I got up to 2000grit at autozone for pretty cheap. I think they even had mixed packs with several high grits.
Hand sanding progression
- Thread starter DrColossus11
- Start date
Has anyone tried micro-mesh? I have it works well but, it is more expensive.
Great thread. Thanks for sharing. I've enjoyed seeing your progress.
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks for checking it out. It started as a question, but has since evolved.
Picked up 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit today. Couldn't find 800 anywhere. Might have to skip it. Also, dropping back down to 400 for a few as I saw some scratches in the pics that weren't visible to me before.
- Thread starter
- #25
Got up to 2000 grit today, ended up with a slight mirror finish. I'm happy with the results. I really just want to get them sent out fot honing.
Boker
Imp
They look better without the finger prints.
Boker
Imp
They look better without the finger prints.
Great work they look awesome!
This really came out great. Thoughts on scales?
- Thread starter
- #28
I have a set of rosewood scales I picked up from BST for the Boker. The Imp is heading off to Nerdman for some customs.
Good job. Sanding can be a complete pain in the rear but quite rewarding as you progress in grits.
That IMP is a great razor but looks like some uneven wear from heal to tip so it may have to loose some of the heel to make it even. But it will still be a great shaver after it's honed properly.
That IMP is a great razor but looks like some uneven wear from heal to tip so it may have to loose some of the heel to make it even. But it will still be a great shaver after it's honed properly.
Just curious as to how much "dust" one can expect from hand sanding a blade like this? Just wondering if it's something I should do downstairs in my shop or can I plug away in front of the TV without making a mess?
- Thread starter
- #31
I did it in front of the couch in front of the TV. I used a trick I learned in my high school jewelry class. Fold a couple of pieces of printer paper into quarters. Loop some masking tape and cover one side with it. Now, overlap more masking tape sticky side up across the length of the paper. Trim out the paper by taping a border (sticky side down) to it. Finally, press it onto your jeans and pull it off a couple times. This grabs some lint and makes it less sticky. The sanding pad will hold your razor in place and collect most of the dust.
Let me know if this makes sense at all.
I'm trying to imagine what this would be but I'm having a hard time... don't suppose if you get a few minutes tomorrow you could maybe snap a picture of one of these rigs?
- Thread starter
- #33
when hand sanding, do you wet the paper or keep it dry? also, do you apply any sort of polish when transitioning to a finer grit paper?
i just purchased a vintage razor, and it appears to be in decent shape. i want to polish it up, and i am thinking of going the hand sanding method. i am having a little trouble picturing what it looks like to completely remove the marks/scratches from the previous grit. any elaboration on this issue would be greatly appreciated. thanks all!
i just purchased a vintage razor, and it appears to be in decent shape. i want to polish it up, and i am thinking of going the hand sanding method. i am having a little trouble picturing what it looks like to completely remove the marks/scratches from the previous grit. any elaboration on this issue would be greatly appreciated. thanks all!
I use wd40 with my hand sanding to keep the metal from building up on the paper.
Micro mesh is good stuff, you can also use maas or other polishes etc to go past 2000 grit sandpaper
Micro mesh is good stuff, you can also use maas or other polishes etc to go past 2000 grit sandpaper
Very nice.
autozone carries up to 2500
Great resto Jay, It is so satisfying to do those restos.
I've seen this a few times,,,I don't understand what that means,,,,,seems to me that the whole point of moving to the finer grit is to remove the scratches from the previous grit. Am I missing something here?
I'm not quite sure what you don't understand or are missing. It would be possible to sand something to 220 grit and move to 400 grit but not have all the deeper scratches sanded out from a 180 grit paper. Moving to 400 grit paper before removing all the deeper scratches from the 180 grit would be a waste of time because the deeper scratches from the 180 grit would still be visible. You'd have a mostly sanded product of 400 grit but would still see visible scratches that remained from the 180 grit.
You remove less and less material with each progressively finer grit. ie it takes longer to take out a scratch with 2000 grit than it would with 180 grit paper. More work would have to be done at the 220 grit level to make sure all the previous grit scratching is all now 220 grit. Hope that clarifies.
You remove less and less material with each progressively finer grit. ie it takes longer to take out a scratch with 2000 grit than it would with 180 grit paper. More work would have to be done at the 220 grit level to make sure all the previous grit scratching is all now 220 grit. Hope that clarifies.
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