Help a Noob put together a shaving kit with 450 dlls.

[Zlaker]

Hi guys,

I’m new to the forums and want to go into shaving with a straight edge. I hope I'm posting this in the right place.

I’m looking to put together a whole kit for 450 dlls. (the highest I could go is 500 dlls)

I’ve done lots of reading on the subject and seen many reviews and videos but theory and experience are 2 different things.

So, as much as I can read about this and that razor and this and that brush, I’m still standing at the starting line trying to figure out which way to go.

I know all the input will be very subjective as it will be based on the experiences each and everyone of you has had with razors, creams, etc. but if there seems to be a consensus as to a specific model or brand it would help me with my decision.

I would not mind spending a little more on the razor (2/3 of my budget I guess as long as I can complete the kit with the 450 I have in mind.) as it will be a tool that will last a lifetime and I know better materials/razor will make my shaving experience a better one.

I don’t want to get something 1800’s, at least not while I’m learning. Also I would like to get something that I can find in the market, so it’s being currently produced and marketed.

I want to get:
Cutthroat blade
Badger brush
Shaving cream/soap
Strop
Pre-shaving (whatever is needed)
Quality aftershave (whatever is needed)

About my beard, the whiskers (hair) are thick, however my beard is not very populated, If you forget the sideburns which grow normally (1/2 In wide I guess) my beard is as follows, imagine a line that expands from the lips, from the lips up it grows sparsely on the cheekbone and down from to the lips its mid populated all the way down until it connects with my chest.

I want to get into shaving with a cutthroat razor because:
When I go to my barber I like the way the save feels, very smooth
It does not irritate my skin and the adrenaline of shaving like this is awesome.

Thanks in advance for your input,
-Zlaker

 

[jzuzphreek]

I haven't spent $450 in the year + that I've been around here, so I'm sure there will be plenty to come along and help you spend your money to it's fullest extent. However, I might suggest a bit leaner first setup just to be sure this will be something you will enjoy. I won't recommend specific items, as I'm not very good at that but I can tell you some great places to check out... namely, some of the B&B supporting vendors. West Coast Shaving, Bullgoose, and Italian Barber each have a wide range of items to try.

For preshave, there's not really much that you need There are some nice preshave oils and such out and around, but you really just need to be thoroughly hydrated prior to lathering up. A warm wet towel or shower will typically do the trick. As for aftershaves, I really prefer the cheap drugstore varieties... Aqua Velva, Pinaud (Clubman, Lilac Vegetal, Virgin Island Bay Rum), Stetson, and Old Spice... to name a few.

Also, if you're very new to straight razor shaving, I highly recommend getting an inexpensive entry level strop. If you're not used to stropping blades you WILL nick your strop, no matter how much you read or how careful you are. It'd be a shame to do that to a $150+ strop.

One GREAT place from which you can get a VERY inexpensive start with pretty good quality stuff is Whipped Dog. In addition to a variety of straight razors, brushes, and other accouterments, Larry has a "Sight Unseen" deal.

1 Straight Razor - $41
Add a Poor Man Strop Kit - $25
Add a brush and soap set - $25

That wouldn't put you out very much, and give you a really great entry into this deep, dark, rabbit hole. Because let's be honest, most people don't get sucked in here and only buy 1 razor ever.

Good luck, and post LOTS of questions, and do LOTS of reading. We're here to help!

Oh, almost forgot, check out the Straight Razor Clinic Stickies for more information than you could possibly read in a day or 12.

 

[jzuzphreek]

Oh! Also, why don't you head over to the New Member Hall of Fame and check in there to tell us a bit about yourself.

And again, WELCOME to Badger and Blade!!

 

[Zlaker]

Thanks jzuzphreek,

I'll definitely look at the guide and the websites you have listed.

Also stoped by the Hall of Fame to register .

Cheers,
Zlaker

 

[KW Driver]

yeah, come on down to the Straight razor sub forum. this has been addressed repeatedly.

Whipped Dog is definitely a great place to start, and I have a couple of his brushes. they are way, way undervalued for the performance you get from them. I got my straight shaving start with him as well.

you can also pick up known quantity, honestly shave ready razors here in the marketplace from vendors/hobbyists, or regular users in the B/S/T area.

at that price range you can pick up several high quality vintage straights (that are actually more aesthetically pleasing to me) here, that will work and still come in under budget, with a starter/midrange strop, brush, and soaps.

if you buy new (nothing wrong with that), add in that you'll most likely have to find a honer to get it shave ready. a "factory touted shave ready" edge generally isn't. to include Hart Steel's claim to shave readiness. I had to dress up the edge I got on my Hart.

 

[Jarick]

Might I recommend picking up a DE razor first? You can get a DE razor and a ton of blades for about $50 and that should help you quite a bit while learning and/or if you are feeling a bit lazy. Maybe in addition to the straight and what not.

I don't know anything about straight razors, but I do know that Larry at Whipped Dog has a bunch of straights and the strop kit and what not. He also has excellent badger hair brushes. Actually, just go to WhippedDog.com and send him and e-mail and he will get you everything you need except for the cream and aftershave.

For the rest of it, this stuff I've found is very good:

- Pacific pre-shave oil
- Taylor of Old Bond St cream (your choice of scent)
- Thayer's Witch Hazel or Lucky Tiger aftershave (or any aftershave of your choice)
- If you need it, try some Nivea aftershave balm or a light face lotion

I don't think Larry will steer you wrong or take advantage of you. You'll probably not spend nearly as much as your budget, but you can try some things out and figure out what you do and don't like and then go from there.

 

[Acmemfg]

Head over to The Superior Shave and check into his kits. Great prices, great service and gear you won't readily "outgrow"

 

[ouch]

How have you been shaving up to now? You may want to first master the intricacies (nah, they're simple) of DE shaving- lather, angles, pressure, etc. After you're comfortable with traditional style shaving, it will be easier to master the straight, which takes considerable effort.

For a first razor I'd suggest perusing the b/s/t sub-forum for an inexpensive but sound and shave ready blade from a respected member.

 

[Novacula Acuta]

+1 on Whipped Dog, best intro package for straights/brushes. It'll give you a chance to test out some mid-level quality products that you can later sell for 75% of what you paid. Save the bigger purchases for items you know you'll enjoy after gaining some experience.

 

[mmack66]

What is the conversion rate of dlls to dollars?

 

[Zlaker]

Hi guys,

Thanks for the reply’s

How have you been shaving up to now? You may want to first master the intricacies (nah, they're simple) of DE shaving- lather, angles, pressure, etc. After you're comfortable with traditional style shaving, it will be easier to master the straight, which takes considerable effort.


For a first razor I'd suggest perusing the b/s/t sub-forum for an inexpensive but sound and shave ready blade from a respected member.

I've been shaving with a Gillette Fusion. I’m thinking about the B/S/T place on the site but I don’t have 50 quality posts yet, so I’m working my way there slowly. I’m also looking for a Gillette Fat Boy E2 as I want to give that one as a gift for my father.

As far as going into a DE first, either Straight or DE are ok. After all its learning 2 different methods with small variants and cuts will happen during the learning curve of both, so I'm thinking a Straight edge for the weekends when I have more time and can slow down further and a DE for the day to day shaving.

Head over to The Superior Shave and check into his kits. Great prices, great service and gear you won't readily "outgrow"

Have been checking out the kits, they look OK. I don’t mind spending a bit more on separate items. I understand the point on getting the starter kits but I much rather get good quality items that will be used often i.o. being stuck with cheaper/mid-range items that won’t be used.

I can't seem to find one website that has everything that I would like to get in the same place, some have some items cheaper but sold out while others have them at a higher range. And it seems I'll have to mix and match vendors. i.e. Superor Shave does not carry Taylor of Old Bond Street while SRD carries it but does not have Dovo Bismark’s on stock at the moment.

What is the conversion rate of dlls to dollars?

My guess is half as it uses half the letters

Cheers
-Martin

 

[jzuzphreek]

Hi guys,

Thanks for the reply’s



I've been shaving with a Gillette Fusion. I’m thinking about the B/S/T place on the site but I don’t have 50 quality posts yet, so I’m working my way there slowly. I’m also looking for a Gillette Fat Boy E2 as I want to give that one as a gift for my father.

As far as going into a DE first, either Straight or DE are ok. After all its learning 2 different methods with small variants and cuts will happen during the learning curve of both, so I'm thinking a Straight edge for the weekends when I have more time and can slow down further and a DE for the day to day shaving.



Have been checking out the kits, they look OK. I don’t mind spending a bit more on separate items. I understand the point on getting the starter kits but I much rather get good quality items that will be used often i.o. being stuck with cheaper/mid-range items that won’t be used.

I can't seem to find one website that has everything that I would like to get in the same place, some have some items cheaper but sold out while others have them at a higher range. And it seems I'll have to mix and match vendors. i.e. Superor Shave does not carry Taylor of Old Bond Street while SRD carries it but does not have Dovo Bismark’s on stock at the moment.



My guess is half as it uses half the letters

Cheers
-Martin

FWIW, you only need 50 posts to post a thread. You can still browse and shop other people's sells. Lots of great deals to be had.

 

[Icebear]

I would spent as much as possible to get the best straight razor. This will save you in the long run.
Tim Zowanda 2H2H ($375) is a real steal, usually his work starts MUCH higher.
Alternative made by Zowanda trained guys (AFAIK): Hartsteel.You will need a strop to keep your razor in shape.

You can get decent brushes (SOC boar) for less than $30. You can upgrade later anytime. Buying a cheap razor in the first place is a waste of money, if you are already sure that straight razor shaving is your thing.

I tried it (Dovo Bismark), I didn't kill myself obviously and I did get a great shave but it takes too much concentration and time. I shave in the morning and therefore DE shaving is more my thing.

 

[Chaloney]

Get the kit from superior shave if they have a razor you like. The quality is high even though the cost is reasonable. Anything more than that is either extra fancy materials that add to the look but not much to the function, or else it's a personal preference thing. I started with one of these kits and I still use all of it every day except the dovo best razor which rotates with the other razors I've acquired since.

I'd also get either an omega boar brush -- even the ones costing around $10 are highly thought of, or a silver tip brush from whipped dog, but ask to have the loft lowered a bit from his standard (loft is a measure of how high the hairs stick out of the brush). Any more money spent on either type of brush MAY give a noticeable difference once you have some experience, but not when you are starting out.

As as far as soaps go, tabac is the way to go. A few don't like the scent, but the performance is tops and it is super easy to lather. Martin de candre is great also if you want something expensive. I colonali gets good reviews as do mikes natural soaps and Mitchell's wool fat. Valobra has just released soap pucks that are reported to be excellent. They used to make the shaving soaps for the art of shaving stores.

As for aftershaves, go to your local drug store and pick an alcohol based splash they smells good. If you find it drying, adding a few drops of glycerin to the bottle can solve it. Many already have glycerin added. Scent preference is so individual I can't make any more specific recommendations than that.

You our don't need a pre shave oil, although some prefer the, I've found that they don't make much difference for me. My approach to shave prep is to use a face scrub (Nivea or neutrogena work well, as do Clinique or billy jealousy if you want to spend more) while I shower, then wash with soap. I tend to be fairly gentle with the scrub--it makes a difference especially on my neck, but if I scrub too hard or too much it gets irritated after shaving. After I shower I build my lather and apply it. I then strop my razor. After this I rinse with cold water (others prefer warm water), reapply lather then shave. I shave three passes. First is mainly down which for me is mostly with the grain. Then I rinse then relather and shave from the middle out. Another rinse than shave from outside towards the middle. These two passes are mostly across the grain in each direction, but on my neck the last one is against the grain in some areas. I can get a very close shave this way. It took me about 5-6 months to develop the coordination and to figure out these passes. I occasionally try slight changes but I haven't found anything better for the last month or so (I started wet shaving in May, with a straight razor. Only used a de a few times starting in September).

If you decide starting with a vintage razor is ok, the hobbyist forum, the b/s/t, or whipped dog are the way to go. Many of the razors for sale elsewhere are not as sharp as they need to be to shave well. If a member here says its shave ready, they generally are. If you are not sure, ask them.

If you go with one of these razors, a strop from the superior shave will serve you well. Alternatively whipped dog sells a "poor mans strop kit" that is pretty ideal for beginners because it is inexpensive. No matter what you do, you will nick your first strop while you are learning the movement. Cheap is a good criteria to start with. It is often recommended for a new straight shaver to take a full sheet of newspaper and fold it lengthwise over and over into a long strip about 3 inches wide. Pass one end over a towel bat, pinch the ends together, pull taut and strop on it for the first week or so. Nearly as effective as leather and no worries if you slice it up while you are learning.

If if you've made it this far in my post you must be pretty serious. Come to the straight razor section of the forums--lots more straight shavers with lots more experience and good advice than mine. Very welcoming and willing to answer questions and help you through the challenges you can run into.

Also, if you let us know where you are located (at least what country) we may be able to recommend vendors closer to you to avoid some outrageous shipping costs if you are not in the United States.

Feel free reel to pm any questions, but better yet is to post them so everyone can see the answers.

 

[Chaloney]

I forgot to mention, wherever you get your razor, go to the superior shave and get some (or just one if you only plan on having one razor) of his silicone treated razor sleeves. They are grey cotton selves to keep the razors in to minimize the chance of corrosion. Also, after shaving, dry the razor blade with dry toilet tissue then "floss" between the scales to get them dry too. Razors are made (usually) of high carbon steel which is easily corroded by water. When you rinse the blade, keep the toe of the razor down to keep water out of the pivot as it is very difficult to dry it. After drying it, strop it a few times--10 laps or so (a lap means up one side and back on the other). This can help with drying, with removing anything that didn't rinse or wipe off the edge, and when done on leather it may get some oil from the leather n the blade, further protecting it from corrosion

 

[weizemanner]

I know it's a little bit more... But SSSOOOOO worth it. http://www.zafirro.com/products/Zafirro-Iridium.html

On a more serious note. 400 bucks should be able to buy you a pretty sweet collection.

 

[Zlaker]

Thanks for the tips Matt, I'm in Mexico City but I can have stuff shipped to my parents house in AZ and I can pick it up for Xmas. So location is not a problem. I was considering the poor mans strop to start, then move to something nice . As for the sleeve, thanks for the tip, I saw it on the kits they sell on the site but did not know what it was for I thought it was just for storing.

Is there a way in which I can move the straight razor sub forum, as to not repost the whole thing?

weizemanner, Had one, didn't like it threw it in the trash, j/k. Real man don't shave with sapphire we shave with metal blades or lightsabers.

 

[Slash McCoy]

+1 on vintage straights. Most vintage razors are of excellent quality and there is a huge cool factor in shaving with a 100 year old blade and getting a nicer shave than the latest and greatest from P&G. The only problems with vintage razors are related to the condition of the razor. Often a razor will no longer have a nice straight edge. It might have a "heel hook". Might be tapered. Might just be worn to 1/2 its original width. But a vintage razor in good shape is a great buy. Just make sure it is Shave-Ready and not just claimed to be so by some ebay vendor.

It is a good idea to start with more than one straight. You should have a backup to shave with in case you have to send your other one out for honing, or it is out of action for a few days while you try to teach yourself to hone it.

Vintage razors can be just vintage, or they can be fully restored. Restoration generally entails fully polishing the razor to get rid of all rust and most scratches and other surface imperfections, maybe reducing the stabilizer if needed, sometimes polishing or sometimes replacing the scales, etc. A decent restoration is going to set you back at least $60 and likely a good bit more. A vintage blade that has simply been cleaned up a bit and honed to shave-ready condition might be as little as $25 or as much as $100 or even more, depending on condition and brand/model. Some vintage razors are highly sought and the demand, in the face of limited supply, can have a razor selling for much more than its functionality would call for. www.whippeddog.com is one of our favorite sources for vintage razors. Larry will get you in the game pretty cheap. His sight unseen deal sounds scary but really, you don't have any preferences yet, so it really doesn't matter a whole lot what yu get for your first razor. At his prices, may as well get two of them. Buca3152, one of our members, sells shave-ready GOld Dollar razors for $22 and it doesn't get much cheaper than that. Not a high quality razor but it will definitely gitter done. My favorite razors are all Gold Dollars that I have modified/improved. The steel is good, they are just ground by unskilled Chinese workers who are just making something that looks like a picture of a straigt razor. But they can be greatly improved with a lot of work. Meanwhile Buca3152 does very little other than honing the razor to shave-ready condition and so he is able to sell them for basically only the price of a honing.

Now if you want to throw a nice new razor into the mix, I would suggest a Dovo Bismarck, shave-ready from Straight Razor Designs, or a Dovo Palisander from www.thesuperiorshave.com, also shave-ready. Most new razors are NOT shave-ready. Remember that when shopping online. Beware of cheap new razors. If it is less than $50 and brand new, there is a very good chance that it is merely a "Razor Shaped Object" and not to be taken seriously as a shaving tool. YMMV.

If you want to go DE, with your budget you might want to look at the all-stainless DE made in Japan by Feather. A real nice razor. There are lots of very nice new DE razors for well under $100 and some for well under $40. There are an awful lot of vintage Gillette razors to be had, too. With your budget you might want to look at a nice Executive. At least a FatBoy or a Slim. Unlike straight razors, DE razors can be bought on ebay with a reasonable chance of getting something usable. BST is another good place to look, for either straight or DE razors.

I can afford "better" strops, but my favorite is the Big Daddy, sold by www.starshaving.com. I have two of them, one for home and one for work. To spare your BD strop from the worst of your initial stropping mistakes, either get the Poor Man Strop Kit from Larry at Whipped Dog, or strop on newspaper folded up into a strop. After a week or two, if you are confident, switch to your good strop. What's nice about the BD is first of all, it IS really big. Long, and wide, at 3". Second, the hardware is removable. If you nick up the right hand edge, you can swap ends with the leather, and then the nicks are over on the left edge where they won't be a problem. You can also simply replace the leather entirely, either cutting a piece yourself, or using a spare leather sold by star shaving.

Now your brush and soap. Even with your current shaving setup, you will get better results with proper prep and lather. So I suggest that you learn to lather before you learn to use your straight or DE. At your budget level, you may as well go with a big silvertip right off the bat. Not much you can do as a newbie to ruin it. Larry often has nice big silvertip knots in stock. He will set it at the loft you ask for, or just tell him you want it with some backbone, or a lot, or you want it soft and floppy. He will give you a good brush to your specs for a very good price. I would go for at least a 26mm brush, myself. I prefer them even bigger. YMMV. Big name brushes differ mostly in the handle. A molded handle is naturally going to be cheaper than one hand turned on a lathe. But it won't give you any worse shave. I like the Chinese silvertips made by Virginia Sheng. Excellent, hardly ever sheds a hair, and about the same price as Larry's brushes but of course it takes longer to ship from China. So for your first brush I recommend the Whipped Dog.

You need a mug or bowl. A ceramic mug from the kitchen, or the thrift store, will work just fine. Then you need soap for it. Van Der Hagen is quite adequate, and less than two bucks a puck. You can usually find it at walmart or walgreens or some groceries. It melts in the microwave in about 25 seconds so you can melt it in your mug and let it solidify, and it ain't gonna move. You might prefer a cream, though. Kiss My Face is popular due to its ready availability, low price, and good performance. I like Godrej, in the red tube, from India. It makes the slickest lather I have ever experienced, and it leaves the face soft and moisturized. Most body & bath type places, as well as the Art Of Shaving shops, have a selection of creams and soaps. Please don't spend a ton of cash on razors and stuff at AOS because their prices are terrible, but for soap or cream I give them a half thumb up, mainly just because you can smell the wares. TBH, a lot of guys prefer their favorite mostly because of the scent.

You might want to take this opportunity to switch aftershaves. There is a lot of love here for some of the classics like Floid, Lucky Tiger, Pinaud Clubman, and various Bay Rum formulas from different makers. Probably the best bang for the buck is the Clubman, but my personal favorite is Ogallala Double Strength Bay Rum. Runner up is tied between Virgin Islands Bay Rum and Layrite #9. For a gentler AS, try the Lucky Tiger, or Nivea Aftershave Balm. None of these are particularly expensive.

Oh back to DE... you will need blades, too. I suggest only using ONE brand of blade for the first couple of weeks. Don't switch back and forth while you are trying to nail down your technique. You don't need an extra variable early on. But later, do get a sampler pack so you can figure out what blades work best for you. A good one to start with would be Gillette 7 O'clock Greens, or red pack Israeli Personnas, or blue pack Personnas. Most popular blades will do for your first blade.

If you go straight, there is one more thing you ought to have... a pasted balsa strop. This is used to keep your edge sharp between honings, and possibly even eliminate the need for re-honing. Basically you take a piece of balsa from your local hobby shop or online, and sand it perfectly flat on a whole sheet of sandpaper glued to a heavy piece of glass. The balsa should be 3" x 12" and at least a half inch thick. To one side, apply .5u diamond paste. The other side gets .1u diamond paste. I get my pastes from www.tedpella.com. Only apply about a half pea size amount. It will seem like it is not enough but it is. You don't want a coating... you want the diamond to be embedded in the balsa for best results. After every shave, I strop about 50 laps on the fine side. Rarely, I may have to also hit the coarse side when the fine side alone is not keeping up. Larry ships a block of balsa with his famous Poor Man Strop Kit, pasted with chromium oxide (green paste) and iron oxide (red paste) and while I prefer diamond, the red and green will work.

I suggest first learning to lather, while you continue to shave with your current setup. Then decide on either DE or straight, and concentrate on just one or the other for at least a month before trying the other. If you think you will end up shaving with a straight, no need to use DE as some sort of stepping stone. Just go right into it. If you are not sure, then try DE first. You might decide you don't need to go straight, once you are comfortable with DE.

 

[Zlaker]

Thanks all for the awesome comments and great input.

So far I believe I've made my mind about almost everything but the razor.

So here is what I'm getting, hopefully.

Primary Razor - Undecided
Secondary Razor - Sight Unseen form Whipped Dog
DE Razor - Gillette Fatboy E2
Brush - Custom made by John Turner
Bowl - Bulldog Shaving Mug from SRD or just a round Kitchen Coffe Mug I have.
Strop - Poor man strop kit from Whipped Dog
Stand for Brush & DE - Parker Compact Universal Chrome Stand from Shave Nation
Stand for Razor - Straight Razor Stand from SRD
Grey Cotton Sleeve to protect the razor.

Shaving Cream - Esbjerg grapefruit
Shaving Soap - TOBS Sandalwood soap
Aftershave balm - Esbjerb Aftershave gel grapefruit
Aftershave - TOBS #74 Victorian Lime or Trumper Extract of Lime

So what do you guys think?

Cheers,
-Zlaker

 

[Slash McCoy]

Sounds good but keep in mind you will want to upgrade your strop soon.