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How Did the Three Pass Shave Originate? One or Two Passes Were Standard Historically.

Curious as to the origination of today's recommended three pass DE shave with, across and against the grain? Is anyone familiar with the basis for this? My attempt to research the topic hasn't found any historical basis for this beyond the more recent posts and videos from DE shavers who recommend the approach. Details of my experience and research on the topic are as follows:
The three-pass shave idea comes from shaving hobbyists. If you go back to older times, most advice was similar to the 1905 pamphlet you cited. To summarize: do a second pass if a particularly close shave is desired, which may be against the grain, but not everyone tolerates ATG without getting some irritation.

Functional shaving is about being presentable. Hobbyists are the ones insisting that they have failed in their task if they don't achieve a BBS-level shave. Getting a BBS with gradual beard reduction leads to the three (or more) pass shave (though maybe you don't need a third pass with some aggressive DE razors like the Muhle R41).
 

Phoenixkh

I shaved a fortune
I certainly remember it was commonly advised not to shave against the grain. I always ignored that, from the time I started shaving in the early ‘80s, since two-pass shaves did not satisfy me and there were no cops in my bathroom to stop me. I have always assumed I was far from the only outlaw in this respect. I think against-the-grain shaving was always discussed as long as I’ve been in this forum (2013) and wasn’t considered unusual by any means.

I have no idea how common shaving against the grain was over time, or how much it has changed, but it does appear now there is a broader acknowledgement at least that many (most?) people shave this way, and that they did not die in the process.
No one taught me to shave... like others, my dad used an electric razor and that's how I started out but I always got razor burn. I started borrowing my mom's razors. She had a Gillette TTO and a Schick injector of some sort.

The first razor I bought for myself was the Trac II... but I always started with a WTG pass and I immediately went over that same path against the grain... no addition shaving cream or goop, when that came out. I could feel the difference that against the grain pass made... and it seemed natural to me. I've had every cartridge razor Gillette has released up the Fusion Power... and there was one after that that I was using until I started "wet shaving" last February, but I forget the name.. the one with the ball.. still a powered handle. But I always went against the grain with all of them.

I didn't know about adding a XTG pass until I saw it on a YouTube video or two... confirmed by B&B... I did three passes for a while but didn't see much difference, so I went back to two with buffing in my problem areas.
 
I consider that I do with-the-grain for the first pass, against-the-grain for the second pass, and against-the-other-grain for the third pass. Against the grain is what I find most satisfying and productive, with the right razor and blade, but the hairs grow in at least two prevailing directions simultaneously on parts of my face. I can do a good two-pass shave if my second pass combines two directions at once, but that isn’t really two passes - it’s two lathers and three passes.

Hair. Why won’t it just grow in straight, parallel lines like Chuck Norris’? Then again, his beard looks boring. On balance it’s probably best to have some arty swooshes and flourishes in a beard, so maybe complicated shaving isn’t such a bad thing.

I also cheat at shaving and do something I would never talk about here in case somebody was tempted to copy it.
 
A single SR pass is sufficient for me, close and comfortable. The odd second pass is for kicks, mostly stick to one though.
I am sure I have no desire to use a straight for the maintenance issues that I think would be associated having one

BUT its posts like this and a few others that do make me curious about the efficiency etc... and make me think hmmmmmmmm is that a itch I have ! Hahahahahaha
 
I am sure I have no desire to use a straight for the maintenance issues that I think would be associated having one

BUT its posts like this and a few others that do make me curious about the efficiency etc... and make me think hmmmmmmmm is that a itch I have ! Hahahahahaha
It’s an interesting point. I think overall straight razors aren’t more efficient than DE razors, but for a single with-the-grain pass they might well be. Same with a replaceable blade Artist Club straight razor (a “shavette” as some refer to them), which may be easier for you to try since there is no maintenance required.
 

Ravenonrock

I shaved the pig
I am sure I have no desire to use a straight for the maintenance issues that I think would be associated having one

BUT its posts like this and a few others that do make me curious about the efficiency etc... and make me think hmmmmmmmm is that a itch I have ! Hahahahahaha
Yes, it’s an itch you have, wether you scratch it or not is another story. SR shaving is something I truly enjoy now, but scratching that itch 30 years ago, I wasn't successful. It was the maintenance issues, something I was not prepared for. Dull razor, unpleasant experience, gave up. Maintaining a razor, wether you acquire that ability or merely send it out for honing is a part of the package for sure, as simple as that. There will always be some aspect of maintenance though, enough to discourage many. For me, I embrace and get satisfaction from the whole experience and encourage anyone interested to have a go!
 
Yes, it’s an itch you have, wether you scratch it or not is another story. SR shaving is something I truly enjoy now, but scratching that itch 30 years ago, I wasn't successful. It was the maintenance issues, something I was not prepared for. Dull razor, unpleasant experience, gave up. Maintaining a razor, wether you acquire that ability or merely send it out for honing is a part of the package for sure, as simple as that. There will always be some aspect of maintenance though, enough to discourage many. For me, I embrace and get satisfaction from the whole experience and encourage anyone interested to have a go!
my kids are 13 and 18 maybe once they are both gone time will be more on my side ? But as of now would not trade that time with them for anything
kinda one of those know my limits of my hobbies and time it takes
I think then I could see maybe trying it :) have thought about a good Feather straight I can just pop a blade into just to see and get the hang of it some ? Post on that was mixed to do it and not do that :) hahahaah but like all things here so personal
 
I have a collection of straight razors, DE razors, and SE razors (some using Schick injector blades, some Artist Club). I use them all from time to time, but some are used less frequently as I am not fond of them. Even when I use a straight razor for most of my shave, I always finish up using a mild TTO DE razor with a super sharp blade for my clean-up pass to pick up any stray stubble.

Razor are tools. Use whatever tools you have in your toolbox in the manner that provides the best shave possible.
 
I remember a TV commercial with a guy dragging a business card or some such across his face. The fact that it made no noise was the selling point
I remember that for edge shaving cream :) used that goo when I started shaving and for a while after
 
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Both my father and grandfather did one pass and touch up. My grandfather used a straight until the 1970's, then a DE. My father used a DE until the late 1980's. He started with a straight but quickly switched.

I was taught one pass and touchup. Second and third passes tend to cause significant irritation for me.

Both my father and I use electric on occasion, and I have used twin blade carts on and off over the years. One pass and touch up for me.
 
my kids are 13 and 18 maybe once they are both gone time will be more on my side ? But as of now would not trade that time with them for anything
kinda one of those know my limits of my hobbies and time it takes
I think then I could see maybe trying it :) have thought about a good Feather straight I can just pop a blade into just to see and get the hang of it some ? Post on that was mixed to do it and not do that :) hahahaah but like all things here so personal
One of my favourite times is when my five year old daughter wakes up early and hangs out with me before everyone else in the house wakes up. Yesterday she got up and hung out with me in the bathroom as I did my three pass straight razor shave. I wonder if that memory will one day be as special for her as it is for me.
 

Star_Wahl_Clipper_Treker

Likes a fat handle in his hand
One of my favourite times is when my five year old daughter wakes up early and hangs out with me before everyone else in the house wakes up. Yesterday she got up and hung out with me in the bathroom as I did my three pass straight razor shave. I wonder if that memory will one day be as special for her as it is for me.

Awww. This a moment where you can say, "Your daddy is a wizard." And she might say, "Yeah, why are you a wizard daddy?" And then you say. "Cause daddy can make whiskers disappear off his face, see watch."

the ice pirates shaving GIF by Warner Archive


HAHA 🤣
 
One of my favourite times is when my five year old daughter wakes up early and hangs out with me before everyone else in the house wakes up. Yesterday she got up and hung out with me in the bathroom as I did my three pass straight razor shave. I wonder if that memory will one day be as special for her as it is for me.
It will be. At that age anything parents do is fascinating to children. Now all you need to do is figure out what to do when she ask if she can try to shave too. Can't just hand the straight to a child as you can with the electric I was using when my son was that age🙂
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
.... I wonder if that memory will one day be as special for her as it is for me.
I hope so. It was for me. I lost my father when I was 14yo. I will forever remember watching him shave in the mornings with his three-piece "safety" razor. Occasionally, when he had the time, he would allow me to lather up after his shave. I was then allowed to shave with his three-piece, top plate and handle only.

You could get one of your less-used SRs, bread-knife the edge to a 180° bevel and then hone a semicircular edge on it. Then you can teach your daughter how to lather and SR shave. That should give her something to remember her dad by. She will never forget.
 
I always marvel at the incredible memories so many forum members seem to have when the recount their shaving stories from 30, 40, 50 years ago. I started shaving about 55 years ago and I barely remember a thing from those years. Anyway, one thing I doubt I ever did until maybe 15-20 years ago, was a three pass+ shave. In the old days, I suspect I made a single pass and wondered all day why my dress shirts would get frayed collars within a few months. At some point along the way, I must have started doing second passes to clean up my neck. And, I really don't remember when I became so compulsive to start needing to get every last whisker off my face but, as I said, it's been years. I think I've gone mental... :rolleyes:
 
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