Alum, on the RE website, they have in their razor archive a Gillette internal document that, IIRC, states the 1-3 settings of the 195 was supposed to mimic the SS Blue, 4-6 was the standard SS, and 7-9 was the Red Tip.
Gillette Fatboy/Slim adjustable - can they still compete with today razors?
- Thread starter IoanPop
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I have seen the vid and the internal document Chris, but the blade gaps are actually way more aggressive at setting 6 than the US Red Tip.
The 195 blade gap at setting 5 is .81mm, while the US Red Tip is .73mm. At setting 6 the 195 is .89mm, at setting 7 it's .97mm, at 8 it is 1.04mm, and at 9, a whopping 1.14mm. This is way off the scale, and compares more to the Merkur Progress settings 3-5.
I think the document shows a bell curve, with the 'ideal users' prefence. The 3-6 settings seem to be the height of the curve. The other settings may be for the minority of consumer outlyers who might want a more aggressive shave.
I suspect they originally just wanted to make the 3 in 1 settings, but got more ambitious as the design programme progressed, to give the customers a thrill and to maximise it's 'wow' factor?
I am using this B&B chart:
Double-Edged Safety Razors Ranked by Blade Gap - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/wiki/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Blade_Gap
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I believe you as I've never gotten into the weeds with these things. I'm a caveman about razors - they work well for me or they don't. I find I continue to hover around 5 for both my 195 and Slim. Neither has ever been looked at or adjusted during my ownership but I recall having a conversation with both sellers who claimed they were well regulated. As they both seem to give me about the same shave on 5, I'm guessing they're within spec.
You are right Chris. I was lucky to recently pick up a US Red Tip, and it feels spot on to setting 5. That setting also covers the English Red, which is slightly more aggressive with a gap of .81mm to the US Red of .73mm. That 4-5 setting also covers the English Rocket HD.
So the 195 is actually about 7 razors in 1, including the Merkur Progress.
Great value for $1.95 back in the day!
Thank you @Alum Ladd for the tips. I am definitely not ready to give up on the Gillette 195. It's such a cool piece of vintage hardware!
lasta
Blade Biter
Resourceful as always.
A 5 (on a slim) is about as much as I would give a Red Tip. I don't know about the gaps, but the British Rockets and Aristocrats are definitely pushing towards 6 in feel!
I kept my Slim on 7 for 17 years because it gave me a quick shave without worries about angle.
As shaving became a hobby and tastes matured, I finally dialed it down to 6. I think this is the sweet spot!
lasta
Blade Biter
BTW a Gillette adjustable can definitely compete.
The Slim was my first DE. I don't use it much anymore, because with a simple twist, it can do everything that any other razor can do.
Where's the fun in that?
The Slim was my first DE. I don't use it much anymore, because with a simple twist, it can do everything that any other razor can do.
Where's the fun in that?
@Alum Ladd is correct, I used setting 9. I'm surprised at how inefficient it was. At some point I'll give it another go on 6. But as I said part of this might be rhat I need to adjust me angle...
I've repeated this a few times here before but I'd had an EJ DE89 for about 11 years with it and while I could get a shave with it, I was unimpressed and stopped using it. Posted about that here and @Alum Ladd mentioned working with the angle a bit more which I should have thought of but didn't (brain on autopilot because most of my razors are vintage Gillettes and the EJ is different enough that I was missing the sweet spot. Now, I like it enough that I ordered one in Gold Barley. Hopefully, fooling a bit with the settings and angle will get you liking that razor. They are widely popular, back when new and still today, for a reason.
Agreed--I am definitely not giving up on the Fatboy. It's just a cool razor and many are fond of it for a reason.
So I used the Fatboy this morning, this time on #6. I used Palmolive shave cream and was careful to work the lather into the stubble. I am happy to report I got no irritation and a nice socially acceptable shave. The Fatboy's taller head profile makes it difficult to get the whiskers right under my nose, so I used the Maggard V3M for touch-up. (The V3M has a very low-profile head and clamps the blade from the corners like a Tech, but I think it has more blade exposure. I like it.)
I'm glad I tried the Fatboy today. So far it does not work quite as well for me as some of my newer razors, but definitely not bad. I'll keep practicing with it.
I'm glad I tried the Fatboy today. So far it does not work quite as well for me as some of my newer razors, but definitely not bad. I'll keep practicing with it.
If you must have an adjustable, nothing will shave better than the Gillettes. I can especially recommend the Slim or Black Beauty; the Fatboy is also a fine razor but the prices are exorbitant.
I shaved with my slim on setting 4 for years. Always gave me a good shave. Never been able to duplicate that same shave with a fatboy. I also suggest the Slim, plenty of them out there in great condition, reasonably priced. Great shavers!
I have no idea if the gaps on my old Fatboy, Slim or two Red Tips are accurate as they were purchased used and not revamped, but this certainly makes more sense to me based on what I “feel” with my face as opposed to the statement that 7-9 on a Gillette adjustable = a Red Tip. My Red Tip feels (to me) more like a 4-5 on a Gillette adjustable, no where near 7-9, and although the FB and Slim seem close, my Suoer 84 feels like it is maybe a notch or two ahead of the FB and Slim in aggressiveness on any given setting. That’s my unscientific, undocumented and unproven perception based on my “feelings” anyway….as always, YMMVI have seen the vid and the internal document Chris, but the blade gaps are actually way more aggressive at setting 6 than the US Red Tip.
The 195 blade gap at setting 5 is .81mm, while the US Red Tip is .73mm. At setting 6 the 195 is .89mm, at setting 7 it's .97mm, at 8 it is 1.04mm, and at 9, a whopping 1.14mm. This is way off the scale, and compares more to the Merkur Progress settings 3-5.
I think the document shows a bell curve, with the 'ideal users' prefence. The 3-6 settings seem to be the height of the curve. The other settings may be for the minority of consumer outlyers who might want a more aggressive shave.
I suspect they originally just wanted to make the 3 in 1 settings, but got more ambitious as the design programme progressed, to give the customers a thrill and to maximise it's 'wow' factor?
I am using this B&B chart:
Double-Edged Safety Razors Ranked by Blade Gap - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/wiki/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Blade_Gap
The Gillette Slim Adjustable is a quality razor and shaves very nicely with the blade of your choice. I am sceptical about the need for stainless steel or titanium but brass razors perform very well.
I have a a 92 year old Gillette new Deluxe in chrome and it shaves
better than any razor I've ever used and I've used quite a few
better than any razor I've ever used and I've used quite a few
In my small collection I have 2 Gillette 195 Adjustables due to the kindness of Brothers on B&B, a Gillette English Rocket from 1953 and US Redtip, a 1948 Super Speed, a good variety of Techs, English and Canadian including the excellent English FB, several Gillette New LC & SC, a couple of English OC'S from the 30's which are basically improved Old types after the patents ran out in about 1930-1, a 1912 Ever Ready, a cased Canadian Schick E3, and as modern backup a Fatip Piccolo and and EJ Kelvin.
With this lineup I am pretty sure of getting a shave for all circumstances including time between shaves and my moods, which at least compares with anything made today.
I can also re-enact any time period from the 1920's to the present day during my shaving experience. To us romantics and shaving historians that is an added bonus. Blades prior to say the early 60's can't really be replicated though, though some of the Treet carbons may give an authentic experience for some razors mentioned above.
I have noticed vintages work superb with all modern blades I've tried anyway.
Vintages of all platform types, are still highly relevant and competitive today in terms of performance.
Technique is king, obviously.
With this lineup I am pretty sure of getting a shave for all circumstances including time between shaves and my moods, which at least compares with anything made today.
I can also re-enact any time period from the 1920's to the present day during my shaving experience. To us romantics and shaving historians that is an added bonus. Blades prior to say the early 60's can't really be replicated though, though some of the Treet carbons may give an authentic experience for some razors mentioned above.
I have noticed vintages work superb with all modern blades I've tried anyway.
Vintages of all platform types, are still highly relevant and competitive today in terms of performance.
Technique is king, obviously.
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Just as an edit to the above, "I am pretty sure of getting an outstanding shave for all circumstances..."
Ran out of edit time before I could correct this obvious omission.
Happy shaves Gentlemen!
I was surprised by how well the early Super Adjustables shave as a long time Slim/Fatboy user. All are still very relevant instruments. Most people have to remember Gillette invested a lot into developing these razors and staying ahead of some pretty fierce competition. The fact they have stood the test of time is just a testament to the workmanship of the period.
Considering the cost of admission for competitive modern day equivalent it isn’t hard to see why people still use them.
Considering the cost of admission for competitive modern day equivalent it isn’t hard to see why people still use them.
Ditto on experience with Gillette Platinum blade in Gillette adjustables. Recently, I’m finding Personna plat chrome from Germany working well too. 7 seems to be my max as my shaves go south on anything higher, and 5-6 seems to be the sweet spot between aggressiveness and smoothness for me personally. I’ve collected several old Gillettes fast, but still haven’t bought a “higher end” razor yet so wondering if a ti 95oc or Blacbird OC would be too much. The Gamechanger 84 isn’t enough- if I want BBS neck it takes buffing till I’m irritated.
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