Getting a navy blazer made in a third world country

[cluelessdude]

My father is going to a third world country next week and I am thinking of asking him to bring me back a navy blazer. I think it's worth it since I don't have this staple in this wardrobe and a 100% wool blazer can be made for about $50 or so probably.

Even if it doesnt work out it won't be much money lost.

Anyways, I was wondering what things I should write down for the blazer. So far I have:

- 2 button
- 'slim fit'
- side vents
- notch lapels

In particular, how wide should I get the lapels? I am a slim guy, 6'0 and 155 lbs and it will be worn with my Howard Yount trousers which are on the slim side also. Also, what kind of buttons? I don't want gold buttons though.

Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

As for working out my size I am just giving measurements of my neck, waist, hips, biceps etc. and am hoping it comes back remotely fitting me. From there perhaps get it altered here to fit really well. Are there any other key measurements that I should give? I know shoulders are critical for a blazer.

 

[closer]

I think that this is a tricky proposition. I'm quite picky about the fabrics/color that I select, so if I have to rely on someone else, I would not do it. However, if you are ok with your father making the selections for you, then the next thing to worry about is size/measurements. The only way I think this can work is if you already have a sportcoat that fits you well, then send that with your father and have the tailor duplicate it. My brother has done something similar with a shirt - his wife went on an overseas trip, took a well-fitting shirt for measurements, and selected the material herself - and he was happy with the results.

Btw - I would also caution you regarding your price expectations - in my experience, the tailoring alone is about $100. Actual material cost varies based on quality, but can range from $100-$500. Greater than $200, you are looking at Italian fabrics. Greater than $300, you get into designer stuff. Under $100, you will likely see local fabrics, which might well be quite serviceable, but I think would be difficult to do for $50 total. I would wait a few weeks and look to pickup a jacket from a place like JAB on sale in the $100 range.

 

[Doc4]

Good luck ... this seems like a "high risk manoeuvre" (like they say in wrestling) but perhaps not any worse than ordering one online from one of those overseas custom tailor websites.

Anyways, I was wondering what things I should write down for the blazer. So far I have:

- 2 button
- 'slim fit'
- side vents
- notch lapels

In particular, how wide should I get the lapels? I am a slim guy, 6'0 and 155 lbs and it will be worn with my Howard Yount trousers which are on the slim side also. Also, what kind of buttons? I don't want gold buttons though.

Lapels as wide as your ties. (Widest part = widest part.) Being tall and slim, IMHO you'd probably look pretty good with thinner ties and lapels, rather than wide ones (which fit proportionately better on wider/chunkier guys.) 7cm??

Yeah, skip the gold buttons. Go with black if you are likely to wear the blazer mostly with black shoes, or natural horn or other brown buttons if you like a brown shoe look better with this. (Either can work.)

Probably best for you and your uncle to co-ordinate so you can be available on the phone if the tailor has any other questions.

 

[gegarrenton]

Seems very high risk from an effort standpoint, if not a money one. I second the suggestion to send along a coat that already fits if you have one.

 

[cluelessdude]

Thanks for the help guys. I will be giving another blazer that fits me pretty well (though the shoulders could be more narrow) plus my measurements that a tailor here took. I will go with 3 inch lapels (7.62 cm) and some sort of brown buttons.

How about pockets? I don't want a patch pocket, also want flaps on the bottom two pockets. So they are just called flap pockets? Also, I have heard people use the term unstructured. What does that mean exactly? Lastly, I have seen some lapels kind of roll where the first button is instead of the lapel laying flat. What would you call that?


Honestly I think it will cost under $50 and if it doesn't work out I can always try selling it on craigslist, I'm sure someone will take it.

 

[Commander Quan]

I had a couple suits made for me by a "tailor" in Itaewon while I was in Seoul. The guy measured me, had me pick out the fabric from samples, and then pick the style from pictures cut of magazines and catalogs. Overall I think it cost me $220 for the 2 suits and shipping since I had waited too long, and was going to be leaving before they were finished.

If you send your dad with measurements, and a picture of what you want you'll probably be alright. If you start getting overly particular with the style you may be out of luck since they are mostly made to measure, and not bespoke.

 

[Jim]

If you do go this route send some good photos of yourself, front, side, back and with arms outstretched.

 

[Doc4]

Thanks for the help guys. I will be giving another blazer that fits me pretty well (though the shoulders could be more narrow) plus my measurements that a tailor here took. I will go with 3 inch lapels (7.62 cm) and some sort of brown buttons.

How about pockets? I don't want a patch pocket, also want flaps on the bottom two pockets. So they are just called flap pockets? Also, I have heard people use the term unstructured. What does that mean exactly?

Sending a current jacket from your closet will help, so it's looking like a better plan.

The outside pockets ... don't know the term for pockets that aren't patch but as long as your uncle understands it should work out.

Unstructured means sort of what it sounds like ... not as much structure, so more casual (and usually with patch pockets, lol.) Not as "crisp" looking as a regular blazer, and more informal ... kind of trying to make the blazer more like a cardigan and less like a business suit.

Lastly, I have seen some lapels kind of roll where the first button is instead of the lapel laying flat. What would you call that?

You have entered a strange world where substance meets illusion, where fact and fiction are one and the same, and where you don't button the top button even though it's there. You think your jacket has a lapel, but there is no crease to create a lapel, you just sort of fold it over and it rolls naturally like that. The style of jacket is called "three roll two" ... because it has three buttons but naturally rolls to the second button when worn.

 

[Tim_McD]

Brass buttons = Blazer

Plain buttons = sport coat

This was brought to you by the letters O.C.D.

 

[Doc4]

It's easy to grin,
when your ship comes in,
and you've got the stock market beat ...
But the man worthwhile
is the man who can smile
when his pants are too tight in the seat!

 

[DukeGrad]

Gentlemen

I agree my friend.
There are options here, but most are outsourcing as well.

But you can do fine with HSM Hart Schaffner Marx Gold Trumpeteer, H Freeman, Hickey Freeman, Samuuelson a great Canadian maker.
On sale.
Nordstrum rack sell Hickey Freeman, canvassed for under 200-300.
It depends on what you want to spend.
Brooks Brothers, but risky at this time.
I have no idea who is doing Golden Fleece.
There other suits are made by Southwik, which has gone downhill.

Also, many moons ago Joey Banks was a cheap, first entry suit for many. And blazer

There is another Anderson blazers, or suits, search.
The pickings is here and not bad yet.
There are many other before 3rd world country, BTW a lot of high end places do 3rd world , Brooks used to, am told that their entry is Southwick, which is not the southwick from years ago.

Good luck
Jim

 

[gegarrenton]

It's easy to grin,
when your ship comes in,
and you've got the stock market beat ...
But the man worthwhile
is the man who can smile
when his pants are too tight in the seat!

You scratched my anchor!

 

[jesperw]

I wouldnt buy anything from an unknown tailor if I wasnt there to inspect the garment and do numerous fittings. It sounds like a bargain, but is it a bargain if it is just hanging in the closet?

 

[cluelessdude]

I understand the risks and they are definitely there but I will be getting the blazer November 20th. Just over a week to go....even if it doesn't work out I'm pretty sure I can sell it on Kijiji for $30 or so.

 

[ezlovan]

Good luck with the blazer. I had a full suit made for a friend based on measurements and a style alone by some Turks in a shop in Baghdad in 2010 and it ended up better than anything he could have gotten off the rack. All for about 150 bucks. hopefully yours turns out great as well.

 

[cluelessdude]

Okay got it. Pretty happy, actually very happy.



Sorry for the poor stance, bad cell phone quality, and the shirt under the coat. The shoulders fit me very well actually...I think my stance in the picture might make it look otherwise. As for the length of the coat I actually prefer it. Don't think I'd want it any longer. I know that's not classic but just my taste I guess for my body type.

Obviously will get the sleeves shortened. Anything else I should alter? Or any comments or suggestions will be appreciated. Welcome negatives and positives!

 

[Doc4]

As for the length of the coat I actually prefer it. Don't think I'd want it any longer. I know that's not classic but just my taste I guess for my body type.

Obviously will get the sleeves shortened. Anything else I should alter?

Probably one alteration to make is getting the waist taken in a bit (so you can see a bit of daylight between your elbows and sides.) Given the shorter-than-normal length, it will seem out of sorts if it is loosely cut sideways.

 

[john parker]

How does the back look? Photo?

 

[cluelessdude]

Yes Doc4, took it to the tailor today and he mentioned the waist as well. So getting the waist suppressed and also the sleeves taken in from the waist. The waist looked much, much better when he pinned it.

Can you tell me where the blazer sleeves should hit on your arm and about how much shirt sleeve cuff should be showing if I'm standing in the same position as the photo?

John, I didnt take a picture of the back but when I receive it back from the tailor I will take better pictures of front and back with my DSLR camera. The tailor did mention that ideally the blazer should be an inch longer. I guess I agree with him. The tailor in Pakistan now has my measurements and my tailor here in Canada told me today that for the future I should just tell them 1 inch shorter in sleeves, 1 inch longer and the waist a bit smaller (forgot to ask him how much exactly, but will do when I go pick it up).

Total cost to me for this blazer is $100. My parents go to Pakistan often so of course with them now having my measurements and the adjustments I can give them the cost will be even less for future coats.

 

[john parker]

Believe the blazer sleeve should reach the wrist bone, and the shirt sleeve should be about 1/2" beyond that. Remember that the length of one's arms are not always the same (mine aren't); tailor will know this but the person who makes your next jacket in Pakistan may not if you don't mention it.