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Hone and Strop Recomendation

I have an expensive straight razor that I got as a gift and messed up a little becasue I dont know what Im doing.

I wanted to buy an inexpensive razor like the Gold Dollar or something similar. My question is what stone(s) and strop should I get to go with it to make it useable? Is there anything that I could get from Amazon?
 
I order to hone you will require abrasives/stones starting at around 1k to set the bevel followed with a progression to final polish and the options are endless. Typical progression grit size after 1k bevel setting is 3k, 5k 8k, 12 or 16k and a finisher. Some use natural stones, other synthetic like shapton while others use pastes and diamond sprays. Not knowing what you don't know related to honing can make this an expensive, frustrating and fruitless exercise.

Find a mentor with solid track record will help a lot. I would also suggest sending your expensive razor to be fixed and honed so you know what sharp is and have a reference point.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
+1 what AJ said. For most honing tasks you want a progression. 1k is usually the bevel setter. However, with a Gold Dollar you will want to start much coarser to get the heavy lifting done in a timely manner. A regular Gold Dollar is also not the easiest razor to learn on. The newer models are a little easier and a W60 is probably the easiest to hone and most enjoyable to use, out of the brand. A good vintage would be even better.

See this thread for an alternative to stones that will get you in the game cheaper and quicker and with better results. Newbie Honing Compendium | Badger & Blade
Warning... it is a big read.

As for strops, there are lots of strop makers and lots of very good strops. Most newbies destroy their first strop while learning. So, it is very practical and reasonable to first get a very inexpensive one, and upgrade later. Do a search for "The X Bay" brand. Get the "large" one which is actually only 2-1/2" wide but that is sort of adequate. You can't get anything better for the price. He has his own website now and also sells on Amazon and Ebay. Made in Pakistan but don't let that bother you in this case. It is actually a quite usable strop. There are other alternatives such as the "Poor Man Strop Kit" from www.whippeddog.com and you could maybe contact Tony Miller about one of his plain vanilla strops. Beware cheap strops from China on ebay. They are, in my experience, absolutely useless.

Your best bet for your expensive razor would be to send it out. Any member here who says he can hone, can probably hone, or he wouldn't risk his reputation by claiming to have that skill. Post a query in the Strops and Stropping forum and maybe you will get a bite. You could also reach out to Doc226 who seems to be agreeable to taking in honing for a price. What make and model is it? Do post a pic. Everybody likes pics. Make sure it shows any blade etching or tang stamping.
 
I don’t do the balsa strop thing for razors, but I 100% agree with slash’s recommendations on starting with lapping film. It’s like grabbing a whole set of temporary synthetic stones for less than the price of one real stone, and with 1 or 2 razors a set of films will last a LONG time.

The other thing I like about lapping films is they get you started by thinking in terms of abrasive particle size, instead of thinking a stone is a “grit” level or a “5k” or something. That type of thinking is flawed because of lack of real standardization across the industry. For example in the olden days everyone in the razor world pushed the Norton 8k water stone as a good finisher, but it has 3mu abrasive in it so the 8k label is sort of a misnomer across the other common stone brands. My 5k rated Suehiro “Rika” stone is 3mu alundum abrasive, and can give an edge that’s a noticeable step up from the Norton that’s rated 8k. So you can see how the labeled “K” stone scale is marketing and not tied to any real scale. Contrast that with films where you’ll use a clearly labeled 3mu particle size film, and based on that if you decide to go stone shopping you’ll know approximately where a 3mu synthetic stone will or won’t work.

IME when people recommend a pretty standard synthetic stone progression, they’re recommending about 15mu, 9mu, 6mu, 3mu, 1mu. You could really get by with 9, 3, 1 but a particle jump of more than a factor of 3 makes it a tough gap to bridge and you’ll end up spending AGES on one stone. Films will go commonly down to .3mu particle, but you’ll have to use “picopaper” under the film and get a good consistent no pressure stroke down or you’ll end up with a harsh feeling edge that wants to bite into your face.

Good luck! Somebody will jump in and volunteer to fix your nice blade, but if they don’t send me a PM and pay shipping and I’ll try to help you out.
 
I agree, definitely send that razor out to get honed. So far as stropping is concerned, perhaps consider a paddle strop. It’s much harder to mess up on.
And if you are looking to move on to a hanging strop you can start with a practice strop with any cheap eBay razor.

Though if you want to be self sufficient with honing but don’t want the rabbit hole that it is consider pasting strops.
Tony Miller and chefknivestogo are great places to start for most of your needs.
 
+1 what AJ said. For most honing tasks you want a progression. 1k is usually the bevel setter. However, with a Gold Dollar you will want to start much coarser to get the heavy lifting done in a timely manner. A regular Gold Dollar is also not the easiest razor to learn on. The newer models are a little easier and a W60 is probably the easiest to hone and most enjoyable to use, out of the brand. A good vintage would be even better.

See this thread for an alternative to stones that will get you in the game cheaper and quicker and with better results. Newbie Honing Compendium | Badger & Blade
Warning... it is a big read.

As for strops, there are lots of strop makers and lots of very good strops. Most newbies destroy their first strop while learning. So, it is very practical and reasonable to first get a very inexpensive one, and upgrade later. Do a search for "The X Bay" brand. Get the "large" one which is actually only 2-1/2" wide but that is sort of adequate. You can't get anything better for the price. He has his own website now and also sells on Amazon and Ebay. Made in Pakistan but don't let that bother you in this case. It is actually a quite usable strop. There are other alternatives such as the "Poor Man Strop Kit" from www.whippeddog.com and you could maybe contact Tony Miller about one of his plain vanilla strops. Beware cheap strops from China on ebay. They are, in my experience, absolutely useless.

Your best bet for your expensive razor would be to send it out. Any member here who says he can hone, can probably hone, or he wouldn't risk his reputation by claiming to have that skill. Post a query in the Strops and Stropping forum and maybe you will get a bite. You could also reach out to Doc226 who seems to be agreeable to taking in honing for a price. What make and model is it? Do post a pic. Everybody likes pics. Make sure it shows any blade etching or tang stamping.
Thanks for all of the advice. I bought a 9 peice lapping kit off Amazon based on what I think is your video on you tube. I also got the GD 1996 for $10.

I'll post some pics and go trough all of this info from all of the posters once I have a day off. I'll also post a pic of my other straight razor. It is a blades of Grim, one of the higher end ones that they make. I wish my wife didnt buy it since I didnt crawl before I ran. I ended up putting a burr in the blade the first time I used it and ruining the strop in an attempt to fix it. That was 3 years ago. Now I want to develop the required skills to use an instrument like that. Plus it'll give me something to do over the winter.

I'll definately have more questions so thanks again for the outreach. Pics coming ASAP
 
I agree, definitely send that razor out to get honed. So far as stropping is concerned, perhaps consider a paddle strop. It’s much harder to mess up on.
And if you are looking to move on to a hanging strop you can start with a practice strop with any cheap eBay razor.

Though if you want to be self sufficient with honing but don’t want the rabbit hole that it is consider pasting strops.
Tony Miller and chefknivestogo are great places to start for most of your needs.
I think I will go with the paddle strop. Thanks for the advice.
 
I don’t do the balsa strop thing for razors, but I 100% agree with slash’s recommendations on starting with lapping film. It’s like grabbing a whole set of temporary synthetic stones for less than the price of one real stone, and with 1 or 2 razors a set of films will last a LONG time.

The other thing I like about lapping films is they get you started by thinking in terms of abrasive particle size, instead of thinking a stone is a “grit” level or a “5k” or something. That type of thinking is flawed because of lack of real standardization across the industry. For example in the olden days everyone in the razor world pushed the Norton 8k water stone as a good finisher, but it has 3mu abrasive in it so the 8k label is sort of a misnomer across the other common stone brands. My 5k rated Suehiro “Rika” stone is 3mu alundum abrasive, and can give an edge that’s a noticeable step up from the Norton that’s rated 8k. So you can see how the labeled “K” stone scale is marketing and not tied to any real scale. Contrast that with films where you’ll use a clearly labeled 3mu particle size film, and based on that if you decide to go stone shopping you’ll know approximately where a 3mu synthetic stone will or won’t work.

IME when people recommend a pretty standard synthetic stone progression, they’re recommending about 15mu, 9mu, 6mu, 3mu, 1mu. You could really get by with 9, 3, 1 but a particle jump of more than a factor of 3 makes it a tough gap to bridge and you’ll end up spending AGES on one stone. Films will go commonly down to .3mu particle, but you’ll have to use “picopaper” under the film and get a good consistent no pressure stroke down or you’ll end up with a harsh feeling edge that wants to bite into your face.

Good luck! Somebody will jump in and volunteer to fix your nice blade, but if they don’t send me a PM and pay shipping and I’ll try to help you out.
Thanks for that offer. I might take you up on it. I dont think the razor needs a whole lot of attention. I just dont know what to do. It does have a warranty but I'd almost rather send it someone on here so I can get feedback on what was required to bring it up to speed.
 
Thanks for that offer. I might take you up on it. I dont think the razor needs a whole lot of attention. I just dont know what to do. It does have a warranty but I'd almost rather send it someone on here so I can get feedback on what was required to bring it up to speed.

If the geometry is ok it’ll just be a few minutes on an upper midrange stone or 3mu, then whatever finisher you want or whatever the blade seems like it’s asking for. I buy too many ebay vintage blades and the majority go straight on a coticule without slurry and are cleaned up in minutes... the few wonky or micro pitted ones take ages on a coarser stone.
 
+1 what AJ said. For most honing tasks you want a progression. 1k is usually the bevel setter. However, with a Gold Dollar you will want to start much coarser to get the heavy lifting done in a timely manner. A regular Gold Dollar is also not the easiest razor to learn on. The newer models are a little easier and a W60 is probably the easiest to hone and most enjoyable to use, out of the brand. A good vintage would be even better.

See this thread for an alternative to stones that will get you in the game cheaper and quicker and with better results. Newbie Honing Compendium | Badger & Blade
Warning... it is a big read.

As for strops, there are lots of strop makers and lots of very good strops. Most newbies destroy their first strop while learning. So, it is very practical and reasonable to first get a very inexpensive one, and upgrade later. Do a search for "The X Bay" brand. Get the "large" one which is actually only 2-1/2" wide but that is sort of adequate. You can't get anything better for the price. He has his own website now and also sells on Amazon and Ebay. Made in Pakistan but don't let that bother you in this case. It is actually a quite usable strop. There are other alternatives such as the "Poor Man Strop Kit" from www.whippeddog.com and you could maybe contact Tony Miller about one of his plain vanilla strops. Beware cheap strops from China on ebay. They are, in my experience, absolutely useless.

Your best bet for your expensive razor would be to send it out. Any member here who says he can hone, can probably hone, or he wouldn't risk his reputation by claiming to have that skill. Post a query in the Strops and Stropping forum and maybe you will get a bite. You could also reach out to Doc226 who seems to be agreeable to taking in honing for a price. What make and model is it? Do post a pic. Everybody likes pics. Make sure it shows any blade etching or tang stamping.
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Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Great pics! But that is an expensive razor? I must be missing something. Still, in for a nickel, in for a buck. Get her honed and have a shave, and do post your impressions of it. There is a lot of controversy over Grim, Classic Shaving, et al. But I am betting it will at least give you a shave and get your hand in the game.
 
Great pics! But that is an expensive razor? I must be missing something. Still, in for a nickel, in for a buck. Get her honed and have a shave, and do post your impressions of it. There is a lot of controversy over Grim, Classic Shaving, et al. But I am betting it will at least give you a shave and get your hand in the game.
She spent around $350 on it if my memory is right. To this day I think it was a rip off. I'd like to start using it just to take away some of the sting of spending that much on what to this point has been a useless item.
 
Great pics! But that is an expensive razor? I must be missing something. Still, in for a nickel, in for a buck. Get her honed and have a shave, and do post your impressions of it. There is a lot of controversy over Grim, Classic Shaving, et al. But I am betting it will at least give you a shave and get your hand in the game.

There is a link to it. Plus it was part of a kit. It came with a brush and strop that I didn't like and a soap that was so so.
 
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