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Getting a mirror finish on the blade?

I wasn't sure if this question should so in the honing forum. Somehow it didn't seem appropriate. I've got about a dozen straights I've picked up from various sources. Some in fairly good shape, some not. But they're all cleaned up as far as rust removal and hand polishing up to 2000 grit metal oxide paper. Now I want to get that nice mirror finish, which I believe you do with a Dremel tool. I have one and just got a polishing/buffing kit. Is there a good DVD or online video about this step in restoring a straight? Or does any more experienced member have any other advice before I take this next plunge? I've got a couple of so-so razors to practice on, but all I know at this point is to make sure that the direction of rotation of the polisher/buffer has to be away from the cutting edge of the blade or you can take a chunk out of the blade. Any guidance much appreciated. Thanks.
I've just ordered the Billy Blades Restoration CD. I'm pretty excited about getting started down this road. I'm guessing that I'm just a couple weeks away from bringing my first razor to shave-ready condition from some stage of neglect. Once again, a big thanks to fellow members for pointing me in the right direction.
It really just takes a lot of time and stubborness.

Tools you need are sandpaper, up to 1k grit or 2k if you feel like it. And metal polish and a cloth. And time. Power tools help.
You will need to be very careful using a dremel if it's a fixed-speed model (even if it is 'variable' it's on/off at a certain speed typically starting around 3000 rpm - too fast IMO) - I would strongly recommend a nil-18,000 (ish) rpm model with a foot control. These have infinitely variable rpm speed from nil to full throttle but the real beauty is that you can go way down to just a couple of hundred rpm if needed. Buffing soap works best at these lower speeds and produces a great finish on a prepared blade.

If using a dremel for removing rust and pitting, again take care because it's very easy to 'dig in' to the blade when trying to eradicate a pitted area, leaving a surface that will be one heck of a job to blend-in with the rest of the blade. I generally use a wire brush for loose stuff then get the worse off with either a flap wheel around 80 grit (light touch though!) or a small sandpaper 'barrel' mounted on a rubber holder.

I have found no better method for preparing a blade than doing it by hand using progressively finer grades of wet'n'dry abrasive paper (used wet), starting with around 240 grit and progressing right to 1500 grit. It's important to get the surface as smooth and uniform with each grit before moving up - most time will be spent with the coarser grades taking out the major blemishes. When you have reached 1500 grit the polish is pretty good anyway and that's the time to take a felt wheel and buffing soap to it, using a low rotational speed to avoid burning the soap.

Then stand back and admire the shine!:w00t:
If I were you, I would not use a dremel unless you can polish your teeth with it without ripping them out! Out of no where it can chip your blade!
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