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Honing journal part one (feel free to discuss)

ran the 2 razors i worked on for a few days on the lapping film. and gave them 30 laps on the chrome ox and my god they are sharp i went to test one on a patch of hair on my cheek that i missed ad just BARELY moved the wrong way and the blade kissed me. i think they are getting there. went from a thousand grit or so lapping film to a 1 micron lapping film to see how it would go since i was told by a buddy of mine who refurbishes and sells razors that you could do that and man its crazy comfortable for the most part. it is a little uncomfortable going across the grade on the left side of my neck but i haven't found a razor. both straight and safety that didn't shave uncomfortably there
 
You mean not yet. Give it some time. You be fine. Before 1904 it was the only way. I promise you if you stick to it you will.
 
Your buddy is in a business where time is critical, and has found an efficient way to make serviceable edges for his customers.

I have a microscope, which is a great way to avoid fooling yourself, and it tells me that it takes more work than that to make a perfect comfortable edge, with a nice straight line at the apex, showing only the effects of the finisher. It also tells me that the No 1 cause of an edge that is not comfortable is little micro dings or jags in the edge.

I seem to be extra-sensitive to an edge that is not comfortable like that, so I have to resort to perfectionism. It's a lot more work.
 
Did you do anything between the 1k and the 1 micron? I hone on film all the time but I usually set bevels on 12 or 9 micron and then go to 5, 3, and 1. Sometimes .3 to finish. For touchups it's usually 5/3/1 or just 3/1. More steps translates to less wear on the film.

I've set bevels on the 5 micron too, if they were in good shape to start. Or as low as 30 micron when needed. The coarse scratches take a long time to polish out, though.
 
If you really want the blade to be sharp and smooth, follow up the honing on 1 micron lapping film with stropping using pasted strops with 0.5, 0.25 and 0.1 micron abrasive pastes of sprays. Many people recommend using diamond pastes or sprays on lapped balsa. I use CBN pastes and sprays on microfiber strops. Once you get the technique down, you will have a super sharp, super smooth edge. Many people maintain their edges for long periods of time using only pasted strops.
 
“ran the 2 razors i worked on for a few days on the lapping film. and gave them 30 laps on the chrome ox. Went from a thousand grit or so lapping film to a 1 micron lapping film. It is a little uncomfortable going across the grade on the left side of my neck.”

If you are going from 1k to 1um that is a 1k to 16k jump. It can be done in experienced hands, especially if you make a micro bevel on the 16k, AND you are absolutely sure the bevel is fully set on the 1k.

What are you using for magnification and how did you determine the bevel was fully set?

Likely you will be better served with a 4k jump from the 1k and 8k from the 4k, then finish on 1um.

90 percent of honing is flattening the bevels, setting them in the correct bevel angle and making the bevels meet at a straight edge, with no chips, (bevel setting), The rest is just polishing the bevels to straighten the edge. The straighter the edge, the smoother it will shave.

Post photos of your razor, both side, a lot can be learned about the razor, how it has been maintained and any issues in the blade.
 
Did you do anything between the 1k and the 1 micron? I hone on film all the time but I usually set bevels on 12 or 9 micron and then go to 5, 3, and 1. Sometimes .3 to finish. For touchups it's usually 5/3/1 or just 3/1. More steps translates to less wear on the film.

I've set bevels on the 5 micron too, if they were in good shape to start. Or as low as 30 micron when needed. The coarse scratches take a long time to polish out, though.
i ruined the rest of my lapping film by it getting dirty on the sticky side
 
“ran the 2 razors i worked on for a few days on the lapping film. and gave them 30 laps on the chrome ox. Went from a thousand grit or so lapping film to a 1 micron lapping film. It is a little uncomfortable going across the grade on the left side of my neck.”

If you are going from 1k to 1um that is a 1k to 16k jump. It can be done in experienced hands, especially if you make a micro bevel on the 16k, AND you are absolutely sure the bevel is fully set on the 1k.

What are you using for magnification and how did you determine the bevel was fully set?

Likely you will be better served with a 4k jump from the 1k and 8k from the 4k, then finish on 1um.

90 percent of honing is flattening the bevels, setting them in the correct bevel angle and making the bevels meet at a straight edge, with no chips, (bevel setting), The rest is just polishing the bevels to straighten the edge. The straighter the edge, the smoother it will shave.

Post photos of your razor, both side, a lot can be learned about the razor, how it has been maintained and any issues in the blade.
im using a cheap 30/60 loupe but i have trouble with it
 
It does not take a couple day to set a bevel on a 1k, worst case 40-50 laps unless there are other issues

Do not buy PSA backed film. The plain unglued film will stick just fine to a wet substrate if it is flat and smooth and is much easier to store when not in use, a clean business envelop. I buy from Thor Labs.

You do not need high dollar magnification, you just need to figure out how to hold it steady long enough to see what is happening at the edge.

You must figure out your magnification, if you can not see the edge, you are honing blind and your chances of perfecting an edge are very slim to non-existent.

Again, post photos of your razor if you want accurate advice.
 
It does not take a couple day to set a bevel on a 1k, worst case 40-50 laps unless there are other issues

Do not buy PSA backed film. The plain unglued film will stick just fine to a wet substrate if it is flat and smooth and is much easier to store when not in use, a clean business envelop. I buy from Thor Labs.

You do not need high dollar magnification, you just need to figure out how to hold it steady long enough to see what is happening at the edge.

You must figure out your magnification, if you can not see the edge, you are honing blind and your chances of perfecting an edge are very slim to non-existent.

Again, post photos of your razor if you want accurate advice.
i posted them in the "tape?" thread i posted i cant get the bevel to cut hair or grab my thumbnail
 
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