Help me like my Parker Variant

[Umma2gumma]

Yeah I actually do find it “aggressive!” It gives me a fantastic shave that’s pretty darn close. Of course it’s an adjustable, so I mean I could dial it down, but yeah, pretty aggressive.

And FYI, my daily driver used to be a Mühle R41 - and right now I’m using a Karve with the most “aggressive” plate they sell, a F open comb. So I think I’ve a thing for “efficient.” But then I’ve been shaving with straights for the better part of a decade.

You might want to try a Feather Artist Club. Nom, nom. Good luck.

Once my sample ten-pack of Feathers is used up, I will go back to ASP, as much as I like the Feathers I just don't find the difference in performance vs ASP great enough to justify the difference in price. But then, I am soooo changeable, to quote a movie villain

 

[Tostig]

Well, I'm sorta in your boat. I shaved for two years exclusively with a 34C and then decided it was time to branch out and bought a Variant -- for the same reason as you, to be able to play with the aggressiveness. I was thinking I was ready for something a tad more aggressive than the 34C but didn't want to pull the trigger on a razor that was permanently committed to a much more aggressive orientation. Of the adjustables out there, the Variant had the right price point and look for me.

I simply could not get a good shave with it. For one thing, every day it was either stubble or blood, nothing in between. Second, it was so $&#*$(!@ aggressive. Even on its lowest setting - 1 - it seemed more aggressive than my 34C (and is). I actually managed to get a few half-decent shaves with it set on 1, but found myself thinking, "Well, if I can't adjust it beyond its base level, why am I bothering lugging a mega-ton metal stick around my face instead of just using the 34C?"

Dissatisfaction.

I finally got tired of the struggle and came to your conclusion - that it'd make a pretty nice piece of art for my drawer. But I wasn't ready to go back to the 34C. So I looked around at other adjustables and bought a Rockwell 6s.

Pay dirt.

The Rockwell is not exactly an adjustable, of course, but you can change the aggressiveness from less than a 34C to more than a 34C. In fact, I think a 34C would fall between the # 3 and # 4 plates on the Rockwell, meaning that the 34C is basically dead center on the Rockwell's range, as far as aggressiveness. That really works for me.

Anyway, I have a stubborn streak and was still determined to find a way to make the Variant work.

I eventually found the answer: blades. You gotta find the right blade for the Variant. Blades that are too sharp turn it into a samurai killing machine. Blades that are too dull make you crank up the blade gap and turn it into a facial lawn mower. Blades with the wrong edge geometry can't be meshed with the Variant's cutting angle. Basically, you have to find the right blade. I cycled through a dozen or so blades and discovered that, for me, the Gillette Platinum with the Variant on 1.5 - 2 is a nice combo. There are a few other blades I can make work, and maybe when I get more familiar with the Variant, even more blades and adjustment levels will be possible. But anyway, that did solve the problem. Blade experimentation with the Variant set at low levels (2 and under) is a possible answer to the enigma you are dealing with.

 

[PDXMotorcyclist]

The 6C is one I’m considering. As for blades, I believe I’ve tried about a dozen. Persona reds work best in the Variant but still uncomfortable. Your experience is similar to mine...I started at 1 and worked my way up to painful which was at 4 I think.

For now, I’m sticking with the 34C. It’s doing a great job and I’ll think about what’s next.

I appreciate all the feedback from everyone!!!

 

[amateriat]

This is quite interesting: I just wrapped up my shot at the Rex Ambassador US Tour pass around... versus my Variant. I was bracing myself for the Ambassador to wipe the floor with the Variant, and was quite surprised that it didn't happen.

And I don't do a deep dive on the aggressiveness scale with the Parker: 1.5 is the norm for me, sometimes dialing it back to 1.0 for the third pass, and shaves are close and drama-free. Of course, just as with my time with the Rex, it won't work peachy-keen for absolutely everybody…what razor does?

Ambassador vs Variant: no TKO from this prize-fight.

 

[RayClem]

The Variant is modeled after the Merkur Progress, but I do not know how closely they compare on specs. I say a chart of blade gaps for various razors. The Progress on its lowest setting has one of the smallest blade gaps available, even lower than a Gillette Tech and its clones. Of course, efficiency and aggressiveness are not based on blade gap alone.

I also shave with straight razors in addition to DE razors. Using a straight has taught me the importance of edge quality, blade angle and blade pressure. Those same factors affect DE shaving as well, except the presence of the cap and blade guard limit the range of angles that can be used.

When watching shave videos, I note that many folks (especially folks with less sensitive skin) tend to shave using a blade angle that is too steep. That results in the blade scraping off skin cells along with the hair. I have very thin, sensitive skin and a very thick, coarse beard, so I have to be careful to remove the beard with minimal damage to the skin. Thus, I try to shave with a more shallow angle. Jason Rudman shaves with both straight razors and DE razors, if you watch the Ruds Shaves channel, you will find that he has learned to shave with a shallow blade angle on both implements.

Of course, with either a straight razor or DE razor, shaving with minimal pressure is important. I can shave with a Muhle R41 with a very sharp blade as long as I use minimal pressure and use a shallow angle.

Although I have not tried it, I believe I could shave with what is called a Devette, the cross between a DE and a shavette that can be obtained by grinding off the blade guard from a DE razor. That produces the most aggressive and efficient DE possible. Without a blade guard, storage of the razor becomes difficult, thus I have not modified a razor in that way.

Just as honing and stropping affects the quality of a straight razor shave, the quality of the DE blade used in a razor affects the shave. Every beard and face is different, so blades that work well for some folks do not work for others. I like using the very sharpest blades to slice my beard, but if those blades are used in a razor that is too aggressive, my skin gets irritated. I always am searching for the best blade for each of my razors.

 

[BigJ]

This is quite interesting: I just wrapped up my shot at the Rex Ambassador US Tour pass around... versus my Variant. I was bracing myself for the Ambassador to wipe the floor with the Variant, and was quite surprised that it didn't happen.

And I don't do a deep dive on the aggressiveness scale with the Parker: 1.5 is the norm for me, sometimes dialing it back to 1.0 for the third pass, and shaves are close and drama-free. Of course, just as with my time with the Rex, it won't work peachy-keen for absolutely everybody…what razor does?

View attachment 994754
Ambassador vs Variant: no TKO from this prize-fight.

Great comparison!! The key point IMHO, is that the proof is in the shaves!!

 

[AshleyC]

Going to suggest a possibility that you might not be using the Variant right. And forgive me, but this may seem like an insult-level suggestion.

When you install a blade and tighten the top cap down, do you:

A)Tighten it until you feel resistance from the flexing blade, and then stop at the desired number setting? Thinking, "I'm shaving on setting '3' today."?

Or

B)Tighten the the razor all the way down. Bottom it out entirely, mentally consider that your "0" setting (regardless of what number actually lines up with the witness mark) and then dial back up to your desired setting (again, mentally keeping track regardless of number alignment).

Because "B" is the correct answer.

 

[PDXMotorcyclist]

I don't find that insulting at all! I'm sure my technique is *at least* partially responsible but yes, I'm doing "B". My Variant will tighten up to the + mark, then I spin up from there.

I have actually had some success with using it. I don't use it for the three passes (WTG/XTG/ATG) but I do use it quite successfully for the clean up passes after a cold rinse. For these passes, I use really light pressure and a high angle on the razor. I've tried the same for the three passes but just can't get it right. Either I don't get the stubble off because the setting is too mild, or I remove too much of my face with a higher setting.

I've ordered the Rockwell 6C from Amazon which should be arriving tomorrow. I'm actually not unhappy that the Variant didn't work out. Like some blades, this razor just isn't for me.

 

[Tostig]

^ I think you will be happy with the Rockwell. I use mine virtually every day. I still use the Variant sometimes for the application you describe: final touch-up of a few key areas after a cold rinse. My reason being that while the Rockwell cuts plenty close, the Variant produces that coveted "rubbery skin of a dolphin" BBS smoothness which is harder to achieve with the Rockwell.

After getting bored with the 34C and being generally tepid to mildly positive about the Variant, I really love the Rockwell 6s and it's kinda brought a halt to my RAD because it's everything I could want in a razor -- there's nowhere to go from here LOL It's a great razor. I would never trade or sell it; it's here for life. I could see how gents who are into very aggressive razors would find it middling, but those of us for whom the 34C is a good benchmark for an appropriate aggression and efficiency level - the 6s was made for us.

 

[PDXMotorcyclist]

That's what I'm hoping for as well. I don't think I'll get rid of the Variant just because of the final clean up but I'll wait until I've run the Rockwell for a few months before I make any decisions.

 

[shupey]

My favorite razor was the 34c. I tried many others but couldn't get a better shave until I got a 6s. Now that's all I use.

 

[Tostig]

^ Yep. That's my story too, give or take an occasional touch-up with the Variant.

 

[PDXMotorcyclist]

Quick update...purchased the Rockwell 6C from Amazon and, while I’ve only had two shaves with it, it’s been very comfortable. I only had one day growth the first use so went with plate 2. Two days growth for the next so went with plate 3. Both were awesome with no irritation.

I’ll hang onto the Variant and give it another go in a few months. I do like the feel in my hand and the simple adjustability. Just don’t appreciate the harshness I feel. 34C and 6C though are working perfectly!