Help Me Choose an Automatic or Manual Wind Watch

[Stubblefield]

As mentioned in a previous thread, I'm looking for a new watch. I have decided to purchase an automatic or manual wind, as I already have an excellent quartz watch (bought a Torgoen T10). I figure since you all were so helpful in helping me decide between an auto and quartz, you wouldn't mind some vicarious window shopping.

Here are my criteria:

Must be an automatic or winder. No quartz, but also no eco-drive or kinetics.

Cannot be a Japanese watch. I'm OK with a quality Japanese movement, but I do not want to purchase a Seiko, Citizen, Orient, or Invicta. Ditto for Chinese. I don't want a Parnis Homage watch that will cost more to service than buy.

Styles: the simpler the better. No chrono movements, No diver's watches. I happen to like mil and aviator style watches for their simplicity. Does not even need a second hand. Does need to be durable, and must have a decent, reliable movement.

Budget: $300 to $500. I will go higher if I find a good deal. It will not be my daily wearer, but it will be worn. If money were no object I'd buy a Paneri or a U-Boat.

Size: 42-46mm. I have an ample wrist.

Below is one watch that has caught my eye, the O & W Ocean master, which sells for around $300. This is the style watch I'm looking for.

Have at it.

 

[DS/B MCS]

Take a look at the Hamilton Khaki series watches. They offer both automatic and manual wind models. They should be easy to find in your price range and are nice watches. You could also look at Glycine watches. My Glycine KMU48 is a manual wind.

 

[Lavaine]

How about Christopher Ward. English designed, Swiss made. Unlikely that your neighbour or co-worker has one. The C-5 Aviator is $315 with a leather strap.

http://www.christopherward-usa.com/

 

[red71veloce]

You need to check out two manufacturers. First choice: http://www.steinhartwatches.de/index.php?lang_nr=1
Second choice: http://store.debaufre.com/

These two watch companies were at one time connected, hence some very similar watches. Quick explanation, Steinhart was marketed in USA, but had to change their name to DeBaufre due to being too similar in name to another company doing business here. Since they have become seperate companies to my knowledge. I have not bought a DeBaufre, so I cannot comment on them specifically. I have however bought from Steinhart. The owner Gunter is a pleasure to deal with. Great watches. Highly recommended.

Tracy

 

[Stubblefield]

Thanks! I had a quick look at each of the websites of the mentioned companies and all 3 have a few very nice models that would do the job quite nicely. The Steinhart aviation basic reminds me a bit of a Welder and is the perfect size, and the Christopher Ward C5 has the type of understated styling that I'm looking for. As for Hamilton, they have a ton of models, so I'm still looking at those. Saw a few I liked, but couldn't get a screen grab.

 

[spoiledone]

Archimede Pilot watch with automatic movement 42 mm would be a good choice or the Steinhart 44 or 48 mm handwind pilot. Awesome watches for the money and right in your price range.

 

[Cmaster03]

May be hard to quite make your price range, but very close are the Stowa watches of Jorg Schauer in Germany. Jorg has his own line of watches, and he bought the old German Stowa name a few years ago and his small team of watchmakers continue to make cool watches for very reasonable prices.

I don't have one...yet...but serious watch guys are often enamored of Jorg's and Stowa's watches. Kinda best buys. (Stowa was one of the original makers of pilot or 'Flieger' watches for the Luftwaffe, so the name has bveen around a while.) They have the usual pilot, diver, dress watches, you name it. I'm jonesing for one of the Kleine Sekund small dress watches myself.

http://www.german-watches.com/cgi-b...858&rubnum=antea&artnum=&file=&gesamt_zeilen=

 

[Austin]

May be hard to quite make your price range, but very close are the Stowa watches of Jorg Schauer in Germany. Jorg has his own line of watches, and he bought the old German Stowa name a few years ago and his small team of watchmakers continue to make cool watches for very reasonable prices.

I don't have one...yet...but serious watch guys are often enamored of Jorg's and Stowa's watches. Kinda best buys. (Stowa was one of the original makers of pilot or 'Flieger' watches for the Luftwaffe, so the name has bveen around a while.) They have the usual pilot, diver, dress watches, you name it. I'm jonesing for one of the Kleine Sekund small dress watches myself.

http://www.german-watches.com/cgi-b...858&rubnum=antea&artnum=&file=&gesamt_zeilen=

That's a great recommendation.

 

[Stubblefield]

I'll add both of those to the growing list. Stowa might be a stretch, but it is worth a look!

 

[schweeb]

i definitely like those Christopher Ward watches.

 

[carman63]

Of the many good choices being passed, I can attest to quite a few. I own or have owned Stowa (still own a Flieger LE and Antea Small Seconds), Archimede (Flieger), Christopher Ward (still own a Malvern) and Steinhart (Rolex look-alike, to see if I'd wear it). All of those offer great bang-for-the-buck.

The Archimede is really well-made, excellent fit-and-finish for the modest price. All of the manufacturers of these offer outstanding customer service. Of the above brands, you're probably most likely to run into someone that owns (or knows about) Stowa. But even that would be a chance encounter

Another brand you might check out is Meistersinger. Closer to the Stowa price range, but very well-crafted, unique pieces.

And if you want to dabble on the lower-end price range, look at the Seiko 5 series. You can get into those for about $100 or so. Not bad for an automatic!

-Jim

 

[Triumph Coupe]

If you want something that you won't see anyone else with (become part of an exclusive club) but something that has a real cult following within those in the watch community then try looking at the following:

Speedbird 3
http://www.timefactors.com/speedbird.htm

Precista
http://www.timefactors.com/precista.htm

My choice would be for a Speedbird III. It is a lovely watch.

Both are excellent value for money and punch way above their price in terms of build quality.

 

[spoiledone]

I'll add both of those to the growing list. Stowa might be a stretch, but it is worth a look!

Just in case you didn't know, the Stowa Seatime is a very big and heavy watch. Although it is a very nice looking watch, and you get a nice choice of bezels if you want to change it, i just could not deal with the weight and shape of it on my wrist and ended up selling it. This coming from a guy that likes Breitlings

 

[mark the shoeshine boy]

Has anyone considered the Cyma watches ?

 

[betat]

Archimede Pilot watch with automatic movement 42 mm would be a good choice or the Steinhart 44 or 48 mm handwind pilot. Awesome watches for the money and right in your price range.

I second the Archimede. They are a great "big pilot" without spending the big bucks on an IWC and they have added some chronographs to the line. My pilot is my everyday watch.
http://www.archimede-uhren.de/EN/Collection.htm

 

[Stubblefield]

I second the Archimede. They are a great "big pilot" without spending the big bucks on an IWC and they have added some chronographs to the line. My pilot is my everyday watch.
http://www.archimede-uhren.de/EN/Collection.htm

That is a great looking watch, the Archimede. I am digging their vintage line.

I just spent a bit of time comparing the Stowa and the Steinhart NavB. Def like the Stowa better, but hard to beat the price on the Steinhart.

A few others I have run across:

Dievas: They make a great Paneri Homage.

Out of my price range by a few hundred or so:

Mühle-Glashütte. I can almost afford the Big Sports.

 

[Uncle Erik]

Take a look at West Coast Time. They have a very nice selection of auto and manual military-style watches in your budget. I've owned one 2824 model and was extremely satisfied with it. My father has it now, but it's been a solid watch for him, too.

You might want to browse vintage watches, too. An Eterna-Matic Kontiki or an Enicar Sherpa might catch your eye. Both are of high quality and sought after by collectors, so they're likely to appreciate.

You should also nose around the Poor Man's Watch Forum. The members there should be able to point you to a lot of wonderful watches.

 

[Stubblefield]

Take a look at West Coast Time. They have a very nice selection of auto and manual military-style watches in your budget. I've owned one 2824 model and was extremely satisfied with it. My father has it now, but it's been a solid watch for him, too.

You might want to browse vintage watches, too. An Eterna-Matic Kontiki or an Enicar Sherpa might catch your eye. Both are of high quality and sought after by collectors, so they're likely to appreciate.

You should also nose around the Poor Man's Watch Forum. The members there should be able to point you to a lot of wonderful watches.

Thanks for the links/ideas--I had no idea there was a poor man's watch forum. I have been corresponding with the guy at West Coast about straps for my Torgoen, he seems like a nice sort.

Just in case you didn't know, the Stowa Seatime is a very big and heavy watch. Although it is a very nice looking watch, and you get a nice choice of bezels if you want to change it, i just could not deal with the weight and shape of it on my wrist and ended up selling it. This coming from a guy that likes Breitlings

I hear you. After wearing my Torgoen (45mm) for a week, my next watch will be no bigger than 42mm or so. The Torgoen isn't that big or heavy, but 45mm is noticeably bigger than 42, which was the size of my Seiko Diver (now sold).

 

[Crackedlens]

I have the STOWA Antea and a Titoni Airmaster Pilot.

Very nice watches.

 

[Stubblefield]

I have the STOWA Antea and a Titoni Airmaster Pilot.

Very nice watches.

I love the look of the Antea.