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Got a 15/16 Herder Coming

I have a 13/16 Herder wedge, it’s an absolutely wonderful blade. Truthfully you won’t have any difficulty under the nose, I don’t find larger blades any more difficult than smaller ones.
 
I have a 13/16 Herder wedge, it’s an absolutely wonderful blade. Truthfully you won’t have any difficulty under the nose, I don’t find larger blades any more difficult than smaller ones.
May I call you "Herder Bro"? That's good to know. It's supposed to be here Tuesday and I hope you are correct. BTW, I've heard a little and read a little more about Herder razors. They are supposed to be good metal.
 
The steel is beautiful and every bit as good as my Puma and Dorko. I picked mine up NOS, it was a treat to be the first person to ever touch it to a stone and shave with it.
 
The steel is beautiful and every bit as good as my Puma and Dorko. I picked mine up NOS, it was a treat to be the first person to ever touch it to a stone and shave with it.
These are new old stock. J.R. will probably hone as I didn’t tell him not to.

I think I’ll shave without stropping.
 
If it's the one with a spade on scales ,it is a bad a#$ razor. I've seen two venders on eBay selling them. So I have a half mustache. or pencil maybe is what some would call it. I shave the top half off. So from nose down and quick stop. Small blades are easier but you can do it with a big one too. Cuts help you learn.good luck.
 
Used this razor this morning. I was surprised this width was not a problem. It will interesting to continue to use and dial in.
 

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Used this razor this morning. I was surprised this width was not a problem. It will interesting to continue to use and dial in.
I've always maintained that unless you have a 5/8" space between your nose and mustache area, width should not have much of a usability issue.
 
So, I have had a little problem getting the right edge. Maybe you can help. I did the progression of films and some laps on the Thuringian followed by linen and horse hide, but its not quite there. This is my first experience with stainless steel.

I did an initial 50 laps on 30 micron film both sides. It felt what I thought was the burr and proceeded on. A buddy said he does 100 laps on a new blade.

Maybe carbon and a wide blade requires a different approach in honing and using.
 
In my experience SS isn't any more difficult to hone than carbon steel. I do have to spend a bit of extra time on my Herder but no more than with the best Swedish steels. It definitely takes more work than Sheffield steel for sure.

Don't use lap counts as a guide, if using the burr method you know where you need to be. As for the next steps, it's a matter of feel or use a loupe to ensure your previous scratches are removed before moving on.

Keep at it and you will get it where you want it to be.
 
In my experience SS isn't any more difficult to hone than carbon steel. I do have to spend a bit of extra time on my Herder but no more than with the best Swedish steels. It definitely takes more work than Sheffield steel for sure.

Don't use lap counts as a guide, if using the burr method you know where you need to be. As for the next steps, it's a matter of feel or use a loupe to ensure your previous scratches are removed before moving on.

Keep at it and you will get it where you want it to be.
Thank you. I've been discussing with @steveclarkus today via cellular and I'm lapping as we speak.
 
I agree with @Rugger007 in that lap count is not a sufficient guide. The burr method won’t lie to you, but you gotta make sure you raise the burr from heel to toe and everywhere in between before moving it over. Then, use however many laps the first side took - that should thoroughly move the entire burr over, while also keeping your bevels even. The you can hone it off.

Insofar as stainless vs carbon, yes, stainless steels are -often- (read: not always) more abrasion resistant than simpler steels. Chromium is the primary additive that makes a steel “stainless”, and chromium can also improve abrasion resistance. Too bad it won’t really help the razor retain the edge longer, as that would be nice.
 
I agree with @Rugger007 in that lap count is not a sufficient guide. The burr method won’t lie to you, but you gotta make sure you raise the burr from heel to toe and everywhere in between before moving it over. Then, use however many laps the first side took - that should thoroughly move the entire burr over, while also keeping your bevels even. The you can hone it off.

Insofar as stainless vs carbon, yes, stainless steels are -often- (read: not always) more abrasion resistant than simpler steels. Chromium is the primary additive that makes a steel “stainless”, and chromium can also improve abrasion resistance. Too bad it won’t really help the razor retain the edge longer, as that would be nice.


Okay and thank you. SS is different. It's my first challenge after 7 successful hones. but I just see it as a challenge. Not bothered.
 
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