Help with my first restore. and its a Swede

[ACorazza]

Today my new eBay razor came. It was a little risky because there wasn't much information or pictures posted but going off of the good things I heard about Heljestrand I went for it. I think it is one of their earlier models, a frame back. It needs a little work though and I have no experience. The problem is that it needs new scales. The ones on their now are just cheap plastic white scales and they are slightly too short because the sometimes the razor hits the wedge. They are also extremely loose and i figured if i have to take off the the scales I might as well restore the blade a little bit too.

When I was messing around with the blade I noticed that if I push the back half on one side of the blade, i can feel it shift inside the frame, is this something to be worried about. I tried pulling on it and other than the little push it seems pretty secure.

This is my first restore and I don't have any of the necessary tools. I found a 4oz ball-peen hammer on amazon and I can get sandpaper from the hardware store, but from what I understand, I need a Dremel in order to remove the scales from the blade. Can anyone recommend one that is good for a beginner, I don't plan on using it for anything else so as long as it can handle some razor restores it should be good. It would be nice if it was smallish too. I plan to do the sanding all by hand to if that helps.

Also where can I find scales to fit the razor, I saw some TI replacement scales but don't know if they would fit. Other than the washers and rods is there anything else I would need for this restore.
Thanks, and heres a few pics of the razor(It tapers from 7/8 at the toe to 5/8 at the heel)

 

[global_dev]

Today my new eBay razor came. It was a little risky because there wasn't much information or pictures posted but going off of the good things I heard about Heljestrand I went for it. I think it is one of their earlier models, a frame back. It needs a little work though and I have no experience. The problem is that it needs new scales. The ones on their now are just cheap plastic white scales and they are slightly too short because the sometimes the razor hits the wedge. They are also extremely loose and i figured if i have to take off the the scales I might as well restore the blade a little bit too.

When I was messing around with the blade I noticed that if I push the back half on one side of the blade, i can feel it shift inside the frame, is this something to be worried about. I tried pulling on it and other than the little push it seems pretty secure.

This is my first restore and I don't have any of the necessary tools. I found a 4oz ball-peen hammer on amazon and I can get sandpaper from the hardware store, but from what I understand, I need a Dremel in order to remove the scales from the blade. Can anyone recommend one that is good for a beginner, I don't plan on using it for anything else so as long as it can handle some razor restores it should be good. It would be nice if it was smallish too. I plan to do the sanding all by hand to if that helps.

Also where can I find scales to fit the razor, I saw some TI replacement scales but don't know if they would fit. Other than the washers and rods is there anything else I would need for this restore.
Thanks, and heres a few pics of the razor(It tapers from 7/8 at the toe to 5/8 at the heel)

nice razor, don't need a dremel to remove scales, maybe a flush cutter or a file. BTW a dremel can easily crack or de-temper a blade (i know you said scales, but just wanted to give a warning)

the ti scales easily fit a 6/8s blade, but that that spine looks like it would take up a large portion of of that 7/8s which is not typical of non-frame backs. so if the length of the edge is good to fit in the scales, then probably average size replacement scales might work.

don't know about the movement, doesn't look like there is a screw, but your pic isn't too clear. i doubt it's an issue.

all you need should be sandpaper, cutters, and hammer, pin rod and washers..

BTW is the wedge sitting correctly? it looks a bit warped and i wonder if the scales have shrank.

 

[mycarver]

That pretty much covers it. The play you feel may be caused by the hole in the shaft being slightly bigger than the pin if I understand the situation correctly. This is common and nothing to worry about.

 

[ACorazza]

nice razor, don't need a dremel to remove scales, maybe a flush cutter or a file. BTW a dremel can easily crack or de-temper a blade (i know you said scales, but just wanted to give a warning)

the ti scales easily fit a 6/8s blade, but that that spine looks like it would take up a large portion of of that 7/8s which is not typical of non-frame backs. so if the length of the edge is good to fit in the scales, then probably average size replacement scales might work.

don't know about the movement, doesn't look like there is a screw, but your pic isn't too clear. i doubt it's an issue.

all you need should be sandpaper, cutters, and hammer, pin rod and washers..

BTW is the wedge sitting correctly? it looks a bit warped and i wonder if the scales have shrank.

There is no screw in front which was why I was worried because that means that it is a fixed blade but I don't think it will be an issue bit still feels pretty stable. I think I will wait on the Dremel for now but ill pick up the other materials and get to work. I think I will worry about the blade first and when I'm happy with that ill move on to the scales pins and washers. Also the wedge kind of looks like it shifted now that you mention it and the scales probably shrank but i wanna replace them anyway. Thanks again guys you're really helpful.

 

[global_dev]

honestly, not exactly sure why you want to "restore" it now, other than scales which isn't so bad, it looks pretty good for use. maybe some mother's polish or toothpaste or something polishy, not abrasivey.. and just hone it up.

 

[ACorazza]

honestly, not exactly sure why you want to "restore" it now, other than scales which isn't so bad, it looks pretty good for use. maybe some mother's polish or toothpaste or something polishy, not abrasivey.. and just hone it up.

It isn't really in need of a full restore and I actually have a Henkels from Whippeddog that is much more discolored but I kind of wanna see how nice I can make it. I figure it will be easier to do a restore when I already have to take the blade out of the scales. There is no pitting just discoloration and some rust by the pivot pin. If I end up doing a full restoration what grit sandpaper should i start with I was thinking either 220 or 320. Also would any type of toothpaste work as a polish because I might just try that and see how bad the blade is after a polishing?

 

[global_dev]

It isn't really in need of a full restore and I actually have a Henkels from Whippeddog that is much more discolored but I kind of wanna see how nice I can make it. I figure it will be easier to do a restore when I already have to take the blade out of the scales. There is no pitting just discoloration and some rust by the pivot pin. If I end up doing a full restoration what grit sandpaper should i start with I was thinking either 220 or 320. Also would any type of toothpaste work as a polish because I might just try that and see how bad the blade is after a polishing?

you'd be surprise what a bit of mothers mag polish or maas will do, sometimes things get pretty. I imagine any toothpast will do.

the range of wet dry (W/D) people recommend goes from ~100-2000, and not always are all recommended, you go lower when there is a lot of pitting thats deep, and perhaps start at higher when it's very superficial and see how it goes. yours doesn't look like you have any pitting, so maybe some maas or scrubbing bubbles or something in the high range (500-800?) "spot" sandfor a bit and see how it goes. if it isn't enough the go lower. it would be a shame to start to low and then try to work out the deep scratches.

check out this thread http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/335622-What-grit-progression

perhaps the experts will chime in and provide better advice.

 

[ACorazza]

I tried scrubbing bubbles and toothpaste but they didn't really work so I placed an amazon order for the stuff ill need. I bought a 4oz ball peen hammer, flush cutter, metal file, and sandpaper 220,320,400,600,800,1000,1200,1500. I'm gonna start with 600 and go from there. Thanks again everyone ill post again after I've made some progress

 

[global_dev]

good for you! gotta try to see what does and doesnt work. the file is nice to have when you don't want to accidentally mess up scales and a flush cutter can't get into a too tight pin.. i know you aren't trying to save the scales, but in the future if you are trying to salvage them , i have seen two techniques other than straight filing away. one is to cover with painters tape, so an off scratch won't grab the scale or a thin metal sheet with a 1/8 or so hole that the washer fits through with the same intent of making sure you don't mess up the scales.

flusher cutters though work really well if you are careful on most scales that you don't intend on re-using..

 

[ACorazza]

I got some tools an was able to take off the scales using a file. I noticed there is rust around the pivot hole. I believe it is active rust because of the color but I maybe wrong. Since the rest of the blade is in better condition I wanted to start at a higher grit sandpaper (600) but I think I need to go lower (320) to get the rust off. If I go to a lower grit around the pivot hole do I have to use the 320 on he entire blade or can I use it just in the spot that needs it and then progress upward. Any suggestions?

 

[Kailand09]

You should be able to, in my opinion though I am relatively inexperienced, finish the tang and around the pin from 320 up to 600 and go from there as long as you remove any stray scratches.

To be honest, someone else might chime in, but you may want to go over the whole thing with 320 or 400 anyway if there is any pitting. I'm on a phone and can't scrutinize to see any but it definitely will help laying a foundation for the higher grit.

 

[ACorazza]

Tonight I did my first ever sanding on the blade. I started at 320 around the pivot and tang. The rust came off easily but there was dark stubborn tarnish underneath it so I kept on 320. I ended up do the entire blade with 320 grit. It looks much cleaner now but there are still some dark spots that I cannot get clean. If I leave these spots and start progressing upward I'm guessing the spots will stay so I'm going to try a new piece of 320 grit tomorrow(I think the one i was using started to get worn out). How often are you supposed to change into a new piece of sandpaper at the same grit? And are there any suggestions on a way to get the rest of the tarnish out, or on sanding technique?

On a side note the play that I had originally felt in the blade went away after I took the scales off and the blade itself is rock solid. I'm amazed at the engineering put into these blade so long ago that allows it to still be so solid (any guesses on when Heljestrand made this razor. It has 1855 and 1867 stamped on it).

 

[Kailand09]

That looks really good, and from what I've read those CVH framebacks are superb.

I'm glad you went and did the whole thing at 320, it really will make a difference with those dark spots. When I did the last restore, I tried to care less about how much sandpaper I was using. Generally, I would fold and tear out about an inch of paper at a time (and fold that in half) in order to use paper efficiently. From there, whenever you stop hearing the same sound the paper was making when you first put the fresh paper to it, give it a bit more elbow grease and then I'd switch it out. I still saved those used ones though for places that you don't want to go so harsh on (such as jimps if you think you're getting at them too fast).

Just keep at it at 320 and you should be OK, but it might take a little while... "take your time" and when you think you're done, I found going tang to tip on the blade in the same direction every time to finish off each grit worked quite well, it helps to even out all your scratches. Make sure they are smooth, deliberate strokes that follow the shape of the blade/frame. This is not to say during the heavy sanding though, go multiple directions or whatever you gotta do to get out those nasty discolorations.

 

[ACorazza]

That looks really good, and from what I've read those CVH framebacks are superb.

I'm glad you went and did the whole thing at 320, it really will make a difference with those dark spots. When I did the last restore, I tried to care less about how much sandpaper I was using. Generally, I would fold and tear out about an inch of paper at a time (and fold that in half) in order to use paper efficiently. From there, whenever you stop hearing the same sound the paper was making when you first put the fresh paper to it, give it a bit more elbow grease and then I'd switch it out. I still saved those used ones though for places that you don't want to go so harsh on (such as jimps if you think you're getting at them too fast).

Just keep at it at 320 and you should be OK, but it might take a little while... "take your time" and when you think you're done, I found going tang to tip on the blade in the same direction every time to finish off each grit worked quite well, it helps to even out all your scratches. Make sure they are smooth, deliberate strokes that follow the shape of the blade/frame. This is not to say during the heavy sanding though, go multiple directions or whatever you gotta do to get out those nasty discolorations.

Thanks. Going in different directions is what I was worried about so I kept trying to stay with one direction but ill take your advice of smoothing it out before I'm ready to move on.

 

[Kailand09]

Let us know how it goes. Don't be afraid to apply a little bit of pressure at least too, to moderate pressure. With the hollowed razors and frame backs (that's all I have experience with) you have to be careful, but with proper support on the blade you can use some. It is steel after all, and will require a good amount of work to get rid of all that.

I forgot to mention, while most of the work and getting stuff out happens at the low grit, every grit all the way up still removes some material. If you decide to leave some really stubborn marks, who knows they may come out after all is done. If not, it happens.

 

[ACorazza]

I finally had some time to do more hand sanding. I kept at 320 a little more and then moved to 400 using mostly horizontal strokes. (I think I missed some scratches here but ill talk about that later). Next I went to 600 grit using vertical strokes. This began to leave a machined type finish on the blade. You can see what 600 grit looks like in the pictures. The first reflection shot and the first blade shot were done at 600 grit. Next I moved to 800 grit using horizontal strokes again. This step seemed to use more sandpaper than the 600 grit in order to get the scratches out. I was able to get most of them out leaving a decent finish.

It looks almost like satin but when held up like a mirror the image is not that distorted (FYI the reflection is the top of my hair in both pictures). Although the scratch marks are fairly uniform there are some random scratches that can be seen under certain light. I think I missed these between 320 and 400. I don't plan on going back to fix them unless they look really off at the end because these imperfections remind me that it was my first restore and if the age of the razor, just like some of the pitting which I left. Because the 800 grit took a while I was only able to do it on one side of the razor and I'm not even finished yet. Let me know what you think. I haven't counted but I think I have done close to 4 or 5 hours of on and off hand sanding so far incase anyone was wondering b

On a side note I'm gonna have to look for sales soon because I plan on finishing this within the next two weeks. Any recommendations on premade scales because I'm not really set up to start making my own yet. If I don't find anything I like I may just send it out to be scaled and honed.

 

[mycarver]

It's a labor of love. 4-5 hours for a blade you'll have the rest of your life. Fair exchange I'd say. it's looking good.

 

[ACorazza]

It's a labor of love. 4-5 hours for a blade you'll have the rest of your life. Fair exchange I'd say. it's looking good.

Thanks. Ya the sanding isn't that bad because I always have music or a movie playing and it goes by pretty quick which is good because I plan on going to 1500 grit. Btw Mark your work is very impressive. Everything I see looks brand new.

 

[ACorazza]

I finally finished the sanding. I progressed up to 1500 grit and the blade has somewhat of a mirror polish, but at the moment it looks like a foggy mirror because I don't have any polish. Does a polish or buffing really make that much of a difference if all you're using is something like Mother's polish? Overall I'm pretty happy, even though its not perfect it is much better than the condition in which I bought it, and the imperfections will remind me of how much I improved it. I included two of the old pictures for comparison even though they are at the top of thread.

 

[global_dev]

mother's is not gonna make much of a difference. it helps shiny things up but i don't think it has mirror like action using it the way i do.. which is apply and buff off by hand.. works on fingerprints and light and recent water spots for me.

the blade looks nice and polish or buffing really do make that much of a difference, but not everyone or every blade looks good in full on mirror.. the factory finish on many straights is nice, but not mirror. sometimes it looks not so hot in my opinion.. especially when coupled by loss of angles... and once you notice the softening of the angles it's impossible to look away or not notice.