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Gem Razor Models

Pic the Gem you like shaving with. Multiple choices allowed!

  • Gem lather catcher

    Votes: 44 17.5%
  • Gem Junior

    Votes: 65 25.9%
  • Gem 1912 Damaskeene

    Votes: 91 36.3%
  • Gem Mico Matic Clog proof

    Votes: 79 31.5%
  • Gem Micro Matic Bullet handle(Flying wing)

    Votes: 56 22.3%
  • Gem Micro Matic Open Comb

    Votes: 99 39.4%
  • Gem Push button

    Votes: 36 14.3%
  • Gem G-Bar

    Votes: 64 25.5%
  • Gem Feather Weight

    Votes: 43 17.1%
  • Gem Contour

    Votes: 9 3.6%

  • Total voters
    251

Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
Thanks again to @Ron R for the amazing info here. Was given my first mmoc recently and came back to this thread again for help. View attachment 1297638
Thanks for your liking of this thread, as long as we learn and enjoy these great razors we use. I really enjoy my ASR razors and they where a big part of shaving history and there still are still remnants of the network of ASR company's that are still giving us shaving enjoyment into the future.
 
I recently tried a GEM razor and they got me hooked. Now my RAD has kicked in and I have been on a buying spree. First was a Micromatic Bullet Tip, then the following: Featherweight, 1912 Junior, Micromatic Brass Open Comb, G Bar, Contour II, and finally a Micromatic Brass Clog Proof. A couple are NOS or barely used and a couple are a little rough. Enjoying my journey so far.
 

Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
I recently tried a GEM razor and they got me hooked. Now my RAD has kicked in and I have been on a buying spree. First was a Micromatic Bullet Tip, then the following: Featherweight, 1912 Junior, Micromatic Brass Open Comb, G Bar, Contour II, and finally a Micromatic Brass Clog Proof. A couple are NOS or barely used and a couple are a little rough. Enjoying my journey so far.
They can be a excellent razors when you go through a short learning curve on proper Technique, the Gem Junior bar lather catcher is a real nice tame mid range that brings back where safety razors really started is a nice addition to your collection if you come across one. Star brand lather catchers started the safety razor business in USA and the founder of Gem Cutlery( Jerry Reichard ) worked for the Kampfe brothers Star factory in Brooklyn NY making lather catchers from 1875-1898 before starting Gem Cutlery & Everready.
 

Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
Looks like a new update is needed every once in a while, I lost some interesting quick time charts on this thread.
american-safety-razor-dating-chart-gem-ever-ready-kampfe-star (2).jpg

american-safety-razor-dating-chart-gem-ever-ready-kampfe-star (3).jpg

Hope this helps us history razor keeners.
Have some great shaves!
 

Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
Many thanks for the update.
Thanks, I was looking for information and could not find the timeline chart and looked on another forum and transferred over the information here. Then a B&B notice came up stating B&B was transferring data to a new server and there would glitches. I use to update this chart every once in a while and also a index so fellows don't have to scroll all the way to the front.
 

Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
Some of the fellows @GAW9576 (Greg) & @Rosseforp (Doug) have been getting creative with Micromatic handles from damaged Micromatics and thought that was a good idea.
I had a Micromatic that was sent to me damaged from the big auction house with a damaged blade stop making the razor unsafe to use so instead of discarding it I also made a usable handle. Micromatic handles are very comfortable to hold, new length is about 2 3/4 inches long & is perfect for myself using a steep angle approach shaving with my DE razors IMO . Most ASR 1912 different model handles are slightly shorter in length or approximately same length from what I quickly measured.
I clamped (sandwiched)the handle between 2 small wooden 3/8 X 2 inches planks so not to damage the handle with the small tension bolt at bottom of handle removed in a small vise & just hacksawed the area just above the top flange and just filed it flat & smooth. Tap drilled smaller handle existing hole out to 4.2 mm in small progressions of drill sizes to reach 4.2mm.(make sure everything is fairly square and then tapped a 5mm dia X .8mm pitch thread which is a common tread for normal DE razors and some SE razors.
Then I bought some 5mm X .8 mm pitch brass machine screws about 40mm in length so I could grab the head in vice to cut to length(this will fit the #10 32TPI similar threads also in the ASR 1912 head models). The handle spindle small end I cut to a length so it would jam the bottom of the adaptor so it has some resistance when tightening or removing the Gem(ASR)1912 model razor head with out any issues.(It might sound complicated but it is not it is just hard to describe for me)
I was going to make a adaptor stud for my lather catchers but they used a Proprietary or different obsolete thread #6 24TPI machine screw thread & you need a lathe to make that male thread for this thread size now because there are no dies with this uncommon thread size that I know of.
Any ways I'm still having fun with my (ASR)Gem razors even the ones being victims of rough handling and accidents along their life time journey.
Micromatic handle salvage with adaptor 3.jpg
Micromatic handle salvage.jpg

Have some great shaves!
 
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Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
MicroMaticMonday, August 8th 2022. I have been experimenting with shimming the spline of the modern Gem blade for years with my Everready streamline razor and it mellows out that razor nicely. So this morning I used a spent regular flattened spine that I use in my ER Streamline and installed it in the MMOC button less model to mock the thicker splined blades of the 1930 era and results where it also tilts the blade enough to smooth it out a little. I would suggest trying it at least and used it with a new Gem PTFE blade also.
I'm not the only person to try this and only works best in the Micromatic 3 different models (because of the way those razors clamp the blade) with a flattened spline from a spent blade. I have not tried it in the MMCP or MMFW yet and I not sure it would benefit the MMFW(AKA, Bullet tip or MMBT) because it is the milder razor of the 3 Micromatics.

Razor : Micromatic open comb button-less- Mfg 1930-32, excellent mid>upper mid range depending on experience, well built and designed for that time era, it was the first mass produced TTO razor world wide. The button-less model was before the newer Micromatic open comb models 1932-41 that held the double edge blades and used button shims to mock the spine blades. I used a flattened spent spline in MMOC to mellow it out and performed well. Hard to believe just tilting the blade a few degrees would make a difference but it sure felt like it and performed like a nice smooth mid range razor.
Blade : Gem Personna SS PTFE(1) Very sharp with excellent longevity, smooths out nicely + predictable.
Soap : Yaqi Musketeer Rapier- nice scented soap with excellent lather qualities. Has a slight lemon look and scent works for me.
Brush : Yaqi Goblin 24mm synthetic- excellent lather generator, cloud like soft tips, nice splay scrub + great lather painter.
Pre shave : (Dedicated Cashmere synthetic)Brush wash whole face with CeraVe hand bar cleanser with a dollop of clear Aloe Vera on the cleaned beard area.
Prep : Cold water rinse after each pass of 2 + pickups. WTG + ATG + pickups.
Post shave : Yaqi Musketeer aftershave + a dollop of Neutrogena hydro boost moisturizing lotion(scentless)testing).
Results :CCS,DFS,BBS + no irritation + no weepers=:a17: Excellent shave with my MMOC buttonless with a coated Gem blade.
SOTD August 8.9 2022.jpg

I also make sure that the cap closes freely(because of the shim) before tightening so not to damage anything on the razor and with finger pressing down as as you would tighten regularly works best for this simple added procedure I used.) No big deal for checking for the few extra seconds it takes!
Micromatic button-less shim-free moving..jpg

Have a some great shaves.
 
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Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
This question was brought up on another thread Micromatic Monday on this forum about shimming the 1912 models so It got my curiosity up on this good question brought up by @LJBraaten who is just getting into ASR razors & a few other long time members also curious with their findings also about blade width differences @Tanuki .
There where some other ramblings 3 years ago that I was bringing up about my Streamline razor shimming with good results on this thread 3 yrs ago on page 20, post #384 but should of pursued that more possibly!
So another interesting discovery that might be of interest to some ASR razors 1912, ER 1914, ER 1924 & ER Streamline model razor holders if you want to smooth out the shave a little more and I kind of been doing this with not really taking any notice really & barely mentioning this on this thread. So maybe it's time to start thinking out loud like know. :001_rolle
I know other old timers where shimming there older Gem razors but thought not a lot about it because I was getting reasonable results as is with most of my Gem razors but a few like the Streamline razor puzzled me.
It is kind of interesting because ASR was going through different blade transitions when improving their blades and keeping cost reasonable & practical at the same time.
A lot of the older ASR blades had a thicker blade spine as some folks know(Newbies should know this) and when they went to the different newer models in the 1930's> ASR introduced their double edge blade & aluminum spline blade later because most of those models had the shim bumps installed on the base plates in all those models forward and a blade could be use the newer Aluminum spline blades for just basically safe handling of the blade is my conclusion.
With millions of these early models razors like the 1912 and a few years of Gem Micromatics 1930-32 models also Everready Streamline models, ASR 1914 and 1924 + some ASR Treet & Radio Brand models with out the shim bumps to raise the blade height properly with the new Aluminum splined blade is different and owners of the 1912 can enjoy those models a little more IMO if your 1912 models will take a spent aluminum spline or thinner to place it under the existing modern Gem blade (some models will take a full spline shim possibly) . Also the modern Gem blades are slightly narrower in width than some of the older thicker splined blades when a lot of these razors where manufactured. The older razors will take the new Gem Personna blades like the 1912 and all the Micromatics + most1912, ER 1914 & ER 1924 models but are pushing the tensioning limits of a good proper engineered sloping blade possibly that really does smooth out the razor IMO and other folks have been doing this no doubt for years.
ASR did not incorporate much thought for other previous owners of these older razor models that where engineered for thicker splines in that time era of thought and where encouraging folks to buy the newer generations of razors they were offering & dreaming up new models for future sales makes good business sense & already engineered to take the newest blades regardless .
By using the blade shim tucked under the existing modern Gem blade you raise the blade to approximately 8 degree slope from a un-shimmed blade of approximately 4 degrees gaining a increase of 100% tilt slope of blade that will make for a nicer shaves IMO (the way the old shave engineers wanted those razors back then to work.).

Tell tale signs your blade needs shimming(L)left razor photo shows indicator on top cap all the way forward where right razor is nicely tensioned with a shim underneath it. It is not a hard task to correct and will reward the person shaving hopefully with a smoother shave..........................Very easy to de-spline a Modern Gem blade with just a plier and wiggling the blade to free it.
(click photo to enlarge)
Comparing Gem 1912 to a Everready streamline razor blade to safety bar..jpg
Gem modern de-splined blade how to do it..jpg
Gem modern de-splined blade..jpg


Some old archived photos and new photos.
A quick evolution of ASR blades to show what happened (L)blade is modern one.....A Ever-ready 1912 model with a modified Micromatic handle shimmed with lots of room in blade tray base plate still.
Comparing spline thickness 1.jpg
Ever-ready 1912 full shim changes blade angle by 4-4.5 degrees #2.jpg


A interesting photo of the new Micromatic double edge blade to compete with the 1930's New type Gillette DE blades instead of the 3 holed old style Gillette blades, Micromatic DE blades never really caught on obviously but at the time ASR where willing to compete with Gillette & ASR did know how the Gem brand customer would take to the new blades to prevent their previous owners to switch Brands to Gillette!
Gem Double edge blades..jpg


Have some great shaves!
 
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Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
Good information as always .. I need to try & see what shimming could do for me GEMs
As you know me Gary by now if I find something that would be of interest to ASR vintage razor holders I like to bring it forward so we all can possible enjoy our shaves better and other Newbies can quickly enjoy those beautiful razors that is such a important part of shaving history. These razors are very good to shave with but we all have to understand them a little to get the best possible shaves & they can easily give any razor today a run for their money IMO. I might experiment with a Schick injector down the road also.(Another day?)
 
As you know me Gary by now if I find something that would be of interest to ASR vintage razor holders I like to bring it forward so we all can possible enjoy our shaves better and other Newbies can quickly enjoy those beautiful razors that is such a important part of shaving history. These razors are very good to shave with but we all have to understand them a little to get the best possible shaves & they can easily give any razor today a run for their money IMO. I might experiment with a Schick injector down the road also.(Another day?)
I removed the spin from a single edged hardware blade. It looks comparable to a Gem, but it may be very slightly smaller. I tried placing it in the back ( against the spring) of my two 1912s and then a single edged blade on top. It works in both, the top closes. The razors are a Squathead (travel) and a Gem Junior, both are Brooklyn made. Note that the Gem Junior has been repaired. It’s “spring” is just a piece of stiff plastic. I’ll test out one of them in a few days.
 

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This question was brought up on another thread Micromatic Monday on this forum about shimming the 1912 models so It got my curiosity up on this good question brought up by @LJBraaten who is just getting into ASR razors & a few other long time members also curious with their findings also about blade width differences @Tanuki .
There where some other ramblings 3 years ago that I was bringing up about my Streamline razor shimming with good results on this thread 3 yrs ago on page 20, post #384 but should of pursued that more possibly!
So another interesting discovery that might be of interest to some ASR razors 1912, ER 1914, ER 1924 & ER Streamline model razor holders if you want to smooth out the shave a little more and I kind of been doing this with not really taking any notice really & barely mentioning this on this thread. So maybe it's time to start thinking out loud like know. :001_rolle
I know other old timers where shimming there older Gem razors but thought not a lot about it because I was getting reasonable results as is with most of my Gem razors but a few like the Streamline razor puzzled me.
It is kind of interesting because ASR was going through different blade transitions when improving their blades and keeping cost reasonable & practical at the same time.
A lot of the older ASR blades had a thicker blade spine as some folks know(Newbies should know this) and when they went to the different newer models in the 1930's> ASR introduced their double edge blade & aluminum spline blade later because most of those models had the shim bumps installed on the base plates in all those models forward and a blade could be use the newer Aluminum spline blades for just basically safe handling of the blade is my conclusion.
With millions of these early models razors like the 1912 and a few years of Gem Micromatics 1930-32 models also Everready Streamline models, ASR 1914 and 1924 + some ASR Treet & Radio Brand models with out the shim bumps to raise the blade height properly with the new Aluminum splined blade is different and owners of the 1912 can enjoy those models a little more IMO if your 1912 models will take a spent aluminum spline or thinner to place it under the existing modern Gem blade (some models will take a full spline shim possibly) . Also the modern Gem blades are slightly narrower in width than some of the older thicker splined blades when a lot of these razors where manufactured. The older razors will take the new Gem Personna blades like the 1912 and all the Micromatics + most1912, ER 1914 & ER 1924 models but are pushing the tensioning limits of a good proper engineered sloping blade possibly that really does smooth out the razor IMO and other folks have been doing this no doubt for years.
ASR did not incorporate much thought for other previous owners of these older razor models that where engineered for thicker splines in that time era of thought and where encouraging folks to buy the newer generations of razors they were offering & dreaming up new models for future sales makes good business sense & already engineered to take the newest blades regardless .
By using the blade shim tucked under the existing modern Gem blade you raise the blade to approximately 8 degree slope from a un-shimmed blade of approximately 4 degrees gaining a increase of 100% tilt slope of blade that will make for a nicer shaves IMO (the way the old shave engineers wanted those razors back then to work.).

Tell tale signs your blade needs shimming(L)left razor photo shows indicator on top cap all the way forward where right razor is nicely tensioned with a shim underneath it. It is not a hard task to correct and will reward the person shaving hopefully with a smoother shave..........................Very easy to de-spline a Modern Gem blade with just a plier and wiggling the blade to free it.
(click photo to enlarge)
View attachment 1502044 View attachment 1502040 View attachment 1502042

Some old archived photos and new photos.
A quick evolution of ASR blades to show what happened (L)blade is modern one.....A Ever-ready 1912 model with a modified Micromatic handle shimmed with lots of room in blade tray base plate still.
View attachment 1502041 View attachment 1502049

A interesting photo of the new Micromatic double edge blade to compete with the 1930's New type Gillette DE blades instead of the 3 holed old style Gillette blades, Micromatic DE blades never really caught on obviously but at the time ASR where willing to compete with Gillette & ASR did know how the Gem brand customer would take to the new blades to prevent their previous owners to switch Brands to Gillette!
View attachment 1502064

Have some great shaves!
Fantastic post!
 

Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
While I'm talking about ASR shim bumps I did want to show users of the importance of the ASR Gem brand they thought of these bumps through their evolution of blades improvements. I believe the new modern blade with the Aluminum spine was introduced in 1950's ish with the introduction of the Feather weight model to prove this time estimation of the modern blade we use today. Gem Micromatic razors have the shim bumps placed more forward on the base plates in those models.
You will see I modified a spent Gem blade to show more clearly what I'm emphasizing that ASR had the bumps moved back further in the bottom plate to raise the blade tilt of the modern Aluminum blade to a similar height as the older obsolete steel blade splines. The blade tensioning system in these newer would damage the middle of the blade edge so this emphasizes or reinforces the reason for these shim bumps they wanted incorporated.
The Gem Micromatics were engineered differently so not to damage their new double edge blade with their rack & pinion superior clamping system of blade tensioning IMO. Micromatic engineering marvel for a razor and always puts a :001_smile on me.
The Feather weight, Push Button, Heavy Flat Top(G-bar) and Contour 1,2 models had these shim bumps moved back and the reason is to smooth the shave because these models all have similar blade gaps (I have not checked the contour blade gap) and they are the smoothest of Gem models for comfort IMO. Blade tilt must matter for smoothness and Gem did changes also to top cap on these models to smooth out the shave IMO.
These are just my simple observations and hopefully my last on this subject of shim bumps in the ASR Brand of fine razors.
I personally have used a lot of different brands of razors out there from the finest stainless steel razors to most popular affordable brands and Gem brand still shines excellence in shaving if you understand how to use them properly.
The blade thickness and blade edge refinement makes for good shaving in such a competitive shaving market of razors like it has always been for well over 100years.
Showing Blade shim bumps change of placement on the base plate.
(L) Gem Push button model.............Gem Feather Weight model..................Gem Heavy flat top model(AKA = G-Bar)
Gem shim bump placement under the new blade..jpg
Gem shim bump placement under the new blade-GBar.jpg

Have some great shaves!
 
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My MMOC has bumps, but they are farther forward than the bumps on my G Bar. And my 1912 and Junior do not have bumps.

If I’m understanding correctly adding the shim to the 1912 and Junior should give me a smoother shave using currently available blades.

Would that also apply to the MMOC?
 

Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
My MMOC has bumps, but they are farther forward than the bumps on my G Bar. And my 1912 and Junior do not have bumps.

If I’m understanding correctly adding the shim to the 1912 and Junior should give me a smoother shave using currently available blades.

Would that also apply to the MMOC?
Ted if you want to add a shim to the MMOC bump-less model it will smooth it out a little more because it does tilt the blade slightly more if you want to.
The Micromatic Bump-less model does not have the shim bumps from 1930-32 so a shim does help smooth it out.
The regular MMOC from 1932-41 has the shim bumps to mock the thicker older blades or close to that thickness.
So for curiosity I would suggest try a spline shim flattened with your pliers in your MMOC bump-less model or even the MMOC 1932-41 bumped models because it will tilt the blade slightly more (+2.5 to 3 degrees more blade tilt in the MMOC 1932-41 models) and just use it for a shave and try it & decide whether its worth it. I noticed a slight improvement in smoothness with my MMOC bump-less model with good results but that is just my opinion!
The reason it should lift it slightly more in the regular MMOC 1932-41 models is because if you add the shim + the spline from the new modern blade it will lift it slightly over the bumps but then some fellows will crank the top cap down over blade bending it slightly, no need to over tighten the blade just the normal pressure to hold the blade properly in place works best!
 
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Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
I was struggling with how a simple shim under the modern blade spline could smooth out a ASR razor slightly when the gap is already pre- determined and so I did some basic figuring on paper and took some actual real photos to see what happens when a Gem blade is tilted more and basically it is creates less blade exposure(blade feel).
The Gem blade is 9/1000 inch in thickness or 4.5/1000 of a inch to center of blade point that bumps the blade stop, with tilting the blade more it makes the bottom side of the blade flatter to base plate reducing the blade exposure to a max of 4.5 /1000 of inch in theory. So even if blade tilt reduces it 2-3/1000 of inch in blade exposure that would smooth the shave slightly to experienced person using that razor for years(like myself), a Newbie would not notice any difference because he would accept what is in the blade chamber as the best it gets without knowing some of the history of blade changes over the last 100 yrs going from wedge blades to the modern Gem blade changes.
So I just made a simple sketch photo explaining my best understanding on Gem blade tilt and why it will smooth some of the older ASR vintage razors slightly if a person desires that, I used modern Gem blades in all my ASR razors with no shim under the modern blade and they work fine with great results, but the Feather weight> models are smoother shavers and now I understand a little more why the shim bumps where moved underneath where the modern spline seats on the newer models !
Gem blade gap decreases as blade tilt increases is my conclusion by simple observation 3..jpg

Have some great shaves!
 
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