Honing Newbie, basics!

[Biltong & Boerewors]

This is the only supply of .1u I could find in the UK. Works fine. Think the reason I couldn't find it initially was because it is advertised as 1/10 micron, that's the same as .1u

RS PRO Grey Diamond Paste 1/10μm Grade , 10ml Bottle | RS Components

uk.rs-online.com

 

[Slash McCoy]

This is the only supply of .1u I could find in the UK. Works fine. Think the reason I couldn't find it initially was because it is advertised as 1/10 micron, that's the same as .1u

RS PRO Grey Diamond Paste 1/10μm Grade , 10ml Bottle | RS Components

uk.rs-online.com

You can also look for 200,000 grit or 200k grit. You may also see it listed as 250k or 300k but usually it is considered to be 200k.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Ordered.

Can share first thoughts when it (eventually…. UK orders take ages now, plus customs scrutiny) arrives.

Will follow the manual for sure, all is there. What I haven’t read so far, sorry if I missed it, is: how long does that setup last before needing to refresh the paste? A certain number of laps, time, check-by-observation?

Question also important for deciding for a 5g or 18g from Ted Pellas?

Thanks!

Generally I reapply after 30 to 60 sessions. The .5μ and .25μ will last a long time, of course, if you only have one or two razors, because you will use them seldom or never, until you get another razor. You will use the .1μ after every shave. So maybe get the 5g tube of the two bigger grits and the 18g of the .1μ is what I suggest, but up to you. Don't over paste. If you think you got enough, you probably have too much.

 

[mmrmm]

Generally I reapply after 30 to 60 sessions. The .5μ and .25μ will last a long time, of course, if you only have one or two razors, because you will use them seldom or never, until you get another razor. You will use the .1μ after every shave. So maybe get the 5g tube of the two bigger grits and the 18g of the .1μ is what I suggest, but up to you. Don't over paste. If you think you got enough, you probably have too much.

Great advice, will do so - thanks mate!

 

[mmrmm]

Now I need to ask, a bit of a mystery around one of my straights.

It is shaving better on one side than the other. No, not shaving technique. I notice that when stropping on hanging leather for example, the noise is not the same on one side and the other. So here technique might tube the answer. Perhaps also the pressure on lapping film is not the same on either side. Not sure if this would result in such noticeable difference.

Main suspicion: burr method. I did it already a few times, great. On this one, for some reason I cannot explain, my frustration on raising a burr might (…) have resulted in a significantly different number of laps on either side. If so, and if this could cause something like the effect I feel, how can I eventually correct?

 

[Slash McCoy]

It might not be a difference between the two sides at all. It may simply be the doppler effect or acoustic effects related to the razor moving toward or away from you. Try stropping left handed. I bet after you get used to it, you will notice the same "different' sounds, except now what you heard on the show side before, you will hear on the back side. and vice versa. Another experiment you can try is stretching the strop out sideways in front of you and stropping right-left-right-left instead of toward-away-toward-away.

 

[mmrmm]

Will try it out!

What about shaving differently on either side, any clue?

 

[bluesman 7]

What about shaving differently on either side, any clue?

Hard to imagine anything but a poorly shaped apex.

The anti-burr tribe argues that when a burr is formed it has to be removed and this can happen in a poorly controlled way (breaking or tearing) leaving an imperfect apex. Their solution is to avoid the burr in the first place or to carefully remove it at a low grit stage and insure that it never returns. In any case leaving the lower grit stones with a poorly formed apex is a bevel set problem.

 

[Slash McCoy]

If it shaves differently on one side or the other even when you switch hands, and the "shaving side" doesn't change, then you have a malformed bevel. Examine it in a BRIGHT light with magnification. Or simply reset the bevel using moderate to light diminishing pressure and regular alternating x stroke laps, then run the progression.

Some honers have a personal bias in their honing. The effect of it can be reduced by honing in hand, if you are bench honing.

Be sure to add some pull strokes and very short x strokes at the end of every stage, to strip off any burr in its infancy. Keep yoru pressure light, very light at the finish. Use your eyes and sense of touch, not just a honing formula.

 

[mmrmm]

Great advices, will follow the recipe!

 

[ouchyfoot]

View attachment 1282200
I got a Wilkinson Empire razor that came with one wedge blade. I’ve never dealt with a wedge safety razor before. I’ve worked it on my wet-stones from 1000-3000-8000-12000 grit.
Do you think that will suffice for shaving. I have some 3, 0.5, and 0.1 lapping film. Do you think it’s necessary, or do you think I should just lather up and see how it goes?

 

[Slash McCoy]

View attachment 1282200
I got a Wilkinson Empire razor that came with one wedge blade. I’ve never dealt with a wedge safety razor before. I’ve worked it on my wet-stones from 1000-3000-8000-12000 grit.
Do you think that will suffice for shaving. I have some 3, 0.5, and 0.1 lapping film. Do you think it’s necessary, or do you think I should just lather up and see how it goes?

You could run the standard balsa progression. I wouldn't bother with sub micron lapping film.