Hollow Again, All!

[SparkyLB]

I'm about to buy my first SE.

I'm familiar with the shapes of the various grinds. I realize the least ground, or "wedge" has the stiffest, least flexible edge. I imagine the full hollow would have the most flexible edge.

What can one expect from the various grinds?. I mean, how is edge flexibility relevant? Does a papery thin, flexible edge have any attributes during the shave that are desirable or preferable over, say a wedge?

I won't ramble. I understand the continuum is very rigid to quite flexible. Is this strictly preference? What's your opinion on your edge?

Thanks!

 

[rbscebu]

First, it is not SE (single edge "safety" razor) but rather SR (straight razor).

What grind you choose for your first SR is your personal preference. It would be hard for you anyone to make an informed choice before buying their first SR. All I can say is that most n00bies start with a half to full hollow grind. Later some move towards extra full hollow, others to quarter hollow/wedge, and others stay with the half and full hollows.

Straight Razor Grind

Introduction

www.badgerandblade.com

Some prefer belly in their grind and some don't. If you haven't tried one or the other, you will never know what your preference is.

 

[Possum092]

Personal preference, you will end up with multiple SRs in a short amount of time. They seem to multiply overnight.

 

[Titleist]

As a recommendation for a first straight razor, I would recommend a 5/8 half or quarter hollow razor. Full hollows tend to be less forgiving to the new-comer.

Personally, a Thiers Issard 5/8 Special Coiffeur would be a great first straight razor.

Just my opinion with over a decade of experience.

 

[Wilkinsmooth]

I'm about to buy my first SE.

I'm familiar with the shapes of the various grinds. I realize the least ground, or "wedge" has the stiffest, least flexible edge. I imagine the full hollow would have the most flexible edge.

What can one expect from the various grinds?. I mean, how is edge flexibility relevant? Does a papery thin, flexible edge have any attributes during the shave that are desirable or preferable over, say a wedge?

I won't ramble. I understand the continuum is very rigid to quite flexible. Is this strictly preference? What's your opinion on your edge?

Thanks!

I’ve been using a straight razor for a few weeks now and I’ve used 3 different blades. From what I’ve learned about the 3, I’d maybe agree that a 5/8 would be a good place to start. My Thiers Issard is a lovely heavy razor, but it is less forgiving than my vintage Solingen blades.

 

[Ravenonrock]

I’ve described Sheffield steel as feeling buttery and for me a heavier grind feels more forgiving and friendly. I did not however learn on such a razor, but have come to appreciate the qualities of this grind.

 

[Alum of Potash]

My take on straights versus safety razors is that it is the "flexibility" of the straight razor's edge that provides the advantage against weepers and irritation, as the safety razor's blade is held "stiff" by the cap and blade. Ergo, you might want to try a ubiquitous full hollow to appreciate this. Extra full-hollow is a bit much IMO, and the thicker wedge 7/8-8/8 grinds run the way of the prevelant "super-size-me" approach that has lead to things like 3"+ wide strops, 26mm+ diameter badger knots, and so forth.

As receiving a shave-ready razor is important to see what that edge is like in starting out, I would recommend ordering a "shave-ready" DOVO full-hollow 5/8 from The Superior Shave (the Dovo-authorized honer and seller in the US) or a "shave-ready" vintage full-hollow 5/8 from Griffith Shaving Goods. My understanding is that the latter hones their razors using tape, which is fine by me for sculpted spines and gold-washed spines. The only thing would be to remember to add tape when returning the razor to the stones (not necessarily a bad thing for honing a straight razor in starting out anyway).

5/8 has an advantage in that it is nimble, allowing for easier access under the nose and jawline (especially if one has a gaunt angular face). 4/8 is a little too nimble in this regard and harder to strop. A heavier half or 3/4-grind 6/8 may be better in letting the razor do the work in starting out, and does have more heft. But for me, the 5/8 has the best of both worlds.

That leaves a strop. Like others have said, a cheap one in starting out is best as a beginner risks to ruin it. Also, I would suggest shaving for the first time with a "shave-ready" razor without stropping it yourself, as improper stropping risks to ruin the edge. Only start to strop after the first shave in using the razor for the first time. (Here, it wouldn't hurt to request the seller to strop it for you prior to shipping out the "shave-ready" razor, if he hasn't done so already.)

 

[SparkyLB]

I’ve described Sheffield steel as feeling buttery and for me a heavier grind feels more forgiving and friendly. I did not however learn on such a razor, but have come to appreciate the qualities of this grind.

So I understand, by heavier grind one means full-hollow is heavier than half-hollow, correct?

First, it is not SE (single edge "safety" razor) but rather SR (straight razor).

What grind you choose for your first SR is your personal preference. It would be hard for you anyone to make an informed choice before buying their first SR. All I can say is that most n00bies start with a half to full hollow grind. Later some move towards extra full hollow, others to quarter hollow/wedge, and others stay with the half and full hollows.

Straight Razor Grind

Introduction

www.badgerandblade.com

Some prefer belly in their grind and some don't. If you haven't tried one or the other, you will never know what your preference is.

Thank you for that excellent reference!! Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you also for the correction.

Personal preference, you will end up with multiple SRs in a short amount of time. They seem to multiply overnight.

Roger that.

 

[Ravenonrock]

So I understand, by heavier grind one means full-hollow is heavier than half-hollow, correct?


Thank you for that excellent reference!! Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you also for the correction.


Roger that.

A heavier grind for me is wedge or near wedge. Full hollow would have a thinner blade, half hollow, more robust and so on.

 

[SparkyLB]

A heavier grind for me is wedge or near wedge. Full hollow would have a thinner blade, half hollow, more robust and so on.

Thank you. I understand--I'm still learning the vernacular. I had it backwards in my mind when I assumed a "heavy grind" meant more material ground off.

 

[Ravenonrock]

Thank you. I understand--I'm still learning the vernacular. I had it backwards in my mind when I assumed a "heavy grind" meant more material ground off.

It can get confusing, as some full hollow grinds can actually be substantial and rigid as I’m happily finding with a Japanese SR I’ve recently begun to use. There are some good charts and examples of SR grinds if you search it.