topic hasn't found any historical basis for this beyond the more recent posts and videos from DE shavers who recommend the approach. Details of my experience and research on the topic are as follows:
I started DE shaving during my college days (After 5 years I went electric returning after decades to DE three years ago) and don't recall any instructions regarding this approach for shaving back then. Basically applied canned foam, shaved and did some touch up for a DFS. Today I achieve a BBS shave with two passes and some touch up. No need for a full third pass.
Research of historical commercial shaving directions hasn't surfaced anything on the three pass shave though there was some discussion of a two passes if an extra close shave was desired. Way back in 1905 a pamphlet on straight razor shaving (link below) stated " If you desire a really clean shave, you must go over the face the second time......In shaving over the face the second time, some reverse the stroke. That is, they shave upward against the growth of the beard, instead of downward, as during the first time over." basically suggesting an optional two pass shave with the first pass with the grain and the second against.
More recent DE shaving instructions from the mid-20th century either recommend one pass with the grain with some against the grain touch up (1961 Gillette Directions link below) or, similar to 1905 a single with the grain pass with an optional " if necessary" second against the grain pass (1963 Gillette British Directions link below). The 1958 directions (link below) only mention a single pass with long diagonal strokes that appear to be a trademark of many Gillette shaving instructions from those days. More recent Gillette instructions from the 1970s & 80s only focus on operation of the razor.
Found an old 2014 thread on B&B (2nd to last link below) where the posts also affirm that a one or two pass shave was pretty standard at the time these instructions were distributed.
I did find one possible source for the three pass shave in an open source professional barbering textbook (last link below) that talks about a three pass shave though interestingly it notes that the third pass is almost never done. The specific text instructions are"
"There are three main types of shaves traditionally practiced in barbershops:
Source: Barbering Techniques for Hairstylists by Arden Magtiza and Gary Franceschini
- The first time over: The standard shave service performed in barbershops today. It is performed using a lather on the beard and by shaving in the direction of the grain. This shave removes all visible hair growth and leaves the skin smooth and without irritation.
- The second time over: This shave is performed immediately after the first time over to create a closer shave by removing any remaining hair. The second time over shave is generally performed on dampened skin with no lather, while working with or across the grain.
- The close shave: A shave that is typically not practiced, unless the client has a particularly challenging beard or growth pattern, in which the first time over and second time over shaves were not enough to adequately remove all of the hair. This shave is performed against the grain, therefore it is not commonly performed as it is more likely to cause irritation, ingrown hairs, and the possibility of infection.
In the detailed instruction section the text notes that "The Second Time Over" shave is only done where needed. It is not a full second pass. So really the recommended professional barber shave is a single pass with touch up.
Back to the original question. Is anyone familiar with how the three pass shave became the recommended approach for DE shavers today? Wondering if there is any real basis for it or if in reality, as noted in the text above, we just need to determine what works best for us given our unique beard characteristics and YMMV.
Post with links to 1905 shaving pamphlet
1905 Shaving Guide: Shaving made easy; what the man who shaves ought to know ... (From Library of Congress)
Stumbled onto this publication from 1905 titled "Shaving made easy; what the man who shaves ought to know ..." that is in the Library of Congress. (Links below) Interesting piece of history that covers all aspects of shaving as known then. Some takeaways: This is pre-DE so it only covers...www.badgerandblade.com
1958 Gillette U.S. Razor Directions:
https://mr-razor.com/Anleitungen/1958 TV Super-Speed.jpg
1961 Gillette U.S. Razor Directions
1963 Gillette British Shaving Directions
The History of Multiple Pass Shaving - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/the-history-of-multiple-pass-shaving.436596/
Barbering Textbook Link
Why yes. I mean, why stop at one or two when you can have three or four!"The" correct way to shave? So those that don't use three passes are doing something incorrectly?
Great example of how the correct way to shave is based on what works best for you. YMMV!
Everyone is 100 % right when it’s their shave, like I said the internet and vendors play a big part. I started shaving in 1971, one pass then feel around for strays. Going to a barber in the mid 1970’s it was one pass across the grain nice close comfortable shave, fast forward to the internet and cool aid and that’s how I remember it.
I did a 7 pass shave a few days ago. Why? Not because I had to but because I could. A few months ago I did an 8 pass shave. I think it was to celebrate my 800th SR shave.
8 Passes, Wow!
