Him say what me say but gooder.Steel for razors only has a couple of requirements:
1: It needs to be fine enough in grain structure to take a proper shaving edge. This is really not complicated, and even a dirty, simple, mid carbon steel can achieve this. This factor is more about how it is heat treated than which steel alloy is chosen. Any competent razor maker would have done a more than adequate job.
2: It needs to be strong enough to maintain that fine edge through shaving. Again, not particularly difficult. The only real requirements for the steel alloy in this regard are that it have sufficient carbon, and be clean enough from detrimental inclusions. After those two incredibly basic requirements are met, the heat treat is the next super critical factor, and again, any competent manufacturer would have done more than adequately.
The differences people express in "English Steel" vs. "German Steel" are more to do with honing and geometry than they are with the shave. Different steels will have different characteristics in how hard or easy the razor is to hone, and how well it maintains its edge to last a long time between honings. Often, these two traits are traded off, one for the other. Meaning easy honing razors tend to need honing more often, and visa versa. A truly great razor would take its edge very readily, but stubbornly hold it through a lot of use. Such a unicorn is rare, but they can exist.
Most of the differences people experience are in geometry. Due to the way local craftsmen compete with and collaborate with one another simultaneously, you will find a lot of similarity in both the tooling and how it is employed among razors ground in Sheffield during one time period, but there will be some differences when those razors are compared to razors ground in Solingen a generation before or after.
Those differences lead to geometry differences in the razor - slight variations in thickness, degree of hollow, thickness of spine, exact width of blade, and the relationship of each of these geometries to one another, all of which can have subtle impacts on how the razor shaves.
Good French steel? Any guide to highlights of the razor spectrum?
- Thread starter str8six
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Him say what me say but gooder.
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- #22
Thanks for the insight, it's really helping me tone down this acquisition disorder. Props especially to @Dzaw for a very comprehensive answer! Sounds like once I dial in my preferred grind and blade width it's mostly just aesthetics. Especially since I actually like honing so needing it more frequently or extra laps are fine by me.
That all said, the Le Grelot arrived just in time for my coticule to show up and I very much liked the shave. But now I know I'd probably have had a very similar experience had I honed most any 6/8 full hollow with it.
That all said, the Le Grelot arrived just in time for my coticule to show up and I very much liked the shave. But now I know I'd probably have had a very similar experience had I honed most any 6/8 full hollow with it.
Not really. Some Grelots although full hollow are of a heavier pattern than a typical full hollow. I mean it has the same shape complete with a belly in the grind but the entire blade is thicker. Its why Grelot's are highly regarded I believe.
To think that a particular brand is better or more consistent is the wrong way of thinking. I believe more people would have an opinion of a particular manufacturer from a particular time frame. For example Filarmonica's from the 30's are coveted and fantastic shavers.
Started with the straight razors about 8 months ago and like you I was looking for something that suited me best. Presently I have 14 of them, some vintage, some modern, some expensive, some cheap, from 4/8 to 7/8th's. I try to use them all in rotation order so that they all get the same attention, but I already have some firm favourites that I always look forward to using.
Two of them never fail to give me a comfortable relaxed shave, and they are the ones you least expect it from.
GOLD DOLLAR's! They are cheap and disappointing straight out of the box with clear defects in the grinds, and I spent a long time grinding the shoulders of one and honing them to get something that looks like the correct blade geometry, which didn't do anything to improve their looks. They don't centre correctly because the blades age clearly not perfectly straight, they are not pretty, but boy do they shave!
Proves the point that quality steel is not expensive, you can expect most razors to have that, even cheap ones.
Good workmanship is expensive.
Two of them never fail to give me a comfortable relaxed shave, and they are the ones you least expect it from.
GOLD DOLLAR's! They are cheap and disappointing straight out of the box with clear defects in the grinds, and I spent a long time grinding the shoulders of one and honing them to get something that looks like the correct blade geometry, which didn't do anything to improve their looks. They don't centre correctly because the blades age clearly not perfectly straight, they are not pretty, but boy do they shave!
Proves the point that quality steel is not expensive, you can expect most razors to have that, even cheap ones.
Good workmanship is expensive.
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- #25
A few months in and I have several razors on the go and am enjoying the variety. I'm still not sure what I like, it'll probably be a few years yet before I understand. Right now, I'm finding my wedge is not my favourite, but that makes sense given that I'm still learning and it's less forgiving of bad technique and provides less feedback. It's a Japanese wedge though (did some research, apparently Shiozawa Masaaki?), if I never really warm up to it, do you think there's any point in buying a W&B or will it almost certainly provide a fairly similar shaving experience and the differences will mainly be in honing and edge retention?
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