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Honing a razor using TheAx2Method

Lately I have been developing a new honing method that is based on TheAxMethod that uses a diminishing stroke count so that each of the sides of the razor are balanced. My new TheAx2Method takes it a bit further and adds 2 extra steps. I still like the idea of beginning with a slurry generated with a diamond plate, and finishing with a generally depleted slurry but now I have added the jointing technique and a simple piece of scotch tape at the end of the session. Below is a video I made to describe the method in action.

I should add that in my video I am using a good quality japanese finishing stone that has fast cutting grit particles. I am not sure if this method can be used with Coticules or Arkansas stones.

Alx


 
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Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
Interesting Alex, thanks for posting. The thin tape is intriguing, I'm not sure I could see the effect under the scope. Can you see the secondary bevel?

I'd also thought about Kapton tape ad a more durable alternative, and it's available in 1,2 and 5 mil thicknesses.

http://www.kaptontape.com

So you can choose the thickness/angle.

Cheers, Steve
 
I called Alex's bluff on this one. I followed the video at every step. I set the bevel on a H.M. Chritian & Son ? razor I bought for a few bucks on the bay. I used a Shapton Pro 1K instead of the Alex's King 1K. Same # of strokes in the same fashion. I joined the edge on a glass jar.

I don't own a J-nat like Alex's so here's where I went into the twilight zone. Jumped from a 1K to the equivilent of Shapton's 30K. I raised a slurry on my Suihero G20 (Guacomole 20K) with the course side of the slurry stone that comes with it. I did the same # of strokes in the same fashion. I added the scotch tape to the spine and diluted the slurry and did the last 6 strokes. My tape didn't come apart. 10 laps on Kanayama canvas and 20 laps on the Kanayama #3. I pulled a fresh hair from my badger brush (dedicated to HHT) and with much skepticism, proceeded to get as good an HHT as I have ever had. This is crazy. I haven't shaved with it yet as I still have a BBS from this morning's shave, but I have no doubt it will shave.

I intend to try this method on several blades & grinds and I will report back. So far, to say I find this amazing is an understatement.
 
Am I losing my mind here? As posted above, I got what looks like a good shaving edge on the Christian & Son (no, not HM Christianson) blade, so I went to the ultimate test. A modded Gold Dollar that I started for the contest and never was able to finish.

Full disclosure, I took the GD to a DMT 320 to get to something that looked like a bevel. I then went through Alex's sytem with the GD kamisori and I am floored that it has a great HHT. The bevel is hazy under the microscope whereas the G20 usually leaves a mirror polish. I will shave with both of these blades soon, but so far this is pretty cool.

 
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Great video Alex! Thanks for sharing.

I'd like to get feedback on how the razor(s) shaved from you and anyone else that used TheAx2Method.
 
I need to go back and review the whole Ax theory, but I have been "tapering" number of half laps (i.e. 10, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, then alternating single strokes) at the end of a level of progression or dilution.
 
Am I losing my mind here? As posted above, I got what looks like a good shaving edge on the Christian & Son (no, not HM Christianson) blade, so I went to the ultimate test. A modded Gold Dollar that I started for the contest and never was able to finish.

Full disclosure, I took the GD to a DMT 320 to get to something that looked like a bevel. I then went through Alex's sytem with the GD kamisori and I am floored that it has a great HHT. The bevel is hazy under the microscope whereas the G20 usually leaves a mirror polish. I will shave with both of these blades soon, but so far this is pretty cool.

The thing about this and any other method by no matter who is that this is not a foolproof method nor is it for a fool to think that he can just flick the wrist and it happens. There are some caveats.

First because so little time or strokes are spent on the hone, each stroke has to have direct contact all across the blade. This means that a really straight and true edge works best and a smile would be the most difficult and a frown would be impossible. Your bevels have to be spot on and ready to go.

Secondy because of the same short duration on the hone the stone has to be a fast cutting stone. I have tried it with just so-so stones and it did not work. With really good stones I found that the scotch tape is in effect worn through with just 4 to 6 light strokes, with the slow stone the tape was more or less hardly worn.

And thirdly to appreciate that there are some stone steel combinations that are weak, and that there are some that really click.

TheAxMethod and this TheAx2Method are just suggestions as to possibilities and indices into simple methods. They won't work just like any other system won't work if you are not observant. You have to be willing to fiddle around with the stroke count or a different stone. I have also had limited good results using small hand held stones with circle strokes.

The scotch tape effect is very faint and hard to see with the microscope and the effect that I have noticed is more in the brightness of the bevel that is directly adjacent to the edge. One piece of scotch tape is worn through before any effect at all is noticed on the bevel in general. I assume that the secondary bevel is very shallow and that the previous scratch pattern is only "just touched" or brushed over and that any changes, by design, are at the edge and the edge only. This is my thing, I only care about the edge and how the stones affect it. My bevels could be polka dot for all I care as long as they are flat when they come from the bevel setter.

My math skills are almost non-existent, and my count of 21 after the bevel set on the finish stone, plus 5 or 6 with tape might not be the ultimate edge, but it is on the fringe of the ultimate edge for me. More strokes might be better, but I am convinced that more and more and more strokes are not the answer. If this were true than 20,000 strokes would make the razor that much sharper than 20 strokes. I am convinced that there is a narrow range in the stroke count where the edge emerges into and advances out of the state of keeness. We may be able to rescue an over honed edge with skill, but I would like to fine tune my method to key in on that narrow range and to feel and see it and recognize it when it happens. I suspect that the easiest way to find that sweet spot is to know at what point the fewest number of strokes gets you an acceptable edge. From there I can subtract a few more or add a few or a lot more. I want to know when to quit, when it is advantageous to stop.

Alex
 
I tried this today as well with the straightest edged razor in my arsenal, a vintage CMon. I set the bevel on a Chosera 1K and did the rest on a legitimate, top-rate, professional grade Nakayama Kiita. I repeated the exercise twice because the first yielded a 10Kesc edge that shaved but definitely lacked the refinement I consider acceptable, my second attempt was consistant with the first. Will the razor shave, yes, but again, it lacks the refinement I expect and strife for. Despite my experience, I'd consider this method:
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Hey there.
The Plasible is appreciated. Nice graphic.

This is all I could ask for, for someone, now two guys, to have tried something new and have a shaveable edge with the first shot in I am gussing less than 5 minutes. The method just creates the basic edge, not the most refined or even the sharpest edge or the edge that you are used to for that matter, but it will shave hair.

thanks for the effort,

Alx
 
Just a follow up after shaving with the two blades honed with the AX2 method. Both razors shave OK, but not the smooth comfy shave I'm used to. Got quite a sting from my Clubman splash. The main thing I learned doing this, is that there is definitely more than one way to shave a cat, I mean skin a cat. I plan to experiment with adding a stone or two into the progression and still using the minimal, decreasing # of strokes to try to set up a smoother, keener edge. I'm sure this will change the way I hone going forward. Thanks Alex.
 
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