Help identifying the source of my irritation

[Doc Dan]

Is it posible to create lather in a bowl and then apply it on your face without using a brush, to discard that factor immediately? I know some have recommended brushless creams, but the truth is I have like 20soaps/creams (TOBS, Stirling, Zingari, Tabac, Cella, RazoRock, Speick, Arko, PAA, A&E, etc), and I don’t want to continue piling up until I discover the true reason of irritation.

In fact, I haven’t shaved in two days and the upper part of my cheekbones itch a bit, kind of a mild rash

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It is possible, but not as easy.

That looks a lot like allergic dermatitis. Something you are sleeping on, or something you are putting on your face is irritating your skin. You can likely clear it up with some hydrocortisone cream, but you also need to find the root cause.

 

[Phoenixkh]

You could try this. I often do small touch-ups as I shave but never go over a spot or area without lather. For this reason, I always squeeze out a little lather from my brush between my thumb and forefinger on my left hand: the non-shaving hand.(I bowl lather) There is no law against lathering in a bowl, transferring the lather to your hand and lathering your face with your hands.

That’s how I used to spread Edge goo around on my face before I started wet shaving. That would take brush irritation out of the equation immediately.

As has been suggested, one change at a time…. But if you think the brush on your face is likely causing at least part of the problem, you might consider eliminating it sooner rather than later, at least for now.

Just a thought. It will take you a while to figure it all out, but I suspect you’ll see steady improvement in short order. Lots of us have skin issues we’ve had to circumvent and most of us have figured it out. I’m sure you will too.

 

[Jay21]

I had terrible irritation when I first started out. A lot of it was my poor technique. Upon experimentation, face lathering and the alum block made things worse. I agree with the others here: ditch those two actions for now and see if they help. Stopping them have helped me. I only use alum on a specific spot if I’m bleeding.

 

[roboman]

I've been using some 1930s & 1940s blades from ebay. I've also been experimenting with a few shaving creams. I don't easily get razor burn or irritation - but with these older blades - the volume is definitely turned up. Not sure if the blades made then were not as sharp as modern blades; mild corrosion occurs that negatively affects the blade edge.... or what??? In general, using these older blades has been a chore.

These experiments taught me a few things I can share:
1. A sharp blade known for smoothness makes a huge difference. Tons of good blades are raved about here. I've had excellent results with Astra Superiors.
2. Many of the cheaper designer soaps on ebay/Amazon are subpar quality and don't slide/glide/protect/lubricate to satisfactory levels. I've become fond of cheap $3 Arko soap stick as a decent soap that doesn't smell great - but works great.
3. Adjustables do seem to help me when using the subpar blades. I had a brand new 'dull' blade and tried shaving at my normal 6 out of 10 sharpness in a Gillette slim; and realized it was scratching my face (felt it). I dialed-down to 3 and the shave was smoother. An hour later, I noticed the single spot on my face that was shaved using setting 6 felt irritated while the rest of the face felt fine.

 

[The Blackadder]

I had terrible irritation when I first started out. A lot of it was my poor technique. Upon experimentation, face lathering and the alum block made things worse. I agree with the others here: ditch those two actions for now and see if they help. Stopping them have helped me. I only use alum on a specific spot if I’m bleeding.

I've been using some 1930s & 1940s blades from ebay. I've also been experimenting with a few shaving creams. I don't easily get razor burn or irritation - but with these older blades - the volume is definitely turned up. Not sure if the blades made then were not as sharp as modern blades; mild corrosion occurs that negatively affects the blade edge.... or what??? In general, using these older blades has been a chore.

These experiments taught me a few things I can share:
1. A sharp blade known for smoothness makes a huge difference. Tons of good blades are raved about here. I've had excellent results with Astra Superiors.
2. Many of the cheaper designer soaps on ebay/Amazon are subpar quality and don't slide/glide/protect/lubricate to satisfactory levels. I've become fond of cheap $3 Arko soap stick as a decent soap that doesn't smell great - but works great.
3. Adjustables do seem to help me when using the subpar blades. I had a brand new 'dull' blade and tried shaving at my normal 6 out of 10 sharpness in a Gillette slim; and realized it was scratching my face (felt it). I dialed-down to 3 and the shave was smoother. An hour later, I noticed the single spot on my face that was shaved using setting 6 felt irritated while the rest of the face felt fine.

Thanks a lot for the answers. I’ve been trying to narrow down the possible culprits, still without much success. So far, what I can say is:

- My skin is quite “moody”. Sometimes the very same cream (for dermatitis) which was prescribed by my doctor makes my skin burn or itch. Most of the times it’s really helpful

- I definitely need to work on my lather. Generally it’s not sticky or sleek enough, so my razor doesn’t really glide.

- I’ve used the same soap (zingari navigator), same blades (Nacets), same razor (Henson ++) for two weeks, and I’m trying to discard the soap. Apparently, something in it doesn’t agree with my skin, or it could be my poor lathering skills

- No alum, just cold water. Prep with cold water and proto-lather from the same soap. Will try to add a previous rinse with glycerin soap, I’ve read it helps a lot of members.

So, all in all, I can’t tell the reason for sure. Could be the soap, poor lather or lack of technique. Or my skin is just too complicated

 

[luvmysuper]

I discovered the source of my irritation. I seem to be much happier about the discovery than my wife is.

- Shave every day four times a week for work
- Prepare my face just splashing cold water and scrubbing for about a minute

I don't know why you would need to rub or scrub. Just pat the water on, reapply if it starts to dry.

- Face lather with Nivea sensitive shaving cream using my brush

Could be the brush, but seems like a brush wouldn't be a localized area, unless you go to town there.

- Do just one pass WTG and touch ups
- Rinse with cold water
- Apply alum block to my face

Alum can be good for small nicks and cuts, but...
Alum is drying as heck! Rubbing it on isn't irritation free either.

- Rinse after 30 seconds and dry face

Pat dry, don't rub.

- Apply Nivea sensitive skin balm
- I've only used Astra SP blades, 5 times tops each

If I were you, I would cut out one thing at a time to see if there is a change.
Be DEAD CERTAIN you're using the correct angle and not causing razor burn from too shallow an angle.
Try not using alum
Try not using the brush
Don't rub your face pre-shave
Don't rub dry your face post-shave.

Don't discount that you may have a reaction to something in the shave cream or balm.

 

[roboman]

Thanks a lot for the answers. I’ve been trying to narrow down the possible culprits, still without much success. So far, what I can say is:

- My skin is quite “moody”. Sometimes the very same cream (for dermatitis) which was prescribed by my doctor makes my skin burn or itch. Most of the times it’s really helpful

- I definitely need to work on my lather. Most of the times is not sticky or sleek enough, so my razor doesn’t really glide.

- I’ve used the same soap (zingari navigator), same blades (Nacets), same razor (Henson ++) for two weeks, and I’m trying to discard the soap. Apparently, something in it doesn’t agree with my skin, or it could be my poor lathering skills

- No alum, just cold water. Prep with cold water and proto-lather from the same soap. Will try to add a previous rinse with glycerin soap, I’ve read it helps a lot of members.

So, all in all, I can’t tell the reason for sure. Could be the soap, poor lather or lack of technique. Or my skin is just too complicated

I'm with ya... New to traditional shaving too, but really enjoying it. Shaving is less of a chore now. One more thing I wanted to share. I used Poraso White with one of the older blades and had some irritation. Next shave I used Arko and didn't have irritation. Today I tried Poraso again and let it soak on the face for a couple minutes before starting the shave - that worked. No irritation.

Seems that I will get irritation if soap/lather is too dry, too watered-down... At 1st I was blaming the soaps and then realized much of it was technique.

 

[luvmysuper]

I'm with ya... New to traditional shaving too, but really enjoying it. Shaving is less of a chore now. One more thing I wanted to share. I used Poraso White with one of the older blades and had some irritation. Next shave I used Arko and didn't have irritation. Today I tried Poraso again and let it soak on the face for a couple minutes before starting the shave - that worked. No irritation.

Seems that I will get irritation if soap/lather is too dry, too watered-down... At 1st I was blaming the soaps and then realized much of it was technique.

Blaming product or blades or razors for technique issues is more common than one might believe!

 

[Jay21]

Thanks a lot for the answers. I’ve been trying to narrow down the possible culprits, still without much success. So far, what I can say is:

- My skin is quite “moody”. Sometimes the very same cream (for dermatitis) which was prescribed by my doctor makes my skin burn or itch. Most of the times it’s really helpful

- I definitely need to work on my lather. Generally it’s not sticky or sleek enough, so my razor doesn’t really glide.

- I’ve used the same soap (zingari navigator), same blades (Nacets), same razor (Henson ++) for two weeks, and I’m trying to discard the soap. Apparently, something in it doesn’t agree with my skin, or it could be my poor lathering skills

- No alum, just cold water. Prep with cold water and proto-lather from the same soap. Will try to add a previous rinse with glycerin soap, I’ve read it helps a lot of members.

So, all in all, I can’t tell the reason for sure. Could be the soap, poor lather or lack of technique. Or my skin is just too complicated

Astras and Nacets caused me irritation at first until I got my technique under control. You may try some blades that are coated with Teflon, like the GSB and Dorco Titan (double coated), which I found to be very smooth and nice for my skin.

 

[The Blackadder]

Astras and Nacets caused me irritation at first until I got my technique under control. You may try some blades that are coated with Teflon, like the GSB and Dorco Titan (double coated), which I found to be very smooth and nice for my skin.

Will do, thanks. I’ll finish my Nacets (3 remaining) and continue with GSB, don’t remember if I have the Titans. Just finished shaving and it went much better in terms of sensation and glide. I think I got a better relation product/water, so my lather today really seemed like lather. However, after the shave I immediately got red patches in the upper part of my cheekbones, where the blade barely touches. So, I’m leaning towards the soap. I’m going to try with Zingari Explorer in a few more shaves to check if it’s something in the Zingari base or in the fragrance of the Navigator

 

[Jay21]

Will do, thanks. I’ll finish my Nacets (3 remaining) and continue with GSB, don’t remember if I have the Titans. Just finished shaving and it went much better in terms of sensation and glide. I think I got a better relation product/water, so my lather today really seemed like lather. However, after the shave I immediately got red patches in the upper part of my cheekbones, where the blade barely touches. So, I’m leaning towards the soap. I’m going to try with Zingari Explorer in a few more shaves to check if it’s something in the Zingari base or in the fragrance of the Navigator

You can easily confirm or eliminate the soap as the culprit. Don’t shave or do any of your whole routine except for lathering up your face. See what happens.

 

[The Blackadder]

You can easily confirm or eliminate the soap as the culprit. Don’t shave or do any of your whole routine except for lathering up your face. See what happens.

Tomorrow I’ll lather a bit in a bowl and apply it by hand, to discard the brush too. Thanks

 

[Jay21]

Tomorrow I’ll lather a bit in a bowl and apply it by hand, to discard the brush too. Thanks

If you do find soaps are the culprit, you could look into shaving with only beard oil. That’s a technique some use.

 

[Phoenixkh]

I just counted my unscented soaps: I have 6 of them, all excellent.

I only bring up the soaps again because I used one beloved soap here, highly recommended and it took two weeks for my face to recover.

I started getting the red bumps right after that and headed to my dermatologist. I know I’m repeating myself but she confirmed, many of her patients with similar skin conditions as me react to the ingredients used to make the fragrances.

I switched to unscented soaps and started using better cleansers. It’s made a world of difference for me.

You’ll figure it out. All the advice above is excellent. The journey of ten thousand miles starts under your feet. You’re already ready on your path. You’ll do well.

 

[The Blackadder]

I switched to unscented soaps and started using better cleansers. It’s made a world of difference for me.

Could you give me some advice regarding cleansers and how you use them?

 

[Phoenixkh]

The dermatologist recommended both CeraVe and Cetaphil products. My wife and I tried them both and they both worked well.,

We settled on Cetaphil for the second purchases. In the shower, I use their pump body wash. I then use their pump face wash. I use the PAA Cube 2.0 over the area I shave: I don’t have any facial hair I don’t shave, no beard, mustache or goatee. I usually repeat the face cleaning routine.

Might as well continue. I use a shaving bowl. I either scrape off some hard soap or put an almond sized spoonful of softer soap in the bottom of the bowl. I have one of those continuous fine mist sprayers and I mist the soap flakes or thin the soap out in the bottom of the bowl and mist that. The bowl is floating in hot water while I’m showering.

After the shower, I immediately put on a pre-shave and rub it into my face/whiskers with my fingers, leaving it wet but not running down off my face and neck.

Then I lather up the soap and shave.

There is no one right way to approach this, as you know, but this has been working for me for over a year now.

I think your dermatologist got you Metro Gel or should have. It does tingle when I apply it, even where I don’t shave, like on my forehead, but it’s been taking away my red bumps.


I also use hyaluronic acid serum on my whole face. I let each application dry before applying the next one. I finish up with Neutrogena Hydro Boost Gel-Cream.

While I’m waiting for each application to dry, I’m cleaning my brush, bowl and razors, so I’m not sitting around waiting. A few people here have small face fans to speed things up. I don’t have one but it’s a great idea.

 

[Phoenixkh]

@The Blackadder ,

I was wondering, how are you getting along? I hope my last post wasn’t too long and boring. I’m guessing you are making headway and your shaves are getting more comfortable.

 

[The Blackadder]

@The Blackadder ,

I was wondering, how are you getting along? I hope my last post wasn’t too long and boring. I’m guessing you are making headway and your shaves are getting more comfortable.

Not at all. In fact, it was very hard informative. My skin is dry towards my jaw and neck, but oily near the nose, so I need to find something compatible. I think I’ve been doing better in regards to my shaves. In my last attempts, my lather has been more sleek and “sticky”, so protection has increased. In fact, I shaved a couple of hours ago and post feel is a lot better. I’m also getting used to my new Henson, so that’s also helped a lot

 

[Doc Dan]

Not at all. In fact, it was very hard informative. My skin is dry towards my jaw and neck, but oily near the nose, so I need to find something compatible. I think I’ve been doing better in regards to my shaves. In my last attempts, my lather has been more sleek and “sticky”, so protection has increased. In fact, I shaved a couple of hours ago and post feel is a lot better. I’m also getting used to my new Henson, so that’s also helped a lot

Are you allergic to lanolin? Most people aren't. You can try some Mitchell's Wool Fat shaving soap and it will soften and moisten your skin. It does require learning a new way to build lather, but it's my favorite soap.

I'm glad you got the Henson. Just keep the flat part of the head in contact with the skin. Don't tip it up more or down more. Don't use pressure. Let the razor do the work.

 

[The Blackadder]

Are you allergic to lanolin? Most people aren't. You can try some Mitchell's Wool Fat shaving soap and it will soften and moisten your skin. It does require learning a new way to build lather, but it's my favorite soap.

I'm glad you got the Henson. Just keep the flat part of the head in contact with the skin. Don't tip it up more or down more. Don't use pressure. Let the razor do the work.

Thanks. I ordered MWF some days ago, so it should be here in a couple of weeks. Yes, I’m getting used to the Henson. It was hard at first, because I thought it was not shaving, but it was mostly due to my terrible lathering skills. Now it’s getting better