Glazing/ jacking/ casing?

[Friedramen]

My goal is to make a strop with a nice shiny, smooth (glassy?) and reflective surface. I've had some almost satisfsctory results on a strip of cowhide from Tandy. I made a "slicker" out of a small, rectangular piece of wood (not sure what type). I laid the strip of leather down on a table and clamped the ends down. Next, I took a rag with a mixture of water and saddle soap, and I wet the strip of leather. Then I took the wooden 'slicker' and with considerable pressure, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the strip while it dried. I repeated that process about 5 times (I'm not sure if it made much of a difference after 2 or 3). Sure enough, this took the lather from a 'velvety' finish (how it was in the store) to a glassy and fairly reflective surface. But, when actually using the strop, it feels 'bumpy' under the blade if that makes sense. It certainly doesn't feel like one smooth, flat, continuous surface like my artisan strops. How can I smooth out that bumpiness?

Another thing is, I tried this same process on a piece of horse and the results were quite different. The horse didn't glaze over nearly as well as the cow did, and the texture of the horse didn't change much either when compared to the change of texture the cow experienced. It's probably worth mentioning that the two textures are indeed different to begin with. Does that mean I shouldn't expect to ever achieve that same 'glassy' texture with the horse, or do I just need a different approach?

There's a video on YouTube that I'll attach. At the beginning, an old leather worker describes how they would 'sleek' the leather, first using wood, then steel, and lastly a literal pebble pressed up into a wooden handle. It's very interesting. Is anyone here familiar with this process? Was the automated glazing-jack a replacement for the 3 step process he describes in the vid? Have any of you tried this or something similar to give your strops that shiny look?

(relevant part ends at 2:47)

 

[Tony Miller]

It is possible that uneven pressure from your "slicker" could have caused the undultions, high and low that you are feeling. Maybe sinking a tad deeper in softer areas, not as much in more firm areas of the strip. Texture can vary depening where on the hide the strip was cut from and even which direction, head to tail or backbone to underbelly.

I have found that horsebutt in particular can, at times have these corregated undulations just as received and not much can be done to remove them and in most cases making the pieces unusable.

Don't really have any suggestions on how to fix this but have seen it happen before

 

[Slash McCoy]

I have used a similar process and my favorite cowhide strop I treated that way, but I used a bottle and I actually soaked the leather for a few days, first. As it dried I rubbed with the bottle, and once it was nearly dry I started adding neatsfoot and beeswax and I don't remember but I think one other ingredient, maybe beef tallow. The leather started out at 8oz or 9oz and ended up about 2/3 that thickness and a perfect draw, for me. I have since made a few more like that but it is too much work to do as an ongoing thing. I have never tried horse. I have some shell waiting to be made into some strops but I probably will not do the soak n rub thing. It looks fine just the way the tannery sent it to me.

 

[McBlade]

Does a slick surface make a functionally better strop or is it just a question of what kind of draw you prefer?

I've got a strop with a finish like a very fine suede. Not sure if I should try to polish it up.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Does a slick surface make a functionally better strop or is it just a question of what kind of draw you prefer?

I've got a strop with a finish like a very fine suede. Not sure if I should try to polish it up.

I would say it is about 97% personal preference. Give or take 3%. YMMV. Before you fundamentally change the nature of a strop that is working okay for you, you really ought to get a decent backup strop.

 

[LJS]

If it is that wavy feel then likely the leather but could be that is was compressed unevenly. I have this 4’ x 4” slab of polished “granite” counter that I think was a cutoff that I have used with cased leather and clamped face down sandwiched under wood. Leaves a flat mirror shiny surface but normally needs to be worked and flexed after that treatment.