Honing question

Discussion in 'Hones/Honing' started by Steve1981, May 16, 2019.

    How often does a blade need to be honed? I was thinking once a year. Newb question.
  1. When your strop just doesn't do it anymore.
    No other way to answer it. It varies for everyone.
  2. Depends on what honing stone you're using and how sharp you want the razor to be.

    Many people have been content to hone every two months. On a coticule (about 8k) or synthetic (10k or 12k).

    As you get closer to the two months the razor is getting duller. Some people are fine with that. Some people don't like that, so they hone every Saturday morning.

    And for those who like it very sharp and always exactly the same, they put .1u diamond paste on balsa wood and after every single shave, every day, strop on the balsa. Which is like super fine honing.

    If I was starting out, I'd suggest a naniwa 12k honing stone and an atoma 1200 diamond plate to lap it flat. On the first of the month, I'd lap the nani12 and hone the razor.

    All of the various systems work.

    Have fun
  3. I want an honing stone or stones ( Japanese ) that will get the job done in a professional manor. Stones that I can keep for a lifetime! I know I am a beginner, but I want great quality. So any suggestions of what I might be happy with that will be great thanks. Newb
  4. Not a new person question at all. It will vary from user to user depending on beard type. I tend to do a touch up on my Thuringian finisher stone before each shave followed by stropping.
  5. I was under the impression I guess that stropping my blade before each use will be sufficient enough to keep the blade sharp ( sharpening ) and the honing would be a once in a blue moon thing. I am seeing different answers here, I guess I will have to do trial and error or something.
  6. Stropping on a clean strop, no pastes etc, will realign the edge. Basically it gets it's all nice and ready for a shave but it won't sharpen it the way we define sharpening when using stones, pastes, lapping film and what not.
    Once the edge starts tugging then it's time for something more aggressive aka honing.
    The longevity of the edge depends on many factors. Your technique, the steel of the razor, the honing it self, what you like and expect from a razor etc. So many things are subjective in this hobby.
  7. I stropped a Geneva a few back for 5 or 6 shaves then back to the finish stone. I have coarse hair.
  8. Good information, I like it! Now with having a 3000/8000 sharpening stone, using it with a gold dollar razor will that work Ok? I am thinking you can achieve a good shave or decent enough hopefully. I would sharpen with 3000 grit carefully than move on to 8000 to make the blade ready for stropping. I do body work on cars, so I know a little bit about that aspect. I think a chef or cook would know even more than me with sharpening even!
  9. If you’re shaving daily with just one razor you’d probably have to touch it up on your finishing stone monthly. It wouldn’t be hard just a couple careful laps.

    Now a 3/8k combo would work, but ideally you’d want to follow the 8k with a paste or a 10/12k stone just to make the shave a bit more comfortable.
  10. Not sure. I’ve been a meat cutter in another life and shaving sharp is another concept.
  11. Good to read your post. 8000 didn’t sound to comfortable.
  12. Well it really depends I guess. If someone has a thick coarse beard 8k might not do it. But if someone else has a thin beard not very tough the 8k could probably take care of it with not much tugging.
  13. you can set a bevel on a 3k, takes longer than with a 1k but if that's what you have why not. If I do naturals I go 1,3,5,8. The bigger the jump, 3 to 8, the longer time you will have to spend on the 8k. If you are going synthetic then I would suggest a 12k Naniwa to finish on.

    Also with GD's remember that the geometry can be off, depending on the model the stabilizer can be getting in the way etc. That's why people modify them.

    Use a sharpie and mark the edge, then see how the sharper gets removed as you hone. Some people hone by rubbing the razor up and down like maniacs. I have found very few razors that that style will hone the whole edge, toe to heel. For most razors you have to adjust the stroke to make sure the whole edge is hitting.
  14. Ah yes also good points.

    If going for a gd find one from a seller that will make it shaving sharp from the start. They will usually deal with the grind and stabilizers for you, saving you a lot of headaches.

    Another good point is the stroke. Some razors have warps so you’ll have to modify your stroke for them with maybe a rolling x? I do the rolling x sometimes but prefer to ride the corner of the hone myself.
    Last edited: May 16, 2019
  15. Now that you've found the honing forum, you're really set. Just read and read.

    The thread about the combo convex arkansas stones, found at The Superior Shave, is one.

    You said you're interested in jnats. Read what doc226 says about that. That guy likes to go to 5k in synthetics then uses an atoma 1200 to slurry a hard jnat and goes with laps that slowly lighten over time.

    Read the threat about The Method by Slash McCoy, and putting paste on balsa wood.

    My bias (right now) is the convex black Arkansas finishing stones from The Superior Shave.

    For starting off, most guys will recommend a naniwa 12k to you.

    Nobody's wrong. It's just a hobby. You'll think one method is the best then next year you'll change your mind.
  16. I am going to make sure I order a 12k to finish it off, I will just have to wait!
  17. No worries! Always good to save your money until you can buy a quality product instead of a no name cheap one.
  18. I have a chance of getting a 1,3,6,12 Japanese diamond wetstones I don't know if buying these will do the trick.
  19. What brand are they?

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