What's new

Hello, shaving Guru's. Intro and some questions

( I apologize in advance for this being VERY LONG. I have a lot of questions and I will truly be indebted to anyone who reads all of this and tries to help me out with answers )

Hello Gentlemen ( and ladies?? )

Greetings from wherever I may be at the moment. So, here's a little about my shaving past and present, and hopefully future.

I am not brand new to the wetshaving world, just new to the discussion. I currently have a Merkur Futur and an nice little vintage Gillette Slant that is super aggressive and that I have to be super careful with. I did have a Merkur Vision, but found it to be way too bulky and just not to my liking. I do enjoy my Futur, but I love the agile feel and aggressive shave of the slant. I kinda wish I could find another small, lightweight DE that gives an aggressive close shave, not quite as aggressive as the Slant ( the corners of the blade are really dangerous on it ), but that has the comfort of my Futur on about the 4 1/2 height setting.

I am just now getting into straight razors, and I would probably like to convert over to mostly straight raqzor shaving. I am a huge knife collector and it kinda makes sense for a blade collector who likes wetshaving to make the obvious progression to straight razors.

I have a couple of super cheap straights that I got on ebay and at local antique stores. I have used them to practice honing and stropping ( on a homemade paddle strop that I made and coated with Chrome Ox ) and to work on improving my technique for straight shaving. I recently tried to buy a Tosuke Japanese Straight on ebay because I really find the kamisori to be a beautiful bladed implement, but the seller ran into some difficulties and I never got the item. After that, I tried to buy a Dovo Bergischer Lowe, but after I made payment, the website found out they were out of stock and my payment was refunded. I hope this isn't a sign that the world doesn't want me shaving with a straight razor.

So, as of right now, I just have my Double Edges, and a couple of super cheap straights.

As far as accessories go, I have a super nice Silvertip Badger Brush that I got as a gift before I even got into DE and Straights. I have a pretty wide assortment of Shaving Creams from Truefitt and Hill, Penhaligons, Casswell-Massey, Bronnley, and others.

For Creams, I particularly like my Bronnley, Taylor's Avocado, Casswell-Massey Greenbriar, and Crabtree and Evelyn Sweet Almond Oil..............I also really like Pre de Provence soap in the little metal tin, as well as a little stick shaving soap that I came across at my wife's grandfather's house called Valobra that I think may be one of my all time favorite's and that I often use underneath one of my others.

I recently had my wedding at the Ritz Carlton New Orleans and happened to find a shaving cream at their spa called Boticario de Havana Formula No 312. Its more of a pre-shave cream than a true shaving cream, but I find that I can actually use it instead of a thickly lathered cream. It apparently has Orange Oil, Coffee, and Pineapple Extracts, and its awesome. I love the smell. In fact, I bought the hand lotion, too.....and the cologne, which smells a little bit different. Apparently it is Orange Blossom, Patchouli ( which I normally hate ), Bergamot, and Honeysuckle. Its a really nice maasculine, but clean and fresh smelling scent. Highly recommended.

The only aftershave that I can't live without is Trumper's Lime Skin Food. Its absolutely awesome.

As far as cologne's go, I always have some 4711 nearby, but I am a big fragrance collector, as well. Creed Silver Mountain Water and Millisime Imperial are my two top picks........along with Original Vetiver and Green Irish Tweed. I really like Tom Ford's Neroli & Art of Shaving Lemon EdT and wear them often. As I said, I wear my Boticario de Havana cologne frequently, as well. I am a big fan of D.R. Harris Arlington, but I ran out a while back and haven't gotten a new bottle.

I'm hoping you gentlemen can help me out with some questions. Obviously, by browsing the forums, I will be able to find out a lot of information that should help me out, but maybe someone can answer a few quick questions for me.

First off, as I seek to dive into straight razors, I would really like to get 2 or 3 more cheap razors so that I can 1. get some more practice honing and stropping 2. get some more practice straight shaving and 3. learn what types of straight razors I prefer i.e. size, blade shape, etc. I think that I prefer Square Point ( I think that is what its called ), but I would really like to try a French Point. Also, I've never tried a Kamisori before, but I've heard they take a super wicked sharp edge and are great shavers if you get a good one and hone it correctly.

So, is ebay really the best place to get old user straights. You know, I'm not looking for something with rusty pitted blades and an edge that looks like the grill of a hockey player from the 1920's. I'd like to get a few blades for under $30-$40 that I can practice sharpening with and that will actually give me a decent shave one I'm done. Is there a good website to find that kind of thing?

Secondly, when it comes to honing. I have a Dia-Sharp Extra Extra Fine 8000 mesh 3 micron Diamond Hone. Its one of those all metal ones that supposedly has the diamonds embedded in the metal. I also have an antique John Primble Hone. Its a small grayish colored stone that is super smooth, like ceramic. Do I need any more than this to get a good edge on a straight? I've been able to get good shaving edges on the cheap razors I've had, but I've heard about people who are able to get an edge that glides just butter smooth ( in fact, the girl that gave me the straight razor shave at the Ritz on my wedding day had a razor that was that sharp ) So, if I need something more, where is the best place to find it. I've heard all about Coticules, and Norton 4K/8K's, and Naniwa 10K's and 12K's, and super expensive Japanese Waterstones, but do I need all of that?

Also, I don't have a quality strop right now. Here's where another aspect of my hobbies comes in however. I have recently begun using a strop for my knives. I've started putting convex grind on a large number of my knives. Due to the extra support of the metal behind the edge, the convex grind cuts super well ( especially on Full Flat Ground blades ) but also stays sharp nearly twice as long in my experience. You have to have a strop with paste on it to keep a convex grind sharp. So, I'm actually planning to get 2 strops. So, if you were going to get 2 strops and pastes that you could use ( preferably different kinds ) so that you could go progressively smaller.......for example, maybe 1 micron paste or spray on the cloth side of one strop, 0.5 micron spray on the leather side of the first strop, then 0.25 on the cloth side of the 2nd strop, then plain leather on the 2nd strop second side............which two strops would you pick?

I really do want to buy a couple of straight razors. I definitely want to get a Kamisori, but I don't really know enough about them to pick out the best one. I was going to get a Tosuke because that is the only name I recognize, but I have also heard that there are a lot of fakes out there and that there are also better name brands of Japanese Straight Razors. As far as traditional western straights, I was going to get a Dovo, as I said, but I would really like to get a Dubl Duck and a Filarmonica. the two people that I know who seem to know alot about straights have both raved about those two brands. They just seem kinda hard to come by, and also look to be quite expensive. I'd love to hear some folks thoughts on those, as well.

Anyway, I'm sure you fine folks will see me around the forums, asking questions here and there. Maybe one day I'll be one of the old timers who can help out newbies like myself..

Have a great weekend, all, and thanks for providing info for guys like me!

BladedOne
 
Welcome to B&B.

I don't know much about straights and maybe someone on this forum may chime in. However, you may be able to get more of your questions answered on the straight razor forums. You will find a wealth of information there.
 
Welcome to the fun house BladedOne! I'm pretty new to traditional wet-shaving, but you should be able to find the answers to all your questions here. If you're local to New Orleans, I would suggest visiting the Jefferson Flea Market on Airline Hwy near Williams Blvd in Kenner. I acquired my first DE there, a Gillette NEW. Several vendors there always have a variety of DEs, Straights, Brushes, etc.

Congratulations on your recent nuptials! The Ritz in New Orleans is a truly beautiful place, especially with the recent renovations Post-Katrina. To think, that magnificent building used to be a department store!
 

Luc

"To Wiki or Not To Wiki, That's The Question".
Staff member
Welcome to B&B!

Mmm, okay, you might want to slow down a bit before jumping in that quickly.

My recommendation would be to first start with a shave ready straight razor. Buy one that was sharpened by someone (A factory edge by Dovo, as an example, isn't shave ready). There's a bunch of those by either the B&B vendors or the BST (Buy/Sell/Trade). Start with that, it will give you an idea on what shave ready means.

After that, what you need to hone, well, that really depends on you. If you want to maintain the edge of your razors, you won't need a full set of stones. If you want to hone from A to Z (Bevel reset, progressive honing to a fine stone), that takes a couple of stones. Usually something like a 1k, 4k, 8k and >12k... Usually...

Keep in mind that using a straight razor isn't for everyone either. Some tried it and they were not able to get good shaves out of them. Others loved it but it takes time and practice...

I would suggest the interactive guide to straight razor shaving, it should get you on track: http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Interactive_Guide_to_Straight_Razor_Shaving
 
Welcome to B&B!

My recommendation would be to first start with a shave ready straight razor. Buy one that was sharpened by someone (A factory edge by Dovo, as an example, isn't shave ready). There's a bunch of those by either the B&B vendors or the BST (Buy/Sell/Trade). Start with that, it will give you an idea on what shave ready means.

After that, what you need to hone, well, that really depends on you. If you want to maintain the edge of your razors, you won't need a full set of stones. If you want to hone from A to Z (Bevel reset, progressive honing to a fine stone), that takes a couple of stones. Usually something like a 1k, 4k, 8k and >12k... Usually...

Keep in mind that using a straight razor isn't for everyone either. Some tried it and they were not able to get good shaves out of them. Others loved it but it takes time and practice...

Thanks for the info Luc. Maybe I didn't explain it right. I've been shaving with a straight razor for quite some time now, since last November, to be exact. I have a couple of cheapie models that I have managed to keep in shaveable condition on my 8K Dia-sharp and my other razor hone and homemade strop.

I'm just ready now to upgrade to a couple of better blades, and nice strop, and some nice stones. Well, I actually do want to buy a few more cheapies first. A little more practice never hurt anyone........but I am getting good shaves right now. Of course, it can definitely get better, too

Thanks for all the info from everyone.


PS--Anything nice that I plan to buy, I want to get new, but surely there are some throwaways out there that people would rather get some cash than just toss. ( Keep in mind, tho, that I don't have the equipment to restore an edge, so nothing that's too bad off )
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Mike H

Instagram Famous
Welcome BladeOne,

Straights -you might email Larry at wippeddog.com, he is a member here and has a used straights for sale at reasonable prices. Let him know what you are looking for. Check the BST forum also, some good deals can be found there too.

Strops - I like the Illinois 127 or Big Mamma as an intermediate strop.

Hones - oh man what a choices you have. But following up your current 8K with a pasted strop should be just fine.

Posting additional questions in the straight razor forum may get you better results too.
 

Luc

"To Wiki or Not To Wiki, That's The Question".
Staff member
Thanks for the info Luc. Maybe I didn't explain it right. I've been shaving with a straight razor for quite some time now, since last November, to be exact. I have a couple of cheapie models that I have managed to keep in shaveable condition on my 8K Dia-sharp and my other razor hone and homemade strop.

I'm just ready now to upgrade to a couple of better blades, and nice strop, and some nice stones. Well, I actually do want to buy a few more cheapies first. A little more practice never hurt anyone........but I am getting good shaves right now. Of course, it can definitely get better, too

Thanks for all the info from everyone.


PS--Anything nice that I plan to buy, I want to get new, but surely there are some throwaways out there that people would rather get some cash than just toss. ( Keep in mind, tho, that I don't have the equipment to restore an edge, so nothing that's too bad off )

Right, either way, you need to ask yourself what you want to do with the straights. As I mentioned, if you get a full set of hones, it will cost you a bit more. You seem to have what you need to maintain the edge on a straight. A 8k could be all right to shave but I cannot imagine the shave to be very smooth. My recommendation would be to try something from someone and ask what they used. It makes a big difference when the straight was finished on a stone that was above 12k for sure!

On what to get, BST will get you something that's for sure. Most sellers will sell the straight shave ready (unless mentioned otherwise or not mentioned shave ready). eBay could be the other option for cheap straights but keep in mind that you are gambling your way if you do not know what to look for. I did a page in Wiki a little while ago, it covers some parts and should help: http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/What_to_look_for_when_buying_a_second_hand_straight_razor
 
If you want to pick up your game when it comes to honing straight razors I'd suggest you hang out on the honing forum boards and start reading threads there

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/forumdisplay.php/80-Hones-Honing

what has become quite popular & economical in regards to honing straight razors is the use of lapping film. I've used film to hone straight razors and I also recommend using it

your use of the pasted strop w/Crox is sound. many here use Cr0x for finishing. I used some tonight in fact, just to pick up an edge...I'll shave with it soon=:)

if you'd like more info about using lapping film to hone straight razors, take a look at this thread

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/283576-Lapping-film-try-it

To quote you, you said-

"So, if I need something more, where is the best place to find it. I've heard all about Coticules, and Norton 4K/8K's, and Naniwa 10K's and 12K's, and super expensive Japanese Waterstones, but do I need all of that?"


~~~~FWIW, I started out using coticules and stuck with them. They are a fine way to hone with and not necessarily expensive. Same with J-Nats. I bought one for $150 and have been using it as a finisher with good results. A decent coticule set up could set you back $100, but that's where using lapping film gets interesting. So long as you have a hone to correct your razor's bevels, you could get by for a long time using a dollar's worth of lapping film. the problem there is the way lapping film is sold from vendors. the sheets are sold in 10 packs. One sheet can supply 3 to 4 strips. You only need one strip in a few grits, if you have a 1 K stone for bevel correcting, or a coticule

i've used coticule to correct the bevel on a dull razor then went straight to 3um lapping film (60 laps) then 60 laps on 1um film (another 40 on 1um w/a sheet of wet copy paper underneath), then a Cr0x pasted strop. that will give you a nice sharp edge to shave with. Not as smooth as coticule but shave ready sharp none the less

so again, if you had a bevel setter/correcting hone (1K syn, coticule) and one strip each of 3 and 1 um lapping film, bingo!, all you would need to use the film is a piece of tile, or glass...the tiles at the home stores work well. I bought a $5 tile (marble sill) from home depot, works well

another option for a bevel setter/corrector is a small coticule bout. take a look at the bouts thesuperiorshave.com sells or you could go the 1 K syn stone (Norton) route for about $40...the chinese 1 K stones which are natural need a lot of lapping but you can find them for about $25. I think woodcraft sells them, ebay vendors do but they need a lot of lapping work. some say harbor freight sells economical lapping plates, in the 1K category and under. I think I'd want a 350 grit lapping plate if I had to tackle a chinese 1 K hone, but you only need to lap one side. some use sand paper using a progresssion of grits to lap difficult hones, 60 grit, 100, 180 on and on or only a few, then use the slurry stone that came with the C1K to polish it

*if* you used a coticule for bevel correcting, so long as the edge only had minor micro chipping, that would be a good way to go but that's where a 1 K hone comes in...it will correct the bevel quicker, and if you used a 3um film after the 1K hone, that would be a quite acceptable bridge (1K to 3um), then to 1um then to Cr0x strop, and shave

if you end up buying used ebay razors to practice your honing skills, and a good place to source them, often the razors may or will have chips in the edge and if the chips are sizeable...a 600 grit DMT will work quicker than a 1 K hone so, an assortment of 1 K and sub 1 K hones will be needed. harbor freight has the least costliest of diamond metal hones. A DMT brand combination plate (2 grits) will run $80 from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/DMT-WM8FC-WB-...uo+sharp+bench+stone+8+duosharp+++bench+stone

so, it all depends what type of razors you want to work with, to determine a budget for spending on hones. you could watch the bst forum here for used hones http://badgerandblade.com/vb/forumdisplay.php/11-Shaving-Mall-Buy-Sell-Trade


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
 
Top Bottom