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Guillermo Hoope 14

Gents,

I saw this particular blade on eBay, and it was getting no love. I believe it was NOS based off of the no spine wear...just poorly stored for the last 90+ years.

At any rate, these were the sellers pictures...
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Now I don’t have any dremel tool, but I do have access to wet/dry sandpaper. I thought that it would look nicer if I cleaned it up a bit, and have better corrosion resistance if I smoother out these blemishes. I did a progression of 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000, and 7000 grits followed by some hand polishing with Maass. I think it turned out alright!

I will also say that this was the easiest bevel set that I have ever done...the grind is wickedly thin/full hollow, and the spine edge geometry was absolute perfection!

I am moving this one to the front of the line, and will shave test it next!

Vr

Matt
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Now I don’t have any dremel tool, but I do have access to wet/dry sandpaper. I thought that it would look nicer if I cleaned it up a bit, and have better corrosion resistance if I smoother out these blemishes. I did a progression of 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000, and 7000 grits followed by some hand polishing with Maass. I think it turned out alright!

I will also say that this was the easiest bevel set that I have ever done...the grind is wickedly thin/full hollow, and the spine edge geometry was absolute perfection!

I am moving this one to the front of the line, and will shave test it next!

Vr

Matt
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That turned out really nice. Good you were able to save the original collars and scales. Progressive sanding is the only way to go. It is tedious, but it works best the full hollows. Love those 14s. Collect them as well. All great shavers.
 
I always notice your finishing hone when you post, it's lovely. What type of stone is it?

Thanks! It’s a “translucent” Ancient Ocean Jasper from Wild Whetstones.

It is an amazing stone, and it works as the proprietor claims on his site, and in his YouTube videos. The “translucent” doesn’t have translucent properties, but I have found it to be my best finisher...the resultant edges are incredibly sharp but not at all harsh, and it leaves a mirror finish on the edge near the bevel.

I actually was so impressed with the first one, I purchased a second one to see if it produced the same edges...and they both produce identical edges.

Tough to lap, but once it’s right...the hone is amazing.

Vr

Matt
 
That turned out really nice. Good you were able to save the original collars and scales. Progressive sanding is the only way to go. It is tedious, but it works best the full hollows. Love those 14s. Collect them as well. All great shavers.

Thanks! I actually didn’t take the blade out of the scales...I am not that advanced yet!

I love the 14s as well...Spanish or German...I am finding that they are all amazing shavers!

I am looking forward to the shave test!

Vr

Matt
 
Thanks! It’s a “translucent” Ancient Ocean Jasper from Wild Whetstones.

It is an amazing stone, and it works as the proprietor claims on his site, and in his YouTube videos. The “translucent” doesn’t have translucent properties, but I have found it to be my best finisher...the resultant edges are incredibly sharp but not at all harsh, and it leaves a mirror finish on the edge near the bevel.

I actually was so impressed with the first one, I purchased a second one to see if it produced the same edges...and they both produce identical edges.

Tough to lap, but once it’s right...the hone is amazing.

Vr

Matt
Is it similar to a trans ark where the edge feels similar to the stone used before or does it provide its own fingerprint?
 
Beautiful razor! That stone is not small!

Thanks, and you Sir are correct...this stone is a behemoth! It was the second jasper I purchased from the vendor.

I use it for honing razors that have an edge over 3 inches, and its little brother is the more standard 8x3x1.

They are both incredible finishers that have been giving me sharp and smooth edges.

Vr

Matt
 
Is it similar to a trans ark where the edge feels similar to the stone used before or does it provide its own fingerprint?

It provides an edge that is its own finger print...this jasper will practically remove the scratch pattern under a 10x loupe, and make the bevel near the edge a mirror to the naked eye.

To me it creates an edge that is about as sharp as I have ever created, but also about the smoothest as well! Eventually I will get an Escher just to have and compare...but right now I am in no rush!

Vr

Matt
 
It provides an edge that is its own finger print...this jasper will practically remove the scratch pattern under a 10x loupe, and make the bevel near the edge a mirror to the naked eye.

To me it creates an edge that is about as sharp as I have ever created, but also about the smoothest as well! Eventually I will get an Escher just to have and compare...but right now I am in no rush!

Vr

Matt
I just bought one, worst case scenario I sell it and lose a few bucks.
 
Congrats! In my experience, you will need to lap both sides to improve the flatness and finish. It’s a terrible nightmare...worse than Arkansas Blacks and Translucents! I used a SiC powder progression. A coarse DMT or a Nano Plate will be a complete waste of time.

The other two things I really found to be effective is instead of using a coarse DMT to build a slurry in the sharpening side is to:

1. Use the Coarse DMT to score/open up the sharpening side gently for a few seconds.

2. Use the rub stone included to build your slurry on your coarse DMT, and then spray that slurry onto the sharpening side.

On the finishing side, I prep the surface with my Tomo Nagura, and then build slurry on DMT and again spray it on the finishing surface. Once I finish with that step, I do 7-10 laps on the finishing side under a light stream of running water.

I hope that you like yours as much as I like mine!

Vr

Matt
 
Congrats! In my experience, you will need to lap both sides to improve the flatness and finish. It’s a terrible nightmare...worse than Arkansas Blacks and Translucents! I used a SiC powder progression. A coarse DMT or a Nano Plate will be a complete waste of time.

The other two things I really found to be effective is instead of using a coarse DMT to build a slurry in the sharpening side is to:

1. Use the Coarse DMT to score/open up the sharpening side gently for a few seconds.

2. Use the rub stone included to build your slurry on your coarse DMT, and then spray that slurry onto the sharpening side.

On the finishing side, I prep the surface with my Tomo Nagura, and then build slurry on DMT and again spray it on the finishing surface. Once I finish with that step, I do 7-10 laps on the finishing side under a light stream of running water.

I hope that you like yours as much as I like mine!

Vr

Matt
I hope mine comes nearly flat then!
 
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