Gillette Tech irritation and white head problem

[micmizer]

I have rather sensitive/fragile skin also and I discovered only this morning after 20 years of wet shaving that I can actually over-hydrate my skin. Consider that you need to strike a balance between maximum hydration of the hair and minimal hydration of the skin. I haven't tried the prep method you mentioned, I'll be sure to test that also.

Couple of other notes, a less sharp blade (Polsilver, Nacet) in a more aggressive razor (Rockwell 6S - plate 4-6) can give you an appreciably different result. I've tried a couple of Techs and own a Feather AS-D2, none held a candle to the Rockwell 6S or Timeless .68 SB. The difference in pre-edge and post-edge reliefs is quite stark and makes a considerable difference. Blade geometry and weight appear to have been the two leading factors in performance for my skin. It seems to me the aggressiveness is a function of blade exposure, where efficiency is a function of geometry. Here's a link to another forum where I compared the AS-D2 to the 6S. Lastly, three passes WTG can't be doing a better job that 2 passes WTG and XTG, surely?

I no longer get ingrown hair or bumps at all anymore with a conventional 3 pass, just working on ways to reduce irritation and avoid shaving off moles and acne scars. You may have to resign yourself to investing heavily in different gear to find the right combination. I've spent a lot of time and money looking for it in recent months and don't regret a cent.

You know what, i re-read Kyle's prep and I misinterpreted it. Ill stick to the hot towel prep only before the first pass and see how it affects the shave.

I can say after about two weeks of doing this though my skin looks and feels great. I have really dry skin on top of all this so its very easy to see how much it has improved. I also cannot help but pop the whiteheads, and those blemishes are healing rapidly compared to before. I just need to figure out how to prevent future whiteheads and I'll be golden!

Thank you for the tips on a new razor. I'll check that thread out. Originally I told my self I was not going to dive in until I was sure this was going to solve my problem but i guess its too late for that!

I am not sure what you mean by pre-edge and post-edge relief though?

edit:

Never mind it is in the article you linked

 

[micmizer]

Couple of other notes, a less sharp blade (Polsilver, Nacet) in a more aggressive razor (Rockwell 6S - plate 4-6) can give you an appreciably different result.

I have been checking this out and was thinking of getting a "adjustable" razor for awhile. The Rockwell 6s appears to be sold out almost everywhere.... Is this a new razor?

 

[paintflinger]

I'd encourage you to stick to your current setup. Going to an adjustable is a waste of money imo.

Get back to the basics and make sure that your prep and technique are solid. The hardware really doesn't matter that much when it comes to the shave provided you aren't using an extremely mild razor with dull blades.

With regards to the above comment about overhydrating, I don't really see how that could ever be a negative thing. Hydrating the skin underneath helps to prevent nicks and weepers by letting the blade ride on a more elastic surface.

 

[ItsTaz]

In general, the tiny whiteheads you are talking about result from going ATG with too much pressure, leading to ingrown hairs. Usually beard mapping will solve this along with good prep (you've noted a change with the prep) and good technique (no pressure, using the right blade angle). You've got to remember that the Tech is not the same razor as the EJ89. You might need to tweak your angle or concentrate a bit harder on not using pressure.

ATG being the culprit was my thought as well.

Also, I think a less sharp blade probably leaves a less clean cut on the whisker and this may result in an ingrown hair and/or whitehead. A sharper blade makes a cleaner cut and prevents ingrown hairs. I don't have proof of this, just my thoughts.

 

[micmizer]

ATG being the culprit was my thought as well.

Also, I think a less sharp blade probably leaves a less clean cut on the whisker and this may result in an ingrown hair and/or whitehead. A sharper blade makes a cleaner cut and prevents ingrown hairs. I don't have proof of this, just my thoughts.

I never go ATG. Until last night it was almost always WTG except occasionally XTG and only in a few spots. I did 1 pass WTG and 1 XTG + touch up last night and it was much better then the first few shaves with the Tech.

I still have a few small white heads today, but they are not in the usual places. Mostly where my hair changes directions and I likely lost focus, or got too aggressive.

So far my normal problem areas are taking the tech pretty well. If this continues to stay positive I am still in the market for a more modern "tech" if you will. Considering the Rockwell 6s or the Feather AS-D2. Just not convinced the price is worth it yet.

 

[TheKman]

With regards to the above comment about overhydrating, I don't really see how that could ever be a negative thing. Hydrating the skin underneath helps to prevent nicks and weepers by letting the blade ride on a more elastic surface.

I was lead to believe that too. Unfortunately it didn't match my experience over the last few days after realising that over-hydrating was causing considerable irritation, presumably by softening the epidermis too much and making it easier to cut. In the last couple of shaves I've experimented with a shorter shower and tepid shave water, then using Kyle's prep with no shower at all. Both proved appreciably better for my skin than a long hot shower and hot prep water, which has been the norm. This is the first winter I've used a DE and only just learned that the longer, hotter showers are making my skin more fragile and opening it up to lots more nics and irritation.

Obviously everyone's different, but I thought it helpful to add a contradictory finding, if only to bring attention to the fact that finding the right prep is important.

Also, I think a less sharp blade probably leaves a less clean cut on the whisker and this may result in an ingrown hair and/or whitehead. A sharper blade makes a cleaner cut and prevents ingrown hairs. I don't have proof of this, just my thoughts.

This would be hard to prove either way I think. My experience has has been that sharper blades give me a closer shave and a higher likelihood of bumps. Feather have given me bumps before, Polsilver have not.

 

[ItsTaz]

This would be hard to prove either way I think. My experience has has been that sharper blades give me a closer shave and a higher likelihood of bumps. Feather have given me bumps before, Polsilver have not.

No doubt all this stuff is YMMV. I got bumps early on when I started with Feather. It was the first DE blade I tried. I hated it. Came back to it after I had 6+ months under my belt and now it's one of my favorites, no more bumps or irritation.

 

[TheKman]

Agree. However, for someone less experienced I think the Feather can be very hit and miss. Something like polsilver makes for less obstacles.

Engineering adage: first make it work, then make it pretty.

 

[sfeile]

I've got whiskers like a wire brush, and skin so dry it irritates very easily.
I find a Feather to be extremely sharp, but a tad harsh the first shave. Even in a Tech. Second and third are just great, then it's time for it to go or it gets harsh again. I found the Nacet, Lord Platinum, and Personna blue blades work best for me. Not quite as sharp as a Feather, but much gentler on the skin.

And my skin is so dry it will make soaps like Prorasso, Arko, and a good handful of others completely dried out and flaky before I'm halfway done with a single pass no matter how wet I make it. And I shave right out of the shower.....
So over-hydrating isn't a problem here.

Sad part is glycerine and my skin don't get along well either. Small amounts I can do if it's in a soap or something, but no big quantities. There was a soap and AS I loved the scent of, but it had way too much glycerine in them and I couldn't use them. Also weirdly, most vegan soaps are just horrible on my face. Even SV.

So it is definitely a case of YMMV, and can be a pain finding what works and what doesn't, but once you figure it out, it's a great experience.

 

[micmizer]

I've got whiskers like a wire brush, and skin so dry it irritates very easily.
I find a Feather to be extremely sharp, but a tad harsh the first shave. Even in a Tech. Second and third are just great, then it's time for it to go or it gets harsh again. I found the Nacet, Lord Platinum, and Personna blue blades work best for me. Not quite as sharp as a Feather, but much gentler on the skin.

Thanks Steward. I also have very dry skin. Kyle's prep has seemed to help my face the most. Seems to glow these days. Nacet and Lord Platinum have been mentioned a couple times now. Ill pick up some samplers.

I unfortunately have a white head that turned into some kind of lump/bump that wont go away. Ill be seeing a dermatologist in a few days. Hopefully I can also get some insight from him on what my problem is with shaving.

I have read about the "avoid glycerine" soaps/AS from several places. The trumpers skin food I have has glycerin in it. As far as I can tell I dont see a difference if I use it or dont use it. What symptoms do you see when using too much glycerin?

 

[NurseDave]

Sorry for your struggles. You've gotten a lot of great advice and should find the combo that ends up working for you.

 

[micmizer]

Finally got in to see the Dermatologist last week. Takes much longer then I accounted for, atleast where I live. Anyways, the dermatologist quickly stated that I have folliculitis. She took a culture and I have not heard anything back so I am hopeful that means no infection.

I was prescribed to use the following twice a day for the next two weeks (until our next appointment):

Cleanser with benzoyl peroxide
Moisturizer
Prescription clindamycin topical

I have not shaved in a week and may attempt to shave in the next few days once everything clears up.

 

[Try em all]

There is definitely something wrong if it takes three WTG passes to get all the stubble, & another two XTG passes for a close shave.
The hair should be completely removed on the first WTG pass, & a XTG to follow should give at least a CCS without trouble.
Unfortunately, It's easier to diagnose a problem than to treat it.
I have no way of knowing the cause, but I suspect the angle.
Riding the cap of the razor may be helpful.
Alternatively, get a razor like the Gillette Guard, which is designed for these problems. It should give an easy WTG single pass CCS, & you can leave the shave at that, or follow it with your DE for a closer XTG pass.
DO NOT use the Guard to try to get a closer shave by going XTG or ATG. The Guard is not designed for it & you'll just irritate your skin.

BTW, you should be aware that while benzoyl peroxide is a standard treatment for acne, it can also cause skin irritation.

 

[micmizer]

There is definitely something wrong if it takes three WTG passes to get all the stubble, & another two XTG passes for a close shave.

Probably a poor choice of words in my original post saying passes. I have never done more then 3 full passes. It was mostly a lot of extra touch up.

Based on the feedback in this thread I went to a 2 pass shave with limited spot touch up. I have since improved my technique substantially however I never completely eliminate the hair in a single WTG. I think this is mostly due to my coarse beard and switching to less sharp blades.

I still may very well have angle issues. What exactly do you mean by riding the cap? Less angle right? Maybe its just me but I found I have irritation if i shave with what should be less angle where as I can play around the 30 degree angle without any observed irritation. Dosent make sense to me.

I have no doubt that most, if not all, of this was started by those initial really poor shaves when I was learning. I have however always had issues when shaving even with cartridges back when I was young.

 

[micmizer]

I missed that last comment. I have been reading up on shaving with benzoyl peroxide as I am not sure how best to incorporate that type of cleanser. I feel as though I have no irritation or drying effect that many mention but I suspect once I start shaving again this will change.

If anyone has a routine that involves BP I would love to see what your doing (I am still digging through old posts as well).

 

[NurseDave]

The hair should be completely removed on the first WTG pass, & a XTG to follow should give at least a CCS without trouble.

Don't think many would agree with this, unless you meant it in a way other than it sounds. If the hair is completely removed, what are any more passes for? And if you're ending with a CCS shave, then the hair isn't completely removed.

 

[cH3x]

Consider also the possibility of a metal allergy. People have been known to be allergic to nickel, chrome, and copper, among other metals. If you're allergic to nickel (or copper if your Tech's plating is worn) but not the chrome plating on your previous razor, that could explain things.

 

[md1234]

If you are using a 30 degree angle with a Tech, you are not using it correctly and scraping the hairs off instead of slicing them off. Place the head of the razor flat on your face and lower the handle until you start to cut hairs. That should give you the right angle i.e. riding the cap or a more shallow angle (handle up higher). I use a Tech around a 70 degree angle with respect to handle and face. Hope that helps a bit.

 

[micmizer]

If you are using a 30 degree angle with a Tech, you are not using it correctly and scraping the hairs off instead of slicing them off. Place the head of the razor flat on your face and lower the handle until you start to cut hairs. That should give you the right angle i.e. riding the cap or a more shallow angle (handle up higher). I use a Tech around a 70 degree angle with respect to handle and face. Hope that helps a bit.

If you are talking about handle angle, I am talking about blade angle. I use the same approach when finding blade angle before starting a stroke. I am definitely not scraping my face.

What i was trying to describe is if I use that approach of riding the cap (handle up higher then normal, for me) I get irritation. If I start as you describe i lower the handle just a tad. I realized at some point I was listening to music while shaving and I think this threw a wrench in my angle for awhile as I could not hear any cutting, or lack there of. I no longer do this and the audible sound is quite clear when I have a proper angle (or better angle I should say =).

I actually stopped using the gillette tech and went back to my EJ with some Lord Platinum blades and then even using feathers and I have been getting better results. Sadly my record is 5 consecutive shaves with no white heads. Hopefully once the folliculitis is gone this will all change and I can focus on technique and maybe some day a DFS.

One side observation in my learning:

One huge thing for me was to stop being so overly cautious. With my wrist locked and the right angle confidently pull the razor across the skin while maintaining angle. This is probably second nature to those who are more confident/experienced and I have heard mantic and others say it so many times while rewatching videos but it really did not sink in until I had that ah ha moment.

I mention this because I wonder how much of this quality in a close shave is angle versus speed? I get a lot of pulling with blades like Derby, Lord Platinum, Astra.

 

[ItsTaz]

I just noticed something in your routine. You don't wash your face with good quality facial soap before shaving? Some of the things that cause folliculitis could be caused by shaving on dirty skin, no? I always clean my face before shaving. Have you tried this? Apologies if you mentioned this and I missed it, have a headache today and rereading the thread is tough on me.