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Help Removing Rust

Hello,
I have this shave ready Dovo Straight Razor with what I believe is rust on the blade.
Can anyone help me with:

1. Identifying if it is really rust or something else
2. Helping me with the best method to remove it without ruining the edge. (As you can see in one of the pictures, the rust is close to the edge)

I have read that you can do it with sand paper, but I don't know what grit number to use or if it will ruin the edge and the marking.

Any comments will be helpful.
Thanks
 

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first, i might start with a pencil carbon to scratch the surface, then polish like flitz or mothers (with qtips) to see what happens (staining), if it's really deeper than just staining may start with 1K-2K w/d (i like to use a cork to wrap paper around), but if it's deep then obviously need to start somewhere, it's gonna take some time.

some folks use rust erasers, fiberglass pencils, ect

second, i don't know if it's he picture, shadows, etc. but kind of looks like there might be a frown, so saving it may not a huge issue. can you tell if in person it looks straight?

tbh, usually when i "clean up" something like this i end up needing to cut a new bevel, sometimes to protect me from a sharp edge other times i end up working the bevel a bit accidentally (are is small).

you could try using a pencil eraser as the medium to attach small circles of w/d to try to mitigate touching the edge.
 
Thank you, it doesn't have a frown and it was honed at whipped dog.

So it might be removed with just the carbon pencil and the polish? And if it doesn't, I should move to the sand paper?
 
glad to hear it's not a frown.

i have removed light staining with pencil and polish in the past. sometimes i use the pencil to knock off some oxidation, but it is still there. I don't mind "patina" on some razors, sometimes it just to be there for whatever reason.

TBH, that doesn't look like the typical older rust. Can you remove whatever that petroleum jelly stuff is? That would probably help to give better guidance. Based on the similar colouring on the tang, it's hard to tell how active the rust is, could be recent, but the corner of the hollow/tang looks deeper( very hard to tell with those pics). it could even be some weird pooling of water that wipes off with polish, just a thought. again get rid of the jelly and take a more focused picture

hand sanding takes a lot of time and effort, if it's really light you can start at a higher grit and try, and if it isn't responding after enough time, you can go lower to start. you don't want to go too low and have to get out deep scratches that may not have needed to happen. (typically grit progressions use 80, 120, 220, 400, 800, 1500) i recently started one off at 400 or 500 and it was ok, just enough to smooth out the oxidation, but a lot of it remained as patina. Good Luck!
 
It is not older rust, the razor shouldn't be more than 5 years old.
Do you think it is safe to shave with it? The only reason I am not using it, is because I think the rust would be bad for me.

Thanks Again
 

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i think it's pretty much safe, imho. i'd rather it was black (like the spot near the toe). however, that looks not very deep, pretty superficial.

try the pencil, see what happens. give it a good carbon scrub! not much to lose.

if no one else chimes in, you could try the polish, but i'd start in the 1000-1500 grit w/d wet with a gentle touch.
 
that would be an immediate candidate for my dremel and porter cable polishing compound.

I know a lot probably cringe when I say this; however, maybe i should take the time to explain my process. not grinding, not abrasive stone wheels.

I use the felt wheels (which are available in different shapes and diameters). I protect the edge by laying it on a little wood block i use.

the other benefit of the felt wheels is little no heat buildup.

my friend #5

20200625_204143.jpg


the only drawback obviously is that it will remove paint and lessen etchings......so you have to consider aesthetics versus historical value. I dont like rust.

as a kid I remember playing with emery cloth.....dont know how available this is now. I recently have learned of another medium called CROCUS cloth which I am very interested in as a final finish. you can bet your buffalo nickel i will have some very soon.

with all this said I'm not sure if you want to invest in the stuff or tools to work on this. try @global_dev suggestions first.

I purposely buy razors in not the best shape just so I can revive them from the dead and use them.

I have a sickness. SRRD (straight razor restoration disorder)

camo
 
that would be an immediate candidate for my dremel and porter cable polishing compound.

I know a lot probably cringe when I say this; however, maybe i should take the time to explain my process. not grinding, not abrasive stone wheels.

I use the felt wheels (which are available in different shapes and diameters). I protect the edge by laying it on a little wood block i use.

the other benefit of the felt wheels is little no heat buildup.

my friend #5

View attachment 1117856

the only drawback obviously is that it will remove paint and lessen etchings......so you have to consider aesthetics versus historical value. I dont like rust.

as a kid I remember playing with emery cloth.....dont know how available this is now. I recently have learned of another medium called CROCUS cloth which I am very interested in as a final finish. you can bet your buffalo nickel i will have some very soon.

with all this said I'm not sure if you want to invest in the stuff or tools to work on this. try @global_dev suggestions first.

I purposely buy razors in not the best shape just so I can revive them from the dead and use them.

I have a sickness. SRRD (straight razor restoration disorder)

camo

guess I should also point out that I've used painters tape to cover etchings to preserve them. hand rubbing a polishing compound with elbow grease could be an option too.

camo
 
That staining doesn't look that deep, perhaps try some 000 steel wool with Flitz to start with. If that doesn't do it, the tips above should.

I've used a Dremel with felt wheels and polishing compound on razors also, if I can't get it off by hand. Since I'm a klutz, I only use a power anything after other means.
 
They acetone with a cotton shirt. Hard to tell but it doesn’t look like rust.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
vintage crocus cloth= good !!!!

20200630_190052.jpg


works really well wet or dry.....but for high polish I believe wet works better.

camo
 
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