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Good DE results; but HELP! Curious issues:

...Hope this is the correct place.

The following is for dry skin and very tough beard hairs.

Got an EJ89 and went from the Derby blades to Feather yellow 10-pack. While pre-oil isn't 100% necessary after shower warming and washing with good soaps I apply warmed Luana Brand non-smelling AFFORDABLE processed coconut oil; from the grocer in a tub. I move some to a small container; redone once a week. I'm also reapplying some between passes and then using it (especially) after a cold water finishing splash as a very superior balm and that does not sting. It also reduces razor burn; that I only got one time being overly aggressive (BBS) with Polsilver Iriduim. I've use Derby the Pol and Feather.

To get baby smooth (99% perfect) I require more than 3 passes and touch-ups of about 5 all-told passes. I can usually avoid any nicks with the Feather; so does this indicate I have found my blade and should stop hunting? I'm afraid I may have to move to a different razor to get fewer passes; but I am also at my tolerance for irritation and carefulness(that's fine). Perhaps an HD razor would be better for me; I don't know. Then there's open combs next I think. Probably not a slant.

I would be concerned that even the Merkur HD razor and while slightly more aggressive might require less than a Feather and I'd lose my needed sharpness(raising irritation due to more friction). I am softening my beard as much as possible; with warm prep.

Cold shaving did not work for me. My neck got worse. BTW perhaps cold shaving is best warm (soften) and then cold (cutting)shaving I don't know. Yet I'm working with warm now and keeping most alternatives (control) at bay.

Like many I figured my face was extra sensitive. What is was I think is I'm (49) older and do not have the oily skin I once had. Grey beards hair are tougher. I'm actually surprised I have very dry skin and this is a dry time of year. I had associated this with allergies; but tough beards require more friction and so we think it's sensitivity. The bumps were caused by ingrown hairs not acne and less than optimal direction passes cushion glide (was skips and drags) and no re-lathering of a superior shave soap. I do not have to use unscented products; but that's a good way to go for some. I'm all over triple-milled soaps tallow and those with moisturizing qualities. Where some of those might cause issues for some young oily skin guys. I now realize the importance of regular face care and that it is not girly to need moisture (water retained). My skin was far more cracked and would get flaky at times than I thought. That added to irritation. I'm enjoying 24/7 moist hydrated skin (water retention by never being completely stripped and using coconut oil for emulsifying) and the optimized shave soap is part of this regimen. Mainly it's the near miracle (simple and uncomplicated) processed coconut oil; even if only used as your aftershave balm.

I also avoid pore clogging (acne causing) ingredients in face/body soaps. No Parabens (just to play it safe) and even no SLS soaps or shampoos(needing a bit more cleaning than face/body). The fewer the ingredients the better! Your face soaps may need to be different also; depending on what else you choose. I'm currently testing (inexpensive $1.20) "Clearly Natural" unscented 25% retained glycerin soap bar on face and body. "Bed Head" non-SLS for shampoo.

I went for the best shave soaps and starting with the affordable VDH Deluxe (not "Select" or "Glycerin" versions) for $1.58 at the Mart. I learned to be patience for a minute; whipping-up and brush loading a thick lather. including simple fast bump reducing face lathering. Starting; with less water (shake the warmed Silvertip well). I have a big Silvertip brush and while a bit floppy it still works well with better hard shave soaps(and creams). Brush exfoliation is very important and you should work at it; but gently. You can avoid needing a face scrub; but go ahead use a ***MILD*** scrub (Equate brand Oil of Olay knock-off) if you are still getting bumps. A MILD scrub is also good for your shave days-off if you do not shave everyday.

My super shave soaps are MWF, Speick stick, and Cella! Any one will do great. Speick stick(travel) is hitting ALL the bases and even the scent. MWF being tops and all one needs; with excellent Lanolin (no sensitivity for me) scent and not as hard to lather as some think and long lasting. These make your brush smell great. Then Cella an Italian style "croap" is very fast to lather and the most moisturizing. But I still need coconut oil. Cella has its mild Almond/cherry-ish scent; that many like. Speick is the best scent (by my family poll) though. MWF has a great (brush) soap scent too. All having excellent cushion and glide; and given my use of coconut oil they all are superior. I do not apply an over abundance of coconut oil between passes. I don't want to mess-up the fine shave soaps performance. But it's better to use some (lesser amount just enough) of coconut oil between passes also. I do apply an abundance as an aftershave and it lasts longer than any (stinging) lotion; that I have tried. I just pat with a towel if too shiny. I have a problem with being very dry faced an hour or so later. So my face really sucks-up the coconut oil and this keeps me from drying out altogether; during the day.

That's my story; but my issue (as many) is my neck. I tried doing my neck separately with an electric; but it was worse irritation. I am healing from the old way of (cartridge Mach 3 sensitive) shaving and comparatively much better; with less irritation. I am shaving every day and getting better and avoiding most irritation. Best I can do on my neck now is going extremely easy(er) and in all directions with the hairs like that there and with the feather; compared to mowing-down (buffing required) my tough chin area(without irritation!).

Frankly being hairy (the beast) I am using a Braun electric foil on my ears only (yes ear stubble!); but not every day. Also I've learned to use the clipper only (not foil or blade to avoid later bumps) on the back of my neck hairs (very very light touch else red scratches) and on a small amount of long shoulder and upper arm hairs (a couple); that otherwise cause itchiness (harboring infection) and are unsightly. The lower arms and chest are naturally (Sean Connery like) hairy. This can be done once a week and leave minor acceptable hair stubble; but without ingrown bumps and that's the point. No need for baby smooth on the fine hairs; that are very few(wild hairs).

...and here I thought my beard hair was wimpy but it's become the opposite.

Please help with any experienced advice; that can improve on my neck irritation (I carefully prep there) and I'd like to reduce the time and number of passes required.

It's like rough sandpaper under my jaw (no irritation) even after two good buffing passes with a feather. So I do not feel like I can stop the final against the grain pass(es). Still then there's some stubble. Even at the best (real BSS) I can still find stubble under the jaw line and chin. Plus some "shadow"; where the "Foo man chew" would be. Still this a far far better than I was getting with an expensive cartridge; even when new. I went back and tried the cartridge; with everything I've learned and have changed and the cartridge was horrible! I gave it an overly fair try too and I expected it to be all the prep. It was not. ...Way too much friction; with a cart.

It took far less time to get used to the minor (feel) differences of the DE razor than I had assumed. I'm shaving everyday to increase smooth non-irritated results. you get used to avoiding irritation (lighter LOW friction strokes) and with the better prep. Think smooth and don't go extremely fast (nor to slow), and don't go into un-relathered areas. Do a fast re-lather between passes/directions and touch-ups. It takes one second to swipe lather; before a touch up spot.

I'm better shaved (closer) the next day (stubble); than I was with cartridges even right after and those had major irritation! Friction is the killer. This is why I'm trying to figure out how to get fewer passes; but not add irritation. To close was that time I got my first all over (pol-silver) even coverage burn (from pressure buffing a less sharp blade untold; until done and aftershave). That was the fine line(to close); not to cross. My face is adapting. I'm about 98% there.

I could not be more pleased and still in shock; that I can't wait to shave! LOL. I just need the red spots on the neck gone.
 
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Welcome to B&B!

Start by getting a blade sample kit. and go through it by a process of elimination! you'll know for yourself when you find the blade that suits you the most!
since you are new to DE shaving, i would suggest you to forget about a baby smooth shave and instead concentrate on your technique. once your technique improves, you'll get baby smooth shaves by default!
dont overwork a certain region, This will definitely cause irritation and other issues(3 passes +1 touch pass is acceptable. anything more than that is overworking the skin)
use zero pressure and let the blade do its work! watch some videos by mantic59 or geofatboy.

enjoy! keep us posted of the results and improvements1
 
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Welcome to B&B!

Start by getting a blade sample kit. and go through it by a process of elimination! you'll know for yourself when you find the blade that suits you the most!
since you are new to DE shaving, i would suggest you to forget about a baby smooth shave and instead concentrate on your technique. once your technique improves, you'll get baby smooth shaves by default!
dont overwork a certain region, This will definitely cause irritation and other issues(3 passes +1 touch pass is acceptable. anything more than that is overworking the skin)
use zero pressure and let the blade do its work! watch someone videos by mantic59 or geofatboy.

enjoy! keep us posted of the results and improvements1
+1 This is a very good suggestion. Your EJ DE89 is a very fine razor. I have one and I love it. The Merkur HD (34C) is also an outstanding razor. I use Feather's in all my razors but have decided to try a few others. I would recommend Astra and Personna Med or the new Personna which is supposed to be 25% sharper. I like Derby as well although some folks do not. I tried Astra last night and received a BBS shave. They may not be quite as sharp as the Feather but I could not tell the difference in shave quality. Go to theshavedenshop.com and click on blades, 36 blade sampler. It contains 3 blades from 12 different brands. It may or may not contain all of the brands you might want to try. I've never found a sample pack that contained all the brands that I wanted and I don't want a bunch of 5 or 10 blade packs to try.

I feel your pain regarding the coarseness of gray whiskers. I'm 65 and they only get worse as you age. That's why I like the sharpness of Feather's and now Astra's.
 
Wow, that's a long and complicated post, but I think you are saying that you do 5 passes with a feather in an EJ DE89 including an ATG pass, and you are experiencing irritation and other problems on your neck. Two things occur to me--first, that's way too many passes, and second, it sounds like your prep or your lather isn't working because the razor skips and drags and doesn't get all the stubble off your neck. Beyond that, I'm at a loss to advise you. I use feathers in my DE89, but I don't experience anything like you are describing.

You must have the beard from hell.
 
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Thanks for all the responses so far and those next.

I was wondering if I still need to try other blades. Thanks for the link; it's the best set I have seen. Given I've heard no one say anything is sharper than a feather, then isn't to many passes indication of needing a sharper blade?

I am doing 3 buffing passes starting only with the grain and ending against; but then doing a bunch (to much?) of touch-up, and stopping before it is perfect; so as not to irritate. Leaving that under jaw scruff (only) and some mild neck redness. I think this is due to multi directions on my neck hairs. It *SEEMS* like a starting directing on my neck doesn't matter; due to wild directions (below the apple). It's frustrating; because the very lower neck is not thick beard at all; but I can't skip it else it gets irritated from hair tickling. However, the middle neck where reddness/bumps occur (less now but not right) is getting toward my thick jaw stubble density. I suppose the only thing I can do is go EXTREAMLY low push over those (neck) areas about four times/directions until it's cut. Low pressure beats less passes right?

I don't think another razor will make a Feather sharper somehow will it? I know there's gap and bar differences. Only thing I can guess is a open comb MIGHT be closer and yet with less friction. ...and as I said if a certain razor requires me to go to a less sharp blade, then that's not good(I think).

I have watched those vids.

I know face topology, prep, beard thickness and more all make us different.

I tried going back to the Derby and while is was fine for the first use I very intently prefer the Feather. It's funny. I was almost scared of the Feather, LOL. I'm CHEAP, and I'm aware the Feather is slightly more costly. I wouldn't pick it if a less expensive blade worked better. Yet I don't care much about the difference between 8 cents and 25 cents.

As a preliminary judgment I can get at least 3 of these shaves from a Feather. I do think it's slightly sharper when new, but maybe it's perception.

I'm going with the not wiping, changing, oiling, or flipping the blades at this point. I just rinse and pat dry. I may just replace with new at 25 cents each. I'm debating a 200 pack of Feathers. The thing holding me back is the thought I may like another razor like a super speed, and it may be better with a different blade.

Then again it may be to early to introduce another razor at this point for me. Is my EJ that good(poll); from how I have describe my experience/beard/match?

I do think my technique is now really very good, but there's always room to improve.
 
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I'm with the guy above - 5 passes is way too many. No wonder you're getting problems. The DE89 is a mild razor but it's a perfect match for Feathers for that exact reason. I went through a phase of doing two WTG passes to try and cure the ingrowns on my neck. No XTG, no ATG. It wasn't BBS, but it was comfortable, and more than good enough to be presentable.

Ingrown hairs are caused by hairs cut below the level of the skin, and getting trapped as they try to grow out.

I know with my skin, and I've read others say the same, that the hair recedes slightly after shaving as the skin dries and tightens. What my fingers feel as sandpapery stubble under the lather after 2 passes, is BBS half an hour later once I'm finished. It's when I try go get a BBS during the shave that I end up with real problems.

I'd suggest going back to basics. Start with one WTG pass, and leave it at that. If you absolutely can't bear to leave it there, do another WTG pass. Pay extra atention to to the pattern of your beard on your neck, North-South isn't WTG for many people. I have to attack my neck from several different directions to catch all the different ways my beard grows.

Do that for a week and see how the ingrowns change. If they get better, then add a XTG pass. Give it another week, and add an ATG pass if they're still improving.

I have realised there is no combination of razor and blade that I own, that I can shave my neck ATG and get away without ingrown hairs. I have had a barbershop shave with a straight, and the next day I was covered in them. I stick with WTG on my neck, and while it's never BBS, it's always comfortable and presentable - and a lot less hassle.
 
I use the same EJ89/Feather set up. I do 1wtg pass. Followed by an xtg on the face and a second wtg on just my neck. Then I finish with an atg pass on both neck and face. After my last/3rd pass I do a touch up on my neck by not rinsing and just wetting my finger tips with water and using the residual soap left on my neck. This is a very light pass and only one pass on the little stubble I have left. I know I am going to hear it about not relathering but this technique works for me and the water provides enough slickness for that touch up pass. I dont do this all the time, only on special occasions and only if my neck isnt irritated at all. Otherwise I just settle for a that sandpaperness and no irritation. I cant see sandpaperness only feel it, but I can definitley see irritaion and so can everyone else.
 
I've never gotten a perfect 100% baby smooth shave with any proper shaving method I've ever used or with any modern cartridge blade, or any traditional DE or straight blade.

I have gotten that ultra close shave baby smooth shave when I do it wrong and shave against the grain with multiple passes, but I end up with all kinds of really bad problems when I've done that.

For me I'm better off going with the grain, making fewer passes, and lathering up only once. But that's just me. Personally I like the way my shave looks and feel when I do it this way. My results are so much better when doing that.
 
After my last/3rd pass I do a touch up on my neck by not rinsing and just wetting my finger tips with water and using the residual soap left on my neck. This is a very light pass and only one pass on the little stubble I have left. I know I am going to hear it about not relathering but this technique works for me and the water provides enough slickness for that touch up pass.

Actually, a long time ago, Schick recommended that technique for final touch-ups with their injector razors. I do it myself--after all, the lather just serves to keep water on your face, and what could hydrate better than water?
 
Using water and/or left over shave lather is interesting and I have done that a bit. Whatever works; but I do have the brush loaded up and right there. I lean toward discipline and that has got me this far (which is almost shave perfect if you're reading me correctly).

I'm a teaching type so stay with me while I learning, from the wiser. I'm also just trying to impart what works for me. It might work for some others.

I'm also extremely scientific and while some of this is by feel, I'm attempting to isolate variables, get the facts, and the whys. This is part of the enjoyment for me. But that's me.

If I had a great point it might be; that I think many guys don't keep going until they get great results. I almost do not believe how good the results I am getting, already. I'm admitting I may well be past BSS; by regular definition. I have found that line at least once for me, all my differences, and similarities.

I agree; that some very minor stubble is far preferable to noticeable red areas.

Plus the truth is BBS does not last long for me. Maybe half the day at best. However visually the stubble is OK at 24 hours. Just not for rubbing. Perhaps because most of it is Grey. BTW: Once I cover up a little Grey, that's left in the side burns, then it's all light brown left over(hair). That's one reason I don't sport a beard as much lately. I did have a full dense beard in High School, and lighter hair. My beard was darker, than hair on top of my head. Yet I have a fair complexion. Go figure? These new (ole) and improved shaving results are great! Perhaps I'm getting better results than most and now I have a bunch of options. Plus my face is still healing and the neck redness is getting less. With that gone, then I'm gold.

I will still try to figure out which way my muti-direction, mid, to lower neck hairs, are going; so that I might guess their grain direction again.

I'd have no problem going easy and leaving a little stubble on my problem neck area; but leaving stubble causes redness from them too! I'm trying to tame those and not be perfect there. Plus it seems it doesn't matter how much more I do, then I can't get 100% of the stubble off my chin, and under my jaw. However it's close enough. Very close. Those are some wires there. No irritation there though; even with too much effort used and given truly good technique.

What is technique, to me? Concentration, smooth, low friction (new blade), good angle, isolating flatter areas, and working with rounder spots, with things like sticking my tongue toward my chin, and holding my neck different ways. How can I improve?

I think my neck area bump and redness (beside healing time) is those darn hairs grow sideways; along the surface of my neck.

Maybe a stiffer brush and where I assumed my Silvertip would be less friction and irritation. There's a little "scritch" though and I work the neck area very well; because of this issue.

Side note: Once a face (pre) scrub (Every man jack, Mint), that I tried, was to biting. Another(Equate) didn't irritate; so they are not all the same. But scrub would be for non shaving days; to stop ingrown hairs. I haven’t tried every other day (with DE) yet; because I'm enjoying shaving everyday (but can't more than everyday), and to keep more the same. It's great, that I can (now) shave everyday; as this is a new advantage.

I'm going for shaving nirvana. LOL. ...Almost there!
 
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Hello Nick. Yeah, I just wanna say that if you want a blade almost as sharp as Feather but a lot smoother, you might want to check out the Personna Med Preps or Labs.... I use the Med Preps much of the time and they last a long time for me.... (top notch blade)

I too have a beard that dulls most any blade rapidly, and I try for a BBS on practically every shave..... like yours mine has a lot of gray in it too....

I think for your prep, the hot water is the main thing.... and/or a good hair conditioner as a pre shave can work wonders too...

BTW It's great to have you here in the forum!!

John H.
 
So many good things to try. Thank you. Looking at this one:

"I know with my skin, and I've read others say the same, that the hair recedes slightly after shaving as the skin dries and tightens. What my fingers feel as sandpapery stubble under the lather after 2 passes, is BBS half an hour later once I'm finished. It's when I try go get a BBS during the shave that I end up with real problems."

I think I'm not letting my face get dried out during the post shave,and before a few hours go by and my stubble comes back. I am listening to the idea; that micro stubble during a warmer shave may be BSS, and close enough; right after.

Since I do the cold rinse as much as I can possible stand (thoroughly) I'm sure it's cooling down, and retracting. Even then, stubble (light sandpaper) can be found. But this is mainly under the chin, and jaw.

But wait. I guess cooling and drying are two different things. I've heard cooling makes your stubble stand up. Then we have drying (hair) possibly reseeding.

I'm looking to try Personna's and Astras. I'm guessing they will not be sharp enough for me; but am I looking at it wrong? Wouldn’t they require me to bear down to get the same stubble gone? Now that I think of it there's a lot more at play; with blade design/making. Thinness, angle, lead in, durability, coatings etc.
 
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5 passes is a lot for any neck to handle, especially on a daily basis. If I did that my face would look like a giant tomato after a couple of weeks!
Forget the BBS quest & go for comfort with a simple WTG/XTG/ATG shave, going ATG on the neck on last 2 passes. No touch-ups. Concentrate on technique & take your time.
If you can't get a really nice shave with 3 passes then something is up!
 
If I really buff all 3 passes (and/or make the XTG both ways for 4 careful passes) Buffing in slightly difference angles then I still require touch ups; with a new Feather. That makes a damn fine shave, and almost BBS. However, not under my Adams Apple. On my neck there I currently use extremely baby-touch smooth strokes (currently a slight improvement on the redness), and require about four directions to clear the less dense (spaced) stubble (flat against the skin omnidirectional hairs). It's like my chin is tough, and does not get irritation(at this point); but my neck skin is very touchy and gets red easy. It's crazy.

I can get about two weepers (disappear fast) if I get crazy; but I can do it with zero nicks or weepers. It requires concentration and my technique over my non-flat areas is improving fast.

How can I improve?

How I hold and tighten(or not) my neck? I'm doing the neck push forward things, and also the other way making a double like chin for that jaw stubble. But the darn under jaw/chin area practically grows back out as a shave it off. LOL.

I think I may need some improvement holding the skin up; under where I'm shaving.

I'm also varying sink, tub, and shower shaving. Perhaps, I should stick to the shower; where I have a mirror and free hand without hunching forward.

BTW, while face lathering the Speick is simple. For the shower (or anywhere) I've made a cheap scuttle!

The Scuttle rebuttal:

Please see my thread post for this Scuttle: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...afe-hot-lather-DIY-idea?p=5717839#post5717839

...but only when your are done here.
 
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I will get irritation after 3 passes on the neck, let alone 5. Recommend two passes (WTG/ATG) and touchups, or three max. Also consider trying a different blade if you're still irritated after a 3 pass.
 
Good idea. Thank you. I'd considered skipping the XTG; but was thinking, going ATG without them, may increase irritation. However, if it works(for me), then it's simplified, and faster.

Has anyone ever liked a Feather with no irritation, and then preferred another blade over it? ...Other than cost.

I'm reading all suggestions! I'm also acknowledging; that I heard WTG, only:

"Do that for a week and see how the ingrowns change. If they get better, then add a XTG pass. Give it another week, and add an ATG pass if they're still improving."

...and considering how the direction of growth may be affected; by WTG constancy. Thank you.

Since I seem to have the burn irritation and weeper irritation at bay; then I should target ingrown hair irritation to stop bumps. It may also be minor imperfections of my neck(and acclimation), like micro scars or a micro Keratosis getting sliced. I am finding the odd ingrown hair there. So it's that; mainly. The thing about scrubbing(too much) is that can cause red splotches on me too. I will use my better face scrub at pre-shave; scrubbing the mildly red-bump/splotchy areas lightly; but more completely in all directions. If I do that without getting over aggressive it doesn't add hardly any reddness. THEN I will also (the combined change) exfoliate (work out ingrown) the hairs on the neck better with the brush and face lathering. Maybe the brush alone wasn't preparing my neck to what it needs(and it still needs to heal slightly). I do heal fast. Like in a day. Maybe 3 (not shaving) for all signs of redness to disappear. I will definite need to face scrub; on days not shaving. Just not one of those cutting face scrubs. The milder face scrub I have, also contains coconut oil.

I'm a huge fan of the no scent inexpensive coconut oil, and as a balm after the shave. It's healing, non-clogging, water retaining, somewhat disinfecting (less redness), and acne bacteria preventing. It also goes more places; than a regular lotion can. Like eyebrow, hairlines, and side burn hairs. It makes hair appear darker, and thicker, and is healthy for the roots. But I do not put it all over my head hair. I like that to look cleaner and lighter.
 
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Welcome to B&B, Nick.

The only things that I can suggest that haven't been suggested, is to skip the use of an exfoliating scrub on your face. These things will basically just scrub plastic bits into your face. What I do is that I lather shampoo on my beard with my brush, then rinse that off and put conditioner on my beard while I make my lather.

Do you go in all sorts of directions trying to go WTG everywhere? When I did this for my neck, I would end up making things worse even though I was going WTG. A fellow member advised me to try sticking with a N-S pass, and I altered that a bit to suit my growth. I do normal N-S pass first, but the bottom inch of my neck is done S-N because it growth in the opposite direction. This has eliminated almost all forms of irritation, and only see signs of it when I push it for a 4 pass BBS. I rinse with cool water and finish off with lavender Thayers with aloe.
 
Yes skip the biting scrub; but actually I had better results today doing a milder and very thorough scrub and then again, with my soft Silver-tip brush. I didn't effect much redness and not the variety of redness that is the likely problem. My working theory is it's ingrown neck hairs and that's all healing; but in danger of having more. Since I'm shaving everyday I am very gently needing to dislodge the troublesome neck stubble so they will not be ingrown. They grow all directions and flat. I've freed 3 ingrown hairs this week after the closest of shaving in that area. I'm trying to low friction face scrub, and brush in such a manner that might free up more ingrown hairs. Circles, and back and forth being careful not to skip any areas. It takes a bit of patience. I would judge the overly harshness of pre scrubbing by whether your neck is Red before the lather and shaving. Again the type of face scrub really matters. Many scratch way to much. Sugar and honey actually works; but may or may not be for you. "Equate Age Resisting Classic Cleanser" is the Olay knock-off stuff we get (not for "age resisting" LOL). It used to be called scrub; but I guess it changed. It's the mildest scrub I have used, and it does not dry. It moisturizes well. It has skin calming ingredients and while I wanted to skip it, it helps!
 
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and second, it sounds like your prep or your lather isn't working

That was my thought, as well.

Try a decent cream for a few shaves and see if things get better. I used to get excellent shaves with soaps, but ran into some trouble recently and switched back to creams for a bit. Since making the switch my shaves have gone from frustrating to fantastic. I'll move back to soaps sometime, but for the time being, the creams are working well for me.

Good luck,
Jim
 
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