What's new

Hand Sanding and Removing Black Spots

Does anyone have any tips for removing black spots/coloring from a blade? I started with some metal polish hoping that would remove it with no luck. The blade feels very smooth. I started sanding and got some to come off the tang after a lot of sanding. It looks as though there is small pitting that the black coloring is in. I don't mind the pitting if it's there. I would just like to get rid of the coloration. I planned on stopping to pick up some more sand paper this evening, as the lowest wet/dry grit I have it 220. I wanted to make sure there wasn't a way around removing a lot of metal before I did so. It's a 6/8 Joseph Rodgers and Sons Cutlers to Their Majesties. Sorry for the bad pictures, but I though they might help some.
IMG_20170922_215732_334.jpg
20170922_215003.jpg
 
Thanks! I picked up some lower grit sandpapers, but haven't had a chance to give them a try. I don't mind leaving some or all of the pitting, I just really wanted to try and clean it out.
 
I've had a lot of luck with using a Dremel with the stainless or brass wire wheel. With a light touch you can go over areas of heavy rust and putting and "polish" the section. Once you hit it with some polish after the fact it usually is white metal or nearly white. You really must use a soft touch using a Dremel, I have broken 2 razors due to me being inattentive..... If you linger in one spot too long with too much pressure, you run the risk of overheating the metal and ruining the blade. It's best to have a light touch when using any power tool around a scalpel sharp object.... Another option in the same vein is to pick up a small brass or stainless wire brush and a can of WD40. This should work just as well, though it may take a hair more time.
Other folks might tell you to steer clear of the Dremel, but YMMV. Good luck!


Edit: Loads of sandpaper will work too, but removing the pitting sometimes means removing a lot of metal which can change the look of your razor and can change the bevel setting geometry while honing.
 
Last edited:
@Luecke2326 Thanks for the tips. I have been trying to stay away from the Dremel, because I worry about damaging the blade as you mention. I might have to pick up some cheap blades and give it a try to see how far it can go. Maybe I will start with a small wire brush and see what that does. I don't mind the pitting. If it is the difference between maintaining the original blade as much as possible and removing the pitting, I am happy to leave it. Thanks again!
 
As above have said....WD40 works well along with sand paper to remove most oxidization and spotting. Mix in a wire brush to help clean out the pits and all might be good.

I have a rule that i try to stick by....use the least agressive methods or you will be faced with alot of clean up work after ( so think 40 grit sanding scratches verses 600 grit....much easier to remove 600 grit scratches)
 
As above have said....WD40 works well along with sand paper to remove most oxidization and spotting. Mix in a wire brush to help clean out the pits and all might be good.

I have a rule that i try to stick by....use the least agressive methods or you will be faced with alot of clean up work after ( so think 40 grit sanding scratches verses 600 grit....much easier to remove 600 grit scratches)

This is so true, I used 320 once...... it took forever to get those scratches out... anymore, unless it’s a very high value blade, I gently use a wire brush and WD40 to remove any patches of rust and then polish away with mother’s Mag. I used to sand on one razor for about 8-12 hours at a time. The solution, don’t buy such crappy rusted up razors, this has really worked for me lol. Granted, you can find some amazing deals on high end brands, but many times the time and money invested into restoring a large chunk of rusted metal is not worth your investment YMMV(especially for family heirlooms).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top Bottom