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Getting rid of Russian glue

Gillette 7 O'Clocks from Russia...ah the glue dots! At first I didn't even bother with trying to remove them, said so in a former post I think. Then I noticed in my "new style head" Bull Mastiff from Cooncat Bob that the dot was causing the blade to deform slightly....not good! Alcohol....kind of worked, but not well, scrubbing bubbles....didn't cut it. Nearly boiling water.....nope. Then I remembered the one miracle substance good for most of the problems in the world.....WD40. Yep...took that Russian crap off pretty easy...just a squirt on a Q-tip and score one for the good old USA baby!

If this has already been posted then I am truly sorry.

Tracy
 
91% isopropyl alcohol on a q-tip, with a little scrubbing, worked fine for me.

I noticed the same slight change/deformation of the blade in the razor with my Muhle R89.
 
I was only using 70% isopropyl, but it seemed to require a good bit of effort. Try one Q-tip with alcohol and one with WD40 next time and see if one works better.

Tracy
 
yeah, when they protrude to the exposed edge, it's a nuisance, but other than that the only problem I have with them is when opened the razor and the glue holds just long enough to create tension, then it becomes a projectile blade...okay, not that bad :001_tongu

I've gotten in the habit of using the blade I'm replacing to scrape off the superfluous glue spots of the new blade
 
First, I don't think that substance is glue. It doesn't appear to have any adhesive quality to it, and it remains pliable ... most likely, its a soft wax.

Second, it doesn't really bother me at all. I just mount the blade with the wax dots facing away from the handle, and it doesn't affect my shave at all.

Third, in the event it does protrude onto the active, cutting edge of the blade, I've found the best way to remove it is by corking. I keep the stopper from a bottle of Johnnie Walker Green handy in my shave-den just for this purpose. The corking technique also comes in handy for getting a used blade squeeky clean. Despite various debates, I've never found any difference (either better or worse) to corking a brand new blade.
 
You're overthinking it...well, for one, you REALLY don't want WD40 on the blade if you're going to shave with it. NOT an ideal pre-shave oil, lol.

I just take the blade I'm replacing out of the razor, put the new one with the waxy dots on a flat surface and carefully just scrape the wax off with the old blade. One pass, and done...completely dot-free, without chemicals or laborious procedures...it is safe as long as you are careful, have dry hands, and are not an idiot, lol.
 
Yea, WD-40 is definitely not something I'd use for pre-shave. Not with Pennzoil and Mobil 1 being as cheap as they are. It's in a spray can too, and we know that's verboten. :mellow:
 
yeah, when they protrude to the exposed edge, it's a nuisance, but other than that the only problem I have with them is when opened the razor and the glue holds just long enough to create tension, then it becomes a projectile blade...okay, not that bad :001_tongu

I've gotten in the habit of using the blade I'm replacing to scrape off the superfluous glue spots of the new blade

+1. That's what I do too if the glue protrudes onto the edge. Other than that, I don't worry about it.
 
I ignore the glue dots. I load the blade in my Super Adjustable with the dots facing downward, close the razor and forget about the glue. I suppose the stuff dissolves in water because it's not there anymore when I put in a new blade.
 
I dont believe it's glue either. I ran boiling water over the astra I installed in my fatboy this morning and the dots disappeared. My guess is wax.....
 
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