WTB Gillette Super Speed Lift Arm

I was "gifted" a Birth Year (J4) Super Speed w/case, but one side of the lift arm is missing so there's nothing to hold the doors on. Other than that, the razor is in very good condition, so I'm looking for a ‘60s I-L lift arm/bar is missing the crimped-on end cap that holds the doors on. I really just need the T-bar part, but open to a broken or complete razor to buy or trade if you're looking for something in particular.

It seems that in ~1962 Gillette changed the design of the Super Speed arm/T-bar from a single piece with soldered end caps, to a single formed piece (where the doors are attached) crimped to the top of the lift arm/T-bar. I have installed a '62 lift arm and doors on it right now so it's usable, but it's a Frankenrazor as the doors on the earlier Super Speeds are taller so the '64 lower profile doors on the '62 lift arm sit lower than the T-bar. I'm not sure if Gillette changed the Super Speed mechanicals much past the re-design in '62 but date codes from I-L should be a safe bet.

 

[BradWorld]

It may be easier to just get a donor razor with the corect part than finding just the part.

 

[Lord NSIC]

I've been looking on and off for the last few months, but there seems to be more 62 and earlier Super Speeds out there than the '63 and up versions. I'm always on the lookout for razors to scavenge the part from, and I'm open to that, but I figured I'd put the word out if anyone has a "hanger queen" or miscellaneous pieces that they don't mind parting with. I'd rather not disable a working razor if I don't have to--oddly enough, I've found that you can put the T-bar and doors from pretty much any flare tip Super Speeds and they'll work, but the doors and T-bars have to match.

 

[Jorvaljr]

Not sure if this is what you are looking for. Its from a brit paperclip i believe

 

[mgweatherly]

Do you know whether a black handled Super Speed could serve your purpose? I've got one flare tip K1 that would be suited for your needs, but it is in very minty condition. From my inspection, both types appear to share the same T-bar assembly. If so, I've got a number of black handled candidates I could send your way.

In exchange, please just share how you are able to remove and reinstall the C-clip from the end of the T-bar shaft on these late Super Speeds . I've been trying to figure this out and ruined more than one tool trying to fabricate a tool to do this job.

 

[Lord NSIC]

Not sure if this is what you are looking for. Its from a brit paperclip i believe

Unfortunately the doors and T-bar would fit, but they match what I have currently, but thank you for responding.

 

[Lord NSIC]

Do you know whether a black handled Super Speed could serve your purpose? I've got one flare tip K1 that would be suited for your needs, but it is in very minty condition. From my inspection, both types appear to share the same T-bar assembly. If so, I've got a number of black handled candidates I could send your way.

In exchange, please just share how you are able to remove and reinstall the C-clip from the end of the T-bar shaft on these late Super Speeds . I've been trying to figure this out and ruined more than one tool trying to fabricate a tool to do this job.

Yes, I believe a Black Handled Super Speed Flare tip is the same design (I doubt that Gillette did much in the way of big changes after streamlining/lowering the profile of the doors in '62). I'm kicking myself because I had two Black Handled Super Speeds and kept the one in the same condition as yours and traded the user grade razor for a Blue Tip, because I would have used it for a donor.

As for removing the C-Clip, the way I've gone about it with the most success is using two small screwdrivers and or a small mechanics pick. I have a small block of wood about 2" long that I've drilled a hole just a little smaller diameter than the handle of the razor, and then cut or split the piece of wood into two pieces so that you can sandwich the razor handle between the pieces of wood and then securely clamp it all into a vise so you can work hands-free and not mar the razor handle (you can also wrap the razor handle in a piece of foam or a shop rag if you don't have a wood block handy). You can get the C-clip off without securing it in a vise, but it's just easier if you don't have to hold onto it. I usually do the next part with the doors closed so the TTO knob doesn't move and to keep the doors from getting in the way, but I don't think it matters.

I have two small screwdrivers (jewelers screwdrivers would work well, I just use a couple of small Craftsman flat bladed screwdrivers that are small enough to fit down inside the TTO knob. Once you locate the open space in the C-Clip, place the tip of the first flat bladed screwdriver into it and hold the screwdriver back against the TTO knob to keep it in place while you wedge the tip of the second screwdriver between the first screwdriver tip and the other end of the C-clip and once it's in place you should be able to slowly work the two C-clip ends apart and either:
1. be able to work the C-clip off of the end of the T-Bar (it may or may not bend slightly, but it doesn't matter one way or the other); or
2. if the C-Clip doesn't come off that way, you should be able to pry the ends of the C-Clip off/apart enough so that it causes a gap to open up at the top of the C-Clip opposite of the screwdrivers to the point that you can insert the point of a pick or, another small jewelers screwdriver or a small finishing nail (cut the end off so it's blunt as it will stay in place better than it will with the point on it) into the gap between the T-Bar and the C-clip. Once you have secured something in the gap between the C-Clip and T-Bar, you can reposition one of the other screwdrivers in the gap and work the C-Clip free and then fish it out of the TTO knob.

If you don't have two small screwdrivers, you might try working a sharp pick or a finishing nail between the top of the C-Clip opposite of the open ends and then loosening it that way, but the C-Clip lies in a small detent/depression in the T-Bar so it's hard to get a clean shot at it and it will have a tendency to spin. This approach works better if you can wedge something between the side of the TTO knob and the split end of the C-Clip to keep the C-Clip from spinning.

To put it back together, I have heard of people getting a spring clip the right size at a hardware store, but I have not tried that yet, maybe this time. Otherwise, I just take the C-Clip that came off of the razor and with the doors closed, worked the C-Clip back down into the TTO knob and around the T-Bar. To secure the C-Clip back into place around the T-Bar, trap one of the ends of the C-Clip against the T-Bar by wedging the tip of one of the screwdrivers between the side of the TTO knob and the T-Bar. While holding the C-Clip in place, use one of the other flat-bladed screwdrivers to slowly work the C-Clip "back into round" around the detent/depression in the T-Bar. Once you have it pretty much in place, you can slowly turn the TTO knob to open the doors; taking care once you feel the knob start to drag a bit/pressure/resistance to opening--when you feel, resistance: stop. When you reshaped/replaced the C-Clip, it's hard to get it back into perfect shape so it's just a little larger than normal/factory spec, so the C-clip doesn't want to fully travel back inside the TTO knob. Use your small flat-bladed screwdriver to keep the C-Clip around the T-Bar as you turn the TTO knob to the full open position; in effect guiding the Clip into the TTO knob and reshaping it. Once you are at full open, you can give it a few turns and then close the doors and make any final tweaks to the position of the C-Clip. People remark that the later model Super Speeds rattle, and I think it's just due to the looser tolerances due to the design of the C-Clip--whereas the earlier models have the screw to hold them in place, so the manufacturing tolerances are tighter and the screw eliminates any rattles.

I apologize for the book, but it takes more to describe than to do once you do it once or twice. Good luck.

 

[mgweatherly]

Amazing and super helpful description. Thank you so much. Send me a PM if you want one of my black handled Super Speeds. I've got ten of them and I'm sure at least one would be a good donor candidate.

 

[Lord NSIC]

A big thank you to @mgweatherly for supplying a lift arm from a donor Black-handled Super Speed -- it arrived yesterday, the doors reattached and the lift arm reinstalled. At first I had concerns that the diameter of the threads at the bottom were a different size, but it was an optical illusion as the donor lift arm was just a whole lot cleaner and it works great. I ran out of time to finish the job and reattach the C-clip, but it's nice finally have it back together and it looks so much slimmer than before. The height difference between a '62 and a '64 is pretty significant, and although the '62 lift arm worked on a '64, the doors always stopped just a bit short of full open (think of your car's gas gauge--the needle hitting "F" just means it can hold just a bit more (unless of course you're returning a rental car to the airport)).