Honing 101

[noahpictures]

Please share your basic honing tips here to take the mystery out of the process for members that are learning to hone.

I'll go first. I found the following two photos by B&B member Seraphim (Craig) educational. The two photos demonstrate how pressure affects the same piece of chalk when "honed" on the same area of the sidewalk. Heavy pressure removed lots of chalk leaving a rough surface; similar to setting a bevel while honing. Light pressure removed little chalk leaving a smoother surface; similar to polishing stages of honing. Very helpful for anyone with one or two hones. Scratches (deep or shallow) can be seen with a magnifying glass such as a jeweler's loupe. A 60x plus loupe can be had for less than ten dollars.

 

[njtnjt]

Nice thread. I will enjoy this. Thanks Noah!

 

[Silverirae]

Subscribed. I'll be watching to improve my skills. Thanks for starting the thread Noah

 

[Lakebound]

Subscribed, in the front row with pencils sharpened and ears open.

Frank

 

[imatabor]

+1

 

[Heespharm]

Bevel set means bevel is set heel to toe... Some people use TNT, tpt, cherry tomato, or arm hair... No matter what, do your work up front on the bevel or getting to HHT will be impossible

Thumb nail test:

http://youtu.be/31j0iI1elMg

 

[Heespharm]

How I work my final tomo slurry... Start with some pressure then move to really light strokes

http://youtu.be/wGE-aRcda00

 

[Gamma]

Just hone.
Don't make a great big deal out of it. Just hone.
Then hone some more.
Buy cheap razors and hone the hell out of them.
Buy more hones, and hone on them - then hone some more on all of them.
Hone all of the razors on all of the hones - then do it again and again and again.
Whatever you do - just keep honing.
Keep a hone at work - and hone there on your lunch hour.
Take a hone to the park - and hone by the pool.
Don't hone while driving - that's a bad move.
But - Hone hone hone.
When you're tired of honing - hone some more.
Hone till it hurts, but keep on honing.
When you're sick of honing - keep on honing.
Hone everythng you can find - hone a spoon, a pencil, or a duck. Doesn't matter - hone it.
When you can get an edge on a duck - you're close. But keep on honing because you're not there yet.
Hone some more - then hone again.
Hone it - hone it good.

 

[Heespharm]

Just hone.
Don't make a great big deal out of it. Just hone.
Then hone some more.
Buy cheap razors and hone the hell out of them.
Buy more hones, and hone on them - then hone some more on all of them.
Hone all of the razors on all of the hones - then do it again and again and again.
Whatever you do - just keep honing.
Keep a hone at work - and hone there on your lunch hour.
Take a hone to the park - and hone by the pool.
Don't hone while driving - that's a bad move.
But - Hone hone hone.
When you're tired of honing - hone some more.
Hone till it hurts, but keep on honing.
When you're sick of honing - keep on honing.
Hone everythng you can find - hone a spoon, a pencil, or a duck. Doesn't matter - hone it.
When you can get an edge on a duck - you're close. But keep on honing because you're not there yet.
Hone some more - then hone again.
Hone it - hone it good.

Haha so what is that again?? We at B and B do not condone harm to animals lol

 

[Alum of Potash]

Following Seraphim's example, is there one stone that will do it all, adjustable pressure-wise? Or do we need to engage in pressure followed by letting off on every stone in an entire Naniwa Super Stone progression, for example?

 

[noahpictures]

Following Seraphim's example, is there one stone that will do it all, adjustable pressure-wise? Or do we need to engage in pressure followed by letting off on every stone in an entire Naniwa Super Stone progression, for example?

Great question!
Yes and yes. Many of us have honed bevel to finish on a single stone such as a coticule or jnat, adjusting pressure, slurry and speed to mimic a honing progression. Honing on a set of stones such as Naniwa or a set of lapping film that include the different sheets (usually 12, 9, 6/5, 3, 1 micron sheets) is probably easier because changing/moving on to the next stone/film sheet in the progression reminds the user to adjust pressure. This leads me to my point of progression in the following post.

 

[noahpictures]

Respect the Progression:

PROGRESSION
Generally the following grit progression is followed:

1K (set bevel)
4K (rids of 1K scratches)
8K (rids of 4K scratches)
12K (rids of 8K scratches) At this point you should have a nice edge.
16K (rids of 12K scratches) 16K and beyond is optional.

A blade finished on a 12K grit hone should shave well after stropping on leather.
300-600 grit: bevel repair such as chipped edge...etc. This is repair work and not part of normal honing in my opinion.

If using one stone such as a coticule or jnat the above progression can be mimicked by using heavy/thick slurry with heavy pressure and gradually decreasing pressure and the thickness of the slurry as one moves through the progression. I prefer to rinse the stone clean then build slurry each time as I move through the progression. Obviously the honing surface must never be dry so adding drops of water is important; this applies to most natural and synthetic stones.

So how does one get to 12K and beyond when the coticule is rated 8K? By using soapy water or oil on a coticule. I don't recommend this nor is it needed on a hard jnat.

I don't take the natural stone ratings too seriously for these are estimates. Unlike Jnats, coticules aren't rated on hardness. They are organized by veins which must be learned and can be difficult to remember all the details. Jnats are rated (often assigned a numberical value) on how hard and fine they are by the sellers. This is great because it makes it easier for the buyer to find a particular stone.

 

[Oscroft]

I started honing razors a year or so ago? (I really can't remember when), and the big lesson I quickly learned is...

* Success comes 90% from setting the bevel properly.

Once you've set the bevel properly - and that means both sides meeting at an edge all along the blade from heel to toe, the rest is just refinement.

And if you don't set the bevel properly, no subsequent amount of rubbing steel on finer and finer rocks will get you shaving.

I've seen plenty of beginners agonizing over what stones to use and getting confused by all sorts of finishing techniques before they've even done their first bevel. It doesn't matter - if you get a decent bevel-setter and learn how to master it, you'll be able to progress to just about any stone system, because they're all capable of good results.

So if you're starting out, get a good bevel setter (I started with a Naniwa SS 1k, but Chosera 1k seems to be a big favourite) and a decent combination synthetic like a Naniwa 3k/8k or a Norton 4k/8k - and don't even think about other stones until you can reliably get good shaveable edges from those.

Oh, and don't even think of trying for "scary sharp" at first, because until you master your technique you simply won't get it no matter what stones you use - just aim for consistently getting a "shaveable" edge.

 

[blackman]

Just hone.
Don't make a great big deal out of it. Just hone.
Then hone some more.
Buy cheap razors and hone the hell out of them.
Buy more hones, and hone on them - then hone some more on all of them.
Hone all of the razors on all of the hones - then do it again and again and again.
Whatever you do - just keep honing.
Keep a hone at work - and hone there on your lunch hour.
Take a hone to the park - and hone by the pool.
Don't hone while driving - that's a bad move.
But - Hone hone hone.
When you're tired of honing - hone some more.
Hone till it hurts, but keep on honing.
When you're sick of honing - keep on honing.
Hone everythng you can find - hone a spoon, a pencil, or a duck. Doesn't matter - hone it.
When you can get an edge on a duck - you're close. But keep on honing because you're not there yet.
Hone some more - then hone again.
Hone it - hone it good.

You must be one with the hone. Consume the hone. Eat the hone on your lunch break.

I am hone, hear me hone.

 

[Lakebound]

Great advice here.

Frank

 

[imatabor]

. When you can get an edge on a duck - you're close. But keep on honing because you're not there yet.

And here I thought a dubl duck was a razor not a pair of mallards

 

[buca3152]

Bevel set is the main thing. Make sure it is set, if in doubt at all keep at it. Get to know how to test for it. And learn to follow the contours of the blade. Rolling and rocking strokes can get you there quicker than honing everything flat. Heel leading strokes accommodate more blades than a straight lap. And know when its done.

 

[buca3152]

Respect the Progression:

PROGRESSION
Generally the following grit progression is followed:

1K (set bevel)
4K (rids of 1K scratches)
8K (rids of 4K scratches)
12K (rids of 8K scratches) At this point you should have a nice edge.
16K (rids of 12K scratches) 16K and beyond is optional.

A blade finished on a 12K grit hone should shave well after stropping on leather.
300-600 grit: bevel repair such as chipped edge...etc. This is repair work and not part of normal honing in my opinion.

If using one stone such as a coticule or jnat the above progression can be mimicked by using heavy/thick slurry with heavy pressure and gradually decreasing pressure and the thickness of the slurry as one moves through the progression. I prefer to rinse the stone clean then build slurry each time as I move through the progression. Obviously the honing surface must never be dry so adding drops of water is important; this applies to most natural and synthetic stones.

So how does one get to 12K and beyond when the coticule is rated 8K? By using soapy water or oil on a coticule. I don't recommend this nor is it needed on a hard jnat.

I don't take the natural stone ratings too seriously for these are estimates. Unlike Jnats, coticules aren't rated on hardness. They are organized by veins which must be learned and can be difficult to remember all the details. Jnats are rated (often assigned a numberical value) on how hard and fine they are by the sellers. This is great because it makes it easier for the buyer to find a particular stone.

Sound advice as opposed to honing aimlessly. Follow any specific progression on whatever stones you have. Pyramids are great to learn with and relatively fool proof IMO. I learned using them but like many I dont find them necessary anymore. And ask questions regarding what your using and ask for SPECIFIC answers as opposed to 3 paragraph ramblings that can only serve to confuse.

 

[LBussy]

Pyramids are great to learn with and relatively fool proof IMO. I learned using them but like many I dont find them necessary anymore.

It's not working. Help?

 

[Alum of Potash]

It's not working. Help?

View attachment 474673

The blade is oriented the wrong way. It needs to be east-west, not north-south. Also, try turning the pyramid so that the base corners line up with the cardinal directions, having actually oriented the paper in this way from the start, and never, ever expect good results under the influence of a waxing moon, which will achieve the opposite effect to the one intended. The moon must be waning. Further explanation may require three paragraphs or more...