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Help identifying the source of my irritation

Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum, I've participated in other threads and lurked a lot before signing up, this is my official introduction. I've been DE shaving for just two months after reading a lot here and watching tons on videos on YouTube. As I said in another thread, I suffer from Dermatitis. My skin is oily around my nose, and dry towards my cheeks, jawline, sideburns and neck. This has put me in a tough spot since I was young. Started shaving with an electrical razor, which gave me terrible irritation specially in the neck. After many years I switched to cartridge razors which were more efficient and helped a bit with irritation. Finally I discovered DE razors and here I am. I'm quite new and of course need still tons of practice, but this is my hobby now. I have a Merkur Progress, a 20-dollar Rockwell brush (don't know the model), blades from different makes and several soaps and creams, a couple of post-shave balms and an alum block. When I started my idea was just to have a simple quick shave, so I began with Cremo since it just needed hot water and hand scrubbing. Got some decent results, with a couple of nicks and cuts, as expected. Then I switched to a Taconic soap, which I rubbed directly on my face and lathered. I'd say I got some of my best shaves that way, but the lime in my soap was a bit to much for me. I tried green Proraso twice, which gave me kind of a rash. Two weeks ago I started shaving exclusively with cold water and noticed a lot of improvement in my skin. Hot and warm water produced a lot of dryness and inflammation, cold water seems to have solved that. However, after a couple of hours or sometimes many hours, I get some red spots (not very noticeable) above my jawline, close to the sideburns and next to my mouth. Usually those three spots itch like hell. I sooth them applying water and a cream prescribed by a doctor for my condition (Nutradeica). I've read everything there is to read on the forum regarding irritation (The wanderer's guide and some others), but I can't pinpoint the reason. I've mapped my face, apply almost no pressure, the works. Only thing I avoid is hot shower and hot water, because it's literally poison to my face. I'll describe my shaving routine so you may help find the issue. I have fair, light beard by the way:

- Shave every day four times a week for work
- Prepare my face just splashing cold water and scrubbing for about a minute
- Face lather with Nivea sensitive shaving cream using my brush
- Do just one pass WTG and touch ups
- Rinse with cold water
- Apply alum block to my face
- Rinse after 30 seconds and dry face
- Apply Nivea sensitive skin balm
- I've only used Astra SP blades, 5 times tops each

Now I haven't shaved for over two days and the itchy spots are almost gone, so there's definitively something causing them during the shave. Strangely nothing happens to my neck, which is supposed to be the most sensitive place. What should I start testing, apart from technique? Quit the alum, change blades? I don't think it's the cream or balm, they are supposed to be for sensitive skin. Thanks in advance
change the shave angle, ride the bar... the wrong angle with irritate for sure
 
Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum, I've participated in other threads and lurked a lot before signing up, this is my official introduction. I've been DE shaving for just two months after reading a lot here and watching tons on videos on YouTube. As I said in another thread, I suffer from Dermatitis. My skin is oily around my nose, and dry towards my cheeks, jawline, sideburns and neck. This has put me in a tough spot since I was young. Started shaving with an electrical razor, which gave me terrible irritation specially in the neck. After many years I switched to cartridge razors which were more efficient and helped a bit with irritation. Finally I discovered DE razors and here I am. I'm quite new and of course need still tons of practice, but this is my hobby now. I have a Merkur Progress, a 20-dollar Rockwell brush (don't know the model), blades from different makes and several soaps and creams, a couple of post-shave balms and an alum block. When I started my idea was just to have a simple quick shave, so I began with Cremo since it just needed hot water and hand scrubbing. Got some decent results, with a couple of nicks and cuts, as expected. Then I switched to a Taconic soap, which I rubbed directly on my face and lathered. I'd say I got some of my best shaves that way, but the lime in my soap was a bit to much for me. I tried green Proraso twice, which gave me kind of a rash. Two weeks ago I started shaving exclusively with cold water and noticed a lot of improvement in my skin. Hot and warm water produced a lot of dryness and inflammation, cold water seems to have solved that. However, after a couple of hours or sometimes many hours, I get some red spots (not very noticeable) above my jawline, close to the sideburns and next to my mouth. Usually those three spots itch like hell. I sooth them applying water and a cream prescribed by a doctor for my condition (Nutradeica). I've read everything there is to read on the forum regarding irritation (The wanderer's guide and some others), but I can't pinpoint the reason. I've mapped my face, apply almost no pressure, the works. Only thing I avoid is hot shower and hot water, because it's literally poison to my face. I'll describe my shaving routine so you may help find the issue. I have fair, light beard by the way:

- Shave every day four times a week for work
- Prepare my face just splashing cold water and scrubbing for about a minute
- Face lather with Nivea sensitive shaving cream using my brush
- Do just one pass WTG and touch ups
- Rinse with cold water
- Apply alum block to my face
- Rinse after 30 seconds and dry face
- Apply Nivea sensitive skin balm
- I've only used Astra SP blades, 5 times tops each

Now I haven't shaved for over two days and the itchy spots are almost gone, so there's definitively something causing them during the shave. Strangely nothing happens to my neck, which is supposed to be the most sensitive place. What should I start testing, apart from technique? Quit the alum, change blades? I don't think it's the cream or balm, they are supposed to be for sensitive skin. Thanks in advance
Shave every day four times a week for work
- Prepare my face just splashing cold water and scrubbing for about a minute
Sensitive skin requires extra pre and post shave care. You don’t do either. I was the same as you for skin care when I got here. Now both my pre and post skin care routines are longer in length and time than my shave. If time is an issue for you on work days. Night time before bed would be an ideal time for skin nurturing.

It took me over two years of trying pre&post products. If they did not make an immediate difference they got thrown out. A long process but successful in the end. My skin and shaves are now at above average comfort.

Technique issues are certainly an issue for all beginners. They will be quicker and more comfortable if you are shaving healthier skin.
 
Sensitive skin requires extra pre and post shave care. You don’t do either. I was the same as you for skin care when I got here. Now both my pre and post skin care routines are longer in length and time than my shave. If time is an issue for you on work days. Night time before bed would be an ideal time for skin nurturing.

It took me over two years of trying pre&post products. If they did not make an immediate difference they got thrown out. A long process but successful in the end. My skin and shaves are now at above average comfort.

Technique issues are certainly an issue for all beginners. They will be quicker and more comfortable if you are shaving healthier skin.

What do you do for your pre and post shave routine?

As a preshave I’m washing my face with a glycerine soap. After shave, I use balms immediately, between shaves I use Cerave moisturizer and Cerave AS Cleaner for places where I tend to get bumps. My condition has improved a lot since I started using a Henson and a Nacet. Most of my recent problems are a result of bad lathers or wrong blade
 
What do you do for your pre and post shave routine?

As a preshave I’m washing my face with a glycerine soap. After shave, I use balms immediately, between shaves I use Cerave moisturizer and Cerave AS Cleaner for places where I tend to get bumps. My condition has improved a lot since I started using a Henson and a Nacet. Most of my recent problems are a result of bad lathers or wrong blade
Wet or dry the best shaving shaving equipment affects skin comfort. Henson & Nacet are very good.. I know Henson by reputation and have used Nacets. An excellent sharp blade. If you are exploring blades I found these reviews helpful to me in selecting and categorizing blades. Razor Blade Sharpness Summary with Comparison Chart - https://www.refinedshave.com/razor-blade-sharpness-summary//

I shave face and head once a week.
My present shave is not how I started. My beginnings are in this journal thread if you’re interested.

Pre-shave. After a long hot shower. I use Saponificio Varesino shea butter pre shave. I rub it in completely, face and head. I take my time massaging my face and head. Paying close attention to the difficult shave spots whorls etc. I let it soak in for ten minutes while I perform other grooming requirements. Pumice my feet, and apply foot cream. Recently I switched back to warm water shaves from cold. A warm wet face towel to sponge wet on my face and neck. I use a Zenith B35 boar brush exclusively. I single use a Feather blade, loaded into a Fatip Gold Grande, used exclusively. I load brush from the SV Felce Aromatica tin, used exclusively, and face lather. I shave face and head following my shave map. My shave is an ATG Single Pass. Again not how I started.


IMG_0388.jpeg



Post face shave. Warm water rinse apply alum block. Proceed with Head shave ATG Single Pass. Following my shave map. Warm water rinse apply alum. When alum application is dry. I gently towel rinse any dried surface alum on face and head. Witch Hazel applied same thing after it has dried into skin, gently towel rinse. Hyaluronic acid liberally massaged into all face and head skin. While still moist SV Pre shave Mango Butter applied and massaged into face and head skin. I let that set in for ten or so minutes and apply Lucky Tiger after shave tonic. Depending on mood I may apply a SV after shave balm. If going out right away a light dusting of a favourite talc applied face and head with a cosmetic dusting brush. I break down my razor, light towel the boar and other duties to have everything locked and loaded for next weeks shave. Between drying of after shave applications.

My skin improved using the vegal based SV product line. They are in the higher price category. There are plenty of more economically priced vegal formulated soaps, and skin products available. I also use Neutrogena Hydro Boost Night Pressed Serum at least once or twice a week after a shower. I also use their hydro boost lotion for any touch up sensitive spots. If I feel any skin irritation or discomfort I deal with it immediately. I keep my face and head skin well shaded when out in the sun.

I timed my bathroom time at 3hours & ten minutes. Not a morning shave for a working man. The actual shaving is between 25-40 min. Depending on how crazy I might get with the lathering. A long was off from my face and head work shaves. Which was a disposable razor with canned foam in the shower no mirror. A pretty quick shave. Simple to sublime. You are on the threshold to design an appropriate shave to suit your style and needs. You cannot shave uncomfortable or irritated skin without increasing the misery.

If you are a DE beginner as all of us were. You do not have good technique. Where I was when I got here. It is difficult to be in this community without chasing down wonderful products and equipment. My advice is to Minimize as many moving parts or variables in your shave. If you are using ten different razors and sixteen different soaps with thirteen different brushes. It could be challenging to find and establish a consistent shave. In the early going if you are having problems they are minimized. If you can maintain a fixed four until you get a good grip on technique. The basic three pass shave is the easiest and quickest way to achieve good technique.

I hope some of my suggestions may help you in your exciting journey into DE shaving. It will get better.
 
Wet or dry the best shaving shaving equipment affects skin comfort. Henson & Nacet are very good.. I know Henson by reputation and have used Nacets. An excellent sharp blade. If you are exploring blades I found these reviews helpful to me in selecting and categorizing blades. Razor Blade Sharpness Summary with Comparison Chart - https://www.refinedshave.com/razor-blade-sharpness-summary//

I shave face and head once a week.
My present shave is not how I started. My beginnings are in this journal thread if you’re interested.

Pre-shave. After a long hot shower. I use Saponificio Varesino shea butter pre shave. I rub it in completely, face and head. I take my time massaging my face and head. Paying close attention to the difficult shave spots whorls etc. I let it soak in for ten minutes while I perform other grooming requirements. Pumice my feet, and apply foot cream. Recently I switched back to warm water shaves from cold. A warm wet face towel to sponge wet on my face and neck. I use a Zenith B35 boar brush exclusively. I single use a Feather blade, loaded into a Fatip Gold Grande, used exclusively. I load brush from the SV Felce Aromatica tin, used exclusively, and face lather. I shave face and head following my shave map. My shave is an ATG Single Pass. Again not how I started.


View attachment 1674081


Post face shave. Warm water rinse apply alum block. Proceed with Head shave ATG Single Pass. Following my shave map. Warm water rinse apply alum. When alum application is dry. I gently towel rinse any dried surface alum on face and head. Witch Hazel applied same thing after it has dried into skin, gently towel rinse. Hyaluronic acid liberally massaged into all face and head skin. While still moist SV Pre shave Mango Butter applied and massaged into face and head skin. I let that set in for ten or so minutes and apply Lucky Tiger after shave tonic. Depending on mood I may apply a SV after shave balm. If going out right away a light dusting of a favourite talc applied face and head with a cosmetic dusting brush. I break down my razor, light towel the boar and other duties to have everything locked and loaded for next weeks shave. Between drying of after shave applications.

My skin improved using the vegal based SV product line. They are in the higher price category. There are plenty of more economically priced vegal formulated soaps, and skin products available. I also use Neutrogena Hydro Boost Night Pressed Serum at least once or twice a week after a shower. I also use their hydro boost lotion for any touch up sensitive spots. If I feel any skin irritation or discomfort I deal with it immediately. I keep my face and head skin well shaded when out in the sun.

I timed my bathroom time at 3hours & ten minutes. Not a morning shave for a working man. The actual shaving is between 25-40 min. Depending on how crazy I might get with the lathering. A long was off from my face and head work shaves. Which was a disposable razor with canned foam in the shower no mirror. A pretty quick shave. Simple to sublime. You are on the threshold to design an appropriate shave to suit your style and needs. You cannot shave uncomfortable or irritated skin without increasing the misery.

If you are a DE beginner as all of us were. You do not have good technique. Where I was when I got here. It is difficult to be in this community without chasing down wonderful products and equipment. My advice is to Minimize as many moving parts or variables in your shave. If you are using ten different razors and sixteen different soaps with thirteen different brushes. It could be challenging to find and establish a consistent shave. In the early going if you are having problems they are minimized. If you can maintain a fixed four until you get a good grip on technique. The basic three pass shave is the easiest and quickest way to achieve good technique.

I hope some of my suggestions may help you in your exciting journey into DE shaving. It will get better.
⬆️ This, what a super post chocked full of hard to learn lessons of a shaving journey well traveled. It's given me some food for thought. Loved it...thank you, John!
 
Whats interesting about the pre a shower and my shave is not as good :)
Use the cerave face wash which is wonderful stuff
But cant use that before the shave either in shower or at sink before I shave its almost like my skin can get to soft
Need more testing with cold water but cold in Arizona summers does not exist :)


For me just some warm water on a washcloth few times is my best pre so far

Playing with pre shaves more and not found one to really matter yet but more to try

Also my blade hunt is about done took about 6 months to try 50+ blades and was well worth it
And top 3 are
Treet dura sharp
GSB
Nacet

For soap the Captains Choice is going to be my base and has the best post so far with SV being #2 but am going to test all again with the treet dura sharps and GSB looking forward to that

Neutrogena Hydro gel for face the colorless scentless one goes on over Old Spice or Lucky Tiger with the Lucky Tiger slowly becoming my #1 as the no alcohol is more comfy

Again YMMV and do think one just need’s to try as much as they can and realize some products just dont work for everyone

Of course some products I can tell right away irritate my skin

Or some repeating things get me in the end loved pinaud clubman started burning my face big time sadly
 
Whats interesting about the pre a shower and my shave is not as good :)
Use the cerave face wash which is wonderful stuff
But cant use that before the shave either in shower or at sink before I shave its almost like my skin can get to soft
Need more testing with cold water but cold in Arizona summers does not exist :)


For me just some warm water on a washcloth few times is my best pre so far

Playing with pre shaves more and not found one to really matter yet but more to try

Also my blade hunt is about done took about 6 months to try 50+ blades and was well worth it
And top 3 are
Treet dura sharp
GSB
Nacet

For soap the Captains Choice is going to be my base and has the best post so far with SV being #2 but am going to test all again with the treet dura sharps and GSB looking forward to that

Neutrogena Hydro gel for face the colorless scentless one goes on over Old Spice or Lucky Tiger with the Lucky Tiger slowly becoming my #1 as the no alcohol is more comfy

Again YMMV and do think one just need’s to try as much as they can and realize some products just dont work for everyone

Of course some products I can tell right away irritate my skin

Or some repeating things get me in the end loved pinaud clubman started burning my face big time sadly
one just need’s to try as much as they can and realize some products just dont work for everyone
Exactly it’s both long term and expensive throwing out ineffective products. Yet the only way to find suitable effective products. Our skin is our largest organ and in many ways the easiest to care for.
 
Exactly it’s both long term and expensive throwing out ineffective products. Yet the only way to find suitable effective products. Our skin is our largest organ and in many ways the easiest to care for.
Yeah catch 22 for sure :)

I am going to try to sell give away what I do not use in the end BUT I do think its worth it
Never thought shaving could be comfy to bad did not find this 40+ yrs ago :) ahahahahaha

what is interesting is for a while been using the Cerave body lotion stuff got it at costco more a cream in a tub with a pump also bought the body Neutrgena Hydro gel and tried it but liked the other NOW after a while I am liking the Neutrogena body hhydro gel

and sure we all know this but also we can and do change what we like over time or after longer use and of course our reasons can vary wildly :) form what it does for us performance wise to just like the package or just want a change to change
 
Sounds like you are doing everything right, so I'm stymied. Maybe try a preshave? I haven't tried one yet as I don't have your problems. Proraso makes one that is raved about but I have as yet no personal experience with it.

Be very careful with blade angle and once it's grown out a little go over your face with your hands and make note of the growth direction. The direction on my neck are different on each side; on the left it's about straight down and on the right it angles up from adam's apple to ear. I find Cella shave cream to be very cushiony even if watered down. Your blades will matter too. I like Feathers and Sharks after 5 years of Astras which tug by comparison. You might need a milder razor, and they are not expensive. A Lord L6 is like $8 on ebay and aliexpress has a Mellon head that so far I've found to be the mildest of all the heads I have. That's another $8 item. $ does not necessarily mean functionality for me. Sometimes I use a simple witch hazel splash as an AS too. It's really excellent.
 
change the shave angle, ride the bar... the wrong angle with irritate for sure
If nobody has mentioned it, be very careful about pressing the razor into your skin. Just let the weight of the razor do the work and don't press it in trying to get a close shave. Maybe hold it with thumb and two fingers and gently like a violin bow.

Also, maybe you need to do just one pass WTG and not try to get a BBS shave. One pass every day or every other day might be the best you can do. But I'm just speculating.
 
This thread has a lot of responses. My apologies if this is a duplicate response, as I haven't read through all of them yet.

With the grain/across the grain/against the grain (WTG/XTG/ATG) can be tricky to determine if you haven't "mapped" your hair growth direction. For me, this matters primarily on my neck. What I have discovered is that the hair on my neck primarily grows "south to north," so the first pass on my neck is "south to north"--for me, that's WTG. I can only remember seeing people shave from "north to south" when shaving the neck (commercials, etc.). Doing "north to south" on my neck as my first pass is likely to cause neck skin irritation (red bumps, etc.).

This one simple change (first pass on my neck, go "south to north," not "north to south") has made a significant difference for me in achieving irritation-free shaves.

Hope this helps...
 
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