How Did the Three Pass Shave Originate? One or Two Passes Were Standard Historically.

[Knuckleballer]

When I first started shaving with disposables and cartridges, as well as DE razors later on, I’d do one pass with the grain then a cleanup going in all directions. Never did 3 passes until I stumbled upon the DE shaving online realm. Was looking into ordering blades in bulk online when I got sick of the prices of the locally available 5 and 10 packs going up. So I started searching for reviews for an idea of what to get, wanted to try different blades than the locally available blades: Gillette Silver Blues, Feathers, Derby Extras, Personna Blues, and Van Der Hagens. No complaints on those blades I just became fascinated with how many other options there were I had no idea.

So while searching for blade reviews I came across a YouTube video featuring the 3 pass shave. Dude had enough lather in his mug left over for a good week’s worth of shaves. Looked like he was enjoying it, so I started doing the 3 pass shave and it provided good results and all that but I’ve come to believe a full XTG pass for me is not needed. So lately I’ve been doing 2 full passes then a quick cleanup. First pass WTG, rinse, reapply soap or cream, second pass ATG. Then I rinse again and do a quick cleanup using nothing but water and the residual slickness left from the cream ir soap and making sure my face is wet where I shave. I’ll go with, across, or against the grain maybe a J hook here and there in stubborn areas for the quick cleanup. The results are just good as I get with a full 3 passes, speeds things along too. However, if I were to skip several days of shaving I’d probably reinstate that XTG. But I typically shave daily, so one WTG and one ATG has worked well on 24 hr beard growth.

 

[AndyPanda]

In my younger days I used to read Playboy magazine - for the articles of course - and I'm pretty sure there was a "how to" on wet shaving for that BBS smooth face before a date - it had the multiple passes starting WTG and ending with ATG. But I don't remember what year or the details of the process (I was probably using an electric razor in those days). I'm thinking it was in the 70's or 80's though.

There was also an article I remember about making the perfect french fries that involved soaking the cut potatoes in cold water in the fridge overnight (just like people say to break in a boar brush now) and then individually wrapping each potato strip in paper towel before deep frying them.

I'm probably the only guy in history who ever read the articles in that magazine

 

[Cash_Stronomer]

I only run a second pass on my cheeks for whatever reason I've landed on. I can shave everything relatively well in a single pass except the middle of my cheeks and toward my 'burns'. That really only takes a second though so basically it's a one really good pass and then a feel around. At first, however long ago I found this place, I got a little obsessed with multi passes and extra smooth shaves but then I realized no matter how good the shave is you're only doing it again tomorrow anyway. A single pass with a feel around for bad spots is the best way to go for me, no risk of irritation and basically the same result in appearance anyway.

 

[den fly]

You hear a lot about the "traditional three pass shave." Wet shaving is traditional. But doing three passes is a luxury.

 

[Asland408]

I love this thread. When I was 16, my first shave (1988), my Dad taught me the 3 pass shave technique (WG,XG,AG) with can foam and a mach 3 he bought a solid metal handle for me (still have it). I believe he learned the technique from my Grandpa Jim. Things about my grandpa served in the army in WWII. He was a salesman as a profession all his working life. My Dad was in Sales and moved into executive level management in the high tech industry. I envy those that can get a good shave with two passes. My growth pattern requires a XG pass. Even though I rebelled for many years it was a must to be clean shaven in the house I grew up in. I think my Dad taught me 3 passes because his Dad did and because it was how my Dad got a good shave. Also missing a spot or area would get you picked on or a gentle teasing from Dad. As I have said before my Dad still uses a Track 2 for over 40 years and counting. Good shaves to you all.

 

[Asland408]

I consider that I do with-the-grain for the first pass, against-the-grain for the second pass, and against-the-other-grain for the third pass. Against the grain is what I find most satisfying and productive, with the right razor and blade, but the hairs grow in at least two prevailing directions simultaneously on parts of my face. I can do a good two-pass shave if my second pass combines two directions at once, but that isn’t really two passes - it’s two lathers and three passes.

Hair. Why won’t it just grow in straight, parallel lines like Chuck Norris’? Then again, his beard looks boring. On balance it’s probably best to have some arty swooshes and flourishes in a beard, so maybe complicated shaving isn’t such a bad thing.

I also cheat at shaving and do something I would never talk about here in case somebody was tempted to copy it.

My beard hair grows like yours two directions at once. A two pass shave only works if I shave in the way you describe. It has always worked best as a three pass shave with touch-ups. I have some arty swooshes and flourishes in my beard makes shaving fun and complex. Cheers!

 

[FL shaver]

I’ve been trending toward about 1 3/4 passes and touch ups. I wonder if it is pretty close to how a shave was done last mid-century. Three is overkill. I had been doing two and touchups, but I now think that I don’t even complete a full second pass.

 

[Old Navy_1]

@Knuckleballer ..."One or Two Passes Were Standard Historically."

It was? I've been DE shaving for quite a long time and it's always been 3-pass, WTG/ATG/XTG for me. I guess, it's what your beard and skin require to achieve satisfactory results. So, if that's 1, 2, or even 3-passes, or more, so be it.

b/r

ON_1

 

[jason2]

If relathering is required to make an additional pass then I only do a single pass.

I will go WTG as best as I can and right away after that stroke reverse and go ATG. Then will do touch ups after if needed. My neck is the most tricky in that there's no way to go just WTG. It's split up into multiple zones to go WTG as best as possible.

 

[pierrelortie44]

Facial hair grows almost laterally in all directions. Whatever is required to remove all stubble roughness that digs into shirt collars, and appears as uneven shady patches as beard grows during the day. For me it’s more like 3 passes plus touch ups, down up diagonal-down diagonal-up.

 

[Lane101]

@Knuckleballer ..."One or Two Passes Were Standard Historically."

It was? I've been DE shaving for quite a long time and it's always been 3-pass, WTG/ATG/XTG for me. I guess, it's what your beard and skin require to achieve satisfactory results. So, if that's 1, 2, or even 3-passes, or more, so be it.

b/r

ON_1

Hi, Have a look at my first post in this thread. Most of the historical documentation speaks to a one or two pass shave as most common. The message around a "standard" three pass shave appears to be relatively recent via all the shaving videos and blogs out there - often presented by enthusiastic hobbyists seeking to convert cartridge shavers to DE/SE or vendors seeking to sell product.

That said you are absolutely right that this is driven by beard characteristics and personal preferences on satisfactory results. As we can see, through the personal stories in this thread and @Alum Ladd 's thread on 1950's techniques, that there is no "standard" method beyond what works best for each of us from one to three+ passes.

P.S. @Asland408 , really enjoyed reading about how your family's shaving approach has been passed down across three generations! The tech environment your Dad was in when you were 16 was far more formal than the casual culture of most tech firms today. Back then there was likely a requirement for formal business attire and extremely clean shaven faces that necessitated multiple passes.

 

[VBH37118]

Why do vendors (some vendors) push everything but the kitchen sink, most of which was never heard of in the early 70’s when I started shaving, pre shave oil, pre shave cream mixing soap with cream the list goes on and on. My grandfather shaved with a straight razor and bar soap that was in the bathroom and only one shaving brush, now they tell you the brush needs to be completely dry to use it again so you buy more and more brushes. If a shaving item gets canonized by the internet it becomes gospel, and no turning back. Sorry for the long winded comment I had to say what was on my mind and just my opinion

 

[sgarnett]

The number of passes is somewhat arbitrary, but for me the motivation for a close shave is simple.

I’m 58 and a remarried widower. My wife is 8 1/2 years younger and divorced. We’re both making up for lost time. My wife likes the look of stubble, but not the feel ….

 

[VBH37118]

Why do vendors (some vendors) push everything but the kitchen sink, most of which was never heard of in the early 70’s when I started shaving, pre shave oil, pre shave cream mixing soap with cream the list goes on and on. My grandfather shaved with a straight razor and bar soap that was in the bathroom and only one shaving brush, now they tell you the brush needs to be completely dry to use it again so you buy more and more brushes. If a shaving item gets canonized by the internet it becomes gospel, and no turning back. Sorry for the long winded comment I had to say what was on my mind and just my opinion

Why do vendors (some vendors) push everything but the kitchen sink, most of which was never heard of in the early 70’s when I started shaving, pre shave oil, pre shave cream mixing soap with cream the list goes on and on. My grandfather shaved with a straight razor and bar soap that was in the bathroom and only one shaving brush, now they tell you the brush needs to be completely dry to use it again so you buy more and more brushes. If a shaving item gets canonized by the internet it becomes gospel, and no turning back. Sorry for the long winded comment I had to say what was on my mind and just my opinion

I love bacon!

 

[sgarnett]

Hi, Have a look at my first post in this thread. Most of the historical documentation speaks to a one or two pass shave as most common. The message around a "standard" three pass shave appears to be relatively recent via all the shaving videos and blogs out there - often presented by enthusiastic hobbyists seeking to convert cartridge shavers to DE/SE or vendors seeking to sell product.

That said you are absolutely right that this is driven by beard characteristics and personal preferences on satisfactory results. As we can see, through the personal stories in this thread and @Alum Ladd 's thread on 1950's techniques, that there is no "standard" method beyond what works best for each of us from one to three+ passes.

P.S. @Asland408 , really enjoyed reading about how your family's shaving approach has been passed down across three generations! The tech environment your Dad was in when you were 16 was far more formal than the casual culture of most tech firms today. Back then there was likely a requirement for formal business attire and extremely clean shaven faces that necessitated multiple passes.

I’ve been with my current employer for over 32 years. We were originally part of IBM. Yes, as an engineer, a clean shave and a dark suit, tie, and white Oxford button-down shirt was the standard back then.

A few years after IBM sold us, we briefly used another IBM division as a contract manufacturer (still in the US back then). They were trying to lose the buttoned-down conformity image to pick up more OEM work. They sort of got it, but … not. All of the engineers were wearing khaki slacks with pastel golf shirts. Only khaki and pastels, as far as the eye could see, except for the mfg line workers ….

 

[dotKomo]

When I started shaving in the 70s, it was one and done. As I grew into adulthood it was still one pass - north-south above the jawline, east-west below which was mostly ATG. I picked up the three-pass shave when I switched back to DE razors in 2013 from watching YouTube videos of Mantic59.

Today, it's three with a clean-up pass under the jawline, as that's the really pesky area for me.

I must say, one of the nicest feelings is taking an evening shower and shave on a Saturday after working outside. It's so refreshing to be freshly bathed and shaven - heaven!

 

[VBH37118]

When I started shaving in the 70s, it was one and done. As I grew into adulthood it was still one pass - north-south above the jawline, east-west below which was mostly ATG. I picked up the three-pass shave when I switched back to DE razors in 2013 from watching YouTube videos of Mantic59.

Today, it's three with a clean-up pass under the jawline, as that's the really pesky area for me.

I must say, one of the nicest feelings is taking an evening shower and shave on a Saturday after working outside. It's so refreshing to be freshly bathed and shaven - heaven!

I love one and done, it’s been a ritual for years

 

[gmdh1221]

When I started wet shaving in about 2008, I somehow got it into my head that you "had" to do the whole three pass shave to be doing it right.

I just never grew to like that third pass on my neck. I also started skipping shaves during the week due to hassle. I realized I was subconsciously voting with my feet that I just wasn't going to ever be an "always 3 passes" guy. I'm happy now to do a speed and convenience-oriented single pass on weekdays, and perhaps luxuriate in it a little more on weekends. And with that I actually bother to shave as often as I should.

 

[Lane101]

When I started wet shaving in about 2008, I somehow got it into my head that you "had" to do the whole three pass shave to be doing it right.

I just never grew to like that third pass on my neck. I also started skipping shaves during the week due to hassle. I realized I was subconsciously voting with my feet that I just wasn't going to ever be an "always 3 passes" guy. I'm happy now to do a speed and convenience-oriented single pass on weekdays, and perhaps luxuriate in it a little more on weekends. And with that I actually bother to shave as often as I should.

First welcome to B&B, I see you recently joined us this past March. Great strategy, a good single pass can deliver a DFS that is better than what you get from an electric razor for very little extra time.

 

[FreeFlyFreak]

Curious as to the origination of today's recommended three pass DE shave with, across and against the grain? Is anyone familiar with the basis for this? My attempt to research the topic hasn't found any historical basis for this beyond the more recent posts and videos from DE shavers who recommend the approach. Details of my experience and research on the topic are as follows:

I started DE shaving during my college days (After 5 years I went electric returning after decades to DE three years ago) and don't recall any instructions regarding this approach for shaving back then. Basically applied canned foam, shaved and did some touch up for a DFS. Today I achieve a BBS shave with two passes and some touch up. No need for a full third pass.

Research of historical commercial shaving directions hasn't surfaced anything on the three pass shave though there was some discussion of a two passes if an extra close shave was desired. Way back in 1905 a pamphlet on straight razor shaving (link below) stated " If you desire a really clean shave, you must go over the face the second time......In shaving over the face the second time, some reverse the stroke. That is, they shave upward against the growth of the beard, instead of downward, as during the first time over." basically suggesting an optional two pass shave with the first pass with the grain and the second against.

More recent DE shaving instructions from the mid-20th century either recommend one pass with the grain with some against the grain touch up (1961 Gillette Directions link below) or, similar to 1905 a single with the grain pass with an optional " if necessary" second against the grain pass (1963 Gillette British Directions link below). The 1958 directions (link below) only mention a single pass with long diagonal strokes that appear to be a trademark of many Gillette shaving instructions from those days. More recent Gillette instructions from the 1970s & 80s only focus on operation of the razor.

Found an old 2014 thread on B&B (2nd to last link below) where the posts also affirm that a one or two pass shave was pretty standard at the time these instructions were distributed.

I did find one possible source for the three pass shave in an open source professional barbering textbook (last link below) that talks about a three pass shave though interestingly it notes that the third pass is almost never done. The specific text instructions are"

"There are three main types of shaves traditionally practiced in barbershops:

• The first time over: The standard shave service performed in barbershops today. It is performed using a lather on the beard and by shaving in the direction of the grain. This shave removes all visible hair growth and leaves the skin smooth and without irritation.
• The second time over: This shave is performed immediately after the first time over to create a closer shave by removing any remaining hair. The second time over shave is generally performed on dampened skin with no lather, while working with or across the grain.
• The close shave: A shave that is typically not practiced, unless the client has a particularly challenging beard or growth pattern, in which the first time over and second time over shaves were not enough to adequately remove all of the hair. This shave is performed against the grain, therefore it is not commonly performed as it is more likely to cause irritation, ingrown hairs, and the possibility of infection.

Source: Barbering Techniques for Hairstylists by Arden Magtiza and Gary Franceschini

In the detailed instruction section the text notes that "The Second Time Over" shave is only done where needed. It is not a full second pass. So really the recommended professional barber shave is a single pass with touch up.

Back to the original question. Is anyone familiar with how the three pass shave became the recommended approach for DE shavers today? Wondering if there is any real basis for it or if in reality, as noted in the text above, we just need to determine what works best for us given our unique beard characteristics and YMMV.


Post with links to 1905 shaving pamphlet

1905 Shaving Guide: Shaving made easy; what the man who shaves ought to know ... (From Library of Congress)

Stumbled onto this publication from 1905 titled "Shaving made easy; what the man who shaves ought to know ..." that is in the Library of Congress. (Links below) Interesting piece of history that covers all aspects of shaving as known then. Some takeaways: This is pre-DE so it only covers...

www.badgerandblade.com

1958 Gillette U.S. Razor Directions:
https://mr-razor.com/Anleitungen/1958 TV Super-Speed.jpg

1961 Gillette U.S. Razor Directions

https://mr-razor.com/Anleitungen/1961%20Slim%20Var.3.jpg

1963 Gillette British Shaving Directions

https://mr-razor.com/Anleitungen/1963%20Slim%20British%20Mark%20II.jpg

The History of Multiple Pass Shaving - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/the-history-of-multiple-pass-shaving.436596/

Barbering Textbook Link

4.1 Introduction to the Straight Razor Shave – Barbering Techniques for Hairstylists

opentextbc.ca

IMO its a "one up manship" fad
More must be better right.
"I hate 3 blade cartridges so I do 3 passes with one blade instead"
Its entertaining to me.
I believe its an internet created norm and your dates and data would seem to back that up.