No reason why the Spyderco should not work. But I think you may wind up rounding the heel and toe; especially the toe as you leave the rod.
Going Straight. Help me sort out what I have and need.
- Thread starter ouchyfoot
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I know @SliceOfLife and a few others have used a Spyderco UF stone on razors with mixed results. IIRC the edges were okay/aha able but not ideal.
You can get a King 1k waterstone for about $25 so there's no reason not to get that. I wouldn't use the DMT's for anything other than flattening the other hones. When you can afford it, a 12k Naniwa is nice to have and you already have the chrome oxide paddle along with the 3k and 8k.
Spend most of your time on the 1k until you set the bevel. You can go from the 8k to chrom oxide initially but when you get that down I'd eventually add the 12k as well.
That's how I do it anyway.
Just remember, a straight razor isn't a knife. Those with the most experience sharpening knives are generally those who mangle up the most straight razors before figuring it out.
Spend most of your time on the 1k until you set the bevel. You can go from the 8k to chrom oxide initially but when you get that down I'd eventually add the 12k as well.
That's how I do it anyway.
Just remember, a straight razor isn't a knife. Those with the most experience sharpening knives are generally those who mangle up the most straight razors before figuring it out.
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Excellent choice! Wish I'd gotten into straights sooner, hope you find the experience as satisfying as I have.
It seems like you're local to me. I enjoy honing so wouldn't mind putting an edge on a razor or two for you if you'd like a reference. Or I could probably survive with fewer if you'd like to buy one I've already gotten into shape, honing is more fun than listing and shipping so they can accumulate...
It seems like you're local to me. I enjoy honing so wouldn't mind putting an edge on a razor or two for you if you'd like a reference. Or I could probably survive with fewer if you'd like to buy one I've already gotten into shape, honing is more fun than listing and shipping so they can accumulate...
The King 1K is borderline acceptable, like it’s right on the line between acceptable and a doorstop. I wouldn’t say there is NO reason not to get it, frankly there are a TON of reasons not to get it. OP would be much better served in the long run by a Naniwa.You can get a King 1k waterstone for about $25 so there's no reason not to get that. I wouldn't use the DMT's for anything other than flattening the other hones. When you can afford it, a 12k Naniwa is nice to have and you already have the chrome oxide paddle along with the 3k and 8k.
Spend most of your time on the 1k until you set the bevel. You can go from the 8k to chrom oxide initially but when you get that down I'd eventually add the 12k as well.
That's how I do it anyway.
Just remember, a straight razor isn't a knife. Those with the most experience sharpening knives are generally those who mangle up the most straight razors before figuring it out.
There's no reason not to get it if you are thinking of not getting a 1k because of price. I also disagree with the characterization of it being borderline between acceptable and a doorstop.
Some people complain that it is too soft or too slow but most people are only going to use it on a few razors and they have the time to lap it as needed and to get a bevel set. I have 10 razors (and will stay at that number) and it works fine for me.
After you get the bevel set you may not need to even use it again.
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- #27
Again...Naniwa vs Shapton.
Im getting so deep I can hardly hear anyone now. Last night I ordered pivot rods and washers on ebay and was researching small anvils and ball peen hammers on Amazon.
Im getting so deep I can hardly hear anyone now. Last night I ordered pivot rods and washers on ebay and was researching small anvils and ball peen hammers on Amazon.
Some use dmt EE up to 8k-ish. Works fine.
ive used a suehiro 1200, chosera 1k, shapton 1500 and dmt F & E and atomas to cut bevels. They all work fine, but preference and comfort of use is what drives the choice. The suehiro needs to be soaked and the feedback of the dmt/atoma feel off to me.
the spyderco UF needs to be lapped to condition the surface as its just a ceramic surface treatment not a grit/binder.
ive used a suehiro 1200, chosera 1k, shapton 1500 and dmt F & E and atomas to cut bevels. They all work fine, but preference and comfort of use is what drives the choice. The suehiro needs to be soaked and the feedback of the dmt/atoma feel off to me.
the spyderco UF needs to be lapped to condition the surface as its just a ceramic surface treatment not a grit/binder.
I've owned three if I remember. I have gotten shaveable but never good edges off of them, I'd say six to eight k Jis equivalent. based on how it's made I always assumed it should give me much better than that. And then @global_dev sent me a UF edge that was quite nice the other day so I've actually got a fourth inbound I'm going to lap it all the way up to one micron and see how it does.
With respect to DMTs...
I use DMTs for every razor I hone from as coarse as 325 to 8000.
I use exclusively finishing stones and DMTs for razors. I use other hones, but only with knives.I will very rarely use my 6000JIS with razors, but it's a step back from my 8000dmt so I don't use it often... Sometimes when using the 13k to finish so I don't have to get two hones out (6k is backside of my 13k).
That said... I don't know anyone else using the 8000 daily with razors. The 1200 has some popularity, but I am pretty lonely on EE Island.
It does work fine. I'm not sure why others dislike it or struggle with it. There is a little technique to it. That is to say, if I deliberately try, I can wreck an edge on it... But I can't fathom how someone would learn to use that technique unless their goal was to trash an edge. Any reasonable technique works fine. My leading suspicion is folks don't clean the plate often or well enough. I wipe it after every razor and wash it with soap and gentle scrubbing under running water every 3-5 razors to keep it cutting nice and clean. I suspect this is where most users fail .
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- #30
Pivot pinning Question
I have some heavy 1/2” slabs of brass. Will they suit as a good enough surface for peening pivot pins? I live in an apartment, so I’m scrounging what is already available. If you think the hardness is no problem it would be great, as it would be easy for me to drill shallow holes for the pin to drop into while peening the top side.
I have some heavy 1/2” slabs of brass. Will they suit as a good enough surface for peening pivot pins? I live in an apartment, so I’m scrounging what is already available. If you think the hardness is no problem it would be great, as it would be easy for me to drill shallow holes for the pin to drop into while peening the top side.
1/2" brass should work with 1/16" slightly opened up shallow holes for pin holding.
camo
camo
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- #32
Thanks Camo
I’ll probably need more of your advice as I get started.
I’m one of these ”ask 5000 questions and drill once” kind of guys.
I was given two King stones by a friend. And I know why he gave them to me. Excellent doorstops! You might as well get the Naniwa or Shapton 1k. They are good stones and worth the extra few bucks.
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- #34
My mistake camo. It’s 1/4” heavy copper, not brass. I was thinking of soldering two slabs together for a real heavy base. How deep should I make the holes? 1/4 inch would be real easy. Drill a few different width holes (just in case) in the top slab before I solder it down.
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- #35
I think I’ll just go with 1000k and 12000k Shapton. It’s on Amazon prime and there’s other things I need there...like a ball peen hammer.
> I think I’ll just go with 1000k and 12000k Shapton. It’s on Amazon prime and there’s other things I need there...like a ball peen hammer.
Take @SliceOfLife 's advice and use the diamond plates. One critical piece of equipment that has yet to be mentioned is a loupe. Magnification is key because then you can see the scratch patterns people are talking about and know for sure that eg. you've removed the last of the DMT marks with your 3k. A sharpie is also useful so you can see that you're hitting the bevel all the way along.
Were I you I'd probably lap the copper flat with the diamond plates and use it as a base for lapping film. 1µ film is like a 12k stone that never goes out of true and much cheaper. Unfortunately I don't know of a better source in Canada than just getting it from China via AliExpress / eBay which takes forever to ship, maybe you find some advice here?
www.badgerandblade.com
That way you save a bunch of money you can use on natural stones. Because an 8k edge is an okay starting point to then take it to a JNAT with slurry and the end result is far preferred by many.
Or you could get a small coticule and optionally follow it up with surgical black or translucent Arkansas stone which is a popular combination. And there you wouldn't even need the 8k, 3k can go to coti.
Or just buy some nice whisky. I really doubt you'll miss the 12k stone, by all accounts the end result from the film will be indistinguishable. And you should try an edge from your 8k refined on the chromium oxide, I bet you can get a great shave with those if you play with it a bit---if you use very little pressure a stone can act fine than it is so if you finish with several light laps you might be surprised at the results.
Take @SliceOfLife 's advice and use the diamond plates. One critical piece of equipment that has yet to be mentioned is a loupe. Magnification is key because then you can see the scratch patterns people are talking about and know for sure that eg. you've removed the last of the DMT marks with your 3k. A sharpie is also useful so you can see that you're hitting the bevel all the way along.
Were I you I'd probably lap the copper flat with the diamond plates and use it as a base for lapping film. 1µ film is like a 12k stone that never goes out of true and much cheaper. Unfortunately I don't know of a better source in Canada than just getting it from China via AliExpress / eBay which takes forever to ship, maybe you find some advice here?
Lapping film, try it.
I got some lapping film in a PIF a while ago, 4/8/16/30 equivalent grits. I use them on top of a lapped 8x3" hone, but any flat surface will do. They may not offer the sexy smooth feel of a big dollar hone, but man they are effective, and the edges off the "30k" film is not that unlike a $350...
www.badgerandblade.com
That way you save a bunch of money you can use on natural stones. Because an 8k edge is an okay starting point to then take it to a JNAT with slurry and the end result is far preferred by many.
Or you could get a small coticule and optionally follow it up with surgical black or translucent Arkansas stone which is a popular combination. And there you wouldn't even need the 8k, 3k can go to coti.
Or just buy some nice whisky. I really doubt you'll miss the 12k stone, by all accounts the end result from the film will be indistinguishable. And you should try an edge from your 8k refined on the chromium oxide, I bet you can get a great shave with those if you play with it a bit---if you use very little pressure a stone can act fine than it is so if you finish with several light laps you might be surprised at the results.
Buy a small ball peen hammer and use the side of another hammer of any type as your anvil.
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
You can use the King, or pieces of it, like a finer version of the Naniwa ‘brown biscuit’ to clean/deglaze synth hones. This piece lives in a little tub of water by my sink.
As you see from the posts above, there is an infinite number of directions you can take. And each member has a way that works for them, and everyone puts their one way forward. So maybe you should start one step at a time. You have a rusty beater coming in. So you need to clean it up and set up your workspace. No matter what direction you decide, you need to set the bevel first. Without a proper bevel, all subsequent work will get you nowhere. As doc226 says, working on a razor without a proper bevel is like putting makeup on a pig.
So get what you need to set the bevel. Setting the bevel will allow you to learn the x-stroke, half-stroke and small circles stroke. After that, you can decide how to move on. And don't forget the loupe and maybe a sharpie.
So get what you need to set the bevel. Setting the bevel will allow you to learn the x-stroke, half-stroke and small circles stroke. After that, you can decide how to move on. And don't forget the loupe and maybe a sharpie.
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- #40
I’m pretty sure I’m prepared. I think I’m going to do a real good job.
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