Gillette Tech ball end - It is a mild shaver - Need to adapt my shaving techniques?

[BrooklynSalt]

Welcome to the forum!

Feather blades most likely work the best because they're sharper. That added sharpness compensates for the lack of blade support the typical EJ/Merkur/Muhle baseplate has. This is something I've said many times. Usually it falls on deaf ears lol.

Give this thread a read: Rigidity in DE Safety Razors

Edwin Jagger DE89 baseplate and blade support points.
View attachment 935241

Muhle R41 baseplate and blade support points.
View attachment 935242

Both razors share the same basic design in regards to baseplate support of the blade. That lack of support can lead to blade flex, which in turn can lead to what you're experiencing, and worse.

Blade flex cannot happen in a razor such as a post war Gillette Tech because the baseplate fully supports the blade very nearly to the edge. There are few, if any, razors that are smoother and more comfortable than a post war Tech.

Derby Extra is in my top 3 blades. All of my razors are rigid designs but one, the Muhle R41. Guess which razor does not like Derby Extra blades...

A quick search of the forum for the word 'rigid' will return much to read. If you have issues shaving ATG, or any other direction honestly, an increase in rigidity may solve the problem.

I think you are on to something. And now I need to exchange my pre-war tech for a Post War!!!!???

 

[wimbouman]

In short, here’s my advice:

Stick with thr Tech. It’s great. Stick with one setup for your first month.

Wish I had done that ;-)

 

[Esox]

I think you are on to something. And now I need to exchange my pre-war tech for a Post War!!!!???

The Gillette pre and post war Techs, like the NEW LC and SC share similar baseplate designs.

Techs. Post war left, pre war right.

NEW SC left, LC right.

The post war Tech and the NEW SC baseplates both fully support the blade. The pre war and LC do not.

How much of a difference that will make in your shave is something only you can know, but it may be worth trying both designs. It was a night and day difference for me, and I even shimmed my LC. A single shim under the blade helped about 50%. You can read about that in my thread here: Gillette NEW LC Not Cutting It

That was my discovery of rigidity and I havent looked back since.

 

[ndt]

Agreed with everyone above. Tech is great to start with. It might also be great to continue with. In your case, it might be good to travel with or you might need to get more passes to achieve a BBS.

I eventually sold my Techs because they were not aggressive enough. You might be able to get something out of it with a sharper blade as Bob pointed out. Feather or Kai might be the one...

I've been shaving for about 9 months with a Merkur 23c razor with a WCS stainless steel handle using a Personna Med Prep blade with no issues even when using a Feather blade occasionally. Now comes the interesting part, I have very very coarse stubborn stubble which doesn't always like standing up (so the razor will cut it) no matter what the prep in that my problem areas need going over more than I'd like - between that and those existing stubble create tiny raised facial skin lumps coupled with sensitive skin makes me get plenty of weepers using either a 1961 Gillette Tech with the WCS handle I use with the Merkur 23c razor head OR my 1958 Gillette Super Speed both using a fresh Personna Med Prep blade. To me the Gillette razors are more efficient and I definitely get a cleaner shave with them but have to stop using them because my facial skin suffers by where using the Merkur there's no issues whatsoever not even one weeper. When I started shaving back in the 1970's I used the Gillette safety razors with no issues but back then my stubble wasn't coarse at all. Just confused, maybe those Gillette razors just aren't for me. I know I'm responding to an old post, but you being a mod I know you'll eventually read this. I'd appreciate it if you or anyone can relate or can point out what could be the issue if there's any other than telling me about my shaving technique which isn't the issue with me IMO. Thanks!

 

[never-stop-learning]

The Gillette pre and post war Techs, like the NEW LC and SC share similar baseplate designs.

Techs. Post war left, pre war right.
View attachment 936223

NEW SC left, LC right.
View attachment 936224

View attachment 936225

The post war Tech and the NEW SC baseplates both fully support the blade. The pre war and LC do not.

How much of a difference that will make in your shave is something only you can know, but it may be worth trying both designs. It was a night and day difference for me, and I even shimmed my LC. A single shim under the blade helped about 50%. You can read about that in my thread here: Gillette NEW LC Not Cutting It

That was my discovery of rigidity and I havent looked back since.

Interesting.

I do prefer the NEW SC over the LC but I also prefer the Canadian Pre-war (by a small margin) over everything other than the 'special' Techs (Hybrid, German #34 and Flat Bottom).

Fascinating.

 

[joebrazil]

I do two-pass shaves WTG and XTG with either a) the Feather Popular, or b) a Razorock Tech clone. Neither razor will punish you too badly if you have the wrong angle--you still need it though. I'm not too concerned that the shave is too mild; having cut myself badly at the first try with an open comb, I prefer mild to aggressive. Which blade I use makes all the difference. When I use Feather, the first shaves require a very light touch, or I get cuts all around. After that I can press a bit. After seven or eight days I need a new Feather. With Tran Li blades (if they're not rubbish) I don't need a light touch first day, and they're done after four. Dorcos and Derbys fall in between. I haven't found a blade I like so well that I can order a thousand and carry on....