Help Trying to Replicate an Epiphany Moment...

[FloorPizza]

It's a bit of a long story, so I'm going to shorten it significantly.

My Dad taught me how to shave when I was 14 years old, starting me out on his old Gillette Red Dot Fat Boy.

I quickly switched to an electric for many years. One day my trusty old Braun electric died on me. My Dad asked me why I was looking so scruffy. I told him what happened, and that I was going to go out and replace my electric with another electric. He mentioned that the most comfortable BBS combination he'd ever found was with that Red Dot Fat Boy and Gillette Platinum Plus blades. I borrowed his razor that day. It turned out to be one of those epiphany moments; using the 1 and 2 settings with a fresh blade, I had a completely BBS shave that was *incredibly* comfortable.

He had several of those razors, so he gave me one. I shaved with it for years until I left it in a hotel room, never to be seen again.

I've bought several DE's since then, but never a Fat Boy... I know, I should just break down and get one, but what I'd rather do is find out from you guys what options could be considered to replicate the Fat Boy and Platinum Plus combination.

First, the razor. It needs to be adjustable from very, very gentle to aggressive enough to take on a week's worth of growth.

Second, the blade. Those old Gillette Platinum Plus blades were amazing. But unfortunately, they haven't been made for years. What do you guys consider to be a blade that performs closely to it?

I've dabbled here and there in DE's over the years, but haven't ever found that magic combination again.

I travel a lot, but when I'm home I shave with a small collection of straight razors that I've accumulated over the years. I've been shaving frequently with straights since 2008.

I also have a wide variety of razor hones (Naniwa Chosera 1k, 3k, 5k and 10k, two very nice coticules, various lapping films, pastes, four sided pasted paddle strop, Latigo leather strop, web strop that is bare on one side, and CrO2 on the other). So yes, I have *a lot* more experience with straight razors than I do with DE's. But I'm tired of the cartridge tax (and since I travel a lot, that's a significant expense), so I've decided that I'd really like to find a nice adjustable DE that has a decent range of adjustment, with more emphasis on the gentle side than the aggressive side of things if necessary. I know it seems odd that a straight user would be wanting a DE that has a very mild profile, but trust me on this, it's really what I'd like. And again, adjustable for those days when you find yourself needing to take off several days of growth with a DE.

I currently have a 1927 or 1928 Gillette, a Gillette Slim Adjustable from the 1980's (which I truly hate), and just recently got a Qshave Parthenon (my opinion: meh). The '27-'28 Gillette was my Grandfather's, and it gives a decent shave... definitely the best of the razors I currently have.

As I mentioned, I know I should just break down and buy a vintage Fat Boy or Red Dot Fat Boy, but I would certainly like to know what other options to consider in order to attempt to replicate that old wonderful combo of Fat Boy and Platinum Plus.

I'd like to keep it around the fifty dollar mark or so, but I'd go a bit higher for something truly worthwhile.

I guess that's all just a long winded way to say that I'd like to find the most gentle adjustable DE razor(s) out there, along with a modern equivalent of the Gillette Platinum Plus blade.

Thanks in advance for any advice and opinions.

 

[Stoneman]

For around $50 you could try

1) Merkur Progress
2) Parker Variant
3) Rockwell 6C - this one you change base plates instead of a dial adjuster.

All 3 are good but ymmv.

 

[Invicta]

Gillette Slim Adjustable from the 1980's (which I truly hate)

Why do you hate it?
It seems to me you have enough razors but not found a good blade for your shaving needs. Bear in mind your stubble has changed over the years so that combination you thought was good may not be suitable anymore. Get a blade sampler and you should find a few blades you like.

 

[John Rose]

First, let me just say I'm sorry for your loss (of the Red Dot).

It needs to be adjustable from very, very gentle to aggressive enough to take on a week's worth of growth.

I don't think you need an especially aggressive razor for long growth, but an open comb razor is just the ticket, since it doesn't bend the hair down in advance like a guard bar would.

 

[Sharp_Obsession]

For a $50 price range, it's hard to beat vintage. You could definitely replicate it with a REX Ambassador to the tune of $250 (or $200 with a good sale). I also like the French vintage adjustable razor by Gibbs, 15 or 17 or unmarked (the numbers get confusing and don't mean much) just make sure it is the chrome version and not the brass. It will be difficult to find one in the $50 range, but with work you could find one in the $60-75 range. In full disclosure you have to modify modern razor blades to use with the razor, but it isn't hard to do. I've never tried a Rockwell 6c, but that would be right at your $50 target. It comes with 3 base plates that each can be reversed for 6 different aggressiveness options. It's a zamak coated razor which doesn't have as nice a build quality as the vintage razors. Stepping up to the Rockwell 6S will cost you double ($100) but is stainless. I personally went with the Karve Christopher Bradley which is brass and will cost you ~$75 ($100 CAD) for the razor and ~$22.50 per additional baseplate ($30 CAD) to make it adjustable. If you aren't looking for a lot of adjustable option a Razorock Game Changer is a great razor made of stainless and the 0.68 gap would be a nice mild razor to start with and is only $55. There is a 0.84 version and you can buy the head alone. The head will cost you $30. Honestly most people are comfortable starting with a mild razor like the 0.68 and advancing to a 0.84. Honestly though, the Fat Boy is a great razor and you might be best tracking down one of those, probably in the $65 or more range. A red dot much, much, much more.

For blades I really like Polsilver Super Iridiums. Gillette Silver Blue blades are really nice too. But a blade sample pack from a vendor would be the best option to find the best blade for you.

 

[nemo]

Buy another Fatboy on eBay and find some Spoilers. That ought to do it.

A Slim would be cheaper but you could do it either way <$50

 

[Strayhair]

You could look at SE and a Schick Adjustable. My dad still talks about getting it stolen from his hotel room.

 

[mawashi]

It's a bit of a long story, so I'm going to shorten it significantly.

My Dad taught me how to shave when I was 14 years old, starting me out on his old Gillette Red Dot Fat Boy.

I quickly switched to an electric for many years. One day my trusty old Braun electric died on me. My Dad asked me why I was looking so scruffy. I told him what happened, and that I was going to go out and replace my electric with another electric. He mentioned that the most comfortable BBS combination he'd ever found was with that Red Dot Fat Boy and Gillette Platinum Plus blades. I borrowed his razor that day. It turned out to be one of those epiphany moments; using the 1 and 2 settings with a fresh blade, I had a completely BBS shave that was *incredibly* comfortable.

He had several of those razors, so he gave me one. I shaved with it for years until I left it in a hotel room, never to be seen again.

I've bought several DE's since then, but never a Fat Boy... I know, I should just break down and get one, but what I'd rather do is find out from you guys what options could be considered to replicate the Fat Boy and Platinum Plus combination.

First, the razor. It needs to be adjustable from very, very gentle to aggressive enough to take on a week's worth of growth.

Second, the blade. Those old Gillette Platinum Plus blades were amazing. But unfortunately, they haven't been made for years. What do you guys consider to be a blade that performs closely to it?

I've dabbled here and there in DE's over the years, but haven't ever found that magic combination again.

I travel a lot, but when I'm home I shave with a small collection of straight razors that I've accumulated over the years. I've been shaving frequently with straights since 2008.

I also have a wide variety of razor hones (Naniwa Chosera 1k, 3k, 5k and 10k, two very nice coticules, various lapping films, pastes, four sided pasted paddle strop, Latigo leather strop, web strop that is bare on one side, and CrO2 on the other). So yes, I have *a lot* more experience with straight razors than I do with DE's. But I'm tired of the cartridge tax (and since I travel a lot, that's a significant expense), so I've decided that I'd really like to find a nice adjustable DE that has a decent range of adjustment, with more emphasis on the gentle side than the aggressive side of things if necessary. I know it seems odd that a straight user would be wanting a DE that has a very mild profile, but trust me on this, it's really what I'd like. And again, adjustable for those days when you find yourself needing to take off several days of growth with a DE.

I currently have a 1927 or 1928 Gillette, a Gillette Slim Adjustable from the 1980's (which I truly hate), and just recently got a Qshave Parthenon (my opinion: meh). The '27-'28 Gillette was my Grandfather's, and it gives a decent shave... definitely the best of the razors I currently have.

As I mentioned, I know I should just break down and buy a vintage Fat Boy or Red Dot Fat Boy, but I would certainly like to know what other options to consider in order to attempt to replicate that old wonderful combo of Fat Boy and Platinum Plus.

I'd like to keep it around the fifty dollar mark or so, but I'd go a bit higher for something truly worthwhile.

I guess that's all just a long winded way to say that I'd like to find the most gentle adjustable DE razor(s) out there, along with a modern equivalent of the Gillette Platinum Plus blade.

Thanks in advance for any advice and opinions.

A red dot is a bit harder to find and rather more expensive... rather crazy prices unfortunately.

$50 won't get you a red dot unless you are extremely lucky or a seller incorrectly labels his item on the bay, they go for above $500 - $900 there-bouts. However, $50 will easily get you a fat boy but in so so condition.

I agree a parker variant could be a very good and inexpensive modern alternative however, there are potentially some qc issues.

There are some razors that when they are suited to you, are pretty much untouchable. Fat boy, New SC / LCs, Fatips (notorious QC issues though), Parker variant (some qc issues), Aristocrats etc.

If I was you I'll just take the plunge and get a fatboy and a new SC or a Karve.
Ultimate Karve Buyers' Guide

Cheers,

Mawashi

 

[THall]

First time I tried the vintage Platinum Plus blades were from an NOS set that came with my wife’s Lady Gillette I got her from 1971. She insisted on using my brand new blades and I was happy to oblige.

Turned out, really happy. Those blades outperformed any blade I have ever used including my favorite go to blades. They also lasted well over 2 weeks per blade. I could have probably stretched it out longer.

I asked about any modern equivalent on here back then and no one who used the vintage PPs could give me a good answer. I had the same experience with the PPs that came with my 1973 NOS Super 84.

As far as longevity, I can say the Lab Blues can get me 2 weeks without too much trouble but don’t match the performance. Only issue with the Lab Blues are they are a little finicky with my razors, only seem to get smooth shaves with my .84 Game Changer and Old Type. The PPs made in Brazil I used were similar in name only.

With your razor budget, you could definitely score a solid Slim with no brassing. If you are patient, a good Fatboy could fall to you. Since I’m done buying vintages, I’ll share my secret. If you are looking for a razor on auction sites, go to the auction stores of people who tend to sell antiques of all kinds, avoid the vintage razor sellers. The general antique sellers tend to just be moving their merchandise they picked up from estate sales and may not know enough about how most razors can look mint after a good cleaning.

Of course, plenty of good deals here on B & B for those of us trimming our rotations. As far as a modern adjustable, can’t go wrong with the Variant. With my face, it is slightly better than my Fatboy. The Variant falls to my SA but not by a wide margin. I only prefer my vintage Gillettes because I don’t have to take my time and be more careful.

 

[FloorPizza]

First time I tried the vintage Platinum Plus blades were from an NOS set that came with my wife’s Lady Gillette I got her from 1971. She insisted on using my brand new blades and I was happy to oblige.

Turned out, really happy. Those blades outperformed any blade I have ever used including my favorite go to blades. They also lasted well over 2 weeks per blade. I could have probably stretched it out longer.

I asked about any modern equivalent on here back then and no one who used the vintage PPs could give me a good answer. I had the same experience with the PPs that came with my 1973 NOS Super 84.

It is just a terrible shame that Gillette no longer makes the original Platinum Plus. It was absolutely, without a doubt, *the* most superior blade on the market. I still have three blades left. Maybe someday I'll actually use one of them, but probably not (and no, I won't sell even one of them to anyone ).

I have on order no less than three different blade samplers. Around 100 or so blades I believe.

I appreciate the help, gents. You guys have given me a lot to think about.

 

[les24preludes]

If you say your Old Type from the '20s is your current favourite, then just get a Fatip OC like Grande, Piccolo or Retro. You can use the Fatip baseplate with the Old Type top cap and handle as well, and you could then put some money into a really good handle that suits your grip. Adjustables are for some but not others, and a 3-piece razor opens the door to some really good handles, e.g. titanium.

 

[romsitsa]

Merkur Progress, if you don’t mind that it possibly won’t last that long. Or a Chinese version of the Merkur Futur, although some have alignement issues.

Adam

 

[BigJ]

Buy another Fatboy on eBay and find some Spoilers. That ought to do it.

+1! This is the ‘obvious’ choice!!

 

[FloorPizza]

Why do you hate it?
It seems to me you have enough razors but not found a good blade for your shaving needs. Bear in mind your stubble has changed over the years so that combination you thought was good may not be suitable anymore. Get a blade sampler and you should find a few blades you like.

I didn't always hate it, which makes me think that your blade theory might be correct. Dad kept me in Platinum Plus blades for several years after they went out of production; he had a huge stock pile, and at one blade every two weeks, it lasted for a very long time. That razor, when paired with the PP blade, shaved well back then. But now, it doesn't matter what blade I put in it (keeping in mind I've only tried a limited number of blade types), or how mild the setting, it tears me up every time. It just won't go gentle enough, even on setting one. The straight user in me thinks, "too dull of a blade at too large of an angle" every time I shave with it. I think I might need to send it in to someone that can do a "tune up" on it, as it seems to me that setting number one doesn't go nearly as gentle as it should.

 

[FloorPizza]

Buy another Fatboy on eBay and find some Spoilers. That ought to do it.

A Slim would be cheaper but you could do it either way <$50

Pardon the ignorance, but who are Spoilers made by? I have yet to come across that blade type yet.

This is the direction I'm leaning.

Edit: Ah, I see... the Gillette Super Stainless. Those are the blades I switched to after my stock of Platinum Plus ran out. I believe they're no longer made? I'd like to find a blade that is currently produced.

I shaved with SS for quite a while after the PP's ran out.

 

[matwho]

I didn't always hate it, which makes me think that your blade theory might be correct. Dad kept me in Platinum Plus blades for several years after they went out of production; he had a huge stock pile, and at one blade every two weeks, it lasted for a very long time. That razor, when paired with the PP blade, shaved well back then. But now, it doesn't matter what blade I put in it (keeping in mind I've only tried a limited number of blade types), or how mild the setting, it tears me up every time. It just won't go gentle enough, even on setting one. The straight user in me thinks, "too dull of a blade at too large of an angle" every time I shave with it. I think I might need to send it in to someone that can do a "tune up" on it, as it seems to me that setting number one doesn't go nearly as gentle as it should.

Your razor might be overclocked. You might want to read this. /www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/overclocking-fatboys-or-slims.334891/

 

[TADIII]

@FloorPizza , did your father really have several Red Dot Fat Boys, or are you remembering the red detente spring of the regular Fat Boy?
The Red Dot's mechanism was more like a Toggle than a 195 Fat Boy. The standard ('58-'61) Fat Boys are pretty available and affordable, while the real (D1) Red Dots are scarce and dear.
I bought my first Slim in January of 1966 and shaved with it for the next 47 and a half years; after I used up the Gillette blades that came with it I switched to Wilkinson Sword blades and never went back to Gillette blades, so my estimation of what a comparable blade for you would be is probably not valid. I find the current Russian Gillette Silver Blue blades to be nice, but they are not in my top three. You are going to have to find the razor you like, and then cycle some blades through - the razor and the blade will both tell you when you have made the match.
And...if your '80s adjustable has a black handle, it is probably a Super Adjustable, rather than a Slim.
Best of luck.
Tom

 

[nemo]

Pardon the ignorance, but who are Spoilers made by? I have yet to come across that blade type yet ... I believe they're no longer made? I'd like to find a blade that is currently produced.

eBay is your friend if you're looking for that nostalgic shave. I only mentioned Spoilers as they're somewhat easier to find. As far as a modern blade, pick up some Polsilvers.

Under $50 below ...

Not a Red Dot, for sure, but let's also be realistic!

 

[FloorPizza]

@FloorPizza , did your father really have several Red Dot Fat Boys, or are you remembering the red detente spring of the regular Fat Boy?
The Red Dot's mechanism was more like a Toggle than a 195 Fat Boy. The standard ('58-'61) Fat Boys are pretty available and affordable, while the real (D1) Red Dots are scarce and dear.
I bought my first Slim in January of 1966 and shaved with it for the next 47 and a half years; after I used up the Gillette blades that came with it I switched to Wilkinson Sword blades and never went back to Gillette blades, so my estimation of what a comparable blade for you would be is probably not valid. I find the current Russian Gillette Silver Blue blades to be nice, but they are not in my top three. You are going to have to find the razor you like, and then cycle some blades through - the razor and the blade will both tell you when you have made the match.
And...if your '80s adjustable has a black handle, it is probably a Super Adjustable, rather than a Slim.
Best of luck.
Tom

Yes, he did have several Red Dots. He had over a dozen Gillette razors that he bought through the 50's and 60's. Growing up, I'd sit on the bathroom floor and watch him shave. He'd hand me a razor that I picked out to play with (without a blade, of course) while I watched. I'd sit there and compare every glorious little detail between them.

Dad will be 89 this year. I just don't have the heart to ask him if he still has his old Gillettes.

And yes, I made a mistake regarding my current razor.... it is, in fact, a Super Adjustable. I don't know why I typed Slim Adjustable.

 

[Invicta]

I think I might need to send it in to someone that can do a "tune up" on it, as it seems to me that setting number one doesn't go nearly as gentle as it should.

It might be over clocked. Check if the riser bar goes up and down between settings 1 and 9. There is an easy way to unclock it but I cannot find the thread.
However, a change in blade may be the fix you are looking for.